ON THE LAND

New Zealand Tablet, Volume LI, Issue 43, 15 October 1924, Page 45

ON THE LAND

'For the. fitting of the handle a saw,, spokeshave, and a bit of hardwood are always desirable, but for a bushman in emergency the axe or slasher is the only tool -essential +1 i M ;!f, fix the axe " liead to ° "far out on- the handle or the fall will suffer. . This implies! the deepening of the wedge-cut by Jin or fin, and the cutting off of what protrudes after fixing.. L AU REVOIR. With tools prepared and keen, reminiscences of the old camp-fires and forest scenes when New Zealand was in the making come flooding in upon us; we begin again to feel the wild enchanting call, the charm of the strenuous but free life of the N.Z. bushman. noet Wh* °f l -lT leadS US int ° tlier l >aths > tut as. some poet hath put it (no matter who), "Still their bright track, which'remains in the son! iNo shadow can cover no time can efface Around them life's billows and tempests may roll, But they still leave them clear for the pilgrim to trace." . . FINIS.

SCIENCE OF THE AXE OR AXECRAFT AND BUSHCRAFT (Contributed.) THE SIMULTANEOUS SPLITTING AND SIDE IMPACT BLOW. The general rule is to commence splitting from the end. When the blocks are sawn off, therefore, if they should be fairly large it will be found convenient to set. them up on end in order that the grain of the wood, knots, or other peculiarities may be seen at a glance. To "cut out" using the maul and wedges and do tho work more speedily, instead of dividing the block into halves and quarters by wedge power commence by knocking slabs "off the back" by using the combined splitting and side-impact-conserving stroke. As far as possible leave the slabs just hanging to the mother block, to hold them in position on end, and by using the above stroke send the billet flying sideways till the slab is in pieces chop around the block, and following the direction of the age rings strike off more "slabs" which send flying in the same style, finally send the core into quarters, and the task is accomplished in the most expeditious way. Even if the block should appear too stiff for the axe unaided by the wedges, the unexpected frequently happens, and the whole block is disposed of by first splitting off what will come away before attacking the more difficult part. To deliver the side stroke properly the essential thing to do is to strike so that at the precise moment that the edge of the axe enters the wood it at the same time strikes outwardly. The impact of the blow is thus added to the 'bursting power. This stroke is difficult to acquire, and in bushcraft is sometimes termed "kowking" the edge; it might with equal propriety be termed the shell-shock blows. Beginners beware when practising it, and let no one stand in the lino of fire. PUTTING IN THE AXE-HANDLE. A false blow! and away goes the axe-handle. Mischance! No matter, keep on smiling. There's no use in worrying. Let us repair it promptly. The first thing to do is to get out the part which still sticks out of the axehead. "Bore it out" did you say? "That makes too much trouble." "Besides when in camp there may not be augers, chisel, etc., to hand, and forewarned is forearmed." Shape a piece of hardwood (about 6in long) so that it will just pass through the eye of the axe-head; lay down ■ the axe-head flat on the ground; place the piece of hardwood close up and in contact with the broken off piece in the axe-head, supporting it underneath so that it will strike only against the wood and not come into collision with the iron when subjected to the blow, for we are relying on impact to forcibly eject the handle. Everything having been correctly placed, pick up another axe and deliver a well-directed and forceful blow point-blank on the piece of hardwood with the back of the axe. A circular sweep something after the manner of the golfer's stroke is very effective. A few such blows will generally expel the broken handle; if, however, it proves too obstinate—a rare occurrence— recourse to fire. There is no risk of spoiling the temper of the steelface if the following simple precautions are taken: Push or drive the axe-face into the ground as far as' the eye. Make a fire on the part of the axe-head which is above ground. Don't wait till the wood in the eye is reduced to ashes, but as soon; as it is sufficiently burned or contracted to come out freely, shove it out with a piece of scrap iron or any convenient stick which may be at hand, then pull the axe out of the ground and dip it into cold water immediately. Before putting in the new handle rub down the sharp edges of the axe-eye with a file, so as to prevent them from cutting into or chafing the wood, when side leverage is exercised on the handle.