THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 124, 7 March 1936, Page 3

THE GARDEN

THE GREENHOUSE. THE BUSY SEASON STARTS. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPhehson, N.D.H., N.Z.) From now on there is much to lie done ill the greenhouse and nursery. Space both under glass and in frames will soon be fully taxed to hold boxes of various cuttings which must be sheltered during winter months. The most important lot of cuttings to be made and placed ill boxes of sandy soil are the geraniums. See that the soil is well firmed in each box and do not damage the cuttings when pressing the soil round them. Then to lovers of bright foliage, time must be found to insert cuttings of the highly coloured Inseiles, foliage plants so useful for ribbon borders and edging of beds. Treat them in a manner similar to geraniums, but instead of standing the boxes on a gravel pat till frosts put in an appearance, they are best placed immediately in the shelter of a frame or cool greenhouse. , Gradually harden off Myosotis (ior-get-ma-nots) by standing the boxes outside in a reasonably shaded position, but free from over-hanging trees which exclude top light. A few clumps of fibrous rooted Begonias must be lifted from outside> and notted up for the winter. It these are kept cool and slightly moist they We over the winter and be reach to take cuttings from in early The cuttings root very readily m of sandy soil if given a little heat. Cineraries can be potted on as they grow. Spraying with arsenate of lead is still necessary to keep down ‘Attacks -nternillars. The caterpillai ol the white butterfly has already °uii “ happy feeding ground on these plants, so more trouble is in store for growers next year. Bulbs in Bowls. When properly grown there is a decided charm about bulbs giown bowls, more especially smee they come into bloom before the gene al run oi outside spring flowering su , S® , ‘ for that reason alone are most welcome. • Three things are essential to suctxs - Firstly the choice of the bowl, .secondly, the choice of the bulbs, and tin idly, the actual cultivation or attention dmin<r the growing period. Ihe bo\vi has been mentioned first m old ( avoid that pitfall of clashing colon s. Whether it be Tulips, Crocus Hyacinth, or Narcissi, the colour ol the bowl must never be such that it this ts "Tt the colour oi the flowers growing above it. Green forms a fitting colour for the base of any flower, while a grey bowl will suit say pink 1 ul| l )h » and a blue bowl yellow Crocusscs <> wlnie Hyacinths. The bowls should be •dazed, not porous, and about me or six inches deep. Secondly comes the choice of the bulbs No v hat tvpe, they must be extra laigc and liriii. for it is useless going to all the trouble it only poor and small bulbs are available. When purchasing tell the seed-merchant what they are for and he will pick out the right type for the wo k. , , ~, Bulo fibres may be purchased at the same time, everything is then m ness to proceed with the work. Ihe fibre is usually very dry on being received and must be thoroughly soaked and left to stand for a day so that when a handful is taken up and tight y squeezed only one or two drops of water will come out. Through; the fibre will be found lumps of charcoal and a few pieces can be placed m the bottom of the bowls for drainage. Next fill the bowls to half their depth with fibre, but do not press it too firmly, sit the bulbs oil this, spacing them fairly close together, almost touching as a matter of fact, and linallv fill i" with more fibre till the rim of the bowl is reached. The noses of all bulbs should, when the work of filling in is finished, be just level with the surface. . No matter how thoroughly the preceding work is carried out, failure .will result if the bowls are not stood in a dark airy place for some six weeks. In a hot cupboard did you say? Never. For this is the surest way to force ]iromature growth and cause disappointment. Out in a dark shed or cellar, will do, but watch that rats do not cat the bulbs, especially those of tulips. Once a week or so examine the bowls to see if the fibre is dry, and if so, plunge them into a bucket of lukewarm water, completely submerging the bowls. , ~ , , When the fibre is well soaked, remove the bowls and tip out all excess water. This may seem difficult on account of the fibre being liable to drop out, but is really quite easy to do it the hand is spread out over the fibre and held in position till the water *has drained away. . The reason for storing m the daik is to make tbe bulbs root readily, for it is onlv to be expected that badly rooted bulbs will not be able to support anything in the nature of good blooms. When the bulbs have made shoots an inch long they may be taken into the house and gradually brought to the li.dit It takes about three to loin days 'for the shoots to green up properJ "' From then on growth will ho rapid and care is necessary to see that the bowls are kept turned to give each side the maximum amount of light c o , " l,l « through the window. Plenty ol 1g t prevents the foliage and lower spikes becoming weak and spindly, while■ another precaution, that of gmiidng, against frost, is best carried out by lemoviim the bowls to the centre o the room during the frosty nights, returning them to the window about miclm Bowls, bulbs, and fibre are comparatively cheap and readers should give the cultivation of bulbs by the above method a trial.

Nursery and Reserve GarcJan. With cooler weather, wallflowers are "rowing much better and clean cultivation between the rows is necessary in order to give them a chance. Where rows of new plants have been lined out from time to time during the season, care should be taken, to see that everything is well and legibly labelled. Soon the tops of many plants will bo dying down and trusting to memor*' cannot be relied upon. An important work this month will be the care and planting out of many small sized bulbs that are as yet too

small for general work in the main garden. This is best done by the broad row system and saves a great deal of time. Suppose for instance that there are on hand several hundred small tulip bulbs. First choose a well clug piece ol the reserve garden (a coined of the vegetable garden will do), and open a shallow trench four inches deep and as wide as the spade will permit. This gives a clean trench at least six inches wide. Spread tho bulbs along this a&d then commence to set them out three abreast along the length of. the trench. Each bulb is pushed slightly into the soil two inches apart, and really makes a treble row of bulbs. Carefully fill in the soil and firm it lightly with the spade. A space of one loot should be left between each trench in order to get about during the season for weeding and cultivation nurposes. When .lilting time comes round, all one lias to do is to start, at the end of each trench and lift the bulbs in series of three at a time. By this method not a single bulb is overlooked.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Green Manuring. All vacant land, especially if if > y hungry and light or .lias been heavily cropped should fie given a short rest. This is best done by sowing down a quick crowing green crop which can be turned in during, the winter and so return to the soil much in tbe way of good nitrogenous manure. Growing green manures should always be carried out where supplies of stable manure cannot be obtained, for besides adding nitrogen to the soil, the rotted manure will, if dug in early on sandy land, be so well decomposed that it has the mechanical action of holding moisture in a similar manner to the holdiii" of water by a sponge. This you will see is of untold benefit to sandy soils provided the manure it dug in eaViy and well decayed before springCu the other hand it will fie found in wen heavy soils a green manure should be dug in late in the season and towards springtime for then the decaying steins have the action of keeping such soils more open and thus assist wit'i 1 lie drainage, besides letting air into tbe soil to aid in its sweetening. The same principle applies to stable nianvie. short manures l'or sandy soils and long strawy manures for heavy soils. To get back to tbe green manures, there are several which may be sown now and be leady for digging, in as reuired, among them being oats, cape barley, rape, mustard, and blue lupins. The latter has the added advantage of building up the nitrogen content of the soil to a marked degree. Current Work Clear away all spent crops and dig ground up leaving the surface rough for the action of rains and early frosts. Confluence to harvest crops, placing marrows and pumpkins on dry shelves, turn ip.- rooted beet in boxes of sand (sliglicly damp), and potatoes ill bags or clamps. Earrii vip early celery and leeks. ■Still spray young green crops to keep ii: check caterpillars, and discontinue the cutting of rhubarb. All asparagus tops should be tied up to prevent damage from winds. Sow cabbage and cauliflower seeds for planting out in very early spring.