THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 56, Issue 70, 4 January 1936, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.) THE GLASSHOUSE. Flagging Plants. During the recent hot weather many glasshouse plants looked a sorry sight towards noon with their leaves lying limp and to all appearances as if they had collapsed permanently. The first thing one thinks of is lack of water at the roots. This may be the case with some, especially hard wooded plants, but with soft wooded plants it is often a case of temporary exhaustion, the leaves being unable to cope with the excessive evaporation from their surfaces. This happens very often with Cinerarias, and il overwatering is carried out in an attempt to relieve the situation the annoying trouble is damping off and collar rot will: surely set in. A' very light syringing, not enough to run on the foliage, will help them a good deal, hut guard against over watering in an attempt to bring round plants which recover of their own accord as soon as the temperature returns to normal. Much can be doue to keep a cool atmosphere in the greenhouse if benches and floors are regularly damped down several times a day, and top ventilation left open at nights. Plants in outside frames will benefit if shaded during the hottest part of the day. Where there are many small pots to deal with, drying out is avoided if the pots are plunged up to their rime in a bed of clean ashes or fine sand. Pot on Primula Obconica. Primula obconica is a most useful plant for winter decoration under glass. It can be grown in the coolest of houses and is not hard to manage. Old plants can be turned out of their pots, split up into pieces, and repotted singly into four inch pots. Those in three inch pots can now be shifted into live ineli pots, and young seedlings for a later batch potted up into three inch pots. Unfortunately this Primula is very liablo to give many people a nasty skin irritation, and should not he handled by anyone susceptible to skin troubles. The irritation affects the hands and face, and with some gardeners it is often a long time before they are rid of the trouble. Chrysanthemums. The final potting of Chrysanthemums should be hurried on, and the plants stood out again in full sunshine. See that the ball of soil, round the roots is not too dry at potting time, otherwise no matter how much water is given afterwards it never seems to penetrate the dry ball of soil. This lias a decided effect on the growth of the plants. Pot firmly using a light ramming stick to make sure that the soil is evenly firmed from the base of the pot upwards. The plants will take no ill effects if the foliage is sprayed during the hottest part of the day. With Chrysanthemums it appears to assist backward plants and prevents the bark on the main stems from becoming excessively hard and hidebound. Streptocarpus. These plants are nearly finished blooming, and can bo removed to a cool frame to make way for Begonias. Do not, however, neglect their watering, and never dry them completely off as is the case with Cyclamen or Begonias. Remember that they have no root appendage for storage purposes, and if the water supply is cut right off the plants will die. A quiet resting is what they like till the next flowering season.

Young plants of tho above raised from seed sown this spring will he in a fit condition to pot from boxes into four inch pots. In these they will give a small and late blooming and can be placed with the main batch as soon as their flowers die. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Bulbs Again. It seems no time since bulbs were being lifted and yet we have started arranging for their planting. Grape Hyacinths have a very short resting period and tho next rains will start those left in the ground into growth. Others that have been stored will soon commence to show signs oi growth, and should be sorted and planted as soon as possible. Grape Hyacinths make a wonderful carpet for flowering cherries, magnolias, and azalias, and should be liberally planted beneath these subjects. In grassland they do very well and can generally get their bloom spikes high enough to show above tlio fast growing grass. Plant with the top of each bulb at least lour inches below tho surface. Next m order of early growth comes the Crocuses which should be planted in their permanent quarters before the middle of February. Where it is intended to place the bulbs in grassland, make sure that only the finest and low growing grasses surround thorn, otherwise they do not. show up to advantage. The bulbs should be placed at least three inches below the surface and even a little deeper on dry sandy ridges. Take advantage of any wot days and clean all other bulbs under cover. .Be careful not to mix the .labels and .remember that any surplus bulbs are always welcomed by schools and other local institutions where grounds bare to bo maintained. Should dampness and. mould attack any bulbs while in store, dust them very lightly with flowers of sulphur. Treatment of Wallflowers. To plant out young seedling wallflowers in early spring and expect a' good display only loads to disappointment, for the plants require a longer period of growth before they can give

of their best. If seeds have not been sown secure these immediately and sow in small beds or rows outside in tlio open ground. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, that is when they have made two pairs of leaves, they must be transplanted into a pieeo of clean ground, placing the plants six inches apart and allowing twelve inches between tlio rows. A convenient spot for this work can often be found in the vegetable garden, and if tlio soil is limed the work can proceed in a similar manner to the planting out of a batch of cabbages. It is while they are growing here that they have opportunity to branch out and form sturdy bushes, which on being planted out in late autumn will stand over the winter and every branch throw up a flower spike in spring. Therein "lies the secret, if any, of good displays of wallflowers. During the growing period it will be necessary to spray the plants to ward off attacks of the diamond-backed moth. Watering and mulching is also required during very dry weather and towards autumn the plants can be “wrenched” to assist with the foimation of fibrous roots. Gladioli Blooms. Excessive hot weather plays havoc with blooms required for exhibition, and wliGi’G possible some tempoi&iy cover from the burning rays of the sun should be given the bloom spikes. Go over all spikes as they are coming into bloom apd ease tlio buds round so that they all face the one side to produce perfect spikes. It is remarkable how much twisting and pulling about a single bud of gladioli will stand before it starts showing colour. Watch the watering and flood between the rows of growing conns during dry weather. Areas where gladioli “kittens” (small eorms) have been planted should be kept very free from weeds. Watering Shrubs. Watch carefully all shrubs during dry weather, more particularly shallow rooted evergreens such as Rhododendrons and Heaths. If once they become dry at the roots no amount of watering will save their lives. Even if other plants have to bo neglected always pay special attention to the watering and mulching of the above subjects. Gare of Lilies. During very liot weather it will be necessary to give lilies a good mulching of decayed leaves or grass. Much harm is done if the ground above the bulbs is allowed to dry out, this being particularly important with the stem rooting species. L. Itegaleu lias flowered magnificently in all parts of the province this year, and can be looked upon as our hardiest species. Do not exhaust the bulbs by letting tlio seed pods develop. Unless particularly required all seed pods should bo removed. Another lily which blooms at the present time is L. clialcedonicum, often called the “Turk’s Cap” or “Tomato” lily, a native of Greece. It grows to a height of two feet, and each stem carries several blooms, bright scarlet in colour. It has long been known in cultivation, but unless given suitable soil is a very shy grower. It loves a well drained peaty soil, and does not show its best unless such can be given. Do not bo at all surprised if it sulks lor a year or two on being shifted, for it appears to dislike handling.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Weather conditions have not helped this section of the garden, and much watering has had to be done. Pod crops will not fill out properly unless assisted by moisture at the roots. When runner beans have reached the top of their high stakes they may lie pinched in order to assist in directing all food materials into {lie swelling pods. Keep spraying the foliage regularly to keep down red spicier. Humid conditions will quickly bring on attacks of blight on potatoes. Before this happens give the crop a thorough spraying with either Bordeaux or Burgundy mixture. This can be repeated in a fortnight’s time, making sure that both sides of the leaves receive the spray. Small plants of all the cabbage family must bo sprayed with arsenate of lead in order to ward off attacks of tho diamond-backed moth. It is important that the undersides of .the leaves ho treated, for tho caterpillar feeds from this side of each loaf. Keep plenty of water at the roots of celery, and commence to spray with Bordeaux mixture to ward off attacks of tho celery fungus. Special cultivation should be given to those batches of vegetables required for exhibition, and all land kept well hoed between growing crops. As onions and shallots commence to ripen off, tlio soil can be drawn away from each side of tlio rows, and thus assist in final ripening. Remove all flower heads from rhubarb and seakale, and continue to cut herbs for drying. A good strain of broad bean is worth saving. Choose large straight wellfilled pods, lay them on a shelf in an airy shed to dry and protect from rats.