ALPINE GUIDES.

Press, Volume LXVII, Issue 20334, 5 September 1931, Page 16

ALPINE GUIDES.

LICENSING PROPOSED. A GOVERNMENT BILL. ♦ —— REGULATION OF MOUNTAIN CLIMBING. [From Oca Parliamentary Reporter.] WELLINGTON, September 4. Tlio Prime Minister, the Rt. Hon. G. \V. Forbes, says tliat legislation in connexion with tourist resorts to provide for the licensing of guides to take charge of parties of alpinists will probably be introduced in tho House of Representatives next week. It is understood that the legislation is an outcome of representations made to the Prime Minister in view of the trouble caused through an unguided party climbing Mount Ituapehu a week ago. If the proposed legislation is passed by tho House it will prevent parties from undertaking alpine journeys without the safeguard of an experienced guide. Tho measure will be mainly applicable to the Tongariro National Park and Mount Cook region.

GOVERNMENT'S LONG

DELAY.

YEAR-OLD CONFERENCE.

EFFORTS AT LEGISLATION.

Although Cabinet is now greatly concerned at the loss of climbers on Mount Buapeliu and is, according to a message from "Wellington, drafting legislation to provide . for tho licensing of alpine guides, it was pointed out to The Pjiess yesterday that the Government, through its unnecessarily long delay in giving effect to tho recommendations of tho conference of alpine authorities which met on September 30th, 1930, has itself been encouraging laxity among mountaineers. That conference meeting eleven months ago, understood that its recommendations were almost immediately to be made law. Although further representations have since been made, the Government has taken no action until its hand has been forced by the public concern at the loss of the party on Euapehu. The agitation for tho licensing and regulation of alpino guides has been proceeding for many years past. As long ago as 1922 Mr A. P. Harper submitted a considered memorandum of the whole subjoct'lo the Government, but no action was taSTen. Efforts were continually ma&c to secure recognition by the Government of the dangers of , haphazard climbing, but not until. January, 1930, whon tho most serious mountaineering tragedy in New Zealand's history occurred,on the Tasinan Glacier, .did they have any effect. On that occasion four women and a guide died on the Tasman Glacier from exposure and lightning during a heavy thunderstorm that broke suddenly as they were returning from the Malto Brun Hut to tho Hermitage. This disaster brought renewed agitation from all parts of the country for some regulation that would protect bo.th the public and the guides themselves. To emphasise the necessity for* legislation was one of tho chief reasons- for the formation ,of the Federation of Mountain Clubs. Another Tragedy Predicted.

In.an interviev which appeared in Thh Pbess yon Jujie 21st, 1930, Mr A. P. Harper, president of the New Zealand Alpine Club, made this statement: Wo must have proper regulations and properly qualified men or , there will be another tragedy. High alpine climb•ing is a very technical sport, calling for ■great skill and years of .knowledge. At present there is no test imposed or qualification demanded' by- a competent authority before a person is given charge of a party in country where an accident is bound to have serious, if not fatal result's. Work above the snow-lirie is highly specialised, involving'danger to life if attempted without duo experience. To send out at the head of a party a man not properly qualified is putting both the guide and the tourists in danger. Yet this is possible, and actually happens under present conditions. The 1930 Conference. Mr Harper's proposals were then fully endorsed in Christchudch by the president of the Christchurch Ski Club (Mr Roy Twyneham), by Mr G. E. Mapnering, ono of the best-known alpinists in New Zealand, by Dr. J. C. Bradsliaw, and by many others interested in mountaineering. They were, indeed, supported throughout the Dominion, and increasing agitation culminated in a conference called by the Department of Industries, Commerce, Tourist, and Publicity, at the suggestion of the New Zealand Alpine Club, and held at , Wellington on September 30th, 19S0. This conference, presided over by the manager of the Department (Mr G. W. Clinkard) was attended by members of Parliament, representatives of tho : guides and of their employers, and members of the Alpine Club. After considerable discussion on the practicability: of guiding regulations, the following motion was carried: . That it shall be illegal for- any person to act without a license for pay or remuneration as an alpine guide, and for any person to employ an unlicensed alpine guide. - Provision of Licenses. The conference suggested the appointment of a Licensing Board comprising one representative each of the Tourist j Department, the New Zealand Alpine Club, and the Federation of Mountain Clubs, and two first-class qualified guides. A sub-committee was set up to : confer with the Department on tho drafting of legislation, comprising Messrs E. L. Wigley, A. P. Harper, Vosseler, P. Graham, Hooker, and Murphy. This legislation, it was understood, was to provide for the licensing of three grades of guides, qualified according to the nature and the difficulty of the work which they would undertake. One of the first works of the sub-committee was'to be the classification of the country which guides- of each different grade might traverse. First-class licenses would be issued only td' guides capable of climbing and lead-

ing parties on the most difficult mountains in New Zealand. ■ The secondclass licenses would entitle guides to take parties on peaks of less difficulty, while third-class licenses would be issued to porters only. On his return to Christchurch from the conference, Sir Twyneham said it was evident that the Government would give effect to the recommendations made. . No Action Taken. From that time to the present no action has been taken, and guiding has been permitted under the same loose system as before. Further representations failed to move the Govetnment, , and only a few weeks before the loss on Buapehu the Federation of Mountain Clubs was preparing a new campaign for legislation. ' 'Now that 1 the Buapehu loss has brought matters to a head, it is to be hoped that no action will be taken that is - merely hysterical," said the secretary of tho Christchurch Ski Club (Mr G. G. Lockwood) to a reporter yesterday. The various mountain and alpine clubs, lie said, were unanimously in favour of legislation, and had for a long time awaited it. Mr Lockwood aid not think it likely that amateur climbers would be forbidden to lead parties, for that would ruin amateur mountaineering. The great need was for the proper classification' of'guides and the creation of some standard of ability -and experience.