GARDEN NOTES NOVELTY FRUITS SHOULD BE BETTER RECOGNISED

Press, Volume XCII, Issue 27735, 12 August 1955, Page 9

GARDEN NOTES NOVELTY FRUITS SHOULD BE BETTER RECOGNISED

(Specially Written for "The Press.”)

T. D. LENNIE,

(By

A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.]

Friday, August 12, 1955. The care-free man may be willing to try anything once, but the careful man will wait for results before taking the plunge. That is why most gardeners are content to plant fruit trees along confirmed lines, and explains why novelty fruits are slow of acceptance. It is 20 years since the feijoa was proved in Canterbury, yet very few are now fruiting here. The same applies to the Chinese gooseberry. Both of these should be common in gardens of any size, for their fruits are beyond reproach, provided pollinising pairs of each are planted together. Citrus fruits have passed the careful stage, and are being planted quite extensively. Both in lemon and orange, several varieties in all parts of Christchurch have given good crops. Grapes are grown in all districts and, provided there are good organic soil and shelter from the south and west, the support of a high fence or shed only is needed, though I find most growers neglect to thin the bunches at midsummer and thus get inferior fruit. The Japanese wineberry and the English Worcesterberry are novelty fruits, distinctive enough, but not profitable for market purposes. The black passion is safe for frostfree areas such as the Cashmere Hills, though I have had proof of its cropping well in Christchurch itself and ar Rakaia. Planters will now be filling up thfeir spaces with established favourites. There are numerous novelties in all phases of fruits—apples, pears, plums, peach, and the like, but our present No. fruits are hard to beat for quality. The advent of the Japanese hybrid plums 50 years ago has resulted in a flood of newer sorts, well suited to New Zealand conditions. One achievement of note is the Eng-, lish introduction of dwarf apples and pears, brought about by grafting on to dwarf rooting stocks. Although crop results are limited, they will find approval where space is limited or variety is important. Two fruits of semi-tropical nature, are grown here for their ornamental foliage and bright scarlet double flowers. These are the loquat and persimmon, and both are wen worthwhile in avenues or a border. Pruning and spraying should be completed as soon as possible. Though all this month is available for the work, it is desirable to get it done while growth is dormant, thus full winter strength to be used. Begin on the stone fruits with lime sulphur. Apples are slower making a start, and for them red oil is the dominant spray. Plant all kinds of fruiting trees and bushes, allowing at least 14ft between the former and sft between the small fruits. Logan and .boysenberry require at least 9ft of wall space. Any pruning of walnut trees should be done without delay and where possible also given the lime sulphur spray. Clean up the strawberry and raspberry beds. Stir up or lightly fork over around the plants and give a dusting of manure if not done earlier in the winter. Strong growing shoots of grape vine or Chinese gooseberry should be shortened to restrain their vigour and let daylight into the budding older stems. VEGETABLE GARDEN

When the ground dries up sufficiently some of the more robust growing seeds can be sown. It is a mistake to work the soil if it is at all sticky. But if good conditions exist, cabbage and lettuce for early plants can be sown, together with early peas, long pod beans, radish, parsley, silver beet, onions, shallots, and various herbs. Cabbage and lettuce plants are even more important. All green crops should be dug in without delay, together with a good dusting of lime. Sprout early potatoes in boxes for September planting. There are many good early sorts and it is quite impossible to nominate the very best, for results depend largely on the soil and position. We should not expect record crops from a dry soil or one over shaded by trees, for in both cases strong foliage will be out of proportion to root growth. Asparagus and rhubarb beds can be laid down. In both cases plenty of deep digging and farm manure or compost is avisable. Compost can be spread over the area to a depth of two or three inches and left uptil seed sowing time. It is best to use a line for exact spacing between the rows. It looks so much better to see the crops evenly spaced in parallel rows. FLOWER GARDEN Consider the claims of herbaceous perennials as dominant features of the garden throughout the whole growing season. Where would our display be without phlox, dahlia, gladiolus, chrysanthemum, to say nothing of the many others, of which only few specimens may be used? Most border perennials propagate easily by division and August and September are a good time to do it. Indeed, where old clumps exist, they benefit by breaking up every third or fourth year. Spring bulbs are showing well. It will help to stir the soil around them and dust bone manure. Pruning of roses and hydrangeas should be pushed on. Much of the profuse growth of the latter should be cut out from the base. Terminal shoots can be reduced, no further than the plump side buds showing lower down on the stems made last season. Of course all old flower heads should be cut off, whatever other priming is done. Conifers afford a welcome variation in either garden or avenue, for their green, blue, golden, or bronze colourings, as well as their size and ultimate height Not all' are forest giants, for they can be got down to the modest rockery cypress, with for variation the pencil cypress, Cup sempervirens. Sweet peas can be sown in selected places. This is one crop revelling in a well dug and richly manured soil, one that is not liable to get over dry and hot in the summer. The sweet pea certainly respond to good treatment. Gladiolus can be planted for early flowering, say in December. They take round about three to four months to flower, according to position; therefore if is easy to maintain a succession by planting at monthly intervals until

about October. In a dry shed the corms will keep quite safely. The principal enemy of the gladiolus, apart from eelworm, is rust. This reveals itself as brown rusty spots, and patches on the corm and can be fatally serious. Badly rusted corms should be discarded ana spotted or valuable clean ones given an aretan bath before planting. Plafits developing yellow or brown foliage in the growing season should be dug up and destroyed. Some discretion should be used in planting gladiolus, with clumps of half a dozen, corms towards the back of the border and behind low-growing perennials. If a large number have to be planted, straight rows in the back garden will be best.

This month of August is important, for conditions for planting, most trees and shrubs are then good. Therefore, push on with such work. Roses, camellias, magnolias, rhododendrons, flowering brooms, hydrangeas, ceanothus, spindle, and ribbonwood are excellent shrubs to plant now. So are flower ing fruits: Primus moseri, almond blossom, apple, cherry, and hawthorn. Those popular, low-growing, scented things, boronia, ericas, Cistus, diosma, and Azalea mollis, should not be overlooked. These are typical of the plants suited to a corner or small bed.

For warm spaces, such as the angle window corners, abutilons are well suited. They can be got in many self colours ana flower over a long period —summer and autumn. Hybrid lilacs also should not be forgotten. They occupy little space and provide both colour and fragrance. Berry bearing and coloured foliage are always popular, while variegated leaved shrubs and conifers impart a contrasting finish to the shrubbery which is invaluable. The judicious use of conifers and foliage snrubs can be strongly advised as they fit in so well, with the more sober tinted class which cannot always be in flower. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENTS “Apricot,” Dyer’s Pass road. —From your description of the behaviour of the apricot tree, it is clear you have neglected the important job of spraying in the dormant season, and thus gave the brown rot full play in its cycle of life. Spray at once, using lime sulphur at one in 20, and rub or cut off mummy fruits and buds showing any signs of the infection. Repeat the spray just after petal fall at weaker strength, say two tablespoons to one gallon of water. “Reader,” Cronadun.—The branch ol peach tree shows several cankers girdling it, and they have apparently been working for several years. The malady shows plainly by the spring, the foliage being of a silvery sheen. It would appear as if the tree is doomed and should be rooted out and burned, as no remedy is possible. Prune off all these dying branches, spray with lime sulphur and watch out for silvered leaves. Better still, send me three or four branch laterals about October for further scrutiny. The cyclamen foliage shows rust spots, but no mealy bug. It is possible present growing conditions are not congenial. If it was a bought plant grown in a greenhouse, the different atmosphere of your house—hot and cold alternately—may be responsible. Also it is perhaps overwatered, which is not good for the cyclamen during the cold of winter. Keep it on a sunny window frame if possible, and give it two or three plantbid pills.