Art. XLVII.—The Ascent of Mount Franklin.

Transactions and Proceedings of the Royal Society of New Zealand, Volume 17, 1884, Page 350

Art. XLVII.—The Ascent of Mount Franklin. By James Park, Survey Department. [Read before the Nelson Philosophical Society, 5th May, 1884.] Abstract Although occupying a most prominent and central position in the Province of Nelson, this important mountain region is almost unknown, and up to the present time has always been considered inaccessible, or at least impossible to ordinary private enterprise. Even the hardy miner, who in his search after gold has penetrated the dark bush-clad and rugged ranges of the west coast of this Island, and other equally broken country elsewhere,

has avoided this wilderness, doubtless thinking that the chances of finding payable gold were insufficient inducements to meet the difficulties likely to be encountered in the search after the precious metal. Mount Franklin may be called the culminating point of the Spenser and St. Arnaud Ranges, for while the former, which is merely the northern continuation of the Southern Alps, rises to the northward by a succession of peaks gradually increasing in height, the latter, which trends somewhat more to the eastward, falls away to the northward by a like series of gradually decreasing heights, eventually losing itself in the densely wooded spurs at the sources of the Buller River. It was with the desire of making geological and botanical collections in this mountainous country that this trip was organized. Our party, comprising five persons, left Nelson on the 10th March. Proceeding by railway to Belgrove, we walked to the Rainbow, via Top-house, our camp gear being carried by two pack-horses. At the mouth of the Rainbow River there is evidence of a glacier that once came down its valley, flowing over the spur dividing that river from the Wairau. The moraine of this glacier can still be traced, but the greater part has been washed away by the river. After passing the mouth of the Rainbow Valley the mountains on either side of the Wairau suddenly converge, apparently blocking further progress in this direction. However, on getting close to this barrier, we found a narrow flat running parallel with the river. Where the flat was washed away, or a precipice rose abruptly from the river, the track was cut out of the solid rock, in many places being half tunnelled to obtain a few feet on the solid. The Wairau Gorge is, we believe, one of the most wonderful and imposing sights in New Zealand. On both sides the mountains frequently rise by a succession of steep, rugged precipices to a height of 3,500 feet above the river, and in this might be said to rival the deep canõns of the Rockies. About half way through the gorge we crossed Coldwater Creek, and Judge's Creek half-a-mile beyond. These creeks rise towards the sources of the Awatere, breaking through the Raglan Ranges, locally known as the “Bounds of Hades.” On the 12th we reached Tarndale old station. Next day the range behind the old station was ascended to a height of 5,500 feet. As seen from this elevation much surprise was expressed that the Wairau preferred to cut its present course through a high mountain range to finding an easy outlet by the Alma, which drains the tarns giving the name to Tarndale,

and rises within a stone's throw of that river. However, an examination of the structure of the mountains forming the gorge shows that the river has cut down an old anticline, a task not so stupendous as might at first be supposed. That the erosion of this gigantic anticline has been attended by very momentous consequences is not difficult to conceive, when we remember that at one time it was the sole support of the inner sides of the synclines now forming the ranges on both sides of the river. On the 14th we proceeded up the Wairau to Island Saddle, 4,100 feet high, and thence down the Serpentine to the Clarence River. It was from this point, looking through Maling's Pass, that we first obtained a view of the snow-clad Spensers. Having crossed the river, we followed down the right bank to Duncan's Creek, where we were hospitably entertained by Mr. F. A. Thompson, Government Surveyor, engaged in this district on topographical and trigonometrical work. The next day, the 15th, under the guidance of one of Mr. Thompson's men, we retraced our steps to the junction of the Serpentine, and thence followed up the Clarence to Lake Tennyson. At the south end of the lake there is a great accumulation of glacier debris, covered with a soft peaty deposit, in which the pack-horses frequently bogged, thereby greatly impeding our progress. Leaving Lake Tennyson on our right, we proceeded over Maling's Pass, 4,150 feet, into the valley of the Waiau. The aspect of the country had now changed. Instead of the bare inhospitable mountains of the Clarence, the slopes of the ranges on both sides of the valley were wooded to a height of 4,500 feet. Content with our day's walk, we camped on the large fan of Pass Creek. Next morning, the 16th, we raised camp and proceeded along the right bank of the river, keeping a sharp look-out ahead for Mount Franklin, to which we were now rapidly approaching. For some seven miles we travelled over a succession of fine grass flats. In this distance several creeks were crossed, those from Mounts Enid and Humboldt being the largest. On both sides of the valley we noticed many fine waterfalls descending to the river below by a series of low falls or cascades. The valley now narrowed to a chain or two in width, and, the bush closing on the river, we were constrained to turn the horses adrift. From this we had to carry our swags on our backs, and now made but slow progress. At times we were scrambling through the thick bush or over steep shingle slips; at other times we had to take to the river bed, crossing and recrossing on the large boulders piled in the channel, and between which the water rushed with a deafening noise. Some two hours of this

laborious travelling brought us to the last clump of bush, in which, well sheltered from all winds, we pitched our camp, at an altitude of 4,050 feet above the sea. Shortly after dark our party was further augmented by the arrival of Mr. Thompson and another guide. The next day was occupied in making botanical collections and looking out the best route to ascend the mountain. About 20 chains above our camp, that is at the foot of Mount Franklin, the Waiau divides, and proceeding up the left-hand branch for about two miles, we left the main stream and scrambled up the steep face of an old terminal moraine, composed of huge angular rocks and debris piled to a height of 700 feet. On the opposite side of the valley we counted six or seven very distinct parallel terraces, furrowed out by glacier action. These terraces occupy a lower level than the foot of the terminal moraine just mentioned, and must therefore be due to the action of the glacier that once filled the Upper Waiau Valley. Still pursuing an upward course, we encountered a small area of glacier ice, probably all that now remains of the great Waiau Glacier. At this place, 6,050 feet high, may be seen small patches of that peculiar 1-celled plant, Protococcus or red snow. The presence of this vegetable growth is said to be an indication of the very permanent character of the snow on which it occurs. At 5,600 feet Mount Franklin presents an almost perpendicular wall from 500 to 1,000 feet high, and seeing little prospect of a practicable route in this direction it was determined to attempt the ascent from the other branch of the Waiau. Next day, the 18th, we proceeded up the right-hand branch some two miles above the junction, and turning to the right began the ascent of the mountain. A succession of rounded bluffs and steep shingle slips soon brought us to an elevation of 5,500 feet. From this height we observed a lake at the head of the right-hand branch, some two miles to the westward. This lake, which was estimated at two miles long and a quarter of a mile wide, was named Lake Thompson in compliment to Mr. Thompson, to whose assistance the success of the trip was mainly due. The hollows now began to be filled with snow, and the grasses, so luxuriant below, now gave place to Celmisias and Haastias and occasional patches of Raoulias and Donatias. At 6,500 feet we encountered permanent snowfields, and at 7,500 feet we reached the top of the range, which is a mere razor-back, being only a few feet wide, and composed of loose angular and slab-like rocks. On looking over to the north side we observed a clear mountain lake, very similar in size and appearance to Lake Thompson. This lake was

named Lake Constance. From the direction of its outlet it appears to be the source of the east branch of the D'Urville river, which drains into Lake Rotoroa. Continuing along the ridge in a westerly direction we attained the summit of the highest peak we could see at 2 p.m. The height by our aneroids was 7,850 feet above the sea. Mr. Thompson has since taken observations to Mount Franklin, and calculates the height at 7,900 feet, that is about 2,000 feet lower than shown on the maps. The prospect, which from the central postion of this mountain must be very extensive, was entirely hidden from view by a heavy mist, and fearing lest we should be caught in a snowstorm, we hastily erected a cairn over a tin box containing the names of the party and the date of ascent. We then began the descent, and reached the camp before dark. Next day we commenced the homeward journey. As we continued down the river we observed, in many places, on the slopes of the Spensers, about 1,000 feet above the river flats, the remains of glacier terraces. Instead of returning by Maling's Pass, we proceeded down the Waiau to Lake Guyon. Here the Waiau Glacier appears to have divided, the Stanley River branch having its terminal moraine at Mr. Fowler's homestead. The evidences of glacier erosion around the lake are very distinct and interesting. Passing Lake Guyon we came to the Stanley River, and thence by way of Fowler's Pass, 4,350 feet, arrived at Duncan's Creek, on the Clarence. On the 21st we reached Tophouse, and the following day the accommodation house on the Motupiko. In our journey to the latter place we made a detour to Lake Rotoiti. The waters of this lake, like those of Lake Tennyson, are held back by an immense moraine, through which it has cut its outlet. This old moraine covers an area many square miles in extent. Near the lake occur heavy deposits of gravel, sand, and clay, occupying positions 200 or 300 feet higher than the moraine. They have been deeply furrowed by the great Rotoiti Glacier, thus showing that they were deposited prior to the New Zealand glacial period. These gravel beds extend down the valleys of the Motupiko, Motueka and Waimea, forming the Moutere and Waiiti Hills. They also cap the Port Hills, Nelson, where they overlie beds of lower miocene age. Except at the latter place, where they are highly inclined, they everywhere occur as perfectly horizontal strata. These gravels and sands are river drifts that have been deposited in still water. The high altitude they occupy at Lake Rotoiti gradually decreasing to the north-east till sea-level is reached, is due to a period of slow upheaval, subsequent to miocene times, and before the great glacial period of New Zealand.

On the 24th March we arrived in Nelson, the trip having occupied just fourteen days. During the trip the scarcity of birds was a subject of frequent comment. A few paradise ducks, usually in pairs, grey ducks and teal, and black swans, were seen on the tarns at Tarndale, and Lakes Guyon and Tennyson. The blue mountain duck, the whio of the Maoris, was more plentiful in the mountain streams. Even wekas were rare, and of the kiwi, kakapo and kea, nothing was seen or heard. Geological Observations In the ascent of Mount Franklin it was found that two formations enter into the structure of the Spenser Range,—a metamorphic series, consisting of chlorite schists and quartzites; and a younger series, probably of carboniferous age, consisting of hard grey and green sandstones, with numerous quartz veins, clay slates, purple jasperoid slates and slate breccia. The chlorite schists and quartzites occur as a low rounded ridge in the bottom of the higher basin of the Waiau. The strike of these rocks is north-west, with a southerly dip at high angles. They run in the direction of Lake Thompson, but their exact position in that direction was not ascertained. This outcrop occurs in the core of an old anticline, its exposure being due to denudation. Gold is reported to have been found in the Upper Waiau, no doubt derived from these rocks, and in prospecting this country they are worthy of a careful examination, not only for gold but also for other valuable metals. The sandstones, slates, etc., lie unconformably upon the upturned edges of the metamorphic series, and compose the mass of the Spenser Mountains. Their general strike is north-east. The sandstones on account of their hardness form all the peaks and rocky projections, while the slates, being softer and more easily removed, have been selected by the creeks in which to cut their channels. A band of black slates, interbedded with the sandstones, is highly charged with peacock copper ore, a variegated variety of copper pyrites. Botanical Notes From 4,000 feet to the snow-line Mount Franklin is such a waste of bare rock as to be almost destitute of the numerous fine alpine forms for which the St. Arnaud Range, a short distance to the north-east, is celebrated. Appended is a list of the plants collected during the trip. This is by no means an exhaustive collection, but is merely characteristic of the flora of Mount Franklin from 4,000 to 6,500 feet. For the identification of the species I am indebted to the kindness of Mr. J. Buchanan, F.L.S., Botanist to the Geological Department.

Phænogams. Ranunculus lyallii. " " pinguis. Celmisia lateralis, Buch. " " glandulosa, Hook. fil. " " sessiliflora. " " obcordata, Buch. " " longifolia, Hook. fil. Veronica cupressoides. " " canterburyensis, Armstrong. " " odora, Hook. fil. " " linifolia, Hook. fil. " " elliptica. " " bidwillii. " " pinguifolia. Gnaphalium bellidioides. " " colensoi. Haastia sinclairii. " " pulvinaris. Aciphylla monroi. " " lyallii. Ozothamnus microphyllus. " " depressus. Cotula pectinata. Brachycome sinclairii. Ourisia colensoi. " " macrocarpa. Traversia baccharoides. Acæna sanguisorbæ. " " glabra, Buch. " " inermis. Notothlaspi australis. " " rosulatum. Dodonæa viscosa. Mitrasacme cheesmanii. Hydrocotyle pterocarpa. Leucopogon frazeri. Pentachondra pumila. Cyathodes colensoi. Dracophyllum urvilleanum. Raoulia grandiflora. Pimelea lyallii. " " prostrata, var. γ. Gentiana con inna. " " saxosa. Thelymitra pulchella. Claytonia australasica. Clematis colensoi. Senecio bellidioides, var. γ. Drosera stenopetala. Drapetes dieffenbachii. Wahlenbergia cartilaginea. Carpha alpina. Juncus australis. Luzula oldfieldii. Carex colensoi, Petrie. " " wakatipu. Uncinia australis. " " campestris. Hierochloe alpina. Trisetum antarcticum. Danthonia flavescens. " " australis. Agrostis pilosa. " " canina. " " æmula. Poa foliosa, var. α. " " " " var. β. " " anceps, var. debilis. " " colensoi. " " australis. Festuca duriuscula. Cryptogamia. Polypodium grammitides. " " australe. Hymenophyllum flabellatum. Cystopteris fragilis. Aspidium cystostegia. Lycopodium clavatum. " " varium.