Now the other wefts: Four strands of muka are tied together with an ordinary knot. This knot is laid against the first warp. Two strands of muka are placed on top and two underneath this warp. (This second weft is about ¼ of an inch from top of ngore.) The two top strands are then inserted between the two bottom strands and laid underneath the second warp. The two bottom strands are brought over the second warp so the two that were on top before are at the bottom. In this way the weft is placed around all the warps. The feathers are added in this way: First, the way they are added on the body of the ngore (as opposed to the top). Neck feathers of a cockerel are used, two feathers being stuck together with soap rolled by hand. The shaft should be clearly exposed. It is held against (say) warp three. The muka when tied around the wool as described previously will also encircle the top of the shaft. Then the bottom of the shaft is bent up and laid against warp No. 4. The muka is then laid around this warp (No. 4) and at the same time it holds in the top of the shaft. Warps 5 and 6 are passed over; process repeated for seven and eight. On the top of the ngore neck feathers are not used; breast feathers are used instead. They are attached to every warp. Mrs Rerekura decorates this cloak with red cockerel feathers which are stuck together with soap. Top Right: Attaching feathers to border. * * Right: Maori lady wearing a ngore type of cloak. (After Angas. The New Zealanders, 1847.) * *