TO CORRESPONDENTS

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 181, 1 August 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS

J.W. (Opotlki) writes: I have a wistaria which is trained on a rustic fence. It in a sunny position and lias been in about three years, but so far has. not flowered. Can you say if it is likely to flower in its present position, or, if not, should I shift it alongside a wall? If «hit'ted, should It be cut back? (2) I have also a yellow jasmine in flower. Would it be safe to shift it now, or .should I wait until it has finished flowering?— (1) Providing the situation where your wistaria is growing is well duained, X should certainly not remove it from a' rustic fence, for that or a pergola is the most natural position you could give. I have no doubt that it will flower all right, and sooner -than if it were lifted. It is naturally rather slow at (lowering unless in a very favourable situation. If it had to be removed it would be necessary to cut it well back. To prune, cut back to two or three buds all weak lateral shoots. The wistaria (lowers on spurs almost similar to the apple tree. (2) You may remove your yellow jasmine any time you like now, the sooner the better. If it has made much growth, cut it well back, leaving only a few young stout growths to give it a start again. If it has a bushy appearance, tliin out some of the weak growths. A.B.W. (Te Kuiti) asks : What is the cause of enclosed begonia leaf going rusty and assuming a glazed appearance?— The begonia is affected by the begonia leaf mite, a minute creature which infests the under side of the leaves, sucking out the juices and injuring the tissues so that growth practically ceases. The pest may bo kept in check by spraying at intervals of three weeks with tobacco water, made by infusing loz strong shag tobacco in 1 gallon of hot water over- ' night, covering up closely and straining. Dipping the plants in the solution is better than spraying. The spraying or dipping should bo repeated after four days, and then at a. ten days' interval. A little weak liquid manure would probably .help the plants. J.G. (Hamilton) asks how to make Woburn winter wash for fruit trees?— The Woburn wash is iron sulphate Jib, caustic soda 21b, lime Jib, kerosene 5 pints and water to make 10 gallons. To prepare the wash dissolve the iron sulphate in about nine gallons of water. Tho lime should then be slaked in a little water and well stirred, a little more water being added to make a "milk." The "milk" of lime should next be run into the iron sulphate solution through a piece of sacking or a fine sieve to remove grit or course particles. The kerosene should then be added and tho mixture churned thoroughly. Just before usfng the powdered caustic soda should be added to complete the wash. Use while the trees are dormant, preferably early in August. As the wash has a burning effect, face, eyes and hands should be protected when using it. OLD BILL (Grey Lynn) asks: (1) The ingredients for mixed herbs, the amount of each herb? (2) You say in an article that sulphate of phosphate was a good chemical for onions. Where obtainable, price and how to apply? (3) Where can I purchase gypsum (sulphate of lime) and sulphate of magnesia?—(l) I supi pose you refer to the packets of dried mixed herbs sold in shops. I cannot say what to use' or how much of each to use. (2) There is no sulphate of phosphate; it is sulphate of potash you refer to. This is obtainable at any seed store or where they stock manures. Price varies according to market and quantities required. It is best applied before onions are planted, at the rate of one ounce per square yard : can be mixed with super or other manures. (3) Yon can purchase these from any merchant who handles manures.