Paris Fashions In Foundations

Press, Volume CII, Issue 30065, 25 February 1963, Page 2

Paris Fashions In Foundations

[From a Reuter Correspondent] PARIS. The foundations of new French fashions is waistline control, a smooth hipline, and well defined bosom. Everywhere, the undercover story is reemerging with added importance as dress silhouettes emphasis the body-conscious look based on figure control. Statistics from the French corset industry reveal that sales have increased in volume by 10 per cent. In the last year. At one leading Paris store, the corset department almost doubled its turnover, proving that women are aware that new fashions are most effective on a well controlled figure.

The current best seller is the waist cincher, known as the “guepiere.” Even girls with the slimmest waistlines are buying these little corselet belts to emphasise nature’s own curves. Today, the guepiere tops the sales list of foundation garments. Next comes the high-line girdle which combines a whittled waistline with hip control. Statistics show that women with more mature figures favour the all-in-one corset. The correlation between fashion and its foundation has been emphasised by Cuban-born couturier, Mr Miguel Ferreras, who designs hi* own line of supple, feather-weight nylon foundation garments which slip on as easily as a bathing suit. Mr Ferreras believes that his new foundation garment strikes a happy medium between the old type of whalebone corset, which was constructed as he says, like a “suit of armour,” and the casual, two-way stretch elastic girdle which served only to hold up the Stockings. But now, he says, women today must be made to feel “conscious of their bodies without developing an antipathy for corsets.”

Another feature of Mr Ferreras’ all-in-one corset is the built-in brassiere intended to push up the bosum. The halfmoon cups have been studied to achieve the maximum cleavage for deep decolletes and the new, summer “opened-up” necklines. Mr Ferreras believes that “women will automatically have prettier faces if they have beautiful bosoms.” Foundation garments are no longer as plain and utilitarian as a toothbrush. The league of 200 leading French “under-fashion” designers have created garments as glamorous as evening gowns.

While outer fashions conentrate on soft feminine effects, under garments follow the same lead in a new froufrou mood. Ribbons, ruffles, laces, and embroideries recall the lingerie and trousseau styles of 19th century brides. Classic, black and white have generally been replaced by soft pastel colours, or patterned fabrics printed with floral or lace designs. Wider skirts are reviving crinolines, half slips and petticoats. Until recently, the slim, sheath skirt was leading to the extinction of slips from the lingerie wardrobe. Skirts were usually self-lined, and women disliked wearing an extra garment beneath their dresses. But this season, gored slips trimmed with every manner of frill, furbelow and flounce, are making big sales in Paris lingerie stores.

Saleswomen report that most clients prefer the half slip, in order to avoid an extra pair of shoulder straps underneath sheer blouses or evening dresses. Paris is staging an important revival of pure »ilk lingerie. While the midcentury has adopted synthetic fabrics for their practical, drip-dry qualities, higherpriced designers acknowledge a growing demand for delicate, finely worked crepe, georgette, mousseline, and crepe de chine lingerie. Cardin In Field

Pierre Cardin is one Paris dress designer who has recently turned his talents towards lingerie and under garments. Slips and nightdresses bearing the Cardin label appeared on sale last year in a medium-price range throughout the Common Market countries. The lingerie is manufactured by the firm of Montagut and comes in both nylon and other man-made fibres as well as pure silks and costly lace. Romantic nightdresses frequently bear a startling resemblance to Cardin’s dreamlike, chiffon evening gowns.

For college girls and debutantes, there are amusing new pyjamas made of stretch knitwear like helanca, trimmed with satin collars and cuffs. Some models are fashioned like tights and flit, from neck to the ankles. Cardin’s most original new slip is cut like a tunic dress, in gold lame and pale blue lace. Candide, a well known French lingerie designer, is showing a new collection of pyjamas and boudoir fashions in sheer cotton fabrics. Pyjamas have tops worked entirely in lace ruffles or shirred flounces. White batiste and lawn make knee

length toreador pant*, with eyelet embroidered ruffle* frilled round toe knees and used to edge the flared bolero fop*.