FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XXXI, Issue 65, 17 March 1900, Page 6 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

The pretty hat sketched above is so simple as to shape and equally so as to trimming: that at a first glance it does not sown worthy to rank as a novelty, but the materials of which it is made are really quite a revelation. The shape is composed of satin, exquisitely wired to give it sufficient solidity, and stitched by machine to keep it in accordance with the rage for stitching. At a distance it looks almost like rice straw. Round the tall crown a broad band of beaver velvet is arranged, and there are loops of the same at the left side, with a cluster

of velvet begonias. While the colour of the hat is a lovely rose pink, the flowers are of the natural reddishpink shade, and the beaver band is black, so that altogether a very pretty and pleasing combination is secured. Strange flowers still prevail, and we have lilies, edelweiss, gardenias, and as well the old-fashioned cottage-gar-den fibwerK, such as dahlias and hollyhocks. The newest rosette is composed of velvet, literally wound round and round until it achieves a huge size, and looks exactly like the real meaning of the word " chou '"—that is, a cabbage—as it is possible for anything in millinery to do.

The happy possessors of graceful, lissom figures are now able to make much " hay " while the eel-skin and fish-tail "sun" in modes is shining-, for though'this style has many weak points it certainly shows to advantage the outlines Mr Pecksniff describes as " graceful and correct," and is eminently becoming to those women whose mission in life is to look charming- and do nothing with all possible elegance. For practical, useful wear the eel-skin skirt, with its hampering flow of drapery round the feet, and fish-tail or fan-tail train behind is an impossibility. A charming model on these latter or dernier cri lines is illustrated in the Fig. The under skirt (with double flounce), under bodice, and sleeves are of aubergine velvet. The tunic is of very fine faced "pastel" cloth with scalloped ; edge, ..and edged

again with a narrow pa.stel and gold braid just scrolled at the point of each scallop. A narrow velvet twist encircles the waist, and is held at the back by a dull gold buckle. The skirt and bodice both fasten on the left side of the front of the gown. . •

Black cloth and white satin is one of- the smartest combinations for tailor-made gowns. Strips of cloth about an inch wide are stitched through one of the leading trimmings. The newest buttons are of cloth, with gold or silver rims.

The neat tailor-made gown for travelling- would look best, made in a fine summer cloth .or tweed, in a soft shade of grey, with the smartly-cut revers and collar of the coat in dark

oreen velvet. ~ The velvet rever3 and collar are laid over a second collar of plain white cloth. This jaunty little coat by the way, is made m quite a new shape, fastening over on one side, with three rows of fine tailor-stitch-ino- and finished just below'the waist, with small basques,, cut almost like pocket-flaps, and breaking the line of the figure very becomingly. The skirt fastens down the centre of the front, and is quite smooth and plain at the back. It is trimmed with waved lines of stitching, very prettily arranged, in the manner shown in the sketch.' The hat should be of chip, in a pretty shade of dark green, always a pleasant and restful colour for travelling. The trimming consists of black velvet marguerites, with draperies of. white tulle, leaf r shaped bows of.the same* edged ,wisi little gatherings of tulle, and white tulle strings tied, on one side, in the most becoming fashion possible.

"How is the newest skirt made?" is the question that is agitating our minds just now, and the only answer is: "In the-manuer which best be : comes us," for skirts are made in every' style, and every form of tunic finds sui exponent. The skirt with an absolutely plain back is fast losing favour. As for length, though for smart wear the long skirt is worn, the lined skirt, just oil' the ground, fitting well over the hips, with two pleats at the back,' is the only one for useful and practical wear. Some of the newest skirts are now knife - pleated towards' the knees, falling in soft folds around-the feet, 'if this obtains much, which we fancy it will, we shall probably drift into the kilted skirt which was worn long ago. There are many advantages admitted on behalf of the skirt of one deep kilt. It is artistic, smart, and becoming-, and is easily made, with, hardly any risk of proving amateurishlooking, as so many home-made skirts have a&trick of turning- out with their complicating gores. A popular skirt is the Trelawny. It has a narrow front gore and two side gores, with 3 series of graduated box-pleats, in :ttie back,' which are each cut separately, so that they are easily fitted at the waist and make a very fine, graceful sweep' at the bottom. This style is particularly good, for satin or heavy silks. Another style of skirt is made with a single boxnpleat, set smoothly] lat the back.

1 can tell you of heaps of styles of skirts in vogue, any of which will.be quite correct. Take the one illustrated —one favoured by Paqirin. This has the virtue of being- perfectly, smoothly

fitting over the hips, but. has at thes back a series of pleats which just'relieve all that is defective in the skirfc < that fits plainly all round, and which is decidedly unbecoming. This skirfc is. very elegant. The front and the1 sides are what we know already, but the back breadth is cut up into-a point,;or nng'le^ the exact point a little shortened, so as to leave material for a few little pleats; the fold down the middle of the back, breadth is, of course, on the cross.' The model is at; black peau-de-soie, with a waist-band of turquoise velvet. The bolero which crosses at the back is left over in front' and embroidered all over with jet and turquoise hand-work on a Briggs'' transfer pattern, the foundation being of peau-de-soie like the skirt. Underneath the bolero the bodice fits tightly, lace' filled into the nigh collar arid falling into a jabot in front. This is a very useful theatre and high evening; gown, ahd t wears well, as there is nothing* to get out of ox%der or tumbled about it. .."••'•.'.' v. v-

The growingl, girl of. fifteen is one that requires to be dressed rather care-•. fully in order to soften, the lines of her angular figure. ISfo tight bodices musfci be worn, but one that will tend to give the necessary fulness,, and the sketchy indicates precisely, the right lines on. which the dress should be made. The model was a bright shade of dark blue cloth, the skirt trimmed up the sides ; and round at the back with a mixed band in blue and gold. The slightlypouched bodice had a centre box-pleat, and the neat revers which formed a collar at the back Was on pinked out

white cloth with "belted vest of whitei'/' muslin., Noprettier style for a school-, girl's dress could be fashioned than this, and the revers might be made ol| some washing material such as linen or drill, and should be buttoned on beneath in order that they may be easily detachable.