NYLON FABRICS

Press, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 26617, 31 December 1951, Page 2

NYLON FABRICS

ADVICE ON SEWING Nylon garments should be cut ex- 1 actly to specified size, says the “New Zealand Draper and Allied Retailer.” There is no need to allow extra material for shrinkage, as nylon does not shrink, and a too-large garment will never wash down to fit you. If the garment is made too small, it will certainly stretch to fit, as nylon is elastic. But it has a memory, and wil return to its original shape, causing uncomfortable binding. Seam puckering, though not peculiar to nylon, is a fairly common fault, which ruins the appearance of a garment. This difficulty is experienced mainly with nylon taffetas and poults, sometimes with satins; but there is rarely any such trouble with sheers. There are various reasons for seam puckering, depending on the construction of the particular nylon fabric being handled. Choose a pattern with seams cut on the bias, for preference. The yarns in the fabric are drawn together by the tightening of the stitch during sewing, and distortion is less when the stitching is on the bias. This is a recommendation, not an essential. It would be both impractical and uneconomical to insist that all garments be bias seamed. There should be little difficulty in sewing on the straight, if enough care is taken over machihe adjustment and machining. Run trial seams on samples of the fabric before starting to sew. Nylon garments need generous seams. As nylon is a smooth yarn, a raw-edged seam tends to fray. It has been found advisable to use French or felled seams, if the design of the garment permits. Plain seams should be finished by overcasting or pinking, overcasting being the more satisfactory method. A seam allowance of at least fin is recommended. A skimped seam destroys the advantages of nylon’s durability. Machining An important point to remember in avoiding seam puckering is to adjust the tension of the machine so that the actual tension on the thread is the minimum possible that will allow good stitching. The tension of both the needle and the bobbin thread should be loosened. Again, a few trial seams should be run until the tension is suitably adjusted. Use the finest needle possible; an unnecessarily large needle may distort the fabric and cause it to pucker. No need to use a special kind—just make sure it is fine and sharp. Watch that it does not develop a hook point. Do not stretch the fabric while guiding it through the machine. It should, be held firmly under control, not pulled tight. Nylon threads give extra seam strength and durability, and have the same easy-washing, quick-drying properties as the nylon fabrics. Now that they are available in a wide colour range, it is foolish not to use them. The thread should be controlled on the machine by guides, but it is important that these and other places on the sewing machine over which the thread passes should be free from nicks. Smooth, polished surfaces are essential for all parts of the machine which may touch either fabric or thread; rough edges may snag them. Nylon garments should be finished with nylon trimmings for the most satisfactory results in both appearance and wear. Ribbons, laces and edgings are now available in nylon. Attractive and practical trimmings can be made by combining two different types of nylon fabric. When pressing, the iron should be cool. If your iron has a temperature control, set it at the lowest point. Test first on a scrap of material. Steam irons may be used, also set at a low temperature. Seams and hems can be pressed under a damp cloth.