GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 70, Issue 257, 17 August 1950, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

AMONG THE FLOWERS Written for the “Guardian” by A. F. MORGAN, N.D.H. (N.Z.I. F.R.I.H. (N.Z.). The question is often asked as to how late in the season tree and shrub planting can still be carried out with safety. A lot depends on the type of shrub or tree to he planted, some kinds commencing growth much earlier in the season than others, and again a lot depends on the weather conditions prevailing- at the moment. Early planting, that is as early in the season as possible, is to be preferred in this district particularly because of the drying north-west winds which can he expected in early spring. A tree or shrub planted late, and breaking into leaf before it has had time to establish a sufficient root system, suffers a considerable loss of moisture under north-west winds, moisture which cannot in many cases be replaced by the struggling root system, and the tree often dies. The transpiration of moisture from a leaf surface is very considei’able under normal conditions, hut is greatly accelerated when the plant is exposed to drying winds and unless the rate of moisture loss can he met by the supply from below ground the leaf structure collapses and unless revived within a short time will die altogether. Roots have to he produced when a tree is transplanted, and from these the fine, thread-like root hairs which are the moisture gatherers for plant life. They must he in close contact with the moist soil particles before they can do their important work of absorbing soil moisture, and are very easily destroyed. It is because of this that firm planting is essential, firstly to have the soil in close contact with the roots, and secondly to prevent movement of the newly-planted tree under windy conditions; staking may he necessary as a further precaution, because any move, ment of the top growth will tend to rupture a large proportion of the root, hairs and reduce the flow of sap to the leaves. Conditions at the moment, and it would be safe to say for the remainder of the month, are still very good for the safe planting of most trees and shrubs, hut beyond that time it becomes very uncertain.

Lawns Preparations should be in hand now for the sowing of spring lawns where this work was unable to be carried out in the autumn. Autumn sowing is much -to be preferred, but given good preparation of the soil now, plus good seed, there is no reason why lawns sown at the end of this month, or if we are still having heavy frosts, early in September, should not he successful. Preparation of the area should consist of forking to a fine tilth (not too deep) then firming and levelling until an opportune time for sowing. The roller should not be used if the soil is lat all sticky, in fact it should not he worked at all if in this condition. Providing soil conditions are right a more firm and level surface can he obtained by tramping and raking, and repeating this several times, than by using a roller. It is a slower process, but by doing this, all the little weak spots are found out, giving a better surface. The grass seed mixture should consist of two parts Chewipgs Fescue to one part certified Browntop. Crested Dogstail, one part, can he added if the position is dry. Sow the mixture at the rate of loz to each square yard, and with it at the same rate, a mixture of equal parts sulphate of ammonia and superphosphate. If the area is a large one it is better to sow half the quantity of seed and fertiliser in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction across the area. A light raking, preferably in opposite directions across the plot is the final operation and providing the soil has properly firmed and levelled it is quite unnecessary to use a roller.

Vegetables and Fruit

No vegetable is more highly prized for delicacy of flavour than asparagus, and it has the advantage of producing its crop early in the season when other vegetables are scarce. A well prepared bed will last for many years. The plants must have a well-drained soil of a sandy nature if possible. If the soil is heavy it may he necessary to raise the bed above the surrounding ground. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot for the bed, thoroughly trench the soil to a depth of two feet, and add plenty of well-decayed manure. If the soil is heavy open it up with grit or coarse sand. Beds five feet wide will hold three rows. Space the crowns 18 inches apart and cover them with three to four inches of 'soil. As the plants have fleshy roots, the crowns are best planted in the spring, just as growth- is starting. Two-year-old crowns are best. For the first year do not cut the crop, but feed the plants liberally with blood and bone manure to build up the crowns. During the cutting (season apply liquid manure tAvice a Aveek and a light dressing of salt once a month. On established beds, cutting should last from six to eight Aveeks, after which the crowns should he allowed to groAv on and build up those for next season.

In summer asparagus must not he alloAved to suffer for the want of water, and at this time the bed Avill benefit from a dressing of partly decayed organic manure. In January dress the bed Avith nitrate of soda, loz to each square yard. In autumn cut the tops off before the seeds have time to fall.

Varieties recommended are Connover’s Colossal, Mary Washington and Martha Washington.

Root crops can he lifted and stored In boxes of sand, placed on the cold side of the garden, if it is desired to dig over the ground they are occupying in preparation for the new Reason’s crops.