GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 68, Issue 145, 1 April 1948, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

Among the Flowers

(Written for the "Guardian” by A. F. MORGAN, F.R.1.H., N.Zj

Where hormone weed-killers were used on lawns some time ago, hare patches may now be visible as the result of the larger flat weeds being killed out. These areas should now be lightly forked up and re-sown with a suitable grass-seed mixture, which in this district consists of 2 parts chewing’s fescue to 1 part browntop. Using the same mixture, new lawns should be sown without delay as the weather may break soon. It is the usual practice to sow grass-seed for ordinary lawns at the rate of 1 ounce to each square yard of ground, and to ensure even spreading of the seed it pays to divide tlie*area olf into strips and sow the correct amount to each portion of ground. Fertiliser should be applied immediately before or after the seed, and the surface lightly vaked to complete the job. Blood and bone, or a mixture of equal parts superphosphate and sulphate of ammonia, are both excellent when sowing new lawns, and, are applied at the rate of 1 ounce per square yard. Even spreading of the fertiliser is also important but by using the same method as for the seed it will not be difficult. On established lawns a dressing of 3 parts sulphate of ammonia, 1 part superphosphate and 1 part sulphate of iron at the rate of 1 ounce of the mixture per square yard, is very beneficial at this time of the year. Sulphate of iron istains clothing very badly and therefore has to be used with care. . If it is desired to “proof” a newly sown lawn against the attacks of grass grub this can be done by incorporating llozs of arsenate of lead powder per square yard, with the loose surface soil before the seed is sown. This will keep the ground free‘of grubs for up to six years. The grass caterpillar, or porina grub, feeds on the surface of the lawn at night time and can also ruin a lawn in a very short time. The caterpillars when fully grown may be up to three inches long, and the tunnels, the size of a lead pencil, which they leave on the surface arfe characteristic. A poison bait is necessary for this pest and sufficient to treat IGO square yards of lawn can be made up as follows: 21bs of bran mixed with loz of paris green or %ozs of arsenate of lead. The mixture should be moistened until crumbly and broadcast over the infested area, during the evening, when, the weather is fine.

April is a busy month for the home gardener who wishes to have a good display of flowers next spring and early summer. Bulb planting, and thi,s includes all the popular kinds such as tulips, narcissi, hyacinths', ranunculus, anemones, crocus, iris, etc., should be completed as soon as possible. In addition to these, the planting out of wallflower, Canterbury bells, sweet william, Iceland poppies, forget-me-nots, violas, pansies, beauty stocks, polyanthus, primulas, carnations, daisies, aquilegias, hollyhocks, and lupins should all be done during April. Old clumps of polyanthus can be broken* up now and so planted where they are to flower; the best blooms are, however, produced on seedling plants (sown last October) and these should now be planted out where to flower in well enriched ground. Where a cold frame is available it is still not too late to put in cuttings of many popular garden plants including pentstemons, geraniums, lavender, hydrangea, fuchsia, carnations, pansies, violas and marguerites. Gladioli corms should continue to be lifted as the foliage turns coltiur. Lily planting should be done during this month in ground which has been thoroughly and deeply cultivated, and to which has been added plenty of compost or leafmould. The bulbs should always be planted on, and surrounded Avith sand.

Many perennial plants of the earlier kinds are better broken np and replanted at this time of the year, rather than left until winter or early spring. They have a better chance of •re-establishing themsevles before the cold weather and there is less chance of the work being overlooked if left until spring. Plants in this category include paeonies, trollius, Oriental poppies, delphiniums, doronicums, aquilegias, eclieverias, etc.

Vegetable Garden

Sturdy young plants of spring cabbage, preferably of the variety “Flower of Spring,” can be planted out during April and are excellent for green vegetables. Well manured ground is essential, in fact as much compost or farmyard manure as possible should be incorporated in ground for. growing spring cabbage. If manure of some kind is not available, use a mixture of 2 parts blood and bone and 1 part superphosphate at the rate of 6ozs per square yard and worked into the surface before planting. Choose if possible a warm sheltered position, well drained, and where the plants will receive the maximum of sunshine. Twelve inches apart each way is sufficient space for planting spring cab-. If there is a danger of early frosts, pumpkins and marrows should be harvested without delay. A dry, well ventilated, frost-proof shed is the best place to store the fruits. Those intended for long storage should be fully mature, the skin well hardened and in such a condition that it cannot be penetrated with the thumb nail. All top growth on the asparagus bed should be left undisturbed until it has turned brown., As long as the tops remain green they are manufacturing and sending good down to the crowns for next season’s crop. When cut, the top growth should be burned and the ashes spread back over the bed.

Root crops such as carrots, parsnips, swedes and beetroot are best left in the ground, and. used as . required through the winter provided . the ground is reasonably well drained. The flavour of parsnips and swedes, in particular is improved by the action of frost.

Silver beet can be sown, also prickly spinach for winter, and perpetual for next summer.

Areas from which crops have been taken, if not required for successional plantings, should be lightly dug over and sown in a green manure crop of lupins or barley.