GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 68, Issue 134, 18 March 1948, Page 2

GARDEN TOPICS

Among the Flowers

(Written for tlio "Guardian’' by A. F. MORGAN. F.R.i.H., N.Z.). Planning for spring and early summer displays next season should be the main consideration of the homo gardener now, who wishes to have a bright display throughout the growing period, in the average home garden where space for flowering plants is usually limited, it pays to grow a wide range of plants which flower at different seasons of the year, rather than use large quantities of annuals to fill the beds and borders. The seasonal replacement of these is expensive, and the garden is usually lacking in interest once they have finished, unless replacements are made immediately for later displays. For small beds this system of planting is very good, but for the home gardener who has large borders to fill, the main planting of such areas should consist of perennial plants, bulbs, conns, and tubers, and annuals used merely to supplement the main planting and fill gaps during the summer where necessary. This type of border is known as the “mixed flower border” and if a little thought is given to the planning and placing of the plant material used, it can be most interesting and colourful from early spring until late autumn. Every kind of perennial plant which is fancied is eligible for such a border, but it is necessary to know something of the flowering period and the height,of everything used so that continuity of flower and a well balanced effect can be achieved.

As a general rule keep the taller and later flowering subjects such as Michaelmas daisies, rudbeckias, lieleniums, golden rods, etc., toward the back of the border and grade down to the lower growing" material at the front, but not in too stiff a line. Plant in such a way that as each group .of plants goes over there is something next door, or in front, or planted through such a group, to carry on the show. For example, one may have a group of aquilegias at the front of the border, and in spring they will make an excellent show; but if something is not done will also leave a bare patch for the rest of the summer. _ In this case it is necessary to plant in a few annuals among the aquilegias, or one could have already planted lilies to take their place or even gladiolus. This is only one example of the methods used to ensure a long flowering period from a given piece of ground. It is a fascinating branch of gardening enabling the keen gardener to use a wide variety of plants, with which he must have an intimate knowledge. The main advantage of such a border, however, is that the large majority of the material used is perennial in nature and needs only dividing every three or four years to keep up the displays. Fate autumn is the best time to plant the mixed flower border and wide selections are listed in most catalogues.

The planting of spring flowering bulbs can, be continued this month as ground becomes available. Ranunculuses planted now make a very bright display next October and arc excellent for cut flower. To be grown successfully they must have a well drained position, and a soil well enriched with compost or well decayed manure. The tubers are best soaked for 12 hours before being planted, and should then be put out 4-6 inches apart and two inches deep, .with the claws of the roots pointing downward. Other bulbs and conns for planting this month could include anemones, hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, crocuses, freesias, sparaxis, habianas, ixias, and grape hyacinths. Many garden plants can still be pro.pagated from cuttings, but a cold frame will lie a great advantage from now on. ! Pansies, violas, carnations, geraniums, hydrangeas and fuchsias should root in from two to three weeks if a cold frame is used. Carnation “layers” which were pegged down in December-January should be well established now, and can he severed from the parent plant and planted into the border where they are to flower n'fext year.

Lilies, with the exception of the Christmas lily, can be lifted and replanted as the top growth starts to turn yellow. They do not require replanting every year, in fact this is a disadvantage, but when the clumps are becoming overcrowded say after three or four years it is just as tvell to lift and divide them up. Opportunity can be taken to propagate any particular one when the bulbs are lifted. This can be done by removing the outer two or three layers of “scales” from the old bulb before it is replanted. Each scale is capable of producing one or more young bulbs and can be induced to do so by planting the scales in boxes of fine sand with just the tip of the scale above the surface. Water the boxes well and keep them in a light frost-proof shed. Tiny new bulbs the size of a pin’s head are produced at the base of each scale within a month or so, but they should be left undisturbed until late spring, and after top growth has been produced the new bulb which will then be the size of a large pea can be separated from the scale and planted out in a corner of the garden to be grown on. They should flower in two to three years. Chrysanthemums in pots or tins should be taken under cover as the buds open and will benefit from weekly applications of liquid manure. Feeding can of course be overdone and may cause the immature bud to decay. If using liquid animal manure water it down until it is the colour of weak tea and never apply liquid manure to dry pots or tins.

Vegetable Carden

The important job of sowing a green manure crop should be kept in mind, and as areas become vacant they can i)c forked over and either blue lupins or barley sown immediately. Also in connection with this, all disease-free refuse from the vegetable plot should he utilised on the compost heap. The building up of the organic matter in ground used for vegetables is of the first importance and composting and green manuring are the cheapest and easiest methods of doing this.

Supplies of vegetables in early spring can be assured by sowing and planting now: Flower of Spring cabbage, Cos improved or Cos white, Winter Market or Neapolitan lettuce, cauliflower All Season, or Walchern, and Giant prickly spinach or perpetual spinach. It is important, with all of these to have well-established plants before the cold Aveather sots in, and choose the most sheltered, best drained, and warmest part of the garden for growing them on. After digging, and before planting, a mixture of two parts blood and bone manure and one part superphosphate should bp applied at

the rate of Gozs per square yard and worked into the top soil. A top dressing of agricultural lime, .’,lb per square yard would keep the soil in good condition. If, during July, the plants do not. appear to be making satisfactory growth, a “pinch" ol nitrate of soda placed as near the root as practicable, and worked into the soil, will stimulate growth and assist maturity. Continue spraying all members or the cabbage tribe with arsenate oi lead to control white butterfly and diamond-backed moth caterpillars.