Folding Waste Basket Child’s Seamless Classic Cardigan

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 3, 16 September 1957, Page 317

Folding Waste Basket

Child’s Seamless Classic Cardigan

By

ELEANOR S. CAMPBELL,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, , Auckland THE small waste basket or "tidy" described and illustrated here is very simply made and can look most attractive. It Is very handy in a bedroom or as a receptacle for odd bits and pieces that collect, or it may be a useful travelling companion, for when not in use it may be folded flat to fit snugly into a suitcase. ’T'HIS basket is a novel present for friends and it will have added value for them if they know it has been made by the giver. Materials Required Materials required are as follows: A piece of strong cardboard large enough to cut into eight pieces 7in. x 2Jin. and four pieces lin. x 2Jin.; 1 octagonal piece of 6in. diameter, each side being 2|in. Coverings Various types of covering may be used. 1. Wall paper, to match that of the room in which the waste basket is to be placed. 2. A firm piece of material which can be glued or pasted on to the cardboard. Too light a material may show

marks of the glue or paste, but any reasonably firm material would be satisfactory. One which matches curtains or upholstery will add a pleasant touch. 3. Plastic material with adhesive backing is perhaps the easiest form of covering to apply.

Covering Material Needed If the outside only of the basket is to be covered material required is l/3yd. of 36in. or fyd. of 18in. material or paper. If the inside and outside are to be covered, material required is fyd. of

36in. or ljyds. of 18in. material or paper. ~ A neater and more attractively finished article results if both sides are covered. Adhesive If paper is used, ordinary glue or flour and water paste should be satisfactory. If material is used, a little more care is needed. A good, firm glue can be used, or there is on the market a type of adhesive which is very useful for sticking together various types of materials, upholstery, carpets, mats, etc. If plastic material with an adhesive backing is used, no other adhesive is necessary. Method The cardboard must be cut to the required sizes. It is worth while taking a little time in making accurate measurements and clean cuts at this stage, as this will ensure neatly fitting pieces in the finished product. The octagonal base in particular needs careful attention and accurate measurements. A good way to cut the cardboard is to place the large piece flat on a wooden table or bench. Measure the pieces carefully and pencil in the outlines. Then place a ruler carefully along the pencilled lines and take a very sharp knife, press it down firmly, and draw it along the edge of the ruler. This should cut through the main thickness of the cardboard and taking up the cardboard and bending it back along the . cut lines should result in a clean edge.

Before cutting is attempted care should be taken that the table is well protected, or that the surface is suitable for cutting on. Once the pieces are cut into the correct shape the next step, is to cover them. For the octagonal base cut a piece of covering material exactly the same shape but about lin. larger all round.

Joining a Skein of Wool TTHE reverse side of a hand-knitted garment is not always as neat as it A might be because of protruding ends where a new skein of wool has been started. This method will not only get rid of the ends, but will avoid also those few, thickened stitches where the end of the old skein and the beginning of the new one have been knitted together. For the last 3in. to 4in. at the end of the skein and a similar length at the beginning of the new skein split the wool into two strands. Break off one strand of each (A and B), then place the remaining strands alongside each other (as shown in diagram above), and roll them together between the hands. A continuous thread is formed which can be knitted without leaving any trace of the join.

—MAUD B. STRAIN,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology,

Department of Agriculture, Dunedin

Place the cardboard base firmly in the centre of the material. If glue or other adhesive is being used, brush it carefully and evenly all over one side of the base and press that side down on to the material. Then, with a pair of scissors, make a neat cut in from the outside corner of each of the eight angles of the covering into the angles of the base. Brush the paste or glue evenly all round the edges of the card-

board base and then turn in neatly and ■ stick down the covering on the top side. Then cut another piece of material or paper exactly fitting the base, apply the paste to the base, and stick ; the covering neatly but firmly on to it. If self-adhesive plastic is being used, no glue or paste need be applied; gentle, even pressure of the plastic on to the cardboard will suffice. Care should be taken, however, to press it firmly all over, not allowing any air bubbles or wrinkles to form. On one end of four of the rectangular pieces ■of cardboard glue firmly face to face one of the four small (2|in. x lin.) pieces of cardboard as indicated by the dotted lines on the diagram on page 317. These four small pieces are steps to support the bottom. Be sure these are firmly set before covering. Cut eight strips of the covering material to fit each rectangular piece of cardboard and stick it on firmly and neatly. Crease the covering along the top edge of each step so that it forms a tiny ledge. The next step is to cut the covering material for the outside of the basket. Cut a long strip of material 9in. or lOin. wide by 22in. long. Brush the glue or paste evenly on the backs of the rectangular strips of cardboard, then place the strips carefully and evenly in a row along the centre of the strip of material or paper. Each alternate strip of cardboard must be one with a little ledge on it. An even amount of covering material should overlap the top and bottom edges of the strips, and. these edges should be absolutely even. About lin. to 2in. of material should extend from the end of the eight strips. If a very slight space is left between each rectangular strip of cardboard, this will ensure more ease in folding. Pull the material over the top and bottom edges and stick down firmly. Then stand the pieces up and pull the two free ends together so that the whole forms a rectangular tube. Pull the free end of the covering material across neatly and stick it down firmly on to the adjoining strip. This should make a neat and invisible join. Next push down the base into the centre so that it rests on the four little ledges already prepared. Cut a strip of the covering material, about 2jin. x 4in., to form a hinge. Stick one half firmly on to the inside of the basket, attaching the other end equally firmly to the base. This forms the hinge for folding the base. To fold up the basket simply push up the base from the bottom and press the basket out flat. Photographs by Sparrow.

NO fancy stitches are required for the child's warm and comfortable cardigan instructions for making which are. given here, but the finished garment is very attractive and is unusual in that it is seamless. Instructions for three sizes 28in. chest, 30in. chest, and 32in. chest—are given. ABBREVIATIONS: K„ knit; p., purl; st., stitch (es); rep., repeat; cont., continue; st.st., stocking stitch; tog., together; dec., decreas(ing); si., slip; p. 5.5.0., pass slipped st. over. Materials: 7oz. of 3-ply wool; 2 No. 11 and 2 No. 13 knitting needles; 4 No. 11 and 4 No. 13 knitting needles for sleeves; 3 short No. 13 needles for front borders, and 6 buttons. Measurements: Length, 19 Jin.; chest, 30in.; sleeve seam, 15in. (adjustable). Tension: 8 st. to lin. 28in. chest: As in pattern but on No. 12 needles with all ribbing on No. 13 needles. Length: 19in. Tension: 8J st. to lin. Sleeves: As in pattern (adjustable). 30in. chest: As in pattern. Length: 19Jin. . 32in. chest: As in pattern but on No. 10 needles with all ribbing on No. 13 needles. Length: 20in. Tension: 7 J st. to lin. Sleeves: As in pattern (adjustable). Pocket Linings Using two No. 13 needles cast on 30 st. and work in k. 1, p. 1 rib for 4in. Leave stitches on a spare needle. Work another piece in same way. The Cardigan Now begin at lower edge, using two No. 13 needles and cast on 255 st. Ist row: * K. 1, p. 1. Rep. from ♦ to last st., k. 1. 2nd row: * P. 1, k. 1. Rep. from * to last st., p. 1. Rep. these 2 rows for Jin.,, ending with a 2nd row of rib if buttonholes are to be in right front or Ist row of rib if buttonholes are to be in left front. Next row: Rib 5, cast off 3 st., rib to end. Next row: Rib to last 5 st., cast on 3, rib 5. (This completes a buttonhole.) Cont. in rib, working 2 more buttonholes at intervals of ljin. from previous one, until work measures 4in., ending with a 2nd row of rib. Next row: Rib 28, cast off 30, rib to last 59 st., cast off 30, rib to end.

Next row: Rib 29, work in rib across stitches for a pocket lining, rib to last 28 st., work in rib across, stitches for a second pocket lining, rib to end. Next row: Rib 14, change to a No. 11 needle, k. 2 tog., k. to last 14 st., change to a short No. 13 needle, rib to end. (254 st.) Next row: Rib 14, change to a No. 11 needle, p. to last 14 st., change to a No. 13 needle, rib to end. Keeping 14 st. at each end of row in rib on No. 13 needles throughout, cont. in st.st. with No. 11 needles for main part until work measures 12in. from cast-on edge, ending with a p. row and making 3 more buttonholes in right front border at regular intervals of 2fin. (instead of ljin. measured over st.st.). Shaping the Fronts Next row: Rib 14, k. 2 tog., k. to last 16 st., k. 2 tog., rib 14. Work 8 rows in rib and st.st.

, Next row: Rib 14, p. 2 tog., p. to last 16 st., p. 2 tog., rib 14. Next row: Rib 14, k. 43, turn, work on these stitches only for right front, leaving other stitches on a spare needle. Cont. in st.st. and rib, dec. 1 st. inside front ribbing on Bth row and on every following 9th row until 50 st. remain, then cont. without shaping until work measures 19|in. from cast-on edge, ending at front edge. Next row: Rib 14, turn, work a further 2in. in rib on these 14 st. Leave all stitches on a spare needle. Return to main stitches, slip .first 16 st. on to a safety pin, rejoin wool, k. 104 st., turn. Work in st.st. on these stitches for back until work measures 19Jin., ending with a p. row.

Next row: K. 36, cast off 32, k. to end. Leave two sets of 36 st. on a spare needle. Return to remaining stitches, slip next 16 st. on to a second safety pin, rejoin wool, and using No. 11 needles k. to last 14 st., rib 14 with a No. 13 needle. Now work on these stitches for left front as given for right front. Place corresponding shoulder stitches and neck-band stitches tog. and graft. The Sleeves Using 4 No. 11 needles and with right side of work facing slip 16 st. at under-arm on to 1 needle, then k. up 96 st. evenly round armhole edge (48 st. each side of shoulder seam), then k. 8 st. for under-arm on to 3rd

needle, thus making centre of underarm stitches end of round. Ist round: K. 7, k. 2 tog., k. 61, turn. 2nd row: P. 28, turn. 3rd row: K. 32, turn. 4th row: P. 36, turn. Cont. in this way, taking up 4 st. more on every row until 14 rows of shaping have been worked, the last row being p. 76, turn. Next row: K. these 76 st., then k. 9, si. 1, k. 1, p. 5.5.0., k. 7. Cont. in rounds, shaping under-arm gusset thus: — Ist round: K. 6, k. 2 tog., k. to last 8 st., si. 1, k. 1, p. 5.5.0., k. 6. 2nd round: K. 5, k. 2 tog., k. to last 7 st., si. 1, k. 1, p.SiS.o., k. 5. 3rd round: K. 4, k. 2 tog., k. to last 6 st., si. 1, k. 1, p. 5.5.0., k. 4. 4th round: K. 3, k. 2 tog., k. to last 5 st., si. 1, k. 1, p. 5.5.0., k. 3.

Cont. thus, working 1 st. less at each end of round between shaping until all under-arm stitches are dec., last round being: K. 2 tog., k. to last 2 st., si. 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o. Cont. in rounds of st.st., dec. 1 st. at beginning and end of every following 7th round until 62 st. remain. Cont. without shaping until work measures 12in. from end of under-arm gusset shaping, finishing end of round. Change to No. 13 needles and work in rounds of k. 1, p. 1 rib for 3in. Cast off loosely in rib. To Make up Press work lightly with a hot iron over a damp cloth. Sew neck band along back of neck edge. Sew pocket linings on wrong side of work. Sew on buttons to match with buttonholes.