Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK THE GREENHOUSE. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPherson, N.D.H., N.Z.) Space in the greenhouses is at a premium at the present time on account of the room required for the raising of annuals. Difficulties can he got over by (a) raising the hardiest kinds first and getting them out into frames or the shelter of a hedge as soon as possible; (b) by dc-üble-boxing. The latter method consists of pricking off 100 seedlings into each plant tray just as soon as the seedlings are fit to handle and later, re-prick them off at the rate of 50 to. a pjant tray. Temporary shelves erected along the walls or even suspended by brackets from the roof will he found a great help at the present time. Sow seeds of tomntqps and keep the seedlings always on the move. Seedlings that are starved for want of root room never make good plants. Damping Off. During the springtime seedlings raised both under glass and outside are often attacked by a disease commonly called “damping off.” This is the work of a very low order of fungi known as Pythium de Baryanum. The plants are attacked at ground level, causing them to wilt and die. Such plants as members, of the cruciferae family, cucumbers, asters and many annuals are very susceptible. During the early autumn the fungus produces “winter” or “resting” spores capable of carrying over the disease from season to season, and can withstand very dry weather.

There are several remedies, such as sterilising the soil by means of steam, by baking, or by the use of soil fumigants, such as a 2 per cent, solution of formalin or the use of Oheshunt compound.

Too much shade, excessive moisture, and high temperatures help to spread this disease, and it is better to use an open, porous soil rather than a rich, close one.

Steam sterilisation, as used in large tomato houses, is too expensive for the cottage gardener, hut lie. can sterilise his own soil by the following method; Procure an old washing boiler and set it up on bricks. Fit it with a tap at the base, and make a false bottom to sit about a foot off the bottom of the actual boiler. Fill under the false bottom with water, and then fill up to the top with soil. Light a fire underneath and keep the water boiling. The steam will rise through the soil and sterilise it as it goes, killing all insects, fungus weed seeds, and harmful bacteria. A sack should be placed over the top to keep in the steam. It will take 20 minutes to half an hour to sterilise a boilerful from the time the water boils. If the above is not available, then try baking the soil. Light a fire under a large sheet of iron, and on the iron place a barrowful of soil. Keep it covered with a sack, and stir frequently so that the soil does not burn. Burning the soil allows nitrogen to escape into the atmosphere. The soil should he fairly moist before being placed on the iron sheet, and 20 minutes is sufficient to sterilise the barrowful.

Now, supposing even the above cannot be carried out, try thoroughly watering the heap of soil with a 2 per cent, solution of formalin. The heap should he covered with sacks to keep in the fumes.

A week should elapse before the soil is used after steaming or baking, and three weeks when formalin is used. The next method; and one that can he used on boxes and beds of seedlings without injuring the most delicate plants, is the use of Cheshunt compound. This consists of two parts hv weight of copper superphosphate to II parts by weight of ammonium carbonate. The materials should he finely ground and kept in well-corked glass bottles. Any chemist will make up the mixture. Dissolve one ounce in a little warm water, and make up to two gallons. A weak solution of Condv’s crystals, just sufficient to give a pink-purple colour to the water, is most useful in keeping down fungoid diseases in seed beds and boxes. It is extensively used in the propagating houses connected with public gardens and large nurseries, and will not injure seedlings or cuttings.

The Flower Garden. Recently-planted roses should he gone over and pruned hard back. Cat-mint and other edging plants should be lifted, divided, and replanted with as little delay as possible. Heavy frosts of late have kept slugs in check, but warmer weather, especially if it should he accompanied by warm rains, will soon see them out and about among the plants. A good slug trap is easily made by scattering bran in a depression of the surface soil and covering it over with a board. Keep the board raised lip off the soil sufficient for the slugs to crawl underneath. The trap should be examined every day or so and the pests destroyed. They do not like finely-sifted sharp ashes, and if a ring of this material is placed round choice plants it will keep them away.

Slugs are often blamed for damage caused by wood-lice (slaters), especially under glass. A good poison bait is the use of paris green (a powder), mixed with bran or cooked potatoes. Small heaps of the mixture should lie placed near seed boxes and plants requiring protection. Clematis can lie planted into their permanent positions. They like coolness at the roots, and their flowering stems in full sunshine. The Jaekmanii type can be pruned by cuttng back the branches a fair distance, for they flower on the ypung wood. The montana group should not be pruned till after flowering, for they flower on the wood made last season. Attend to lawns and turf over any worn patches. If turf is not available, then point up tlie soil and sow a little fresh seed, covering it with scrub to protect from birds. Worn and irregular edges of lawns can be straightened up by lifting squares of turf at the damaged parts and completely reversing them so that a good straight edge is obtained. The rear part can then he forked up and re-sown as above. Autumn-sown lawns should lie lightly rolled .and given a cutting with the mower set none too low. 11 weeding is thoroughly done this spring, little trouble will be experienced and a good sward obtained. If heavy frosts have lifted the roots slightly out of the ground, give the lawn a light top-dress-

jug of soil. No amount ot rolling will put rootsvback into the soil; top-dress-ing is the correct procedure.

The Vegetable Garden.

It is in this section of the garden that we find most activity during the next few weeks. Sowings and plantings must, of course, he regulated according to weather conditions. 'Jhe first sowings of carrots will be of the stump-rooted varieties, which are fairly quick in giving usable roots. The soil should lie well broken down and not freshly .manured with stable or other organic manures. Land treated with the above manures for a previous crop, say, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, etc., will be in a suitable condition for carrots. All that is required is the addition of superphosphate, used at the rate of two ounces to the square yard, and lightly forked in a day or two before sowing. Make the drills a foot apart, and sow evenly hut not too thickly. Thick sowing makes extra work at thinning time, and then there is the waste of seed.

For peas, sow William Massey, Blue Bantam, or English Wonder, three good early types that never fail to give a good return. Peas cannot he grown in land lacking lime, nor in shallow soils. Good deep soil, manured in the autumn with stable or cow manure, and then super added to the top spit at the rate of two ounces to the square yard, is what the crop requires. Sow in flat-bottomed drills. Two rows with the peas placed alternately will fit into each drill. When the seedlings appear, protect from birds, and when three to four inches high give them a light hoeing up.

Early lettuce and spinach should lie sown on warm land enriched with plenty of cow or short stable manure. Both these crops must he grown quickly, and in dry weather plenty of water must he given them.

Sow radishes as a catch crop between rows of peas and early potatoes. When planting potatoes use certified seed if obtainable, and choose the early varieties from the following list: Arran Crest, Arran Pilot, Cliff’s Kidney, Catriona, Epicure, Early Regent, Eclipse, Early Puritan, Garden Filler, Jersey Bennes, Robin Adair, Di Vernon, Witch Hill (Snowdrop) and Sharpe’s Express.

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AG19350907.2.20

Bibliographic details

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 55, Issue 279, 7 September 1935, Page 3

Word Count
1,461

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 55, Issue 279, 7 September 1935, Page 3

THE GARDEN Ashburton Guardian, Volume 55, Issue 279, 7 September 1935, Page 3