IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXXVII, Issue 23445, 27 September 1941, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (specially written for the press.) [By W. J. HUMM.] FLOWERS In the next few weeks gardeners will be busy planting out bedding plants for the summer display. The first week in October is early enough for most of these plants to be put out. Have the soil well worked to receive the plants, as many of them are annuals. and if checked in growth after planting they begin to form flowerbuds and do not develop properly. To get the best results from bedding plants only the strong, husky plants should be set out. A weak seedling can never make a satisfactory flowering plant, and superior displays are never the product of half-starved plants. Practical gardeners know this, and use only plants which have been raised from seeds of the best strains procurable, which have been nourished and handled in a practical way. Polyanthus is flowering well this season. It is a worthy garden plant and should find its way into every garden. If it is planted in groups beneath deciduous trees many beautiful colour effects may be produced. Polyanthus is of simple cultivation. If it receives plenty of leaf mould, welldecayed cow manure, and abundant moisture during the growing period it will flower to perfection. Lime and manures containing it should not be used. , , i To get the best results from polyanthus the seeds should be sown in October. They may be sown in the open ground in a semi-shaded position, but it is preferable to sow them m shallow boxes. Use freely sandy soil, to which leaf-mould has been added. Sow the seeds thinly and as soon as the seedings can be handled line them out into boxes, putting 50 plants into each. • They should be grown in these boxes, and during the summer grow them in a shady position. ' By autumn the plants should be large enough to plant out where they are to flower. Any outstanding variety flowering at present should be marked and the seed saved. It is surprising what a fine strain may be evolved by saving seeds from those plants which are superior in form and colour. Sow the seeds as soon as they are ripe. In gardens where the soil is dry during the summer and where bright effect is desired, try geraniums, both the zonal and ivy-leaved sorts. There are many varieties of both these plants suitable ‘ for bedding purposes. Few plants will flower more profusely and thrive with so little attention as geraniums. When preparing the beds, use a little lime and make the soil firm, for soil too rich or too loose will cause the plants to make rank growth. Other bedding plants that will grow in dry positions are dianthus. petunia, marigold, tageta, and antirrhinum. Continue to plant < out herbaceous plants and keep the hoe going through all beds and borders containing spring-flowering plants. SHRUBS The flowering peaches are at present in full glory. The two outstanding forms now making an effect are prunus persica splendens and prunus persica Clara Meyer. The former is the brightest of all spring flowering trees. The flowers are glowing cerise, and when grown in a position where it can develop to its fullest-extent few flowering trees can compare with it. The flowers are double, and each branch is clothed to the tip with blossom. Prunus persica Clara Meyer is similar in habit; and flowers just as profusely. It has double flowers of a rose pink shade. This plant is quite distinct in its habits of growth and flower arrangement, and, like splendens, is well worth a place in any garden. Beside these two there are several others in cultivation, double white, pink, and crimson flowered sorts being procurable.’ Flowering peaches should be planted in full sun. A free, well-drained soil suits them best. In over-rich soil the plants are liable to make too much ,wood growth, which as a rule does not ■’ripen well and therefore few flowers are produced. Peaches are lime-loving plants, and when supplied with lime their flo wer&«rft;»aiuch-improved and produced wlth'gcefftErrfreedom. By under-planting' many of the subjects now in bloom with grape hyacinths, many pleasing colour effects may be obtained. The blue colour of grape hyacinths supplies a colour not found in shrubs now in bloom. Achieving harmony by colour contrasts should be practised by those wishing to get the best effect from' their gardens. Magnolia stellata is one of the most desirable of the family for growing where space is limited. It makes but slow growth and flowers when quite young, and is therefore suitable for growing in small gardens. The flowers are white, shaded pink. They are very fragrant and are star-shaped in form, hence the name. An attractive picture is made when a plant of this magnolia has growing beneath it the blue grape hyacinth, as the two flower together. VEGETABLES Weather continues to be favourable for work in the vegetable garden. The wet state of the soil in some localities has retarded growth somewhat. Where the soil is heavy fork over the surface. This will cause the soil to warm up and better aeriation will then take place. Soil warmth is one of the main factors in the production of early vegetables. Early sown peas and broad beans, which are now well above the ground, may be moulded up, as with potatoes.

This will improve them wonderfully, for its gives the plants better anchorage, admits air to the roots, and allows healthier growth. Continue to make sowings of all salad vegetables, which like all successive crops, should be sown only in quantities large enough to supply the needs of the household. Gardeners should not gather a large quantity of vegetables once a month, but a few each day. Therefore the sowing and planting should be regulated so that there is a constant supply of young, succulent vegetables coming on. Plant cabbage and cauliflower, using the richest ground available for these crops. If the ground receives a good dressing of well-decayed farmyard manure it will assist to grow the plants quickly. If any wood ash is available use this also. Artichokes may be planted now. Strong, deep soil produces the best crops, and planting should be done in the full sun, as the plants will fail if grown in a shaded position. Keep the asparagus beds free from weeds, and where the soil is light give the plants weak applications of liquid manure. Sow asparagus, silver beet, brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflower, celeriac, celery, kohl-rabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard and cress. Plant asparagus, second early potatoes, seakale rhubarb, thyme and sage. Tomatoes may be planted in positions sheltered from frosts. If it has not already been done, prepare positions for pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers. Continue to make sowing of peas, Kelvedon Wonder, and English Wonder being reliable early sorts. For good second earlies, Dwarf Defiance and Greenfeast are to be recommended. The time is fast slipping away for sowing onion seed for the main crdp. Unless this is sown at once the crop will not mature in time for it to be harvested as it should be. Parsnips, too, where the soil is light, should be got m at once. Celery is one of the most wholesome and important vegetables, and there is certainly no crop the culture of which tends so much to improve the land and to leave it in the best possible condition for succeeding crops. By adopting a proper method of culture the ground is not only moved to a good depth, but is naturally exposed, after the process of earthing, to all kinds of weather, and this exposure does much to fine down and sweeten the soil. No vegetable responds better to liberal treatment than celery, and no vegetable gives more satisfaction when produced to perfection. Celery will succeed where the average vegetable can be grown, provided it is well cared for. Seed sowing is one of the most important items of culture. If sown too early, the crop may run to flower prematurely, and any severe check is also sufficient to cause “bolting.” From the time the seeds germinate the plants must be kept growing. Many fail with this crop simply because the plants are too old or in a half-starved condition when planted. For success with celery the young plants must be good sturdy specimens which have been grown on without check during the early stage: of their life. Many make the mistake of giving celery sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, and other forcing manures. These will cause the celery to grow pithy. By sowing seeds now and again, not later than the second week In October, celery may be had from April until August. ' A fairly light, sandy compost should be prepared. Place this in shallow boxes and sow the seed thinly. The seed, being small, should not be covered deep. Make the soil firm and water through a fine rose, then place a fine pane of glass or paper over the box. The seeds are slow to germinate and the seedlings delicate. When the plants are fit to handle prick them off into boxes, placing 50 in each box. Place these in frames and keep closed a few days until the roots take hold of the soil. Gradually admit air, and when they are established' fiive them full exposure and do not let them get dry at the roots. Growers who have not glass frames available may make a sowing in the open ground in early October. To make the seed beds two inches of finely sifted manure should be put in the bottom, and thtee inches of fine soil put over the manure and made level and moderately firm. The whole can be given a good soaking of water through a fine rose. Next day the seeds may be sown very thinly, and lightly covered with sandy, light soil. Shade the bed until the seedlings appear. When they are large enough, thin them out and leave in the selected plants until they are planted where they are to grow. When the plants are from five to six inches high no time should be lost in planting them out. , When the site for celery has been selected, the trenches should be taken out to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, and the bottom should be broken up as deeply as possible with a fork. Fill the trench within two or three inches of the top with half-decayed horse manure. Over this place enough of the excavated soil to bring it up to its original height. The trenches should be prepared some weeks before the planting takes place so as to enable the soil to become weathered. Especially is this necessary on stiff ground. Some growers are under the impression that celery should be sown in •deep trenches, but this is a mistaken idea as the nearer the surface the plants are grown the better, especially on heavy retentive soils. The trenches should be wide enough to accommodate two rows of plants set at nine inches apart, with each row five inches from the edge of the trench. Celery must not suffer for the want of water at any time in its growing period. Golden Self-blanching and White Plume are reliable early maturing sorts. The Coles Crystal White, Clayworth Pink Prize, and Solid Ivory are good late types.