BRITISH EVEREST EXPEDITION

Press, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 26516, 3 September 1951, Page 3

BRITISH EVEREST EXPEDITION

QUALIFICATIONS OF N.Z. MEMBERS

“ GOOD, EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS ” (New Zeaiana Press Association) WELLINGTON. September 2. “They are experienced; they are the right age; they have shown they are good climbers; they seem to be a good bet.’’ This is how Lieutenant-Colonel J. B. Harrison, of the Army Department, Wellington, appraises the two New Zealanders who have been invited to join the British Everest expedition. 'They are Mr H. E. Ridditord and Mr E. P. Hillary, members of the New Zealand expedition to the Garhwal Himalayas. Colonel Harrison is qualified to talk about Himalayan climbing, for it was on an attempt on the 25,600-foot Masherbrum that he lost his fingers and toes through frostbite. As an officer stationed in India, he climbed many peaks in the Eastern and Western Himalayas between IS3O and 1938. The two New Zealanders in the British expedition will probably get nowhere near ’ the top of Mount Everest. “I think it would be very dangerous even to call the expedition an attempt on Everest," said Colonel Harrison. “This is'‘the first attempt on Everest from the unknown southern side, and it is the first time the mountain has been attacked in the autumn months.

“Previous expeditions have always attempted the mountain from the northern or Tibetan side, as until now access has been refused through Nepal on the southern side. However, now the political position is reversed. Communist armies occupy Tibet, and Nepal has opened her borders to the expedition. “Information on the mountain’s little-known southern side is limited almost entirely to photographs. The expedition will be more of a reconnaissance to find a possible route.

“It will not necessarily be a different climb altogether. I think the final attempt, if it comes off this year, will follow the route of previous expeditions from the north col. The different snow conditions in the autumn might make it possible to succeed where othera have failed on the final dash to the summit.” The exoedition will have to be in its base camp by the end of September. The results of its efforts will be known by the end of November.