Budding Widely – Practised Method Of Propagation

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31587, 26 January 1968, Page 6

Budding Widely - Practised Method Of Propagation

Few really keen gardeners will not at some time or another have collected seed from trees and shrubs, including fruiting kinds and varieties, and propagated from them. With the majority of plants there are few problems involved and good specimens are raised. However, the seed of many subjects does not germinate readily and requires various treatments to ensure germination. Variability is the likely consequence from seed-raised plants in some instances, especially where fruiting kinds are involved and in any case they take much longer to come into bearing. However, these rootstocks can be used for grafting or, at this time of the year, for budding. Budding, which can be carried out from January until the end of February or early March, much depending on the season, is a method of propagation widely practised,

predominantly on - roses, cherries, pip and stone fruit. It can also be used on such ornamentals at cotoneasters, acers, horse and sweet chestnuts, hazels, holly and others. The seedling rootstock which is to be budded should be one to two years old, although three-year-old stocks can be used. The bark on older stocks is usually too thick to lift easily. In any case thorough watering of the stock plants is desirable, especially in hot weather, as this will facilitate easier bark lift when the time comes. Selecting Bud-wood

Bud-wood should be collected from growth formed in the current season, preferably from outer and topmost shoots. These should be about the thickness of a pencil, with well-formed growth buds. Only completely disease and pest-ftee material should be used and special care taken to avoid subjects infected with virus which is so easily per-

petuated by using infected wood when budding and grafting. Apples and roses are particularly susceptible to this disease which is indicated by yellow mottled or mosiac coloured leaves.

Immediately the bud-wood has been obtained remove all the leaves carefully to avoid pulling off the buds but leave about half an inch of leaf stalks. This can subsequently serve as a handle when inserting the buds. The wood should be retained in jars containing about one inch of water. In carrying out the procedure of budding a budding knife, specifically designed for the purpose, is an advantage. However, whatever knife is used it is most essential to have it razdr sharp and to keep it this way. Ties, of raffia or preferably rubber or plastic tape, will also be needed. There are a number of means by which the method of budding can be applied but the easiest and most general purpose one is the T-shaped form. Quick Work Essential It is usual to place the bud on the side opposite from which the prevailing winds come and to carry out the job on an overcast day, the task being accomplished with the minimum of delay to avoid the slightest drying out. In order to secure a high percentage of takes some practice will be necessary first. Proceed by cutting a Tshaped slit on the stock about six inches above ground level, making the cross-cut first and then the vertical one which should be about one and a half inches long. The cuts should be made through the bark but not into the wood and on the completion of the cuts the bark should be lifted slightly, using the spatula if employing a budding knife,

otherwise use the blade tip. This is done to make it easier to insert the bud. Cut off the bottom and top one or two buds on the bud stick and then holding the latter with the top pointing towards you make a shallow cut half an inch below the nearest bud, and with the blade held almost flat continue to slice under the bud to emerge half to three-quar-teers of an inch above it. Lift the bud by the leaf stalk and turn it over to check whether any wood is left on the back, in which case it should be carefully removed. Now slide the bud between the incision on the stock so that it fits snugly beneath the lifted bark. Cut off any protruding bud bark above the cross cut of the T-cut and without further delay firmly tape or tie the bud in place. This is necessary not only to prevent drying out but also to bring stock and bud cambiums into closest contact. Signs of Success A successful operation is indicated if the bud is still fresh or even has commenced to shoot after two to three weeks and usually the leaf stalk will fall away. Retention of this portion and brown colouring of both bud and stalk after the elapsed time is a sign of failure. No further attention is necessary, other than checking whether the ties are secure or perhaps require loosening, until spring time. Just as growth commences then the top of the stock should be cut back to within six inches of the bud and the ties loosened. The bud will then grow out and the resulting growth is usually allowed to grow unchecked during the ensuing growing season. Any shoots arising below the budded portion should be removed without delay as they emanate from the stock and if left will seriously impair development of the bud.