SPRING CULTIVATION OF GROUND NOW ADVISABLE

Press, Volume XC, Issue 27427, 13 August 1954, Page 8

SPRING CULTIVATION OF GROUND NOW ADVISABLE

GARDEN NOTES

[Specially Written for “The Press"]

[By

T. D. LENNIE,

A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.I

Friday, August 13, 1954. Spring work will soon be very popular and the continuous wetness of the last week has made the prospects of a good season very bright. It is essential that each winter the soil should get its weather baptism, and this having now happened, things are in shape for good results. - Where the ground has been plastered by the rain, forking over after an interval will be very necessary and this should be done whether the ground is intended for early use or not. The rain would be beneficial to green crops dug in or on land recently limed. The procedure can also be followed where compost was spread in the autumn, for it will be found that this organic matter will be fast reducing it by the decomposition of the lower strata. It does not need digging in, but raking over will break the crust and accelerate future action. Rose planting should be hastened and the pruning of established bushes seen to. Pruning should err on the severe side. Bearing in mind the fact that the best flowers are borne on the new wood to be produced from the stems of the previous season’s growths left on the plant. Most people are inclined to leniency when pruning roses, to forget that adequate spacing of branches is vital, to leave lower old stems when they should be cut out, and to make the pruning cut well above the eye instead of close above it. Attention to these details will leave the bush much reduced in size but so that spacing of the future flower stems will be symetrical. All kinds of flowering shrubs and trees can be planted. Aspect, space arid position will be determining factors but the’ choice is so wide as to overcome all difficulties. . Spring flowering sorts have a wonderful appeal in our district. This is understandable, and I am informed by Auckland and Invercargill friends that the popular favourite here, the single pink bitter almond, Armydnlus Pollardi, is seldom seen in those districts. Continue lifting and replanting border perennials, really the backbone of the flower garden. Spaces between shrubs can well be filled with them and they can then be left for two or three years without disturbance. Where there is room on fence or trellis for a climbing plant or two, they should now be put out. In addition to climbing roses many good hardy things can be mentioned. Solanum jesminoides and wistaria are two of the best. The pink Clematis moutana is a rampant easy doer. So is the beautiful sweet-scented white Mandevillia, the pink passion flower, and the blue Hardenbergia obovata, the yellow Clematis tangutica, and for variety the blue Ipousea leari. These are all quite hardy, which the bouganvillia and tacsonia can hardly claim to -be, in spite of their rich beauty. Gladiolus can be planted for early flowering. Dahlia stools can be started under glass for later division. Chrysanthemum stools should be up and. lined out to re-root. Preparations may be made for lawnsowing later in the month, by levelling and raking when the soil is dry enough. Grass cutting and lawn maintenancel

will necessitate the mower being In good trim very .soon, so that an overhaul and sharpening of all cutting tools would be well advised. VEGETABLE GARDEN Push ahead with preparing for spring. This may mean turning over lightly the winter-fallowed land in readiness for sowing, or digging in earlier-spread manure or compost. In both cases a dressing of super, at two ounces to the yard now will be a good help, but this should be sown under where the seeds will go. Early peas can be sown. Allow 2| feet between rows for staking, etc. Carrots of the early horn or chantenay type, onions, beet, parsley, radish, broad beans should be the first to be sown, with silver beet, parsnips, spinach, and cabbage to follow. For most of these 15 to 18 inches between, rows is sufficient. In particular the ground destined for parsnips and carrots should be deeply dug, or shortened roots will be the result. Lettuce and cabbage plants and shallots should be put out. Compost should not be buried deeply. It is best spread on the surface some time in advance of seed sowing, and the seeds are drilled into it. Where farm manure or compost is not available for digging in, use a garden fertiliser or superphosphate. Unless for mixing with these, stimulating compounds like sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda are not yet required. The time for their best use is later when growth is quite active. The asparagus bed will require attention. Loosen the surface with the rake to allow sun action, and where a heavy straw mulch had been put on early in the winter this is very necessary. A dusting of superphosphate would be admirable to build up the nitrogen of the manure. The rhubarb bed can be treated similarly, as this will be showing signs of growth. Artichokes should be lifted carefully and stored under cover. These tubers can easily be missed when digging, and may become a nuisance to a following crop. Plant sage, thyme and other herbs. Cut back old plants to prevent untidy clumps. FRUIT GARDEN Take every opportunity of pruning and spraying as advised last Friday. These jobs should be looked on as labours of love, for on their fulfilment largely depend the health of the trees and their ability to bear their normal crop of fruit.

■ Plant all kinds of fruiting trees and ■ bushes. All these are home indispen- ! sibles and should be planted to the limits -of the space available. Blights play an important part in crop reduction, and the secret of their control is largely in winter action. Vines in' the glasshouse should be lowered from the wires. Old loose bark should be picked off and the house and vines sprayed with lime sulphur at one in 10. The rods should be allowed to hang loose until a general growth, is made when they can be elevated to position near the glass. It will also be opportune to strengthen the vine border by forking in a good covering of sheep or cow manure.