FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXIV, Issue 237, 7 October 1933, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

OLD WAYS REVIVED

PECULIAR JEWELLERY.

(By A PAKIS K XPERT.)

Fashion's latest whim is encouraging a lot of digging in grandmother's jewel case for carved ivory jewellery, which is back with a bang. There arc sinisterlooking dragons that twine about the arm to make a smart bracelet, long and short necklaces, and exquisite earrings, hand-carved in a variety of designs. Their colour is neither dead-white nor yellowish; it is a rich cream that is a flattering and smart accompaniment to the summer dress shades. If the family jewel case fails to produce some, the smart shops will offer a tempting selection.

Telephone wire is next in the fashionable world. Hells and necklaces in twisted flat coils of the copper-tone wire appear as ornaments for our new clothes. Most of them are worn with brown or dark blue costumes.

Then there arc the new metal cuffs and collars of heavy metal enamelled in various colours. The "bracelets" look like turned-back cuffs, and are about three inches wide. They lit tightly round the wrist over the sleeve, and widen out as they reach up the arm. There ar© (luce-inch wide necklaccs to go with them, which have all the appearance of a collar, as they are worn over the edge of the dross-neck.

The last word in clip-pins is one made of a cluster of diamond leaves arranged in a little bouquet, and clipped on to a dress or coat. Bright-coloured bracelets in triplets are being worn with dark costumes. The newest necklace is made of huge crystal globes strung together, and containing actual water. Sometimes tiny celluloid fishes in bright colours swim about in the globes. New Details. The general revival of the epaulette is already marked. To be square above the waistline is to be smart. To look square at the top is the ideal of the smart girls in Paris. This top-fullness brings back the epaulette tendency just when decidcd shoulder-padding is on the wane. As a matter of fact, all the more youthful models for coats and dresses, in wools and cottons, are designed with accentuated sleeve-tops of shoulders. This is accomplished either by the cut of the yoke, by frilly trimmings, or by the applied formal epaulette, but generally the breadth is there, and makes waists look smaller than they otherwise would. Skirt lengths are not an-issue any more. -All skirts arc longer—below the calf for morning, ankle length for afternoon. In the evening they sometimes trail languorously or sweep the floor with taffeta ruffles, sewed under the hem-edge, to give a Guy de Maupassant frou-frou. Waistlines remain stationary or, if anything, move downwards. Belts are low, and evening dresses, usually are moulded and have 110 waistlines at all. There are fewer top-coats than suits and jacketed dresses. The newest jackets are knee-length, loose, hanging from the shoulder, and extremely full in back, worn over dresses of a lighter shade of the same colour. There are some loose, short jackets, but trim, matching or clashing with their skirt.

There are some snug waist-length shoulder ea'pcs. Everywhere in Paris one sees some version of the three-quarter bell-shaped coat, and there is another type of coat which looks new; it just moots up the front, instead of overlapping, and is frequently buttoned from the top nearly to the knee, and, in walking, opens below to show the frock. Evening Gowns With Trains. Evening gowns with trains, and cut shorter in front, are going to be in the forefront of fashion when the autumn collections make their bow to the public. Cire laee makes many of the new evening dresses. This lacquered lace is also used for stiff upstanding frills outlining the decollete and hem-lines of dresses. Tlio drop-shoulder line is seen on many evening dresses.

On tlio principle that fine feathers make fine birds, a number of designers are putting feathers on their evening gowns. Feathers are used in the place of bustle-bows, curled ostrich feathers if you can afford them, or coq feathers; or unnamed tabs of odd plumage. Bracelets of feathers are placed high round the arms of evening dresses. With regard to colour for evening wear, you can take your choice of a mixed palette. Some fashionable women adore red, others have a weakness for pink. Some favour fuchsia and combinations of red and purple. Others pin their faith to pale blue. Interesting evening colours are

wlieat yellow, a pale creamy yellow, a gilly-flower mauve, and a browned mauve. Colour, aside from dark blue and string, is not, I think, an issue. The New Mania. The new mania in sets of things. Hat, scarf, collarette, or cravat, belt, bag, and gloves, and the greatest of these is gloves. Women have hesitated up to now over gloves made of such stuffs as unbleached linen, crash, pique, coloured crepe, or for evening, printed organdie, shiny or laequrcd satin, but they will vacillate no longer. Everybody is doing it.

Your gloves are 110 longer isolated affairs. They are all related to somefiling, and many of them form part of tho family. For evening, gloves of the material of the dress arc worn, or of oldfashioned net. Gloves of velvet crash and pique have palms of kid or washleather.

Every little dress has a wraplet of its own, whether it be a cape, an adorably vaguo little jacket, or the three-quarter length loose-and-easy, which is perfect for summer days. Many of the coats and jackets are collarless, or tied with their own material.