LONDON FASHIONS

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 27193, 10 November 1953, Page 2

LONDON FASHIONS

DESIGNERS FEATURE COTTONS LONDON, October 29. Bold steps are being taken by the cotton interests in Britain to bring their goods into the forefront of the world's high fashion market. The famous silk house of Jacqmar has produced some novel cotton fabrics which are being used exclusively by Brenner Sports, while the firm of Frederick Starke. Ltd., has linked up with Whitworth and Mitchell, of Manchester, and is using exclusive ranges of the firm's Avon cottons. Both fashion houses will be marketing these cotton models throughout the world. The Jacqmar-Brenner collection : mostly consists of models for town jwear*and the formal view of cotton is given by princess coats, which are snugly fitted with bell-shaped skirts and softly-curved crescent sleeves. A coat in white marcella has a light speck of black in the weave which 's emphasised by a black grosgrain collar and black buttons. Elegant town ensembles here are typified by a sleek sheath dress in white pique spotted with black, with a matching, lined, straight jacket. Town suits with slim skirts and soft-shouldered jackets are made in a variety of printed cottons with the accent on abstract pen-and-ink designs. The printed cotton duster coat with controlled fullness flowing from a soft shoulder-line, will be another favourite. Brenner Sports is also introducing ginghams and shirtings. These include fabrics finely striped in colour and white for beachwear, including very brief shorts with narrow turnups, and enormous patch pockets with matching skirts and tailored blouse, and jeans with a matchine blouse. Woven crinkle stripes also provide a bright flash of colour in full skirts of black and white patterned dresses. Flower or leaf designs of the type normally printed on silk are another feature. Three-dimensional roses stand out on dark grounds, and these cottons are made into wide-skirted dresses with softly folded strapless bodices, over which are worn matching boleros moulded to the figure. Velvet banding is an unusual trim on some of the silky-handling printed cottons. Whitworth and Mitchell, who market their Avon cottons under the name of Wemco. have been working for more than a year with Frederick Starke on the new Avon cottons which have just been shown in piece-good form. This collection of cotton fabrics was planned, designed, tested for washability. everglazing of various intensities, shrinkage, colour-fastness, and crease resistance. Informal and Beach Wear The main - part of this collection, christened Frederica-in-Cotton. consists of elegantly styled dav dresses which are mostly intended for beach wear but could be as easily worn for informal occasions. Others are designed for informal evening wear and summer entertaining, with beautifullymodelled little boleros to hide strapless tops when necessary. The beach wear is interesting because it is of the type to which no-one could take exception. It is of washable. wrinkle-shedding. everglazed cottons which barelj- need a touch of the iron, and consists of interchangeable items—halter tops or strapless tops, briefs, shorts bloomers or jeans, well-fitting skirts, and. as a rule, tiny ackets which complete the outfit. The Frederica sun-into-evening dresses include several in the new Wemco paperweight ice cottons frosted with a delicate tracery of sold which is guaranteed to withstand every washable effort to remove it. All these models are in the half-tone colours which promise to be so popular with delicate but decided prints consisting to a great j extent of different aspects of “pen and ink scrawls” and “doodles.” These dresses are notable for the moulded dianhrasm line and the focus on the bustline which is achieved by ■ inner bodices and iackets fastening immediately below the bosom. Crescentsleeves stress the stand-away. necklines, and. in order to help the fit.; the straps on sun dresses are movable i —three spaced buttonholes at the back i are provided. In addition the housecoats have a! good wrapover to give the same snuglyfitting line and the fullness is pushed to the back of the skirt.