IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LIX, Issue 17937, 4 December 1923, Page 10

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

'SrSCiALLT WIUTTEN TOE "THE FEESS.") (BY J. T. SINCLAIR.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS Kose—When eaxiy flowered climbing roses are past their best they should have all the old flower buds removed eo as to keep the plant in tidy condition. Climbers and weeping standards, especially the fitter, require very liberal treatment, and even in showery '.veather they are apt to suffer from lsw't of wat.-r, the heavy znas3 of foliage keeping the rain off the ground immediately underneath, hence the necessity of an occasional iced •vith liquid m.inure, as well as copious water:nga vith clear water. •i.W.—lt is a difficult matter to keei- cabbages free from blight. "While young 1 they can be sprayed with insecticide, or dusted over with dry soil, iime, or eoo .. Spraying- with clear watur unckr pressure is about all that can be done wiicn the plants attain a fair size. If the water i 3 at a temperature of 120 deg. it is very effectual.

Ngaio—l am eorry I cannot enlighten Joa as regards tho white forget-me-not. If yon write to tho Government Fields Inspector he would probably be able to tell yon. VEGETABLES. Leeks. —These should find a place in every small ganden as they arc easy to grow., are practically free from pests, and supply nourishing food at a time when other vegetables are scarce. Another thing in their favour is that they can be used in tho kitchen for at least six months in the year. Tho ground in which they are to grow should be in lirst class condition, as they respond wonderfully to generous treatment, and as is usual with most vegetables, the longer the size obtained the liuer tho flavour is found to be. The way to get the finest specimens is to grow them in trendies as is usual with celery, and either put paper collars ! round the stem or now and again draw a little soil around them. This method, of course, takes a good deal of time. A much simpler way is when the plants are from ten to twelve inches in height thoy can be dropped Bingly and loosely into holes eight or nine inches deep made by a crowbar or blunt dibber, leaving a distance of about nine inches from plant to plant and eighteen inches between the rows. The holes should bo made at the bottom of a drill drawn three or ao inches deep. By simply pouring water into each hole the root's of tho plants beeome fixed; as the plants grow the drill can be hoed in, and later wnen they have attained a fair size they can be earthed up with tho draw hoe. They will then be found to be perfectly blanched when lifted. This method obviates the troublesome, cumbersome and old-fashioned way of placing paper collars round the stems. Frequent waterings with liquid manure should be given during the growing season, as the plants are naturally gross feeders.

Bunner Beans. —These can be kept dwarf by pinching the shoots when the plants are in flower. This causes the stems to branch and keep dwarf. A sowing can be put in now which will yield a very servicable crop of pods late in the season. When grown thus, the rows need not be more than 2ft 6in apart. FRUIT. Vines. —The latest vines having set their fruits, the ghoota ' may be tied to the trellis. The operation should be performed with care, especially in the caso of varieties with soft shoots, such as Black Alicante. The shoot should be tied gradually lower and lower, at intervals of a few days, until they reach the- trellis, which- should be sufficiently far from the glass to enable the foliage to obtain plenty of ventilation. All bunches of grapes should be removed except those required for the crop. Even if the vines seem to be growing vigorously the crop should not be too heavy, or the fruit will not ripen properly. The berries should: be thinned as soon as possible, especially in the case of free-setting varieties, the fruit of which swells very quickly. Late grapes, especially varieties that produce large bunches and berries, should be thinned more severely than the summer ones, so as to ensure a free circulation of air between the grapes in the autumn, when the atmos-

phere is likely to damp. This applies more particularly to houses which are not provided with artificial heat. The final thinning, however, may be delayed until it can be determined which berries are likely to be longest and best. Do not permit over-crowding of the shoots and foliage, and tho lateral growths springing from the base of the loaves, if allowed to grow at all, should be allowed to develop only one leaf each. Overcrowding does not leave enough space for the free development of the necessary foliage. "When the thinning is finished examine the border, and if found to be dry soak the soil with liquid manure, sprinkle a little nitrate of soda over the surface of the border and afford only sufficient water to moisten the surface roots. If the border is inside over-watering must be carefully avoided, and efficient ventilation must accompany every application of liquid manure. Houses which have fire heat should not be given artificial heat at this season unless the weathe* is cold and wet. From now on

the aim of the grower should be to get . the foliage as tough and leathery as i 3 N possible. This is necessary if this season's crop is to be finished properly. The paths and other surfaces should be sprinkled daily to maintain a moist atmosphere and so check attacks of red spider. To prevent mildew dry sulphur can be dusted over the foliage, Keep a sharp lookout for mealy bug, and when any appear track each insect with a small camel hair pencil, which has been dipped in methylated spirita or petrol. FLOWERS. On the treatment given them now depends the subsequent display of the Kniptiofias (red-hot poker plants). They may grow up tall and strong and give handsome spikes of blooms, or they may fnake but half their normal growth and be altogether disappointing as a decorative feature. <To few things does neglect, especially in a dry season, make so great a difference. What they need most of all is free watering « throughout their growing season; but to get the best out of them feed them with liquid fertiliser once a week also. The various hardy blooms (cytisus) have been rarely beautiful this season. They require a certain amount of pruning and that should be carried out directly after they have finished flowering, the old shoots being shortened down to the most promising of the young ones. Of coarse, in the case of standards some regard must be paid when pruning to the shape of the eh rub, which it is necessary should be as compact and regular as possible. To secure the longest possible duration of beauty and freshness in most cut flowers it is necessary to gather them either when they are on the point of opening or just when opened, and to cut (not break) them either in the early morning or last thing in the evening. Take as long a stem as possible aad slit tlie stem upwards for an ineh or two from the base in the case of flowers with hard or woodv stems. Long stems are desirable for the pake of artistic arrangement, but also

they are helpful in preserving the beauty of the flower. They enable a little piece to be cut off the end of the stem now and then in order to keep the end soft. When cut flowers are drooping they can often be revived by placing the ends in very hot water for five minutes and then cutting oft' the immersed portion of the stem. The Shirley poppy can be made much of in the cut state if the buds be taken when their colour is just discernible, !>ut this delightful flower is almost useless for table dc-coration if gathered when it has expanded.