ON THE LAND

New Zealand Tablet, Volume LI, Issue 15, 10 April 1924, Page 45

ON THE LAND

, MARKET REPORTS. There was.a medium yarding of fat cattle at Burnside last week, 229 being offered. The number of prime heavy bullocks' was small. Amongst the bullocks there was a fair number of unfinished animals. Owing to the small yarding, there was a good sale for all prime ox beef, prices for this quality being roughly about 30s per head better than the previous week, and medium-weight cattle improved to the extent of from 10s to 20s per head. Extra prime bullocks £l7 to £l9 17s Gd, prime bullocks £ls to £l6 10s, mediumweight bullocks £ll to £l3 10s, light bullocks £7 10s to £lO, prime cows and heifers £7 10s to £9 15s, medium £4 10s to £6, old and inferior £3 to £4. Fat Sheep.— There was a large yarding of fat sheep, totalling 2659 head. The number of extra prime wethers was very small, and even medium wethers were not very numerous. Freezing buyers were operating more spiritedly than usual, and consequently a fairly good sale resulted. The sale opened at prices fully 7s per head above the preceding week's rates for all classes, but receded slightly during the sale though towards the end prices recovered, and the sale closed at opening rates. Extra prime wethers brought up to 47s 3d, prime wethers 40s to 455, medium 35s to 38s 3d, light 30s to 325. The Utility Fence (Contributed.) STRAIN-UP AS RUNNING-OUT PROGRESSES. The second wire having been now secured at A and D, the extreme ends of our fence, we put on our straining machine at C, where the two ends meet—a Jcwt. coil has been run out both ways from C—and take up the slack. The next thing we note is that though the wire is strainedup to a sufficient tension from the angle B to the terminal point at 1) it is not quite tight enough from A to B, the result of the pressure on the angle-post not permitting the free running of the wire. Now, if we had sufficient depressions in this pari of the line, the proper tension might he obtained by stapling the wire down to the footedposts at su«h places, but as in this case the ground-surface is level, or nearly so from A to B, the best thing to do is to loop a false tug or wire round the angle-post, attach a second wire-strainer to it, and pull up the wire between A and 13, then return to C and take up the slack, which will be, as it were, passed round the post, the result of the tightening-up the other side of the angle. When sufficiently tight everywhere just leave the straining machines where they are till Ave run out the third wire. Tie it on at the anchor D; staple up about every third post (average), leaving out those at the depressions as before, when, returning to the "jinny" at C from which, run out a wire to the straining post at A and returning to C again, staple up in the same way as before. Couple ch. wire with a figure-of-eight knot at C. Now tie off the last wire at C with splicing loops and release the strainingmachine and put it on the wire which we have just run out, and strain up as we did the bottom wire at A. The end we hod in view in leaving the straining machine on the second wire till the third was run out was, that while running-out the third, having to pass along the whole line, we might notice if the second wire happened to bo bent out of line, through perchance being caught in any knot, stick, or other projection, and if so, that we might set it free and take up the resulting slack before releasing the machine, and securing, and so save time and trouble. It is obvious that time is saved by working in this way as we don't have to make two trips along the linethe two things are done at the one hit. Note well here that the' best method of straining each wire singly as it is run out possesses the advantage if obviating the entangling of the wires, particularly it the knots—trouble which is sure to follow, cause loss of time and much inconvenience, if all the wires are run out before commencing the straining. Some fencers stress the importance of straining the two topmost wires first, aa they exert more leverage on the straining-posts. This cannot be denied, still it is preferable on the whole ,to work from

the bottom, ,even if \we should be put to the trouble of straining the top wire again, because those at least who are accustomed through long practice, to put up the wires by sight, would find it impracticable to judge the gauge from the top. Beginners and those who are bound to work to a specified gauge may work from the top equa/ly well provided that they first place the bottom wire in its correct position and gauge the rest from that. Sometimes one sees the bottom wire stapled down right at the groundsurface or just clear' of it. This is waste of material. RIGHTING THE DISTRIBUTING POST. Before proceeding further let us take a glance at our distributing post (that which is next to the anchor).. A slight inclination out of the perpendicular backwards: from the anchor-eye and a crack between the back of th» post and the earth at the foot, proclaim the fact that the' pressure may force the post backwards to such a degree? as to slacken the topmost wires of the fence, to say nothing; of the appearance of such an eye-sore as a leaning post,, unless a remedy be promptly applied. So take a piece of plain wire about a foot to 18ins longer than the distance from the head of tlie post to the anchor eye, to which anchor eye secure one ond by a twisted loop. Next attach a tug or false-wire at the top of the distributing post. Put on the wire-strainer and pull the post back just a little beyond the perpendicular to allow for a slight "give" when releasing the wire-strainer and "stapling off." Staple the wire and remove the strainer and false wire. The post will now remain constant in position. No fear need bo entertained of its moving again. (To be continued.) GARDENING NOTES. WORK FOR THE MONTH OF APRIL. The Vegetable Garden. — The Dutch hoe or cultivator should be frequently used amongst the vegetable plots to keep down weeds, as these are difficult to eradicate when winter sets in. Dig in plenty of good rotten manure as the plots become vacant, in preparation for the rainy season; the soil will be thus enriched for early spring sowing. Collect the vegetable refuse and fallen leaves and remove them to the manure heap: such decaying matter is invaluable for fertilising purposes. Winter greens may be planted. to supply requirements when vegetables . are scarce. Sow a bed of white stone or golden ball turnips, these being the best winter kinds; also a bed of winter spinach (the prickly variety is the best for winter use). Spinach plants should be thinned out when well advanced, to about six inches apart. Well-manured rich soil is essential to successful cultivation of spinach. As the cabbage fly is very . destructive in some localities, spraying with quassia chips or other approved preparation is necessary to destroy the pest. The quassia chips solution is prepared by soaking a handful overnight in water and then spraying with the. solution. The spraying should be done early, as : a preventative. . Growing cabbage need plenty of moisture, and this is best supplied by frequent watering. '• The Flower Garden. —As frosts will soon be experienced it will be necessary for those' who desire to preserve geraniums or other favorite flowers to lift and store them in boxes under cover. When transplanting geraniums to boxes the leaves should be removed they die and drop off in.any case, and if allowed to decay around the stems the plant will rot and die also. Water geraniums well for some time after removal. Continue the planting of all varieties of bulbs; the sooner they are planted out now the better. Sow thinly seeds of hardy annuals in patches in the bor-. ders; if they come up too thick, thinning out will be necessary. Divide clumps that require it and clear away all decaying plants from the garden. . The Fruit Garden. Picking and storing the fruit will be the principal work now in the orchard. The fruit is ready for picking when it comes off when lifted upwards. Keep all fcruised fruit apart from the sound stock, and store the latter in cool, well-ventilated storerooms. The proper method of storing fruit is to place it on shelve* in single layers, carefully examining the stock at frequent, intervals for aay that many show signs. of decay; and at. once removing such. ■" _ , Y . - - .•