Preparing flower for Showing

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 97, Issue 2, 15 August 1958, Page 177

Preparing flower for Showing

WITH the coming of spring and new growth in the garden many people will be thinking of the flower shows to be held through the season until about April. Those who have exhibited before will have few qualms, but many beginners may perhaps be wondering just how to go about this very interesting branch of gardening. In this article Elspeth Gray, formerly Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Auckland, discusses preparing flowers for showing. The section which deals with routine work for September is by Rosalie A. Campion, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Wellington.

THE show schedules are usually sent out some time before the date of the show and it is a good idea to read them very thoroughly not only to pick out the classes for entry but also to become familiar with the rules and regulations laid down. It is most disappointing to have a good exhibit disqualified on some technical point because the rules were not read properly.

If show dates are known well in advance, plantings may be timed to produce flowers at about the correct time in a normal season. In any case, the date of the show will be a help in deciding what flowers will be at their best at that time. It is a good plan to make a further check 10 days or a week before the show, as by that time a fairly clear idea can be obtained of what will be ready.

Usually there are 3 groups of classes open to amateurs: those for specimen blooms, those for collections (for instance, 6 named varieties of roses, 3 of each variety), and the decorative classes.

If not very much work has been done with decorative arrangements, it may be better to forgo entering in that class for the first one or two shows and, instead, to study the winning entries to get ideas from them as to the principles ’of flower ‘arrangement.

As a rule though, the average housewife uses flowers in her home and probably has containers in which flowers can be arranged very easily and effectively. Until experience is gained the best plan to follow, when entering the decorative classes at a show, is to arrange the flowers as they would be done for use in the house provided that they comply with the schedule.

Selecting the Flowers

If special blooms are needed for entering in a specimen class and they appear to be opening too quickly, they may be picked when they are about

half open. When placed in a cool, dark, well ventilated room they will remain only partially open for several days, provided that there is plenty of water in the container. When flowers have been kept like this they will open very quickly once they are

placed in a warm room or hall, so if it is possible, freshly picked blooms should be used. Either in the morning or evening of the day before the show all the flowers required should be picked with a few extra to allow for damage in carrying. All flowers should be cut with sharp secateurs and with a sloping cut at the base as, if they are cut square, the bases of the stems will rest on the bottom of the container and may not absorb much water.

It is best to pick the flowers and put them straight into water, so buckets or similar containers should be available on the spot. The flowers should have at least 4 hours in water nearly up to their necks before being taken to the show. By that time they will have absorbed enough water to keep them fresh for some hours. It is better to pick all blooms with stalks as long as possible, as it is much easier to cut more off than to spend time staging a bloom with a stalk that is too short.

Containers

Where containers are supplied for the staging of blooms, as is usual, it is a big saving for the exhibitor, and often means that more entries can be submitted than if containers were not available. Where they are not supplied the size selected should be suited to the size of the flower.* Sometimes, for example, a single daffodil is staged in a quart preserving jar and the container is quite out of keeping with the size of the bloom.

fill the container and hold the stem firm, provided that none of it is over the lip of the container when the exhibit is staged. Where the vases, are constricted in the centre it is not necessary to fill the vase with sphagnum moss. The moss should be rolled into a ball and gently pressed into the vase until it is held by the constriction. In classes calling for a group of a certain variety it is better to arrange the exhibit in the maximum number of containers permitted by the schedule than to spoil the exhibit by putting too many blooms into one vase. Stewards will give guidance where this is not specified in the schedule. In 3-tiered staging in a class of perhaps 6 different roses the brighter colours should be placed at the top, at the same time care being taken to see that the blooms are staged so that the colours blend satisfactorily not only in the exhibit but also with the flowers on either side, if that is practicable. •

Where there is a slight difference in the size of the flowers the larger ones should be placed at the front, as if they are at the top, the exhibit may look top heavy. An exhibit with blooms of uniform size will always look more attractive than one with some very big and some very small blooms. For decorative work it is sometimes possible to provide a back drop other than black, which is the standard one, and this may enhance the arrangement. Good blooms badly staged may lose points, whereas those which are staged well to bring out their better points will always be attractive. The exhibit must be arranged carefully, because if there is close competition, the quality of the staging may be decisive. The main points to remember when showing flowers are to use good blooms and to stage them well. The stems should be cut to an optimum length. If they are too short, the flowers look out of proportion, and if too long, the general effect may be top heavy.

For the decorative section, of course, exhibitors must supply their own receptacles, the correct size of which for each class should be clearly outlined in the schedule. If decorative work is being entered for the first time, it is a good idea to obtain suitable receptacles some time in advance and practise the arrangements, flowers and bits of twigs and leaves being used, to get a clear idea of how the finished entry is to be set up. If that is done, the arrangement can be prepared quickly and with a minimum of handling on the day of the show and will be much 1 brighter and fresher. For line arrangements, especially, it is preferable to pick the flowers with stems of varying lengths, as they are then easier to arrange and it is also a more economical use of the blooms.

In country districts, where the hall may be some distance away, the flowers will have to be handled carefully to avoid injury to them in transit. A large, flat box will prove very useful for this purpose when lined with several thicknesses of . newspaper. The flowers should be placed carefully in layers according to size.

An . easy way; to transport most specimen blooms is to place them separately in jars labelled with the number of the class. The jars are. then put in a divided carton, the cardboard divisions being used to support them. Flowers such as gladioli, however, would not travel well like this, as they are too top heavy. Several spare blooms should be included for each class.

Staging

Duties of Stewards

IVJOR.E people may be prepared to assist as stewards at shows, ■* especially smaller country shows, if it is appreciated that the duties and responsibilities are neither onerous nor very difficult. An outline of those functions may help by giving confidence to some who, however willing to assist, have felt unable to do so because they lacked experience. Broadly, the duties of a steward are: 1. To ensure that all. exhibits are correctly identified and are placed in the places allotted to them. 2. To assist the judge by clearing the hall (or .the vicinity of the class being judged) of all unauthorised persons before judging starts. 3. To be thoroughly familiar with the layout of the section and be able to answer questions with respect to the requirements of the schedules. 4. To refrain from making comments on entries unless asked for them by the judge. . 5. To record properly and accurately the placings awarded by the judge. 6. To replace exhibits carefully arid tidy the section when judging is completed. The first duty of a steward is to become thoroughly familiar with schedule details respecting the section for which he is responsible, and to know exactly where entries in each class are to be staged. He must fully understand the system of identification of exhibits and also the method of recording and displaying awards made by. the judge. Before the judge enters the hall (or section) the steward must check over his section and ensure that all identification cards are turned face downward (usually the face of a card contains details including the name of the exhibitor and space for the judge’s award, with only identification numbers on' the reverse side). As soon as judging of the class is finished the steward should turn the entry cards face upward, mark the judge’s awards on the cards, and without delay make corresponding entries in the notebook or schedule provided by the secretary. If a premier bloom is to be selected from a group of classes, it is the steward’s duty to place the required blooms, with their cards from the various classes, on a table or space reserved for them. After the premier bloom has been chosen the entries plus cards must be returned to their original positions. On all other occasions when entries may have to be moved in the course of judging the cards must always be moved with them to obviate any chance of mistake.

In staging flowers the main aim is to show them to the best advantage. Specimen blooms should face the front and be firmly fixed in the container so that they will not fall over if it is moved. Sphagnum moss is excellent for this purpose. It may be used to

, It is a sound policy to remain in the hall until the last minute. Exhibits may have to be moved or some detail attended to, and to leave the hall as soon as the blooms are staged could mean possible disqualifications. Stewards, however, are usually allowed to move exhibits to assist the judge. All exhibits in the . show should be clearly labelled with the name of the variety if it is known. This means extra work when there is little time to spare, but in the event of very close competition clearly and correctly named exhibits will usually have an advantage. Where collections of shrubs and perennials are being entered exhibitors should make sure that they are what is asked for in the schedule. If the wording is ambiguous, the steward’s ruling should be asked for. Most judges will be quite willing to discuss the flowers and the reasons for the placings afterward. The following are points to look for when flowers . are being picked for showing. Daffodils As with all blooms being picked for exhibition individual flowers of each variety will differ slightly, and great care must be taken to select only those that are as near perfect as possible. In the modern show narcissi the perianth is an important feature and it should be flat and set at right angles to the corona (trumpet). Viewed from the back, twisted and badly placed petals are easily seen and, as nothing can be done to correct these faults, such flowers should be discarded. Any segments that have nicks or split edges reduce the quality of the flower, as will those that are ribbed. The corona should be circular. If it is not completely symmetrical, it may be made so by careful manipulation.

Slight rain and mud splashes may be carefully brushed off, but if they are too heavy, it is not worth the effort. Brilliance of colour is very important and if the flower is exposed to hot sunshine, it will soon become pale and muddy looking. Red cup varieties for showing should be picked as soon as they open or must be shaded from sunlight. All other things being equal, the best coloured flower will usually win.

When cutting, the bloom choose a length of stem to match the size of the flower and show it to advantage. A strong stem without any twisting or distortion, though not so thick as to look clumsy, is the ideal.

The flower should face straight ahead and neither hang its head nor lift it above the horizontal.

Gladioli

Until fairly recently opinions on judging gladioli varied, but now there are standard rules. If the following

points are looked for when picking, the blooms should be well up to show standards.

A good spike should have a straight stem and flower head so that when staged the flowers are shown to their best advantage. At least 5 flowers should be open from the base, the ideal being to have them in varying stage of opening. They should all face forward and be evenly spaced so that stem is hidden when the blooms are fully developed. The spike should be at least up to the average for the particular variety both in its length and the size of the individual flowers.

An overall fresh and clean appearance should be aimed at. Usually a leaf of gladiolus is placed on each side of the spike to set off the flowers.

Faults to avoid are lower flowers wilted or removed, damaged petals, and any that are streaked or flecked, indicating that virus is present. Spikes with bent or crooked stems should automatically be discarded except for

the primulinus types which very seldom have perfectly straight stems. When gladioli are picked and left overnight in a different position the top will usually bend, spoiling the effect of an otherwise excellent spike. Further information on exhibition gladioli was given in the February 1956 issue of the “Journal”. Roses It is sometimes hard to discard a rose that is very nearly perfect and yet has some small blemish which will lose points on the show bench. With roses perhaps more than any other flower it pays to be ruthless when picking them for exhibition. There are usually classes in the schedule for exhibition and decorative roses, and often there is uncertainty as to the difference. All roses are decorative, but not all of them are suitable for exhibition classes. Generally, exhibition roses have better form, substance, and size and hold their shape longer than those used solely for decorative work. They usually have more petals, which enable them to hold their shape longer, but it is not possible to give a hard and fast definition of an exhibition rose, and even judges differ slightly in their opinions.

The main points to look for in a decorative rose, which may be single, semi-double, or double, are a good clear colour, brightness, and general artistic effect. They have fewer petals than the exhibition types and therefore lose their shape more quickly. Some catalogues, when giving lists of roses, indicate ones that are suitable for exhibition. This may be of help to the amateur exhibitor. A good rose should have enough petals for that variety and they should be symmetrically arranged with a circular outline and a well formed centre. The flowers, of course, must be fresh and if they are picked half open the evening, before the show, they should be at their peak by judging time. In a self-colour rose the colours must be pure and in bi-colours such as Talisman or Peace (Mme A. Meilland) the same applies. If the overall effect is muddy or lacking in brilliance, the flowers should not be used. This is also the case when there is a break in the colour, as sometimes happens, and the bloom is not true to type. The petals must be firm, but ones that are too coarse will lose points. The largest bloom will not always win, as it may be too coarse and there-

fore not a good specimen. The standard to look for is a typical well grown representative of the variety. Where foliage is included in the exhibit it should be as clean and healthy as possible and preferably arising from the stem of the bloom, except in decorative classes. If there is too much foliage, it will detract from the flower, but there should be sufficient to show the bloom off to the best advantage. No set rules can be made as to the amount of foliage to leave, as it varies with the individual flowers and varieties. The stem should be strong enough to hold the rose upright, but should not be so heavy that it gives an impression of coarseness. A bad rose may have poor shape, with a confused, blunt, or split centre (though a few varieties naturally have rather blunt centres) and soiled or damaged petals. Overdressing by removing outside damaged petals or artificially opening the rose so that it looks unnatural will lose points as will undersized or coarse blooms of the variety. Wiring to hold it upright will disqualify a rose when entered under the rules of the National Rose Society of New Zealand.

This assistant at the G.E.C. Research Laboratories is engaged in measuring the light output of a fluorescent tube. At the Osram Lamp Works routine examinations are made at all stages of production and the finished product is subjected to close scrutiny. In addition the Research Laboratories of The General Electric Co. Ltd. of England take groups of lamps and tubes at random from the assembly lines and

test them exhaustively lor their performance and quality. They are burnt to extinction to determine their life and throughout this period checks are made on their maintenance of light output. This constant watch on quality ensures that Osram lamps and tubes keep the high standard of performance and reliability for which they are known the world over.

Dahlias

With the different types of dahlias, cactus, decorative, and pompones, slightly different points will have to be looked for when each variety is picked. Important points are that the head must face the front and be as nearly as possible at right, angles to the stem. Frequently, especially in the giant varieties, the head either falls over too far or at the other extreme is held almost upright on the stem. In fully double dahlias the centre should not be showing, in any type, as it is a sign that the flower is past its best when the stamens appear.

Judges will always look at the back of the flower to see that the florets are still fresh, so if there are any that are withered, bruised, or discoloured, the flower should, not be used. The colour should be true to the variety without any streaks and the general appearance clear and fresh. Bi-colours must be evenly marked on each petal except where a particular variety has irregular markings. The following is a general guide to the classification of dahlias for . showing:

Bompones, 2 in. and under across; miniature types, 5 in. and under; medium decoratives, over 5 in: and up to 7£ in.; and giant decoratives over 8 in. When staging dahlias, as with any other flowers, the exhibit should be arranged so that the colours blend and do not clash with the blooms in neighbouring exhibits. " As colours are heightened by contrast, arrange the flowers if possible so that each one will brighten up the one next to it.

mums should be globular with the petals incurving regularly. Stale blooms and those showing an eye, an uneven outline, or breadth without corresponding depth should not be used. Singles should have no more than 5 rows of florets, which should be broad, firm, and flat. Brilliance of colour is to be looked for in all the flowers, and any with wilted florets either at the back of the bloom or in the centre should be avoided. A straight stem holding the flower perfectly upright without being too thick is desirable and any with weak stems should be discarded, unless they are being used in arrangements to break the stiffness of the line. The foliage should be clean and add to the attractiveness of the entry. Vase of One Type of Flower Where an exhibit of blooms of one type of flower such as zinnias or gerberas is required it is better to exhibit flowers of mixed colours rather than flowers of all one colour or variety. Unless one colour or variety is required, judges will give, preference to an exhibit showing a range of colours and types of that flower. The examples given above cover several different types of flowers to serve as a guide to exhibitors and cover the main requirements.

Dipping the stems in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes as soon as they are picked, before placing them in cold water, will help to keep them fresh longer. Chrysanthemums Because of the wide variety of types of chrysanthemums special points must be looked for when each variety is picked. A large exhibition bloom should be both broad and deep and w e 11 shouldered with a full centre. A flower with a rich colour, freedom from “damp” spots, and with firm petals should be looked for. The eye or centre should hardly be noticed and any with more than one eye discarded. In - curvi n g chrysanthe-

The points set out on what to pick or discard for showing are for ideal ’blooms. Naturally it is not always possible to have perfect flowers, but if these points are used as a guide, ;and. exhibitors profit by their own •observations and experiences, they will be able to contribute toward raising the standard of flower shows ’throughout the country.

Work for September

ILawns All lawn sowing should be completed before the middle of this month. ‘Though autumn sowing is always preferable, in districts where there is no ■danger of summer droughts or water restrictions spring sowing can be satisfactory. The ground will have been well •consolidated by winter rains and can be lightly hoed and raked to kill germinating weed seeds. This will break the topsoil into a suitable tilth on which to sow the seed. Experiments have shown that comparatively poor soil can produce a 'better lawn than a very fertile one. It is therefore unnecessary to obtain topsoil if the existing soil can be worked to a ' reasonable condition.

A seed mixture of 2 parts of chewings fescue and 1 part of browntop is is suitable for general lawn use and should be broadcast evenly at | to 1 oz. per sq. yd. After the seed is broadcast a fertiliser dressing at 1 oz. per sq. yd. of a mixture of three parts ■of sulphate of ammonia and 1 part of .•superphosphate can be. made. The seed and fertiliser should be lightly raked. Lime should only be used on lawns under exceptional circumstances.

All lawns should now receive a similar fertiliser dressing to that given at seed sowing, and mowing will need to be more regular. The grass should be cut to about 1 in. high and should not be allowed to grow to more than 2 in. The cut grass should be removed and used either on the compost heap or as a light mulch on flower beds.

The regular use of fertilisers will usually keep lawns healthy and weed free, but where a lawn has become over-run with clovers and weeds it will be necessary to apply hormone weedkillers before topdressing with fertilisers.

A mixture of 2 fl. oz. of 2,4,5-T and 1 fl. oz. of MCPA mixed with water and distributed over 100 sq. yds. will

For the gardener September is one of the busiest months of the year. Growth, especially of lawns, is increasing: seed sowing, planting, pruning, and spraying require early attention.

kill most weeds and could be repeated at half strength in 6 months to complete the kill.

Seed Sowing

Bedding schemes should be considered and colour harmonies worked out before seeds are bought. Seed, of most annuals can be sown outside during September in warm positions, but areas under eaves which suffer from raindrips should be avoided. The addition of sand and compost plus a dressing of superphosphate and lime will improve germination and resulting growth. The seed should be sown thinly, and all but the very finest seed should be lightly covered.

Now is the time for filling gaps in mixed borders by sowing a few seeds of cornflower, cosmos, clarkia, godetia, larkspur, night-scented stock, and other annuals. Where the protection of glass is available seed of African marigold, schizanthus, zinnia, dimorphotheca, capsicum, and ursinia can be sown in boxes.

Chrysanthemums from Cuttings

The taking of chrysanthemum cuttings should be continued as the growths develop (see last month’s notes). When the cuttings have rooted in the sand planting into a more nourishing medium should not be

delayed. The plants should be kept growing steadily to prevent the stems from becoming woody and thus poorer conductors of food.

If the final planting positions are not prepared, the plants should be transferred into boxes of potting mixture or lined out temporarily in the vegetable garden. When the plants have re-established, the tips should be nipped out to encourage side shoots.

The soil should be prepared 3 weeks before planting by working in of animal manure or compost and application of a dressing of balanced fertilisers at 4 oz. per sq. yd. being worked in.

From this early stage the plants should be sprayed regularly to combat pests and diseases with a combination of J fl. oz. of lindane emulsion, 1|- oz. of thiram powder, and 4 gallons of water.

Soil Fungus

Every year the number and variety of plants which die for no apparent reason seems to increase steadily. The trouble is most prevalent after prolonged wet weather and under poorly drained soil conditions.

Two widespread fungi, phytophthora and verticillium, are known to travel through the soil under moist conditions and over a hundred hosts are known. Where plants die and on inspection their roots are found to have rotted •or show dark stains in the tissue one of these soil fungi, associated with poor drainage, will probably be the trouble.

In an attempt to stop the spread of these fungi within the soil and to disinfect the soil for replanting, copper oxychloride should be applied. The application can be either as a soil drench, 1 lb. of copper oxychloride in 10 gallons of water to 5 sq. yds. being used, or as a dust at 1 lb. of copper oxychloride to 5 sq. yds. The dust can be watered in or allowed to leach into the soil.

Cypress Canker

A survey made during the last 5 years has shown that a fungus referred to as cypress canker is attacking many members of the cypress family throughout the country. Chamaecyparis lawsoniana and its varieties are particularly susceptible. The fungus spreads over the bark and produces cankers which cause death of any twigs and branches which become encircled, and may eventually kill trees. The cankers frequently exude gum.

Trees which have been severely attacked should be removed and burnt. If infection is noticed at a very early stage when only a few small branches have turned olive or brown before the leaves are shed, the diseased wood should be cut well below the cankered

area and burnt. Sprays of bordeaux mixture should then be applied every 6 months to reduce the spread of infection. Layering of Shrubs Shrubs which have young, vigorous growth near ground level are the most suitable for increase by layering. These include rhododendrons, camellias, rhus, lopsis enkianthus, viburnums, hamamelis, and garrya. A hole should be dug below the branch to be layered and compost should be added where the branch is to lie. The branch should be slit or damaged on the top of the prospective root area and pegged down in the hole with wire. When the hole has been firmly filled it should be left undisturbed for at least a year. In the summer, watering during dry periods is advisable. Root Cuttings Root cuttings, from 2 to 5 in. long, depending on the plant, can be inserted in September and will quickly develop growth shoots at the top of the cutting. The cuttings need to be i to i in. thick and should be inserted in a sandy compost with the top of the cutting at soil level. Shrubs, herbaceous plants, and alpines, including sumach, Daphne. genkwa, verbascum, anchusa, eryngium, oriental poppy, Anemone pulsatilla, phlox, and campanula can be increased by this method. Plants for Binding Sand Gardens on very sandy soils need special attention and though autumn planting is preferable, some of the hardier plants can be planted now to help stabilise the soil. Where possible, compost should be worked into the planting hole to help retain moisture during summer. The yellow and pink achillea (yarrow), with their twitchlike' roots, gazania, arctotis, catmint, mesembryanthemum, and aubretia will grow away rapidly and give a colourful display throughout summer. Sawdust or peat used as a mulch or . worked into the topsoil with some blood and bone will improve conditions for growth. Pruning Most hedges, and especially those that have been planted this season, can be pruned back as growth begins. It is a common fault to leave hedges untrimmed for the first season, by which time they are already becoming leggy. Cutting back hard and applying a balanced fertiliser for the first 2 years will assure quick, bushy growth that will give a solid and compact hedge providing good shelter. Evergreen shrubs such as escallonia, buddleia, euonymus, garrya, and many native shrubs should be trimmed to improve their shape. Olearia and Pittosporum Pests In the May issue the clipping of plants which had been attacked by olearia gall midge was mentioned. A

spray of nicotine sulphate applied on a warm spring day will help in killing some of the midges which are still present. Another group of native plants, the pittosporums, is frequently distorted by a pest known as the pittospo r u m chermid. These insects, which are most numerous and vigorous in September, are not unlike scale insects at first sight and form a pit where each one settles on the under side of the foliage. Young trees which have been attacked make little growth and it is advisable to spray now • with lindane emulsion or lime sulphur. In the Glasshouse

In the glasshouse all varieties of annuals can now be sown. The seed should be sown thinly and after being lightly covered with compost should be watered by soaking the box in a container of water until the moisture shows through the surface of the soil. The . box should be placed on the bench and covered with glass and paper until germination has occurred. The paper and glass can then be removed. The house should be well ventilated during the day and closed in the late afternoon to retain the warmth overnight. . Tuberous begonias and gloxinias should be started into growth in boxes of moist leaf mould or compost. As the roots develop they should be potted into a compost which is high in organic matter. General As the flowering of spring bedding plants wanes, they should be removed and the beds can be prepared for summer flowering plants. In colder districts fuchsias and hydrangeas can be pruned now. The severity of pruning will depend on the vigour of . the plant; vigorous plants should be left with more young 1 -year-old wood for flowering than weaker plants. If white cottony cushion scale is present on hydrangeas, sprays of summer oil should be applied. Cuttings of dahlias can be rooted in sand where a little bottom heat is available. As growth begins, dahlia tubers can be divided ready for replanting. The division of perennial plants including scabious, pyrethrum,

michaelmas daisy, and phlox should be completed soon. Cuttings of delphiniums, lupins, and phlox can be rooted in sand. Evergreen climbers such as Hardenbergia monophylla, honeysuckle, and ivy can be trimmed back now. Ivy plants are inclined to become top heavy, but if they are cut back hard, young shoots will quickly develop and refurnish the support. Young seedlings can be pricked out into boxes and spaced 2 to 3 in. apart. The John Innes compost is suitable for most annual seedlings. It consists of 7 parts of good turfy loam, 3 parts of compost, peat, leaf mould, or well rotted cow manure, and 2 parts of coarse sand. To every bushel of the mixture, about the amount which will fill an apple case, add f oz. of lime and 5 oz. of a base fertiliser, which can be made by thoroughly mixing 2 oz. of dried blood, 2 oz. of superphosphate, and 1 oz. of sulphate of potash. Garden pools which have become overcrowded can be cleaned out and replanted. A light dressing of bonedust can be given to established water plants. A number of bulbs that can be planted now for flowering over the summer and autumn include gladiolus, acidanthera, agapanthus, canna, galtonia, and crinum. It may be necessary to stake young rose growths in some districts. The young foliage should be kept covered with thiram, captan, or copper oxychloride as a protection against fungous diseases such as black spot. Sprays of lindane or malathion should be used where aphids are present;