THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 236, 18 July 1936, Page 3

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPheuson, N.D.H.j N.Z.)

Top’s Winter Improved is a winter rhubarb at present in full growth, but which will not last till the main summer supply comes into leaf, lo tide over the gap, place a lew boxes or barrels over some large established crowns of the latter type and lorce them gently by packing fresh manure round and on top of the coverings. Asparagus beds need attention by removing any fallen seed from last season and top-dressing the beds with a two inch layer of rotted strawy manure. Broad beans and early peas may be sown, but much depends on the weather as to whether the latter will be a complete success. Shallots must be planted four to six inches apart and twelve inches between the rows. Press the bulbs to half their depth into the soil. Garlic can be treated in a similar manner. Late cuttings of gooseberries and currants may still be planted, but the percentage of struck cuttings will be less than those inserted .in the autumn. . Finish off the pruning of fruit trees and spray all trees with an oil emulsion at winter strength. Any trees making excessive top-growth should be root pruned during the next ten days. Heavy frosts of late have had the tendency to lift small plants out of the ground. This is especially so with jilpines and newly planted herbaceous subjects. Watch Delphiniums and protect the crowns from slugs by scattering fresh wood aches lightly over the crowns. Lily of the Valley beds can be cleaned of weeds and given a very light top-dressing of well-rotted cow or sheep manure. Basic slag makes a good lasting manure for household lawns if applied at the rate of two to three ounces to the square yard. ‘ Look over all. shrub borders. Do not prune subjects that bloom on young wood produced last summer until they have finished their flowering. Blood and bone meal is ail excellent manure for all shrub borders. Hurry on the work of transplanting trees, shrubs, hedge plants, and roses. Pruning Greenhouse Climbers. The following remarks on the pruning of greenhouse climbers are applicable to the same plants when grown outside. It is rather distressing at times to see greenhouses with well furnished benches, but an utter disregard given to the furnishing of the roof. When properly grown, these climbers are an additional attraction and often help in providing the necessary shade during a very hot summer. First in hardiness come the fuchsias with their masses of bloom providing a wealth of colour throughout seven months of the year. It they have been planted in the soil under the benches, the plants make splendid rods similar in many respects to a. grape vine. .Pruning is carried out when severe frosts have passed, by spurring all • side shoots back to two eyes, and retying the main rods. It is often necessary to paint the rods with a soft-soap and nicotine solution a week after pruning in order to kill eggs of red spider and mealy bug. Give the plants some manure by forking in some: bone meal round the roots.

Several species of asparagus are useful for roof work, but care should be taken to see that the shoots do not become a tangled mat. Have some very thin wires up which the strongest shoots can be trained. Pruning asparagus is usually done by the women-foik when requiring table decorations, but care should be exercised to see that only mature trailers are removed. The plants, if grown in pots should be topdressed in early spring or even repotted where they stand. When grown against walls in the open the plants require a good mulch of rotted manure plus just the slightest pinch or salt to well-established specimens. Never let the roots become dry in the summer.

Next we have the abutilons which are splendid for autumn and winter dowering. In spring-time give the plants a good cutting back to produce plenty of new wood before the end of the summer. Spread out the branches to cover as much space as possible. In large greenhouses the bouganvillea is a useful climber, but requires cutting back to within an eye of the main stems or rods in very early spring. Keep several rods securely tied to the roof and cut off all weak growths arising from the base. Plumbago capensis wits its heads of clear pale blue flowers, blooms ail the year round. Cut out old stems and encourage the young growth as spring approaches. Hoy a carnosa is the wax-plant and a splendid subject for the greenhouse wall. Train out as many shoots as possible, spacing them about one foot apart. It does not require much pruning except when excessive and sappy growth has to be cut back to w itliin two inches of the main stems. Even the cool greenhouse will, of space is available, grow the Dutchman’s pipes (Aristolochia). Keep the main shoots trained up stout wires and prune back the side growths in early spring. The plants are best grown in large pots. Against the back wall of lean-to houses a space can be found for dwaif types of Acacias, which if kept trained against the walls will quickly cover them and provide blooms out of season. The best for this purpose are A’s leprosa, riceana, dealbata, baileyana, and longifolia. Lapagerias with their beautiful waxy white and rose-coloured tubular flowers are essentially good greenhouse plants and when grown in the open require root-conditions similar to Rhododendrons and their foliage partly shaded from the burning summer sun. They require practically no pruning. Passifloras (passion-flowers) are rampant growers and all old trailers should be cut out in early spring. Do not let the trailers overcrowd, and confine the roots in order to force the plants into flower. Lonicera Hildebrandiana is an enormous flowered honeysuckle with bright reddish-huff flowers sweetly scented.

The only pruning it requires is to thin out weak shoots. Mandevilla suaveolens with its sweet scented, snow-white, trumpet-shaped flowers requires only the thin weakly shoots taken out. Neglect to prune greenhouse climbers leads to the formation of hiding and breeding places for insect pests. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN For Eariy Seed-Raising Use a Hot-Bed Amateur growers who go to the trouble of preparing a hot-bed for raising their early batches of seed have no difficulty in supplying the garden with plenty of young lettuce and cabbage plants immediately the soil is warm enough in early spring to set about lining them out. A hot-bed saves endless trouble, the seedlings raised are always well-root-ed and receive little or no shock on being transplanted. Furthermore, by regulation of the ventilation in the frame placed over the. hot-bed and by further regulation of the heat in the hot-bed itself, seedlings can be either hurried on or left to grow quietly away to be ready at the appointed time.

Secure a supply of fresh strawy manure immediately and keep turning it until all the rank heat has been given off. If too fresh it is liable to fire again once it is packed down into place and to prevent such occurring a good plan is to mix some of this past autumn's leaves thoroughly through the whole heap. It is really surprising how this addition of leaves tends to keep a balanced temperature. Leaves by themselves do not produce enough heat at the beginning of the season to warrant their use as a hotbed, but if some freshly cut green grass were mixed in equal quantities through the leaves one can produce a very good heating medium which will go a long way to solve the difficulty should fresh strawy manure not be available. Pack the manure into a rectangular heap, tramping and packing it evenly till a height of three feet is reached. The length and width of the heap will vary according to the size of frame being used, but whatever the size of the frame see that the manure is fully a foot wider on either side, otherwise the heat will quickly be lost from all round the sides of the frame.

Smooth over the area inside the frame and place some very sweet ancl well worked soil on top to a depth of six to nine inches. On this at one end can be sown small rows of early radishes and carrots, while onions, cabbages, and lettuces can be sown in shallow boxes ancl placed at the other end.

The reason for sowing these latter vegetables in boxes is in order that the plants may be easily handled and transferred to a cold frame for hardening off prior to planting. This leaves space in the frame for planting out lettuce which will always give a good return and come to maturity'when this salad vegetable is very scarce. The most important point to remember in handling a hot-bed and frame is that of ventilation. No plant will grow in a stuffy atmosphere and air must be admitted regularly each day but in quantities and at such times as the weather permits. Sometimes the merest splinter of wood under one end is sufficient ventilation, especially on a very bleak day, while a good four inch block of wood may be necessary the following day on account of increased rise in outside temperatures plus a bright sun for several hours. In the early part of the season all frames should be covered with some scrim or canvas material at nights to prevent frosts reducing the temperature below the safety point, but be sure and see that all such coverings are removed in the day-time.