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THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK.

(Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.)

THE GREENHOUSE.

Though Calceolarias have just finished blooming it will be necessary to sow seeds immediately for next season’s display. The seed is very minute and must be sown in sandy soil with the utmost care. Keep the seedlings growing under very cool conditions and if there is any difficulty in growing the plants once they are pricked off. in boxes, try placing a layer of coarse gravel on top of the soil as soon as they have made two pairs of leaves. This will keep the top soil Irom developing the slime fungus and keep the necks of the plants from holding excessive moisture.

Pot out Begonias as they require shifting and if being grown on a large scale it is best to spend a few shillings on a sulphur vapouriser, a machine that distributes flowers of sulphur in a very fine state and very efficient in keeping down attacks of mite. Mite causes browning and crippling of the foliage and if the attacks are bad, the plants become blind.

Sow seeds of cinerarias and pot on Chrysanthemums inti) Their final pots.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Lilium candidum should be planted as soon as the flowers hare died down ; this lily makes its leafy growth after the flowers have finished and any shifting should be carried out as speedily as possible. Another bulb that should be planted immediately is the autumn crocus (colchicum) for it will not be long before the bulbs start to send up their flower spikes. This crocus develops its leaves after the flowers have died down. It is a bulb that does not mind being planted unuer trees, and in woodlands it finds its best setting. Perhaps the earliest of spring bulbs to be planted is the- Grape Hyacinth. Its leaves are no sooner dead tiffin it starts to grow a fresh supply and at the same time make new roots. Headers intending to shift the bulbs should do. so without delay. Plant them in groups among spring flowering shrubs and they will give of their best. This bulb does not mini? poor and dry soil conditions provided it is planted to a ! depth of fully six inches. Many herbaceous plants have grown apace uring the holidays and much tying and staking will now he necessary. Above all things, hide the stakes as much as possible. If gypsophilas and perennial scabious are not growing as they should, try giving them a dressing of lime. Both are lime-lovers and usually take a year to get over the shock of being moved. Bo not neglect to sow seeds of all types of perennials and bi-ennials. They then make good plants tor setting out in the autumn or early next spring. It is a waste of time to sow these two; types of plants in spring and expect flowers the same season.

LAYER CARNATIONS. There is nothing difficult in layering carnations and a start can be made with the work as soon as the plants have finished blooming. Take a little of the soil: away from round each plant and work into the lower soil some sharp sand. Into this may be pegged down ) all available healthy shoots. Each shoot should be prepared by removing some of the lower leaves and making a cut with a. sharp knife half way through and in and upward and slanting direction. Turn the shoo‘d slightly upwards so that the. tongue made by the cut can be pushed down carefully into the sandy soil. Good pegs can be pushed down carefully into the sandy soil. Good pegs can be quickly made from pieces of galvanisd wire. Replace some of the top soil and give the layers a thorough watering. It will not be long before they are rooted and can be severed from the parent plant.

THE TREE MARIGOLD. Obtain seeds of the tree marigold and sow them immediately. When the seedlings are three inches high place three in each nine-inch pot or hall petrol tin and stand them outside along w'ithi the large chrysanthemums. Give each a separate stake and they will quickly- furnish up and make splendid specimens. When frosts commence take the pots and tins into the shelter of a porch or cool greenhouse Avhere the plants will quickly come into bloom and provide a Avealth of cut bloom during the whole of the Avinter. These plants grow to a height of four to five feet and are covered with floAA r efs the size and colour of the ordinary French Marigold. For floral work they are much in demand. SHRU BS. Many shrubs such as rhododendrons, azaleas, forsytliias, etc., are quite easily propagated by choosing good young branches and pegging them firmly into the soil. A little of the bark on the loAver side of each branch can be cut away to encourage root formation. Clematis do better on their own roots and are quite easily propagated by the above method. Sometimes the above plants take more than one year to root ,but provided the layers are never allowed to suffer from waiit of moist soil about them they will give a good return of young vigorous plants.

TOMATOES. ' Keep tomatoes tied up to their supports and pinch out all side shoots. Over-watering and sptashlng water on the- plants will spread the disease known as tomato "buck-eye” winch shows as hard decayed patches on the surface and blossom end of the fruits. New virus diseases of the are being met with in England and Scotland and it is suspected that the virus is introduced by dropping cigarette butts in the glass houses. The tobacco in the butts being of foreign origin is supposed to harbour the virus and as both the tobacco plant and the tomato plant belong to the same family, infection by the agency of greenfly is vei y easy. Mildew and leaf blight will soon be making their appearance and the best spray to use is Bordeaux Mixtuie at the rate of one pound of Bordeaux to fifteen gallons of water. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Though at the present time there is a good supply of vegetables ih most gardens, it must not be lost sight of that continuity of supply is the chief aim in all good gardens. To carry this

out, further sowings of salad crops should be made. Bear in mind that radish Quickly bolts to seed in hot dry ground and for summer sowings a cofli soil should be chosen. The same is true where lettuce- is concerned. iPuddling the roots of 'winter green crops prior to planting will help them in hot weather. The puddle can he made of equal parts of coav manure, clay and soot mixed with water to a thick paste. If trenches have not yet been prepared for celery, choose a piece of land just vacated by a crop of peas. If it is intended to save tubers for exhibition from early varieties of potatoes, the tubers should be carefully dug, washed and, then dried in a cool shed. Do not let the light strike the tubers and as soon as they are perfectly dry, wrap each in tissue paper and store in a dark place. Look them over from time to time in case of damage by insects.

For autumn picking only the dwarf varieties of peas should he sowii and these should be got into the ground as soon as possible. Stake runner beans and spray the under-sides of the foliage .with clear water to prevent attacks from red spiders.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AG19380122.2.11

Bibliographic details

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 58, Issue 87, 22 January 1938, Page 3

Word Count
1,269

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 58, Issue 87, 22 January 1938, Page 3

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 58, Issue 87, 22 January 1938, Page 3