IN THE GARDEN

Press, Volume LXX, Issue 21320, 13 November 1934, Page 5

IN THE GARDEN

—* — WORK FOR THE WEEK (SPECIALLY WRITTEN FOK TTIE TRESS.) [By V. J. lIUMM.] ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT E.D., Waiau —Your rose bushes are attacked by a fungoid disease known as rose rust. This may be stopped by spraying the plant with four ounces of limo sulphur to six gallons of water. Add to this one ounce of colloidal sulphur. Several applications will be necessary to check this disease. Spray at intervals of three weeks until the disease disappears. Sulphide of Potassium is also used to control this disease. Uso quarter of an ounce to the gallon of water. Spray the plants thoroughly and bo 6ure that tho undersurface of the leaves is well coated with tho spray. Next season after pruning give tho plant n good dressing of Bordeaux Mixture. Burn all prunings and leaves.

FLOWERS Dahlias are becoming very popular as border and bedding plants. They give a splendid display during summer and autumn months. Great improvements have been made during the last few years with this plant. There are now dahlias to suit many purposes. They embrace a wide colour range, and vary in height from 18 inches to six feet. The dwarf decorative, charm, miniature, and pompone, are suitable for bedding purposes. They may be planted from 18 inches to two feet apart, and require no staking. The tall growers should be planted from four to six feet apart. The dahlia does best when grown in a sunny and sheltered position. The soil should not be over manured. as this will cause rank growth, and the flower buds are often malformed, and will not bloom well if the plants are overfed. Do not plant dahlias in a shaded position or where they come in to contact with the roots of large trees, as they never grow or bloom to satisfaction in such positions. Dahlias which were raised from cuttings give the best results, but the old tubers may be divided up and planted out. The present is a good time to plant these useful subjects. The essential thing in the cultivation of these plants is to keep the soil well worked and in dry weather supply the plants with plenty of moisture. Thripe often makes its appearance, attacking the growing points and disfiguring the growth. The best way to get rid of these pests is to spray the plants with Black Leaf 40.

Continue to plant all classes of bedHing plants. Azaleas and rhododendrons will be much improved if a good mulch of lawn clippings or some well-spent manure is top-dressed about the roots of the plants and well watered in. As soon as aubretias have finished flowering they may be cut back. This will give the plants a tidy appearance, and improve them. These plants never flower well if allowed to mature a crop of seed. One of the most charming shrubs in flower at present is kolkwitzia amablis. The plant is a native of China, and has not been long in cultivation here. The plant is perfectly hardy, and is very free flowering. The flowers are something like weigelia-, but more refined. The colour is soft pink. The growth of the plant is pendulous, and when growth is in full bloom it gives a very charming effect. When known, this plant will become very popular. Another noteworthy plant in flower at the present time is abeiia triflora. This plant comes from the Himalayas. It is in every way a splendid garden plant, and is the largest growing of the abelias. The flowers are small, pink, arid are in compact clusters at the points of the shoots, those being sweetly scented. Although this plant was introduced many years ago, it is seldom seen in gardens.

VEGETABLES The weather of late has been dry, and many vegetable crops are needing assistance. This is best given by cultivating the soil, and there is no better implement than Ihe hoe. The following benefits are obtained by the proper use of this tool: (1) Hoeing keeps down weeds, which if allowed

to grow, would .compete with the crops for air, light, and plant foods in the soil. (2) Hoeing breaks up the surface soil when it has run together. Air and warmth are thus admitted, and these assist the chemical changes that take place in the soil, and the work of soil bacteria, both of which are active in the manufacture of plant foods. Most of the manures that are applied have to undergo changes in the soil before the crops can make use of them, and those changes go on most rapidly when air and warmth are admitted by breaking up the surface. This is why the hoeing of a crop often appears to give the effect of . a dressing of manure; and it indirectly feeds the plants. (3) Hoeing conserves moisture in the soil. It is true that the hoed surface of the soil soon dries, but the soil below remains moist. In dry, hot weather moisture is continually rising to the surface, where it is evaporated and lost in the air. Moisture travels up through the soil through what is known as capillary tubes. These form very quickly where the particles of soil are closely packed, and the mass is solid from top to bottom. Thus in prolonged droughts such land dries out to a considerable depth, and the plants suffer in consequence. If we break the surface by hoeing wc interrupt this upward flow of moisture and greatly reduce the rate of evaporation. Thus the constant use of the hoe is our best weapon against droughts, and reduces or entirely obviates the need of watering. (4) Hoeing, also aerates the soil. Plants cannot thrive if the soil is insanitary. Keep the soil in good physical condition and healthy plants will be the result. By working the soil frequently the temperature is raised. This is also beneficial to the plants, they cannot make headway in cold soil. By keeping them in robust health they are less liable to be attacked by pests. It is always the ill-nourished plants that are attacked first by disease. By hoeing many of the ground pests are actually killed or brought to the surface, where they are eaten by birds. Continue to plant main crop potatoes, also peas, beans (both runner and french varieties). Sow cabbage, savoys, broccoli, and curly kale for winter crops. Make sowings of carrots and beetroot, using the main crop varieties. Make small sowings of lettuce, radish, and onions. These will be useful for salads.

The present is a good time to plant out tomatoes. Procure good stocky, well-nourished plants. It is surprising how quickly they grow when the soil is warm. Get trenches dug ou| ready for celery. These should be dug to a depth of about 12 inches. In cold soils the trench need not be much below ground level. Place a quantity of well-rotted farmyard manure in the bottom and mix it well with the soil. Cover this with four inches of soil, firm up a few days before planting, and give the ground a good watering. A double row of plants may be put in the trench, allowing 12 inches between them, and nine inches between the plants. A trench for a double row should be not less than 18 inches wide. If farmyard manure cannot be obtained use blood and bone meal or superphosphate, two ounces to every yard of trench. Do not use sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda for celery, as this is too forcing and causes the celery to grow pithy. Marrows, pumpkins, and cucumbers may still be sown where they are to grow; they will come along very quickly if sown in a position where they get full sunlight. Be careful not to give the seed too much water, as they arc liable to rot if the soil is too wet.

FRUIT Continue to spray for the control of codlin moth, using arsenate of lead at the rate c«%one teaspoon to the gallon of water, or 21b per 100 gallons of water. Continually agitate the liquid while spraying is in operation. This spray should be repeated every three or four weeks during the summer. Lime sulphur and colloidal may be used in combination with the arsenate of lead for the control of fungoid diseases. Lime sulphur one in 100 gallons, add to this lib of colloidal sulphur. Be sure to give the trees a tnorough dressing, especially the under surface of the leaves. Spraying should always be carried out on a fine day. Never spray for the prevention of fungoid diseases when the foliage is wet. Beware of using arsenate of lead or other, poisonous preparations where lettuce, cabbage, or gooseberries are growing. Very often these plants are growing close by the trees which are to be sprayed, and unless they are covered will be contaminated by the fluid. Remember that these arsenate insecticides are poison, and on no account should the spray come into contact with vegetables or fruit for pre-

sent use. Where only a few trees are to be sprayed use one teaspoonful of lime sulphur and the same quantity of colloidal sulphur to the gallon of water. Before mulching the strawberry beds with straw litter give the established plants a dressing of two ounces of superphosphate and one ounce of sulphate of ammonia a square yard. Hoe this in lightly, or better, if lime permits, water in. Remove all runners except those required for making new plantations next season. Any of these required should be secured as soon as they are large enough. The first plant on the runner is the best to secure and only take these from those plants which are prolific. Plants which do not bear well are apt to transmit their defects to the plantlets formed from their runners. Another point to remember is to give these young plants some good material to root in. Good loam mixed with well-decayed manure and sharp sand will form a good rooting medium for them. Give these young plants attention during the growing period by keeping them free from weeds and also supply them with plenty of water. Should the weather remain dry you cannot be successful in growing strawberries unless you use sturdy, well rooted plants, which in most cases are best planted in autumn. Strawberry plants are the same as all fruiting plants: they have a period of productiveness. With the strawberry this does not extend beyond three or four years. After this age the plants are best discarded and a plantation of young ones put in to take their place. All suckers should be removed from the raspberry plants except six or eight of the strongest near the base of the fruiting canes. On no account should raspberries be cultivated deeply at this time of the year. Keep the weeds down and, if possible, give the plants a mulch of well-decayed farmyard manure. Lawn clippings are also valuable as a mulch, and during the fruiting period they should not suffer dryness at the roots. As soon as the plants have finished fruiting and the old canes removed give the young plants several dressings of arsenate of lead. This will decrease the borer pest. Continue to thin out surplus shoots on the grape vines and, if not already done, pinch the vine at the second or third joint beyond the bunch. Keep the floor of the house moist and ventilate freely. As a prevention against red spider and mildew spray the vines as soon as they have set their fruit with colloidal sulphur, using one ounce to the gallon of water. Meldew is a dreaded disease to those who grow grapes inside. Draught, caused by broken panes in the roof, is often the cause of much mildew amongst vines. A moist, humid atmosphere is required to grow grapes successfully. It is not advisable to let the temperature of the house rise beyond 85 degrees from the time of setting until ripe. The thermometer should fall 10 or 12 degrees at night or cold days.

THE GLASSHOUSE With a rise in temperature special attention must be given to plants growing under glass. Shading will be necessary for many of the plants now, especially fuchsia, begonias, palms, and all classes of ferns. Go through the house at least twice a day and damp down the paths and benches with water. This will create a growing atmosphere, and less watering will be required. Dry air conditions are often the cause of white fly, red spider, and many other plant pests making their appearance amongst the plants. In favourable weather, the ventilators are best kept open all night, as at this season of the year plants require the maximum amount of air. Cyclamens and primulas which flowered last winter should by now be out in the frame in a cool position. The same applies to primulas raised this season, they grow much better when given cool conditions. Coleus raised from seed last spring will now be ready to pot. Do not use too much manure in the potting compost as this causes rank growth and a poor colour. Coleus should be given a sunny position when fully established.

K cinerarias, primula, and malacoidos are required for flowering next winter, the seed should be got in at once. Continue to pot on chrysanthemums as they fill their pots with roots. The majority of the plants should now be in six-inch pots. Those established should have their growth stopped by pinching the centre out of the leading growth, this will cause the plants lo develop three or four leading shoots. These will be pinched back again in December. This will cause the plants to further increase the number of growths and make the plant grow bushy. If the grower's intention is

to have only a few good quality blooms on each plant then only the number of shoots required should be allowed to remain, selecting the strongest and rubbing off the weaker ones. Chrysanthemums should receive their final potting in December, and it is always advisable to prepare the compost for this purpose, and turn it several times before it is required. Soil for the final potting should consist of good turfy loam; to each barrow-load add a lifceral quantity of leaf mould, some well rotted manure, a four-inch pot of bone dust, and a four-inch pot of soot. Sharp sand should be well.mixed through the compost. If a little charcoal and wood ash is included it will improve the mixture. Fuchsias are growing fast now. Give the established plants liquid manure, and syringe the plants overhead at least twice a day during hot weather. These plants will do no good in a dry atmosphere. The same applies to hydrangeas and begonias. The established pelargonium should now be in full flower. These will require liquid manure to keep them vigorous. The young plants struck last autumn should now be in five-inch pots. Do not make a mistake and over pot these plants, overpotting is the cause of many pelargoniums not flowering satisfactorily. Pelargoniums should not be watered overhead when they are flowering. Should green fly make its appearance the plants are best fumigated.