Sharpening Mowers Hanging Fuschias,

Press, Volume CIV, Issue 30768, 4 June 1965, Page 6

Sharpening Mowers Hanging Fuschias,

I wish to grow fuschias in a hanging basket. Can you give me some advice, such as size of basket, concern* ing this method of growing plants? T.H. (Christchurch). The best basket would be one 15 inches in diameter, this would give the plant enough room for the roots even if growth was not rapid in the first year. It should be lined with spagnum moss, bark, or some other fibrous material, the main thing being to ensure that soil cannot come through. Leaf mould should be used for the initial layer of filling and then a good com posite soil mixtufe. One or two medium-sized plants in each basket would be sufficient. After planting firm the soil down well. An occasional teaspoon of one of the proprietary plant fertiliser mixtures is advisable. Annual pruning about August,

the replenishment of lining and soil, and watering will be necessary thereafter. The basket should be hung in a position of ample light and good air circulation. Could you give me some instruction on the proper maintenance, including sharpening and setting, of a hand-propelled lawn mower and could you recommend some publication on the subject for further information?—Blunt Blade (Christchurch). Comprehensive advice on maintenance of mowers would require a separate column, so only a brief outline of setting and grinding is given here. 1 am not aware of any comprehensive literature on the subject, although this is dealt with in many of the books dealing with turf culture. Correctly adjusted the revolving spiral blades of the cylinder should just touch the edge of the sole plate when revolved. Adjustment is by tightening and slackening two screws'at either end above the sole plate. Sharpening is really a specialist job but maybe done at home by grinding. This involves painting the cylinder blades with oil and emery powder. The cylinder is revolved backwards and adjusted so that the blade just touches the sole plate. As the grinding is continued so must the cylinder be kept in contact with the sole plate. On completion of the job oil and emery powder should be wiped off the sharpened blades. We have just taken over a new house with a considerable garden area largely planted with trees and shrubs, most of which are very ragged and overgrown. There are also a number of fruit trees and some currants and raspberries. Now the problem is what should be done with them as although they do not look very nice it may be possible to bring them back into shape; also we don't like cutting down things that have taken so long to grow if you can understand our sentiments. Stumped. (Christchurch). To start with remove any diseased, dead or badly stunted specimens. Then, bearing in mind that neglect cannot be remedied in one season but will probably require two or perhaps three years of careful work, thin out some of the overcrowded branches but do not be too severe as the sudden removal of vast quantities of wood may cripple the plants so that they will take much longer to rejuvenate, or kill them. Flowering plants may be pruned after the last blooms have faded. Fruit trees may also be brought back into productivity if they are pruned according to their fruit-bearing habits. It may be best to replace the raspberry vines with new ones. However, this would depend on the slate of neglect and also the number of young canes. I had a friend who nover sprayed his apple trees with arsenate of lead to control codlin moth, but instead wrapped folded cloth round the trunk of each tree, having previously applied some compound to the cloth. He said that the codlin moth went up the trunk of the tree into the fold of the cloth and ate the compound smeared in it (presumably poison) which killed the moths before they laid their eggs. Perhaps this method of coping with codlin moth is known to you. If so, would you let me know what to use and how to apply it—A.H. (Christchurch). Several methods may be used to trap codlin moth or their larvae. Wrapping sacking or corrugated paper bands, treated with betariphthol, around the trunk early in November is one method. Success is also claimed by grease banding the trunk and lower portions of the leaders. The use of folded sacking, also wound around the trunk, is considered a satisfactory means of trapping the insects.