LATEST FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XLVII, Issue 168, 15 July 1916, Page 17

LATEST FASHION NOTES.

(By a Paris Expert.) 1 p

PARIS, May 9. "ON KEVIBNT TOUJOUBS." Wβ come hack inevitably not only to our first lovee in the world of dresses, but to our first hates, I think. And not to those early detestations, still detesting, tut veering half-way round the compass to the point of loving what we once loathed. "It is well to begin with a mutual aversion." And it is also well that we should understand that in this world of dress the things we can't stand at any price usually can't stand us either —that, often enough, thej' begin to dislike us before we hate them. There is something in that theory really. COLOURS. Take some of the new colours, for instance—the magentas, the horrible pinks (not the pretty ones), the rcils that Nature is so fond of, the bluer pinke, and the purple rede—nothing lovely, rather ugly than otherwise, but so smart, and therefore so clever. Take those other pinks—the pinks of the ancient geranium, the "cold pink flannel" that the wrong kind of raspberry tastes of, the pink of the antirrhinum your gardener insists ou getting for you—the pink of thrift, of the kind of sweet-pea that the catalogues are really frank and truthful about —why should we wear these ehadee just because they happen to foe a la mode, and go 'with the Early Victorian dresses, in themeelvce so pretty, when there are so many lovely shades to choose from? What about the yellow tints—those adorable sulphur "duckling" and soap shades that are 60 chic; the delectable jade greens— green of sea-water, of a summer wood, of an evening sky! Why refuse the really beautiful and fascinating blues, and pass over the pale rose pinks, the peachI bloom pinks, the mauves? But 1 must not digress. HATS OF INTEREST. War or no war, the summer hats this season axe lovely. Some are extreme, and others are, though equally smart, simplicity itself. And there are really no fashions in hats. Isn't that comforting? We arc not forced to wear an inI verted pie-dish or balance a flat plate j on our coiffuree; but we can choose our chapcaux just to suit our own sweet will. The old-fashioned monthly rose— now how charming that looks on a bat j I am intimately acquainted with —a big ' grey hat, with quantities of grey-dyei] I feathery grass, jrrass like a c-loud "of I dust. What could apeak more subtly of i Nature than another hat in transparent black lace, with draperies of the same, i and trimmed with an armlul, no less, of red, deep pink and pale pink waxen tulips, all crudely blue and acid in tone, and so realistic in consequence. These waxen flowers are certainly very remarkable. A wreath on a pale citroncoloured straw hat is of white waxen I lilies. Another one 1 liked best of all ! was of pink tegal. and trimmed with ' masses of satin roaes. of all the shades j possible in this colour, -with never a leaf nor a bud. only a rope of thorny stalks. KEYNOTE OF THE ENTIRE DRESS MOVEMENT. The fashions of the hour are naturally suited to the active life that most ', women are leading, nnj all the Paris ' dressmakers have answered, the call for

practical styles. More than ever before have they turned their attention to the tailor suite that aTe indispensable to the woman who no longer- travels in automobiles. There is a decided preference for the short coat with exaggerated fullness over the hips. In fact, the distended hip line ie the keynote of the entire dress movement, and the short coat ie better suited to the short ekirt, giving a youthful appearance to the general costume. Thus the women of fifty "wear costumes that should be worn by girls of fifteen. There is a tendency, however, towards the lengthening of both coats and skirts. The coate of the late spring styles are much longer than those shown in February. OUR SKETCH. Our illustration represents a c-harming mortlorc taffetas frock, designed on one of those picturesque styles which bear no date, and can be worn on almost any occasion with an equal certainty of euacess. The full skirt represents most persuasively Fashion's latest decree, since it is gracefully ample, and is fur-

tlicrmorc provided with a crinoline petticoat in no way of extravagant proportions. Note the ''picot' , edgings to the flat flouncinss, the bodice, which buttons down the front, and the simple white organdy collar. Carried out in white taffetas, the picot trimmings in black, this would be a very effective frock for half-mourning. Or black taffetas and white trimmings would look well. HINTS. Petticoats play a very important role now. and silk jersey is popular both for street and evening wear. Evening petticoats are cruelly tempting, just clouds of chiffon and subtle hoops, wiring, flounces, and frills of lace. For a sports blouse make the cuffs and fichu either ecru or white orjran.ly. and wear it with a full circular skirt of taJi and white striped velours.