TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LXII, Issue 96, 24 April 1931, Page 6 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules in sending questions for publication In these columns: — I—Letters should be In not later than Tuesday to be answered the s&mo week—addressed to Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side of the paper and make all communications as concise as possible. 3 —Flowers, etc., sent for naming, must be sent separately, and, If possible, packed in ;i tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken iu transit and tin? contents damaged. « 4—The full name and address of the sender must always be sent, but a nom de plume or initial may be given for publication.

M.W. (flelensville) sends two specimens for identification.—The salvia is Salvia violacea, a shrubby variety that is hardy about Auckland, but not much further south, although even if touched by a light frost will send up shoots from the base. It Is a very welcome addition to the garden, as it (lowers In autumn and early winter. It needs a warm, well-drained position. The tree is Podocarpus ferruginous (Miro). L.A.M. (Dannevirke) asks If White Island No. 1 has turned out a certain cure for club root In cabbage.—l cannot say that it is a certain cure. Heavy liming, and planting on new soil, that Is, soil that has not previously or for a number of years grown cabbages, is the best cure. Of course it Is necessary that the plants should when first planted be free from tho disease. Often club root is transmitted from the seed bed, and once a plant is attacked there is no cure. SWKET PEAS (Epsom) asks: What Is the best way to grow sweet peas for show blooms? If seed is planted now when "will they flower? The ground has been well trenched. — Seed of the summer flowering varieties sown now would flower about October. Sow the seed singly in small paper pots. These can be obtained at seed stores. Use a sandy compost and shelter from heavy rains. When plants are about four inches high they can be planted out about a foot apart. Small twiggy sticks should be placed around to protect the plants and keep them off the soil. They will grow slowly during the winter, and in early spring, when they commence to "run." the shoots should be reduced to two for the weak growing varieties and up to four for the strong sorts. Keep these shoots tied to the supports and pinch out any lateral shoots until (hey commence to bloom. Throughout the season the soil must be worked round about, the plants, keeping It loose and friable to prevent it caking or weeds growing. The ground having been trenched, little manure will be needed until the plants commence to flower, but if you think any Is needed give a little bonedust at planting time, and in the spring one or two applications of superphosphate.

W.K. (Epsom) sends an apple for Identification.—lt Is Grannie Smith. AMATEUK (Sandrlngham) sends a bean for Identification?—lt is Blue Pod Putter. Its chief quality is the purple tint of Its foliage and pods. As a culinary bean there are many sorts much superior, and except as a novelty it is not worth growing. REIODO (Dominion Koad) writes: I have two rhododendrons, different varieties. One looks healthy, the other has made new leaves, but they are blighted and rusted, the edges turning brown. Some time ago I sprayed with lime sulphur, but so far without satisfactory results. Do you suggest a stronger solution, or is there some other remedy?—Do not use any stronger spfay. The spraying will not cure the leaves that are already blighted, but will keep the new leaves clean. The spraying should be done just as the leaf buds commence to burst. Wettnble or atomic sulphur is better than lime sulphur, as it contains no free lime. If too much lime sulphur were used the lime would be detrimental to the rhododendrons. HEADER (Tryphena) writes: I am sending (1) Specimen of a pear we have had for some years. It was got for Bon Chretleij, but it is not the same as the other trees. It seems to take too long to ripen. (2) A piece of chrysanthemum affected by a blight which has almost killed it. The leaves do not grow, but turn a reddish tint, almost an autumnal tint. Can you tell me what it is?—(1) The pear sent is Vicar of Winkfield, and is a late pear, coming into use about June. It needs a long growing season and a warm position, and the fruit should be left on as long as possible. Anyway, they should not be gathered before April. The reason of the fruit drying up is due to beins picked before they are fully matured. (2) The trouble is leaf scorch, and can be controlled by spraying with lime sulphur 1-125, but It is necessary to spray as soon as the shoots appear above ground. Actually it is not very serious, and does not spread very fast, seeming to attach itself to certain plants and remain there. As the cost of clean, fresh plants is not much the best way is to burn the affected plants and get some fresh ones. This is easier and cheaper in the end than bothering with remedial methods. BULBS (Mount Eden) writes: (1) Would it do any harm to daffodils, tulips and other bulbs to topdress with White Island by hoeing it in. The bulbs- are just showing through the ground? (2) Some years ago I planted some tulips and lifted them just as the foliage was dying down. About half of the bulbs went soft and I had to replant the rest. I planted another lot and left them till tbe tops had completely died away and then lifted them. The bull-s were good and firm. They were left in the sun for two days to dry thoroughly, but in about five weeks they were all mildewed and 1 lost half of them. The place they are stored in is absolutely dry. When I lift this season I shall let the bulbs die right down, lift awl store them In boxes about three inches deep and powder the bulbs with sulphur. What would you advise to prevent soft bulbs?— The reason for the bulbs going soft and also getting mil dewed is due to fungi, or, in other words, disease. It is difficult to tell you exactly what to do. The reason it is recommended to lift the bulbs just before the foliage flies down completely is because the bulb retains the outside brown skin better, although this is not always the case. The tulip makes roots earlv, and if left till the foliage has died down completely, should a heavy rain come, the bulbs start making roots before they can be lifted. If you find leaving them gives the best results do so by all means. The sulphuring may prevent mildew but the best method is to plant earlier. The tulip bulb is a bad keeper when out of the ground, osoecially in our climate, and although lifting each year may be advisable, the bulbs should only be kept out of the ground long enough for cleaning and sorting, and be planted as quickly as possible. Sprinkling the White Island ■would be all right whilst the bulbs are dormant, but once the tops are through ' It should be scattered between the rows.