GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXVI, Issue 26122, 26 May 1950, Page 2

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for "The Press.") (By T. D. LENNIE, N.Z.] Friday, May 26, 1950. FLOWER GARDEN If there is one thing of prime importance at present it is that of doing up the borders before the winter rains set in. At present the, ground is reasonably dry and weed killing by spade or hand pulling can be comfortably done. Weeds make quick growth even in the winter, and if the borders are not tidied up now they will be in a mess before spring. First cut off all finished top growths and the way will be clear to dig over between the clumps. Where these clumps afe overlarge, spade division can remove the older portion with good results. With spreading clumps, such as ox-eye daisy, michaelmas and perennial phlox, it is best to remove the older central growths for the outer shoots will naturally give best results. Push on with bulb planting, especially narcissus, tulips, and hyacinths. These bulbs should be planted four to six inches deep. In dry, hot soils shallower planting is not advisable, for the bulbs resent being baked, in the dormant season. Tulips especially fall a victim to fire disease under these conditions. Lilies can be planted. While it is fascinating to possess all the possible varieties, make a start with reliable sorts such as regale, pardalinum, Davidi, Henryi, speciosums, pink and white, longiflorum, and the tigrinum single and double. Auraturn is perhaps the best of all but needs a shaded cool position. Mark the positions of all bulbs with labels carrying the name. Violets can be planted. Root divisions will be effective, or the young rooted runners. Mulch the lily of the valley bed with two inches of good compost or a good sprinkljng of blood and bone manure. Most herbaceous perennials can be dealt with now, if rearrangement is advisable. It may be that some tall growers are too near the front or vice versa. Grading plants with an eye to their flowering height will greatly improve appearances. Gladiolus corms should now be all lifted and stored. They do not improve by being left in the ground during winter. . Frosts having finished off the dahlias, tops can be cut off above ground and composted. If shelter is available, lift the roots and store under cover, making sure name labels are tied to the stalks. The roots will be safe if stored under a hedge covered with soil, bagging, or deep straw. Prepare for planting roses and shrubs by digging in good manure or compost. Carnations can be planted. The layered ones will now have rooted, and can be taken off for the purpose. Carnations like lime, and this can be freely added to the soil. ERICAS It is time to think about the planting of these distinctive plants, and they arc “must haves” for most gardens. Variety is bewildering with many not hardy enough for all positions, but enough of them will thrive in the open here to make their inclusion advisable in all Canterbury gardens. First choice will likely be Erica melanthera, growing 4ft high, with a profusion of rosy pink small bells in early spring and flowering over a long period. Another tall growing species is E. pyramidalis (Cape Heath). This has white minute bells with similar black anthers and also is early flowering. Both arc excellent for planting in the background. At the other extreme is Erica darleyense, growing not more than a foot high, and excellent for the rockery or corners of the flower beds. It is winter flowering, colour pale pink, and of very compact habit. Erica vulgaris (Scotch heather), in white or lilac pink, are naturally popular. They flower in mid-summer, sprawl about a bit. but are very hardy and colourful. Erica cruenta—long scarlet tubes, is one of the best of the other hardy sorts. Erica wilinoreana, bearing dense sprays of pink and while tubes, parkeri, pale pink clusters, and aufumnalis, with masses of deep pink bells in winter, may be mentioned as representative of the hardy heaths worth growing. VEGETABLE GARDEN Some cleaning up here can be done. Tomato remains can be scrapped and the stakes put away for the winter. All potatoes should now be dug, graded and stored under cover. Of course only first quality tubers should be reserved lor keeping. Autumn sown onions should be hand weeded, and the soil between rows kept open by hoeing. Then sprinkle two inches of sawdust along the rows to prevent the soil lilting. Early cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower can be planted, and a row of broad beans sown. The compost bins should quickly fill with garden refuse. Add a good sprinkling of lime to this matter then a soil covering and some cow manure or blood and bone to activate the heap. Grass clippings are good, put on in thin layers, and can be hidden from flies by an inch covering of sawdust and lime. FRUIT GARDEN Pruning can be begun on fruit trees when leaves have fallen. Gooseberries' and currants should be taken first. With the former, shaping is important, which means pruning to give each branch room to operate. All pendart, and low growths should be removed with a good deal of the small shoots which clutter up the bush. Black currants make long shoots each season. These should be cut back to three or four eyes and as much old wood as possible removed. Red and white currants fruit on the old wood, therefore with these it is necessary to leave the best of the old branches and shorten new ones as well. Apple and pear tre£s can be pruned, but stone fruits are best left till the worst of winter is over. Now that all fruits are stored and the trees are bare, go over under the branches digging in fallen fruits and leaves. In this way much disease will be prevented. Tliis is a good time to plant strawberries. Under normal conditions a bed should last several years, if well fed and prevented from overcrowding by removing al) runner plants. These can be used to plant a supplementary bed to take the place of the old one in two years’ time, as little can be expected from young plants the first season.