RISE IN ERMINE.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 285, 1 December 1936, Page 13

RISE IN ERMINE.

RABBITS TO THE FORE.

PEERESSES AT THE CORONATION

(By NELLE AI. SCANLAN.)

LONDOX, October 23

The price of ermine has risen. That news does not affect many of us. We arc more interested in the fact that at the last fur sales in London, and London is tlie fur centre of the world, the price of other furs dropped a little.

The rise in ermine is due to the Coronation, but it is surprising to know that other furs have not crept up in sympathy. It must indicate that there are larger supplies available, and not a decreasing demand. With better times generally on this side of the world, there is. a constant demand for furs and fur trimming, and the enforced economies of a few years ago, no longer restrict those who have got into tlie fur class.

To what extent retail prices will be affected by the fall in prices at the pelt sales is another matter. We know from experience that when wool goes up a few pence a pound, it is an argument for bumping up tho price of manufactured goods, or suits, by a sum far in excess of the wool content. Sometimes the shilling rise in the quantity of wool required, may add a guinea to the costume, or at least that is the explanation given in the shop. "You know, madam, that wool has

gone up." And there you must be content. But when wool prices go down, the guinea is not so readily lopped off again. And no doubt it will be much the same with furs. The drop in tlie price of pelts may not mean that you will get your musquash or squirrel coat any cliea'per this season. But then, you may. However, with the whole world planning a march on London next yeai, and one of tlie objectives of most women visitors the purchase of furs or fur coats, the demand will more than equalise the small drop in the price of pelts. The historic old Hudson Bay 1" ur Company held the first , sale, and pi ices generally were from 5 to 10 per cent lower than last year. The price of ermine, Canadian sable and American marten has risen about 71 per cent. Stone marten and baum _ mar ten remained unchanged, and mink is about the same. . A few centuries ago ermine was exclusively a royal fur, and the common people were not permitted to wear it Ermine was a badge of royalty, and i was fixed by royal decree. Since tie Middle Ages the London centre of the fur trade has been situated near Cannon Street station, and it is still tliei e. Skins and pelts were used by our primitive ancestors to keep out the cold, but these were rough and ready garments. In the early centuries, when the wearing of ermine was a royal preiogative, the nobility were, as it were, rationed. The duchess, countess, baroness, viscountess and the other grades had their allotted portion; so many bands, so many wide. And in preparation for the coming Coronation all this detail is being dug out once more, so that women of each rank will have the correct number of rows and lialf-rows on their robes.

There is no longer any restriction "about the wearing of ermine on evcry-day occasions; it is just a matter of expense, and those who can afford ermine may wear it. But it was not until the thirteenth century that freedom was conferred upon the common people to wear it if they could pay for it. Now, it is often those entitled to wear it by virtue of their rank who cannot pay the price, and it is well known that much of the ermine which will grace the peeresses' mantles will grow on the humble bunny rabbit. Furriers have become so expert now that they can disguise rabbit fur most convincingly. The royal velvet usually chosen for a peeress' cloak and kirtle is very expensive, and it takes vast quantities. It has been estimated tha't £200 is a fair iprice to pay for the garment, trimmed with its allotted rows of ermine, and not every peeress is going to sink that sum into gorgeous raiment for a brief hour or more. A cheaper form of velvet is being produced, but until the Earl Marshal has exhausted his search into the' past, and has definitely decided whether the traditional kirtle or ordinary evening dress is to be worn under the peeress' robes, an exact estimate cannot be made. Alany, however, are buying rabbitermine, and few will bo the wiser.

Peeresses will not wear their coronets, which will detract somewhat from the spectacle. But as these are carried by the ladies, and placed upon tlieir heads at the moment the Queen is crowned (and this time there is no Queen), hence they will not need them. Another question that is exercising t.lio Earl Marshal is whether the two young Princesses, Elizabeth and Margaret Rose, should wear coronets on this occasion. The full range of Coronation colours has now been chosen, four of which are named after Royal palaces. Gold, crimson and purple are essentially Royal. But now we have added Buckingham lilac, a shade which, no doubt, Queen Alary will adopt now that Royal mourning is over. Marlborough blue is of the forget-me-not tone, Holvrood green is a delicate shade suggesting beautiful pottery or enamel, and St. James' rose is a faded old rose tone. The lilac and old rose shades were very popular in France during the eighteenth century, when French Courts set the fashion for Europe.

But to return to furs. England is now growing a number of silver foxes, and fox farms are increasing.' These animals require great care and constant attention is necessary to see that nothing happens to mar the value of the pelt. I know a woman who runs one, and she told me that she gets £20 for one good fur, and tjiat she lias never received less than £5.

I heard a fox fur expert speaking lately, and he spoke of a fox farm in Canada which he had seen, where thev kept 3i500 foxes. But in the United States as many as 15,000 foxes were being farmed by one man. The demand for silver fox is very steady; it does not vary so much as other furs'; it is an institution with the tailored costume, and now it is greatly used in elaborate capes, both for day and evening wear, and also for collars on other furs.

Paris, I see, is trying to revive interest in sealskin, and bring it back to its old importance in the world of fashion. Brown Alaska seal, in capes, threequarter length and f'ull-lengtli coats, some fitting, and some with loose backs, are being shown in exclusive shops. And seal musquash is sharing in the revived popularity of sealskin.