GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 27148, 18 September 1953, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) (By T. D. LKNNIK, N.ZJ Friday, September 18, 1953. FLOWER GARDEN It is surprising how quickly many perennial plants will build themselves into spreading clumps and reduce the quality of their blooms, both in the size of the flowers and in the length of the stems. When this stage is reached, it is time to do something about it. Perennials concerned include dahlias, michaelmas daisy, chrysanthemums, paeonies,. campanulas, phlox and delphiniums. All these can be separated into divisions by spade or knife, and these replanted divisions will give good results if helped by the addition of compost or manure. Dahlias and paeonies can be divided according to the growth eyes showing.. With most of the others, spade division will be easy, and results in plenty of good blossoms from January on to early winter. Good dumps of carnations should be treated differently by thinning out some of the weaker shoots, and later disbudding to get one good flower to each stem.

Sweet peas with contribute fittingly to the summer display. Those sown in autumn will be flowering by November, and be followed in January and February by seeds sown now. So that where a good situation is available, sowipg of seed is advisable. Roses can be given a final pruning qverhaul and, new plants shortened to promising eyes which will be visible on the stems. Gladiolus should be planted. They are among the most attractive of summer-flowering plants, and are both diverse and striking in colouring. Few summer plants are so accommodating nr respond so brightly to gpod cultivation.

Make the soil fine in readiness for putting out bedding plants. There is no hurry about this job, and preparations count a lot towards later success.

Iceland poppy, polyanthus, pansy, ten weeks’ stock, and aubretia, are among the first for planting out. Anemones and ranunculus are also reliable. The ever popular . petunia, schizanthus, myosotis or forget-me-not, antirrhinum, wallflower, and sweet william can also contribute quite a lot to the display s This is also flower-sowing time. Quite apart from the' quick results from annuals such as godetia, candytuft, mignonette, cornflower, nigella, clarkia, and linaria, it is opportune to sow a fine selection of perennials such as pansy, Russell Lupins, hollyhock, carnation, primula, cineraria, delphinium, and polyanthus for quantity and quality planting about March. Where a greenhouse is available, it is both a joy and a profit to raise plenty of choice young plants for the purpose. Planting of flowering shrubs and trees is still possible, especially the evergreen section— rhododendron, camellia, azalea, flowering brooms, prostranthera, and many species of conifer. These latter are excellent either as specimen trees on the lawn or planted to relieve the bare stems of deciduous shrubs. Lawns can be sown or old ones top dressed. Hormone powders are now available to control weeds on the lawn or on gravel paths. Science has done a good job in this direction. What is the most. frequentlyoccurring colour scheme of flowersT Not white—no, yellow is, for that is contained in almost every blossom. This thought was inspired by the lovely nrofusion of Forsythia plants now making such a glorious show in the city. I would say it just about tops the list of spring-flowering c shrubs for elegance and charm, and ranks hi?h also as a good lasting quality cut flower, VEGETABLE GARDEN Sow all the required vegetables. When the first early peas are through the ground, sow a second early, such as Onward, Greenfeast or Blue Bantam.

First early varieties of peas should be fit for picking in about 90 days while the second earlies mentioned will take two or three weeks longer; therefore too long an interval between sowing is not wise—rather the reverse. The second sowing should also be larger in length of row to give plenty of pods when most needed.

Plant early potatoes—Epicure, King Edward, Black Kidney, or Arran Banner. If the seed was sprouted and hey push through early, danger from 'rost can be averted by earthing over *.h° shoots as they appear. Most kinds of root crops can be sown. They include onion, carrot, beet, parsnip, turnip, radish, and salsify. Good results cannot be got without fertilising the soil either with good compost or organic manures. The latter should be spread in a drill deeper by two or three inches than the seed to be sown, as it will then be in position for the young roots to reach as they develop. Leafage vegetables should also be sown in plenty. This applies to silver or chard beet, summer and perpetual spinach, mustard, cress, cabbage, and endive. Lettuce is a summer necessity and varieties to sow now include Webb’s Wonderful. Neapolitan, Imperial 615, Great Lakes and the brown-tinted Mignonette. Cos lettuce, when later blanched by tying in the upright leaves has quite a delicious flovour. Where possible plant out a few lettuce and early cabbage. Sweet corn can be sown. This should not be sown in a wind-swept position. Sowing in a broad row is best, for staking and tying can then be economically arranged. Tomatoes can be planted under glass or cloches, and in preparation for outside planting later, dig over and manure the site chosen for them.

Small birds may be troublesome in destroying pea tops and turnips as they germinate. Protection will be effected by stringing black cotton along the rows on short sticks and redleading the seeds. Salad greens and herds should be provided. Chives, sage, thyme, mint, mustard, cress, and endive all should find a place in the garden. It will help to top dress the asparagus bed with salt or nitrate of soda and fish manure. Apply dry at 2 to 4oz to the square yard and water it in. FRUIT GARDEN

Continue the spring spraying programme, but not when the trees arc in blossom.

Apply reduced strength lime sulphur at three tablespoonfuls to the gallon of water, or Bordeaux for stone fruits. Chinese gooseberry, loganberries and boysenberries should be tied up to supports and ends reduced. Fruit trees can still be planted, but this work should not be delayed. Make a point of pruning back the young trees to get the required shape. Give the trees good drainage and plenty of compost or farm manure when planting. Clean strawy manure or sawdust spread around the strawberry plants will be advisable to keep the flower clusters off the wet earth.