GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXIV, Issue 25549, 17 July 1948, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for “The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE. A.HJ1.1.H., N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN There is an ever present desire to imBrove8 rove appearances around the house, and lere are means by which that desire may be met. It is not enough to plant new or better things if ground conditions are not improved for the existing occupants. The roots of plants and trees are continually extending and probing for sustenance, and the length to which they will extend is quite remarkable and often unsuspected. In nature it is a case of the survival of the fittest, with plenty for those left. In the cultivated garden this law is upset, and nature calls for much assistance to ensure success for the grower. He has to fight weeds and disease, and success often depends on his endeavours in these respects. Winter is the season of dormant energy in most plants, which means that such apparent injuries as lifting, planting, pruning ,and training can then be done with impunity and consequent benefit to the subject. In addition such everyday jobs as digging and providing a manurial nutrient are not. always seen to, with the result of plant deterioration. That being so, much good work can be done on the borders in preparation for the summer show. Where animal or poultry manure is available, this should be freely used to develop plant growth, and in its absence the less valuable superphosphate or chemical fertilisers. Even if neither of these alternatives is taken, digging or forking over to aereate the soil and destroy weeds should be done. Pruning of shrubs should be done. This may be necessary to improve or modify growth, as often they may get unruly or mishapen. Hydrangeas should be pruned to remove old limbs or crowded stems. The terminal buds carrying next season’s flower heads will be clearly visible and most of these should be left. Other stems should be cut off just above side buds formed lower down.

Chrysanthemum stocks can be broken up, planting out as cuttings selected young centre shoots, which will make good plants to put out in September or October. Rose planting should be done now, but a solid preparation will be necessary as outlined above. The bush or dwarf rose is deservedly popular for all purposes, with the polyanthus or bunch-flowered overlooked. The latter, though of a more straggling nature, excels in giving a longer flowering period, but is not so useful for decorative purposes. Herbaceous perennials can be planted. This important class includes such as carnations, perennial phlox, delphinium, rudbeckia, helenium, perennial poppy, kniphofia, and doronicum. Garden paths should have attention by poisoning surface weeds, repairing stone edgings, while trejlis work and climber supports may be ijj need of repair. Now is a suitable time to attend to these matters. Birds sometimes play havoc with young shoots of carnations and polyanthus. About the best check is to place a few sticks around the plants, festooning with black cotton—sparrows will keep away from the threads. VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN Seed sowing time is within sight and should not be anticipated, as the present fine spell is abnormal. Routine work should be well in hand for one thing. Green crops may now be dug in adding a generous dressing of lime. Early potatoes should be boxed for sprouting. In some frost free areas on the Peninsula’ it will even be possible to plant such as Epicure or Jersey Bennes. Broad beans, early peas, lettuce, cabbage, silver beet, can be sown, and shallots planted. If idle ground has not been winter dug, do so at once, leaving it in a lumpy condition. Lime can with advantage be spread around the vegetable patch and under fruit trees. The asparagus bed should be stirred up, weeded, then covered with a three-inch layer of stack bottom, strawy manure or old cow dung. Pruning fruit trees should be done. This work Jias no terrors for the practised gardener, and is not difficult if common sense and thought is applied. It must be obvious that a crowded tree cannot produce of its best. The aim of pruning, by removing and reducing, ensures a place in the sun for all parts. The peach and nectarine bear mostly on the young wood of the previous year and pruning out dead shoots should have first attention, so as to raise healthy laterals on the main stems. These should be shortened back to a strong upward lateral. The best fruits will be borne on the mid-height branches, so that excessive top growth should be controlled. With all fruiting trees, access of life-giving sunlight to all parts is ensured by keeping as far as possible an open centre habit. Spraying usually follows pruning, although really it should have precedence, as thereby even the pruned pieces are inoculated, but this is perhaps not so important if all droppings are gathered up and burned. ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT Iron Dust, Fendalton.—(l) Winter savoys and brussels sprouts not hearting is most likely due to late planting and the dry summer following. These plants require a lot of root mcisturt. It is difficult to produce sprouts fully unless planted before New Year, though savoys are more tolerant. Your experience is a common one this season. (2) Yes, the Succession cabbage will respond well to successive plantings, though it is more fitted for summer than winter use as it stands dryness well. (3) The iron dust from the old tank can be well used—on the compost and around hydrangea plants. Use sparingly in layers through the compost, but very liberally for the plants. Remove top soil, lay an inch or more around them, and replace the soil. It would also be acceptable around the fruit trees.