The Home Garden in October

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 97, Issue 3, 15 September 1958, Page 269

The Home Garden in October

By

A. G. KENNELLY,

Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Dunedin

THOUGH weather in October may at times be unsettled, the ground has warmed considerably since winter and given reasonably sunny days and good soil conditions all hardy plants will grow well. As the month progresses and danger of frost damage passes, first in the early and then in the later districts, half-hardy plants can be sown or planted.

IN most districts October is the preferred month for main-crop sowings of hardy vegetables. Early sown crops should be well established and should be kept weed free. Some early crops may need thinning and where this is necessary, it is best done before the seedlings become crowded.

Where frost danger is past, or can be guarded against, frost-tender plants such as dwarf and runner beans, cucumbers, marrows, squash, pumpkins, and sweet corn can be sown and tomatoes set out. Young seedlings raised under glass can be hardened off gradually (where conditions are still too severe to permit them to be established in the open) by progressively increased exposure to outside conditions. Land to receive them can be prepared by cultivation, manuring, and the erection of shelter, stakes, . or supporting wires. But in most districts sowing and planting of frost-tender vegetables are best deferred until toward the end' of the month. Where killing frosts are still likely, as in most of the plains areas of Canterbury, it is advisable to delay until the first or second week in November.

Home gardeners who raise their own autumn and winter cabbages and cauliflowers or broccoli should sow during the month or in most districts not later than early November to have sturdy, well-grown plants for setting out in December or January.

Asparagus In most districts asparagus shoots appear above the ground a little after the time of the last killing frost, though occasionally a severe late frost will damage the early shoots. On newly established beds their third year from the time of sowing the seed (the second year after planting out)— period of cutting should not

be more than about 2 weeks. In the fourth year the cutting period should not exceed about half the season or about 4 weeks. Thereafter cutting can continue each year for from about 6 to 10 weeks according to seasonal growth and vigour of the bed. Dwarf and Runner Beans

Tn North Island and South Island districts not subject to late frosts an early sowing of either dwarf or climbing beans can be made from about mid-October. Whether runner, climbing (pole), or dwarf beans are grown usually depends on the space available. Climbing beans, if well grown, yield more heavily than dwarf, and the s tringless climbing varieties are not inferior in flavour and quality to the best j wa rf varieties. Runner beans of the g car i e t Runner type are perennials and do not need to be resown every y ear Climbing (pole) beans and dwarf beans are annuals. Soil Preparation be so should be well drained and Rivated before sowing, and though r need no be more than moderately

rich in organic material and nitrogen and potash, the addition of phosphates or complete fertilisers rich in phosphates has been found beneficial on many soils where trials have been carried out. Beans are tolerant of moderately acid conditions, but lime

should be applied at 2 to 3 oz. a square yard some time before sowing if the land has not been dressed with lime recently. Climbing beans can be grown in rows without staking by slashing or pinching back _ excessively long growth, but where growing conditions are favourable best results are obtained if vines are staked or allowed to climb a support. With dwarf and climbing beans more than one sowing will be needed to ensure continuity of supply. Runner beans crop over a longer period than climbing or dwarf types. . Dwarf beans have the advantage of developing pods earlier, taking about 7 to 9 weeks, compared with about 9 to 10 weeks for most climbing varieties. Sowing Bean seed should be sown 1 to 2in. deep, but in exposed positions or on soils that tend to dry out a drill 2 to 3 in. deep should first be drawn out and the seed pressed 1 to 2in. deep (according to whether the soil is heavy or light) in the bottom of it. Dwarf beans can be sown in ■ single rows or double rows 6 in. apart with 2 ft. between the rows. Seed should be sown

or seedlings thinned to 2 to 4 in. apart; the richer the soil is the greater the distance between plants should be. Runner or climbing beans are usually sown or thinned to 6 to 8 in. apart in double rows about 9 in. apart and 3 to 4 ft. from other vegetables. Butter or waxpod beans are stringless varieties of french beans with pale or golden pods. There are tall and dwarf varieties. Butter beans should be planted a little later than ordinary french beans. Good varieties include Pencil Podded Wax and Round Pod Kidney Wax (round-podded varieties) and Woods Centenary (butter) and Sure-crop Black Wax (flat podded). Varieties Good varieties of dwarf beans include the following: Black Valentine: Heavy bearing with dark green, stringless pods about 7 in. long. Often used for a second early or main crop. Masterpiece: Crops well with straight, stringless pods; for early main crop or a late sowing. Tendergreen: Crops well and has tender, dark green, straight, fleshy, round pods 6 in. long. Good climbing varieties of beans include: . .

Fardenlosa (Market Wonder): Widely grown commercially because it crops heavily with straight, tender, fleshy, stringless beans up to about 10 in. long. A strain of Fardenlosa “Fardenlosa Shiny Pod” is now widely grown. It is listed under several names and has an attractive shiny green pod and is reputed to retain its crispness longer after harvesting than the ordinary strain of Fardenlosa.

Westralia: A useful variety somewhat similar to Fardenlosa in cropping. As it appears to be highly resistant “to bean rust, it should be specially valuable in districts, particularly in autumn, where that disease is troublesome. Other useful varieties of dwarf and climbing beans are listed in most seedsmen’s catalogues. Cabbages and Cauliflowers An October sowing of quick-matur-ing cabbages or cauliflowers should produce heads for cutting within

about 4 months. Where temperature, moisture, drainage, and plant foods are suitable, quick maturing varieties of cabbage should reach usable size in less than 3 months. Quick-maturing varieties of cauliflower usually require a little longer, even in favourable conditions, but both vegetables respond to rich soils, ample moisture with good drainage, and moderate to fairly high temperatures.

Continuity of supply can be assured in most gardens by regular successional sowing of varieties having similar maturity periods or with cauliflowers by sowing different varieties which have maturity periods varying from about 3| to about 7 months. Popular varieties of cabbages include Golden Acre (early), Copenhagen Market Slowbolt (slightly later), and Green Acre. Varieties of cauliflower include Walcheren, All Seasons (All The Year Round), Early London, Phenomenal 4 months, Phenomenal 5 months,' and Phenomenal 6 months. Potatoes ■ . .. - Because they are a staple article of diet, potatoes are the most generally planted of vegetable crops in New Zealand. They are grown in practically every home garden; even where space is at a premium it is usually profitable to grow at least one row of early potatoes. Many home gardeners who have the space have tried growing a considerable area and have been discouraged by their comparative lack of success and as a result now plant potatoes in a perfunctory way. The • potato crop is, however, so important that the selection of varieties and planting and cultivation deserve a good deal of attention.

One of the most important points in growing potatoes is the use of Government-certified seed. Few vegetables are subject to as many diseases as the potato and many of the diseases do not show in the tubers. Tubers infected with virus diseases such as leaf roll, mosaic, and crinkle may appear healthy and of a desirable type, yet if it were not for the seed certification scheme, these diseases would reduce the total yield of potatoes in New Zealand by half or perhaps two-thirds. Virus diseases are transmitted mainly by aphids (greenfly), the lower incidence of which in the South Island is the main reason for the growing of most of the certified seed there.

Apart from the purchase of certified seed the important points in potato growing are choice of variety, soil condition, and cultivation. Though the home gardener can usually make his soil more fertile by such means as drainage, rotation of crops, the addition of humus or humus-forming

materials, and the judicious application of fertilisers, he . cannot change his soil type, and though he may be able to provide shelter, he cannot change the aspect of his garden. Thus, if his garden soil is a heavy clay loam and has a southerly aspect, he may be able to mitigate its worst features, but can rarely do more. He should therefore select varieties most suited to his conditions. If he has space, he should try several of the most suitable varieties for 2 or 3 years; a 1-year trial is rarely of much value, as conditions maybe exceptional. Soil and Lime The soil for potatoes should preferably be . deeply and thoroughly cultivated, as thorough preparation of the soil not only ensures a perfect seedbed, but helps to maintain it in a satisfactory state of moisture, aeration, and temperature. Soils that have been trenched should, however, be given time to settle before planting begins. Because they may induce a: condition which favours scab, heavy dressings of organic manure are not advisable just before planting. A heavy dressing applied the previous year so that it is thoroughly decomposed or a green crop dug in some time before planting will, however, usually give satisfactory results, as also will the addition of such material as grass clippings. Soils which have recently been heavily limed should not be used. The potato is tolerant of acid conditions, and in soils infected with potato scab

the growth of the organism will be suppressed if the soil is medium to strongly acid. Apart from soil acidity the development of potato scab is influenced by both soil-temperature and moisture. Its development is -usually favoured by soil slightly drier than desirable. Fertiliser The fertiliser required for potatoes depends largely on the amount of organic material previously incorporated in the soil, but in general it has been found in Department of Agriculture trials that on the lighter and medium soils that are in fairly good condition a mixture • of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 of sulphate of ammonia applied at about 1| oz. a yard of row is satisfactory. On rich alluvial soils the dressing should be 5 parts of superphosphate to 1 part of sulphate of ammonia applied at about 1| to 2 oz. a yard of row. , On many home garden soils sulphate of potash will give improved results if added in the proportion of 1 part to either of the mixtures given. As an alternative to superphosphate and sulphate of i ammonia equal parts of superphosphate and blood and' bone can be used. Planting The simplest way to plant is usually to open trenches about 4 in. deep and 2 ft. apart and to dust the fertiliser along them. Tubers can be set 10 to 16 in. apart in these rows. Early crops which are to be lifted as new potatoes can usually be planted closer.

If the seed tubers are large (4 oz. or more), they can be cut into two or more sets. Each should have at least two eyes and a minimum of cut surface.

Cut tubers should be planted immediately. The soil should not be too wet or too dry. If the cut surface is permitted to dry out before the protective skin is formed, the plants are likely to be poor. Dusting the cut surface with ashes, sulphur, or lime to dry it is not necessary, though sulphur may have some value because of its fungicidal action.

Potato tubers do not need to be sprouted, but sprouting is of value, as it gives earlier growth and with early varieties, earlier lifting. With maincrop varieties, too, the crop gets a better start and in most seasons matures earlier. Short, sturdy shoots should be aimed at, as long, weak shoots are easily knocked off or damaged in planting. Varieties The Department of Agriculture carried out about 150 observational trials in the principal potato-growing districts with some of the most widely grown varieties of potatoes over 10 years before 1957. From these trials yield figures have been obtained, many of which differ widely from popularly held views of home gardeners and others on the productiveness, and therefore, very largely, the value of certain varieties.

Data obtained were principally on yields of table and seed potatoes according to soil, variety, and specific localities.

Eighteen varieties were grown, though the same number of trials was not carried out in all districts. Some of the varieties were not included in trials in some districts, but the results are interesting. They should lead to reassessment of some varieties by many home gardeners, even though final judgment of a variety should rest on its yield when compared accurately with others under the gardener’s specific conditions. However, texture and flavour may also have to be balanced against yield.

Glen Ham was outstanding in most districts. Ham Hardy was average in Southland, and outstanding in West Coast, North Island (W.C.N.1.) and South Canterbury, and well above average in other districts.

Dakota was only average in W.C.N.1.. but was above average elsewhere and outstanding in Rangiora-Ashburton (Rangiora to Ashburton), South Canterbury, and Otago. Arran Banner was above average in all districts, particularly in Blenheim-Nelson and Rangiora-Ashburton.

Inverness Favourite was average in Auckland, well above average in Rangiora-Ashburton and Otago, and above average in other districts. Iron Duke was average in W.C.N.1., East Coast, North Island (E.C.N.L), and

Southland and elsewhere above average (though well above average in Auckland, Nelson-Blenheim, and Ran-giora-Ashburton). Arran Chief was average in Auckland and W.C.N.1., but above average in other districts, particularly South Canterbury. Arran Consul . was well above average in Rangiora-Ashburton, above average in the North Island, and average in other districts. Sebago was average to above average except in Rangiora-Ashburton. Arran Pilot was average in most districts, but above average in Auckland and below average in W.C.N.I. and Nelson-Blenheim. Dunbar Standard was average in the North Island, but above average in South Canterbury, Otago,, and especially Southland. Jersey Bennes was well above average in Auckland and W.C.N.1., average in E.C.N.1., RangioraAshburton, South Canterbury, and Southland and below average in Nelson-Blenheim and Otago. Katahdin was poor in Auckland, Nelson-Blenheim, South Canterbury, Otago, and Southland and well below average in W.C.N.I. and RangioraAshburton. It did best in E.C.N.1., but was still below average. King Edward was poor in most North Island districts and NelsonBlenheim, somewhat better in the South Island, but still below or well below average except in Southland, where it was average. Chippewa was average in E.C.N.1., but below average elsewhere and well below average in Rangiora-Ashburton and Otago and poor in Southland. Cliff’s Kidney was below average in all districts and well

below in W.C.N.1., . Nelson-Blenheim. South Canterbury, Otago, and Southland. Aucklander Short Top was generally below average, particularly in the South Island (poor in South Canterbury), but was average in Auckland, E.C.N.1., and Southland. Aucklander Tall Top was below average generally, except in E.C.N.I. and Southland, where it was average. Tomatoes In many districts tomato plants are set out in unheated houses in September. The young plants . should be watered in moderation until they are well established and they should be watched for infestation with insect pests or infection with disease. Lindane spray will control aphids and DDT spray will control most active insects such as caterpillars. Side shoots are best removed while they are small, but to reduce the likelihood of transmitting virus disease on the fingers side shoots should be grasped between, the thumb and forefinger and bent so that they snap cleanly without leaving stubs in the joints of the leaf branches. Fingers should not touch any other part of the plant except side shoots before their removal. Other Vegetables The culture of root crops such as beetroot, carrots, and celeriac and of lettuce, peas, onions, and Chinese cabbage, which can be sown or set out during October, was discussed in last month’s “Journal”.

SOW NOW Beans (dwarf and When climbing) danger of Cucumbers frost is past Marrows ■ or if Melons protection Pumpkins • can be Sweet corn provided Lettuces ■ Peas I Successional Radishes sowings .Turnips Cabbages 1 For harvesting Cauliflowers or r in autumn broccoli J . and winter Kale Beetroot H no Brussels sprouts > sown last Corots month Spinach or spinach beet PLANT OUT Lettuces Onions (southern districts) • Potatoes (main crop) Tomatoes (late in .month in most ■districts) ' Silver beet |f no Cabbages planted . last (summer) mo nth Cauliflowers