GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXV, Issue 25934, 14 October 1949, Page 2

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for "The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE, A.H.R.1.H., N.Z.J VEGETABLE GARDEN No time should now be lost in getting in the main lines of most vegetable crops, for the element of danger for tender (hint’s has about passed, and risks can be taken. French beans and scarlet runners are “musts'' for most households. Both need well drained soils, rich in manure or compost. Failing either, place a good layer of superphosphate, 4oz to the yard row. three inches under the seeds, and well mixed into the soil. The dwarf beans should be sown in a double row. seeds three inches apart. Runners need more room and a single row of seeds spaced six inches apart, would be about right. The runner bean is perennial, forming root tubers which in certain positions start again and do not need to be resown, but in most cases do not survive the winter frosts. The spinach family contributes a lot to the home garden supply. The quickest to come in is the round leaved or summer, which must, be used when young, as it soon goes to seed. If. however, the perpetual variety or New Zealand type is also sown, the supply will be extended through winter. Silver beet is another I kitchen favourite, and grows more green leal matter than any other vegetable, and is always ready for a quick meal. There arc two types—one the ordinary yellowtinted Lucullus, and the broad leaved white or Swiss Chard. Sweet corn is an‘other crop esteemed by many. Although several varieties are listed overseas, here Golden Bantam is the favoured type. Carrot growing presents difficulties to many, and this applies particularly where sown in confined gardens liable to dry out in summer. As for peas, a naturally moist rich soil will give good results. To check carrot fly, start soon after germination with a smear of hortnap along both sides of the row and spray nicotine as soon as little white specks show on the seedlings. Sow a row of lettuce thinly for thinning out later, for they and the other salads—radish, onion, mustard, and cress —will soon be in demand. Peas can be sown lor general crop, to mature January and February. Kelvedon Wonder (Massey), Onward. Greenfeast are reliable croppers of medium height. Giant Stride (sft) produces immense pods, much sought for by the show exhibitor. Alain crops of potatoes can be planted, and it would seem good policy to plant largely. Seeds of winter greens can now be sown. This range includes celery, celeriac. leeks, savoy, brussels sprouts' cauliflower. broccoli, kohlrabi. drumhead cabbage. and Scotch kale. With the asparagus bed now yielding, it is worth while doing something to prolong the output. That can be done by restoring nutrients absorbed by the roots and as quick assimilation is imperative, readily dissolved materials are advisable. Here again liquid manuring fills the bill, and nitrate of soda or fish manure provide the necessary elements as well as anything. Being a seaside plant, the asparaaus responds to a dressing of coarse salt, four ounces to the square yard. Cut. all thin shoots. It is not wise to allow these to develop early in the season. Rhubarb is another spring crop that can be helped by manuring and watering it necessary The roots are gross feeders ano will not go to seed if looked after. V nc T a x socd s,c,n sh ows. cut it out and decide to shift the roots next winter. There is a general impression that it is YM-ong to use anything but model shaped tubers when planting out potatoes. While selection according to this rule is to be commended, it does not always work out. Ihe tuber is the storehouse of food on which the plant develops, until supplied through its own roots, and a medium-sized tuber suffices. But can shape after all make or mar? As the Scotchman says, “I hac ma doots.” I remember a test carried out by a local firm some 5 cais ago. which was something of f..Z hoek _, b S cause the best results came fiom good but misshapen tubers. FLOWER GARDEN Much good work can be done in filling up the borders with bedding plants. It is pci haps superfluous to mention any because we have reached the stage ‘when maximum choice can be made. The main p°mt of interest is to choose varieties to suit the position—tall growers at the back ot vide oorders, with the more moderate in front or in mass on grass lawns. Very tine enects are got by planting in this V ‘i a , y ’ F elun ais. verbenas, Iceland poppy, phlox Drummondii. and geranium being v.cll suited to this form of display. The old favourites still bulk largely in these plantings. Beauty stocks and‘ antirrhinums have been much improved in colour ana habit, and their charm is recognised, balvia bonfire makes a vivid splash in late summer, and with asters and mango!ds can now be planted. Gladioli should be planted soon. Many other herbaceous perennials may also be got in soon. Carnations, perennial phlox, delphinium, pyrethrum, lupins, geum, hollyhock, shrubby calceolaria, and E ai ’‘l tree daisie s include things showy on the border, and good for cutting. It is a pity these daisies will not survive our winters, as they are such good lasting flowers and so adaptable. Before planting stocks, asters, and zinnias it would be as well to sterilise the sou about a week before. Jeyes fluid. Restar, or formalin, one teaspoon to a galin i' vate L well saturating the soil, should be effective in checking that tmublesome wilting disease, which arisen from soil germs. Chrysanthemums can be planted or potted up for flowering under cover. For the latter purpose four or five inch pots are large enough to begin with. Plunge the pots in soil or sawdust to induce a strong, hardy start, giving good soil of course. When planting out of doors, choose a warm, sheltered spot and dig m a good leaven of compost, or old manure. Old clumps should be thinned out to evade crowded stems. It will improve the output to have fewer stems competing for perhaps a limited soil nutrient. Flower seeds of all kinds can be sown freely. Out of doors, asters and zinnias thrive happily without transplanting and seldom take wilt disease if not root broken. FRUIT GARDEN The only spraying permissible now is on stone fruit trees. It may be that last month’s disastrous frost has taken a heavy toll of the setting fruit, but the onus of fighting fungoid pests still exists and this calls for a lime sulphur or Bordeaux spray at spring strengths. For apples and pears, wait until the end of the month, so as not to interfere with pollination of flower*.