AMATEURS MAY PRODUCE APPLE TREES FROM PIPS

Press, Volume XC, Issue 27367, 4 June 1954, Page 8

AMATEURS MAY PRODUCE APPLE TREES FROM PIPS

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.*) [By T. D. LENNIE, AJIJUJB., NJZ.J

Friday, June 4, 1954. Apples may be raised from seed pips very easily, but genetally vary somewhat from the parent fruit. There are many seedling trees of this character about, with only a very select few of high quality. Four of these come to my mind, and each is established in public favour;? Heading the list undoubtedly is Lord Wolseley, a very popular, late cooking variety. It was raised by Mr Francis Sission, of Papanui, from crossing Stone Pippin with Irish Peach and gets its hard close texture from the first-named. The oldest trees still bear well at Sawyers Arms road, and must be now nearly 100 years old. In the 1870’s, .many hundreds of trees were sold by Mr W. Wilson, whose big nursery was in the Cashel street —Bedford row block. Mr Wilson was the first Mayor, of Christchurch. Prince Bismarck was raised soon after the Lord Wolseley, but the raiser is unknown to me. It is well known both here and in England, and is included .in “Hoggs Fruit Manual” published in 1884. Mr W. J. Jenkins, of Sheffield, raised a fine autumn fruit which he called Rosabelle. This variety is still offered by nursery men, and Mr B. Penlington of Mansfield avenue, wins prizes at shows with fruit from a fine specimen in his garden. It is a handsome, well-coloured apple of the Emperor Alexander type. The fourth variety was raised in his Rugby street garden by Mr R. B. Walker, and the tree is still there. It is a Sturmer seedling more closely resembling Jonathan in colour and shape, but is a much better keeper than that variety. By way of a curiosity, Mr S. F. Webb has it grafted on to a pear tree at New Brighton road. FLOWER GARDEN

This is a good time to deal with border perennials that have grown into large clumps, for when this happens the quality of flowers is bound to deteriorate. Lifting and division of the clumps is then advisable, and iq most instances divisions by spade or knife will be in order.

Medium-sized pieces can be replanted with every confidence. This applies to such plants as Michaelmas daisy, helenium, scabiosa, perennial phlox, flag iris, montbretia, and Shasta daisy. Before replanting, it will be wise to dig in some organic manure as compost. Gladioli should all be lifted, dried, and picked over to remove outer rough skin and earth. They can be kept in boxes under cover until early spring. Put some sort of mulch covering over the stalks of cut-down dahlias as a protection against frost. Sawdust or strawy matter will do excellently. ‘ Untidy shrubs can be improved by pruning off spreading branches or topping to reduce height. A great improvement in next summer’s appearance will be the result.

This applies specially to hydrangeas, which often are allowed to develop overmuch top growth and may become a nuisance when the flower heads weigh down with the new growth. The planting of spring flowering bulbs should be hastened so as to give them every chance. This applies to anemones, ranunculi, narcissi, hyacinths, freesias, sparaxis, etc.

Plant lillies belladonnas, crinums, lily of the valley, montbretia, arums,, nerines, and other late flowering bulbs. Shrub and tree planting time has arrived, and any necessary preparations should be done. It is easy to make mistakes by overplanting or planting too closely, and the opinion of your nurseryman should be sought. He knows the ultimate height of growth, and the proper spacing for good effect. Do not hesitate to uproot a decrepit or poor shrub, for many good things are now available. Most leaves have now fallen and can with profit be lightly dug in where they fall. After all, that is about all the feeding trees and plants get in the wild state. Spare-time jobs could include the renovation of supports for climbers and trellis work. If necessary, the climbing plants can be unloosened and thmed out with good effect before replacing. VEGETABLE GARDEN This is essentially a time of preparation for spring work. All vacant spaces should be dug over and given a good coating of lime and sawdust. These .will have gone into the soil by the end of August. Do all the composting possible. I think very few gardeners work to capacity in this respect. At this time of year, there is much waste vegetation and garden and household wastes invaluable for composting with the addition of lime, sawdust and ashes from wood fires.

Giving new life to the soil is a pre-sent-day problem. It is recognised now that the soil is densely crowded with organisms, where activity is essential to plant life and health. Depriving these of organic matter will produce a sick soil. Compost and organic manures are the most potent way of producing fertility. Do not let weeds get away. Hoeing is not quite effective; the best plan is either to dig weeds in or fork them out and remove them. Thus more material is ready for the compost bin. A row of long pod beans and dwarf early peas can be sown on a warm border and plants of lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower put out for spring use. FRUIT GARDEN With the advent of winter and dropping of leaves, it will be possible to make a start with seasonal jobs of pruning and spraying. After you have tidied up the raspberry bed, gooseberry and currant bushes are next in order for attention. With the former, thinning out of crowded growths is important: then attention can be given to removing pendant branches. Long shoots should be shortened to a uniform height. Black currants fruit best on the young growths. These should be cut back to six or seven eyes. Older wood should be cut out where possible, for this is liable to attack by the deadly borer grub. In both these fruits, a spraying with red oil should be done. Planting of fruit trees®can be done and also strawberries. Do not crowd strawberries. Because covering from birds is later necessary, it would be wise to plant the strawberries so that covering will be easily done. It may be that a square bed will be best for a wire-netting cover. On the other hand, narrow guards are equally effective in covering a long row.