Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK.

(Written for the “ Guardian ” by W. B. Brookie, N.D.H., N.Z.)

chrysanthemums in pots. Japanese chrysanthemums will now be ready for their final shift into 8 oc 10-inch pots or into tins or boxes dr similar dimension's. Twelve-inch pots can be used to accommodate two or

three plants. These latter make very handsome specimens and by proper training will carry nine largo blooms. The soil to ho used for the final potting should be rough and lumpy in composition, the turf being broken into pieces about the size of a walnut or oven a little larger. A good compost consists of 4 parts turf. 1 part leaf-mould, and well decayed horse manure in equal proportions and 1 part coarse river sand. Add some wood ashes, mortar rubble and about a six inch potful of soot to each barrowload of the mixture.

Give the pots good drainage of crocks

and cover .the drainage material with lumps of fibrous turf from which the dust has been shaken.

The plants which will be in 5 or flinch pots should be moist at the time of their final potting. Bury the old ball half an inch below the surface, leaving at least one and a half inches of space from the rim of the pot for later top-dressing. Pot very firmly and arrange the pots side by side in a sunny sheltered place in the open air. Do not water the plants straight away but give them frequent syringyig overhead. Two or three days after potting give them a thorough soaking. About a. week or so after potting transfer them all to their summer quarters when they should ho watered again. Place the pots in rows 4 to 6 feet apart and *> feet apart in the rows. To discourage worms from entering the pots through the drainage holes stand them on a bed of rough cinders or upon wooden boards. Two wires stretched tightly along the rows and attached firmly to stout posts will be found best for tying the stakes to and will keep the plants from being blown over.

If the plants have not been pinched select three strong shoots when they make their natural break and tie these frequently to the stakes. Water carefully and thoroughly and only when a plant actually requires it.

When plenty of roots have formed in the pots about the end of January give weak liquid manure with some soot in it once or twice a week increas- / ing the strength, as the season advances. From the beginning of Febs ruiryto the flowering period top-dress thinly with a mixture of 1 part fibrous turf," 1 part horse droppings, with a litle soot and superphosphate mixed with it. Water this in with a rose can.

For most varieties the second crown buds should he secured about the second and third week in February. All lateral growth below these flower bud? must be pinched out. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Plant varieties of Salvia- Aplendens. The variety Harbinger grows only lb inches high and produces a profusion of bright scarlet flowers about a month earlier than either Bonfire or Fireball, thus escaping the danger from early frost to which the latter two varieties are sometimes exposed. Zirnias, African and French marigolds, petunias, tagetes, heliotrope zonal geraniums and indeed all kinds of tender bedding plants can also be planted out. No time should ho lost now in getting them in. Earlier planted antirrhinums, godetias, clack ia, etc. should be putting on good growth. Hoe over the beds occasionally and when necessary give them a good watering. . . Suitable plants for dry positions include geraniums, dia-nthus, petunias, aretotis and most of. the South African composites', nasturtium and alyssum. Very sandy soil for these should ne enriched with blood and bone manure well forked in before planting. Annuals that wqre sown in the open border should lie well thinned so that the remaining plants will be allowed to make sturdy growth. , Lilium giganteum is growing rapidly. Those forming flower spikes will lie improved in growth if they are given a, thick mulch of mildly rotted cow manure and watered regularly. Gladioli can still be planted for late blooming. . . Give sweet peas some liquid manure after the first flowers aro picked. Go not allow them to go to seed and Aiey will have a longer period of flowering besides giving blooms of better qualify, glee that, they do not suffer from 'Slyness at the roots. All tall growing perennials should ue staked and tied up at once if this has not already been done. Thin out ail weak growths. Keep the lioe going frequently among the herbaceous plants to destroy weeds and conserve moisture in the soil. It is an easy matter to kill weeds when they are small and if a- mulch of loose soil is maintained on the surface by frequent hoeing weeds will soon be almost entirely eliminated. If greenfly puts in an appearance on roses spray with Blackleaf -!0, oiiC teaspoonful to a gallon of water. Keep the .beds well cultivated and fork in a dressing of blood and bone. Examine the tics on standard roses and loosen them if they are cutting into the stem. Remove seed pods lroin Rhododendrons and lilacs to ensure the formation of flower buds for next year. Do not cultivate too deeply around these plants. The Rhododendrons will be greatly benefited it they are given a deep mulch of rotted leaves. The fuchsia is one of the best plants for giving continuous bloom tinougn the summer and autumn. It- will Mower profusely in a sunny position, and it will also brighten shady places where few other bedding plants will flower. The best display is obtained from plants that have been grown in pots for a year, either as standards oi pyramids, 'in the late- autumn they should he lifted and potted up Keep them to a- single stem by pulling oil any underground shoots. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Prepare trenches for celery. The tee noli is made 21 inches wide and should not be too deep, nine inches being sufficient. Unless the soil is coop it will be necessary to remove some of the poor soil from the* bottom and replace with top soil. Celery is a gross feeder, and to obtain long succulent sticks the soil for them should be enriched with a liberal amount of good

farmyard manure. In making tlie trench tlite soil taken out is mounded neatly on each side. If the celery plants are not to be put in straight away the manured soil at the bottom of the trench should be forked over frequently. This will put it in splendid condition for planting when the plants become available. In a trench of this width the plants can bo put out in a double row, spacing 'he plants alternatively one loot apart. Cauliflowers should have ample sup plies of water. A teaspoonful of nitrate of soda scattered round each plant and watered in will bring about quicß growth. As the curds show break some of the leaves orcr them to shade them from the sun.

Continue to make sowings of beet, silver beet, lettuce, spinach and peas. Runner beans and marrows and pumpkins should be sown "without further "delay. These plants require to be almost fully grown in the height of summer to give a maximum crop. Plant nuiincrop potatoes in freshlydug soil. Spread a. little decayed manure beneath the sets. Early varieties should he earthed up by drawing the soil, up to them from between the drills with a draw lioe. Remove all flowering stems from rhubarb as they weaken the plants if allowed to grow.

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AG19381126.2.13

Bibliographic details

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 59, Issue 40, 26 November 1938, Page 3

Word Count
1,280

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 59, Issue 40, 26 November 1938, Page 3

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 59, Issue 40, 26 November 1938, Page 3