WASHING THE CAR

Press, Volume LXIX, Issue 21050, 29 December 1933, Page 4

WASHING THE CAR

riANi>Y EQrifM)•; N T Much time and exertion can be saved if suitable equipment is procured for washing and cleaning the car and the work is undertaken in a methodical manner. The tediousness of that unattractive task can be halved if the motorist knows how to carry out the work in a professional manner. It is best to use an adjustable nozzle on the hose so that one can easily avoid playing a high-pressure jet on glistening body panels, or parts of the chassis where the water might penetrate to bearings and bushings. It is also desirable to keep all cleaning kit for the bodywork separate from that which is used on wheels, brake arums, bumper bars, and other parts where mud and grit accumulate. The main equipment is a large carriage sponge, a chamois leather, and some soft cloth for cleaning and wiping down the bodywork. These materials should be duplicated, so that there is another outfit for the wheels and chassis. Spoke and mudguard brushes are also useful and enable one quickly to scrape off incrustations of dirt which encourage deep rusting on. the undersides of the guards. Loosening Dirt. Before proceeding to hose down the vehicle, carry out any cleaning and dustin-g of the roof, mats, and upholstery which may be necessary, and then if there is any dried mud on the lac-quer-work soften it with a gentle stream of water before applying the sponge. If the chassis is washed on every occasion that the coachwork is cleaned it will not be difficult to keep it in good order. Gummy deposits of grease and dirt can be quickly loosened with kerosene applied on a stiff brush. Although in the days of "paint-and-varnish" coachwork it was sometimes held that 110 polishing compound should be used, it is unquestionably advisable periodically to treat lacquer finishes with an approved polish. A majority of such preparations has a wax base and can be rubbed up to form a hard, lustrous film which protects the lacquer from grit, moisture, and sunlight. But before polishing is begun the suface should be dried with a "shammy" leather, which should first be soaked in clean water and then well wrung out. Have a bucket of water close at hand and rinse and wring out the leather from time to time as the work proceeds. As a rule the surface should be dry before the polish is put on, and should therefore be wiped down with a soft, absorbent dry cloth. No attempt should be made to polish wide areas at a time, and when dealing with plated fittings such as the headlamps and door handles the use of any abrasive sort of metal polish should be avoided.