Decorative Plants in the Home

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 3, 16 September 1957, Page 307

Decorative Plants in the Home

THE modern types of house plants which have become so popular ■ ■ overseas are becoming more readily available in New Zealand and are creating much interest. In this article K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, discusses their general requirements and care. The various types of plants are also described. The section on garden work for October is by Rosalie A. Campion, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Wellington. ■ •' '' -■ ' INTEREST in house plants in New Zealand has never been comparable to that in. some overseas countries. The way of living and climate have probably much to do with it, as most New Zealanders live in houses surrounded by gardens; even many flat dwellers have a garden plot for their use, and in general most New Zealanders are good gardeners. Furthermore, the climate is such that almost everywhere in the country it is possible to obtain some material for making up indoor decorations throughout the year. In many overseas countries conditions are very different. Large blocks of flats are common in the bigger cities and though the tendency now is to have gardens round such buildings wherever it is possible, these are communal and do not provide material for cutting. Cut flowers are bought to a much greater extent than here, but in addition pot plants are now relied on to brighten the homes. , . Flowering plants are used in season, but foliage plants are perhaps more popular. The various-shaped leaves and

the many colourings which can be obtained make certain types suitable for any particular position, and for modern homes they are excellent. No longer are they placed in a row on the windowsill, but in groups in the window, on special tables, or in stands, and large specimens are placed on the floor to put life into a corner or a wall. General Requirements When a nurseryman grows plants in a glasshouse he attempts to provide the most suitable Conditions for their growth, and regulates the temperature, light intensity, and humidity according to their particular requirements. The same care should be given to indoor plants, and in general the plants which are chosen will tolerate the conditions met with. Light If pot plants are kept near windows during the warmer seasons, the sun shining through the glass is liable to burn

the foliage, especially where any drops of moisture are present. Few plants require full sunlight and most prefer the sun’s rays to be broken, as is done by curtain net. Most foliage plants will grow satisfactorily without sun provided the light is good; it will often be found that they turn their leaves toward the windows, a fact that can be taken advantage of if they are placed near a wall away from a window. Others, especially ferns and climbers such as ivy, will tolerate darker positions. Temperature Temperature should be as even as possible; preferably slightly lower during darkness, and great variations should be avoided. Central heating is, of course, the ideal. No plants will be happy in a room which is kept just warm during the day, provided with a roasting fire during the .evening, and gradually cooled off during the night. A cooler room heated -only by the sun would be much more .suitable. •

.Atmosphere A stuffy atmosphere suits neither .humans nor plants, and adequate vendilation should be provided for change ,of air. Draughts, however, should be avoided. Humidity, which plants prefer at a relatively high level, is a problem. A ’humid atmosphere is not desired in .any room, and all that can be aimed .at is to create a suitable micro-climate .or localised condition round the plants. One of the best ways to do this is to have a deep tray made for the plants. Galvanised iron is suitable and can be painted or cased in wood to fit the surroundings. When plants are placed in the tray the spaces between them should be filled up with fine ; shingle. Not only will the plants require less watering when plunged in. this manner and look more attractive because the pots do not show, but if the shingle is kept moist some water will evaporate when the air is warm and thereby raise the humidity round -.the plants.

Gas can be a problem; plants have often died as a result of leaking taps or joints. Arrangements and Containers It has been mentioned that plants often look better if grouped together and in a previous paragraph it has been suggested that they should be placed in a shingle-filled tray. There are, however, positions where a single plant is preferable. Larger plants, especially, are attractive on their own. Climbing plants look well on the plain walls which are popular and can be placed either in wall pots, suspended on a bracket, or on a small shelf. It is sometimes necessary to provide support for plants grown in pots. For climbers it is very tempting to use a strip of transparent adhesive tape, but either this soon comes off or it may be so effective that the paint or wall paper comes off with it.. Suitable stakes should be used: split bamboo and plastic or plastic-covered knitting needles are suitable. The latter are available in many colours, and if they are chosen to match the background, they will be inconspicuous.

Plastic pots are becoming more popular than the once universally used clay pots. They are easily kept clean and they do not draw moisture from the plant. The latter may not be an advantage as will be understood from, the comments on humidity. More overwatering is done where plastic pots are used than with clay pots. Whichever pots are used they should be provided with a drainage hole for best results. Hanging baskets are best used outside. They have a tendency to drip, which is not satisfactory above covered or polished floors. Watering It is frequently asked: how often should a pot plant be watered? No definite advice can be given, as it depends on the requirements of specific plants under varied circumstances. It is necessary to get to know the plants and judge their need according to the temperature, humidity, and stage of growth. It is, however, safer to water a little less than required than too much, particularly in winter or. when a plant is not growing vigorously. 'u

When watering, it should be done generously, so that the soil becomes moistened right through, after which the plant should. be left until water is required again. If a plant has become really dry, it is best to soak the whole pot in a bucket or tub of water. That method is the only thorough one for a hanging basket. In general, it is not advisable to leave water in the saucers. Only the lower part of the pots draws the moisture and this portion will in fact be permanently saturated, the result being that the soil becomes sour. Feeding Plants cannot live on water alone and even if plant food has been sup-

plied in the soil, it will become depleted after a while, both through usage and by the leaching caused when watering. Nitrogen will probably be the element in shortest supply, but it is generally best to supply a mixture. The foliar fertilisers now available are very convenient to use on pot plants. They can be sprayed on to the leaves for quick response or can be watered in and will then be absorbed by the roots. These materials provide the easiest method of feeding pot plants and they have been found very effective for this purpose. Feeding should be done judiciously. It is seldom required during the .first 2 months after potting, but later can be done every week or two while growth is vigorous. During winter it

should be done less frequently, except where plants are growing under optimum conditions in a well-heated room with an even temperature. Potting New Plants The John Innes potting compost is the most suitable to use when new plants are being potted. With only a few plants, it is probably best to purchase some ready mixed, as it is not easy for the home gardener to obtain the right ingredients and attend to sterilisation. The John Innes potting compost consists of the following:— 7 parts (by volume) of loam 3 parts (by volume) of peat or leafmould 2 parts (by volume) of coarse sand

For each bushel add l|oz. of dried blood, ljoz. of superphosphate, foz. of sulphate of potash, and foz. of lime Sterilisation is dealt with fully in Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 363, “Disinfection of Nursery Soil”, which is available free from the nearest office of the Department of Agriculture.

To facilitate uniform packing in the pot the compost should have the correct moisture content when used. A simple test is to squeeze a handful; it should keep its shape but be broken up easily when touched. The size of the pot to be used must be governed by the size and type of the plant, but it is seldom advisable to use a pot larger than necessary. It is better to use a smaller pot and “pot on” to a larger size as the plant grows. When that is done the whole clump of soil becomes filled with roots, not just the outside as might be the case otherwise. Adequate drainage should be provided in the bottom of the pots. For a small pot a single crock covering the hole is enough, but for a large one a layer of crocks or small rough stones should also be provided. In the operation of potting some compost should be placed in the bottom of the pot before the plant is put in; compost should then be filled in round it. After it is packed with fingers and thumbs the pot should be lifted by the rim by both hands and given a sharp tap or two on the. bench to settle the soil, particularly in the bottom. Potting on Young, vigorously growing plants may require to be potted on to a larger size during summer, but older plants are more commonly potted on in late spring. For this the John Innes compost should also be used, but instead of adding the fertilisers as listed, the quantities should be doubled; for very strong-growing plants they can be trebled. On the development of the roots must rest the decision whether potting on to a larger size is required or repotting into the same size will suffice. The pot should be removed, as shown in the illustration on page 309, and. the roots examined. If the roots form a tight ball, potting on -to a larger pot is generally required; and it is first , a matter of trying to remove some of the old soil by squeezing the clump lightly. Potting on is done like potting up, but for the packing of the soil a rammer is necessary. Any piece- of wood of the appropriate thickness will do; it should be possible to get it between the pot and the roots without damaging them. Repotting If it has been found that a clump when removed from the pot is not full of roots, then the plant should not be potted on to a larger pot. Instead, some of the soil should be removed carefully so that the roots are not damaged and it should be repotted in the same-sized pot, or if the root system is poor, it may even be preferable to use a smaller size. Some root

pruning may then be beneficial; a few long roots are of little ' benefit to a plant; it is generally better to trim them back, which may result in several new ones forming. When the roots are poor it will often be advisable to reduce the size of the plant by pruning. A balance will then be obtained between top and roots, the plant being given a greater chance for proper development. Pruning can also be done with many plants if they. are growing too large for their position. They can be repotted and the roots pruned as well as the top; this is one of the methods used in growing the dwarf trees so popular with the Japanese. Preparing Hanging Baskets Hanging baskets are most satisfactory if they are prepared with firm pieces of moss of the type found in semi-shaded bush. This kind is better than sphagnum moss, which disintegrates after a while. The moss should be placed with the green side out. Moss of a good thickness is preferable, but if it appears too thin in places, a double lining can be used. It is, of course, easier to use large pieces of moss, but it can be joined quite satisfactorily provided an overlap is made. The top edge should come well over and be doubled back into the basket, where it will be held firm by the compost. Such a rolled edge will not only make watering easier, but will give the basket more finish. Baskets should be planted up in the same manner . and with the same compost as detailed for pots. General Care For the first few weeks after potting special care should be given. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, but overwatering must be avoided as it is detrimental to development of new roots. On warm days syringing of the foliage will be beneficial; draughts should definitely be avoided. Pot plants should be kept clean at all times by the removal of dead and dying leaves and flowers, not just because they look unsightly but because they may provide a home for disease organisms. Diseases will then generally cause little trouble, because the plants are grown isolated from others. Insect pests may, however, be introduced. Common ones are sucking insects, such as aphids, and sometimes scales and mites; caterpillars can also cause trouble. Caterpillars can usually be kept in check by hand picking and for the others the usual certified insecticides are • effective. Malathion has been found effective on most of these pests, but it cannot be recommended as safe on succulents and orchids. For development of bushy plants it is sometimes necessary to pinch the growing points out. of the stronger shoots. This can be done at an early

stage, but if it is desired to grow additional plants, such shoots can often provide material for cuttings. Propagation was dealt with in an article in the December 1956 issue of the “Journal”. The topsoil should be stirred up occasionally for aeration and to prevent slime and moss forming; this can be done with a small stick or the point of a knife. It also gives the plants a well-kept look.

Types of Plants A much greater selection of plants is available now compared to that in the era of the aspidistra, geranium, and palm. These plants are still used, but they are not predominant as they were earlier, and now they are used in association with other plants. There is a great range available already and more are being introduced by nurserymen specialising in these plants. Some of those which are readily available are discussed in their various groups. Flowering Plants Flowering plants are generally the most colourful subjects; they are, however, mainly seasonal and showy for a limited period only. The many well-known subjects in this group include begonia, bougainvillea, bulbs of many kinds, calceolaria, cyclamen, fuchsia, gloxinia, heliotrope, hibiscus, hydrangea, isoloma, pelargonium, and streptocarpus. The shrimp or lobster plant (Beloperone guttata) has become very popular. In the north it is hardy and can be grown as a small shrub outside, but it is equally suitable for growing in pots indoors. The common name has been given it because the inflorescence resembles a shrimp ,or small lobster. The balsams (Impatiens holsti) have always been popular, but a new dwarf type which has recently come on the market overseas should be an improvement for growing in pots. It can be raised easily from seed and some interesting colours may be obtained. It is listed in English seed catalogues. ' Saintpaulia or African violet is available in many varieties. It is charming as a small plant and if grown under, suitable conditions will produce masses of small flowers. Too often, however, in unsatisfactory environments the plants are disappointing. They detest changes of conditions. Temperature should be steady at a moderate level not much below 50 degrees F.; they should not be allowed to dry out, but overwatering can be equally detrimental. Humidity

should be regulated according to the temperature; when the plants are growing under high temperatures the atmosphere should never be dry. They require moderate light, but not direct sunlight. A great number can be used and delightful* arrangements can also be made by flowering various bedding plants out. of season: cinerarias, schizanthus, primulas, large-flowered petunias, french marigolds, celosias, nemesias, and dwarf salvias are examples, but many others can be grown successfully. Ferns Though these can be classified as foliage plants, they are . considered separately, because their requirements vary from those of most other plants.

Ferns are mainly found as undergrowth in the bush, a fact which will give an indication of the conditions they prefer./ They will tolerate darker-growing conditions than most other plants, and when temperatures are high they require frequent waterings; they prefer a humid atmosphere. There are many true ferns available. “Asparagus ferns” (Asparagus sprengeri, A. plumosus, and A. asparagoides (smilax) ) are not true ferns, but are closely related to the . culinary asparagus; they are much hardier and will tolerate drier conditions and direct sunlight. Foliage Plants Foliage plants are a group of house plants which are creating much interest not only in New Zealand but overseas. Some of these plants do flower, an additional attraction, but in the main they are grown for foliage. Not only is the foliage varied in size and shape, but the range in variegation and colour is , large. There are many shades of green together with grey and silver tonings, yellow, and gold, and a range of pinks, reds, and purple. Each one - may be delightful on its own, but its full beauty is seen when it is associated and the contrasts featured. The following are among the best known in this group: — Aralia sieboldi (now named Fatsia japonica) is an old favourite. The large, green leaves give. contrast to other plants. It is hardy. The begonias form a group of their own. Most of them have - attractive

flowers as well as coloured foliage. They range in size from quite small plants to the shrubby types growing several feet high. The billbergias are quaint plants.’ The coarse leaves form a tube from which the flower stems emerge. The flowers are very showy. Billbergias require little water during winter. There are several varieties available. Calatheas are tropical plants and should be given a warm situation. Different kinds available all feature the tall-growing leaves with different markings. The camphor tree ( Cinnamomum camphora) makes a lovely small tree in a pot. It develops a stem and has pale green, aromatic foliage. Coleus are well known for their bright foliage. They are easily raised from seed, after which the best types can be perpetuated by cuttings. The crotons (Codiaeum sp.) are among the most colourful foliage plants. They are tropical shrubs and demand a warm situation. Dieffenbachia is another tropical plant. There are different species available with large, irregularly variegated foliage. A number of dracaenas are available. They have sword-like leaves and are somewhat similar to the New Zealand cabbage tree, though smaller in habit and more graceful; some are vividly coloured. • Euonymus japonica, the evergreen spindleberry, makes a good house

plant. It is available in several types with white and golden variations. A number of Ficus sp. make good specimen plants. F. macrophylla and F. elastica (the rubber tree) are the best known; of the latter a golden, variegated form is much prized overseas and will probably soon be available here. Fittonias are grown for their heavily veined leaves. Grevillea robusta, the Australian silky oak, features finely cut leaves in pale green. It forms a definite stem, but the leaves stay on well. Iresine is a soft-stemmed plant sometimes used in bedding displays. It is available with various coloured foliage in blood red, crimson, carmine, golden, and green. Frequent stopping of the growing points is required to produce a bushy plant. Maranta leuconeura is a dwarf plant grown for its curiously marked leaves. It will not tolerate cold winters. The mountain pawpaw (Carica candamarcensis), which is grown outdoors in warmer parts of the country, makes a good house plant somewhat resembling aralia but with a thicker stem. It is easy to raise from seed and is quick growing. Nile grass (Cyperus sp.) has palmlike foliage but a bushy habit. It is very decorative and useful among other plants. As it is a member of the sedge family, it responds to a plentiful supply of water. Peperomia sandersi is the best known of this genus, but others are

available. They are all of compact habit and have fleshy, marked leaves. They require warmth. Pileas are soft-stemmed plants. The artillery plant has fern-like foliage and is named from the manner in which the pollen sacks explode. The aluminium plant has green leaves with aluminium-coloured marking. Pineapples make interesting plants for the home. The shoot on a fresh pineapple can be grown as a cutting and the plant may flower; in some instances under good conditions fruit has developed in about 3 years. Sansevieria is grown for its stiff, erect, strap-like leaves. The usual type has silver marking on the green leaves; the golden form is superior but in short supply. Variegated forms of abutilon and fuchsias can also be included in this group, as their foliage is usually more effective than their flowers. Native Plants There are many native plants which, because of their beautiful foliage, are very suitable, as house plants. A few are suggested, but many more can be used. Akeake (Dodonaea viscosa) is available in both green and purple forms. It is light in structure with narrow leaves.The cabbage tree (Cordyline sp.) is available in several species, one with bronze leaves. The variegated form of taupata (Coprosma baueri variegated) is slightly pendulous and a very useful subject. There are several “five-fingers” belonging to the genus Nothopanax and the five-fingered lancewood Pseudopanax lessoni; the leaves of the latter are more finely cut and of a darker green colour than the former. The variegated varieties of flax (Phormium tenax) are smaller than the common one and make excellent pot plants. The prostrate fuchsia (.Fuchsia procumbens)' has very fine foliage, but the unique flowers and large, reddish fruits are a special attraction. The lancewoods (Pseudopanax sp.) in the juvenile form make some of the finest plants for a contemporary home. The species vary in colour. Parapara (Pisonia brunoniana), and especially the variegated form, is known for its large, decorative leaves. Various Pittosporum species are suitable both in their green and variegated forms. The puka . (Meryta sinclairi) is useful both as a small and larger plant and grows well indoors. The thicktextured, large, green leaves are its most attractive feature.

Puriri (Vitex lucens), which has dark . green, glossy leaves, . can be flowered in pots. It develops quite a spreading habit which is unusual for trees grown in containers. ; ■ Ramarama or New Zealand myrtle (Myrtus bullata) has reddish-brown, crinkled leaves which are very attractive/ The red beech (Nothofagus fusca) is valued for its fine foliage. The rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum) , with its drooping branches and especially in its juvenile form, is one of the most graceful house plants. Titoki (Alectryon excelsurff) has distinctive, dark green foliage. Climbers For use as specimen plants the climbers are perhaps the most decorative. A great range is available. Among some of those mentioned great variation is found within the species. The largest group is the philodendrons. The most vigorous is Monster deliciosa, with large, deeply cut, dark green leaves. It has aerial roots, which are an added attraction. It is not a true philodendron, but is sometimes named as . such in overseas literature..

The true Philodendron is a large genus of climbers with dark green leaves in many shapes, both deeply cut and with entire edges. They are tropical plants and will not tolerate cold conditions. The variegated philodendrons belong to the genus Scindapsus, but are much like true philodendrons in habit and requirements. Next in diversity is ivy (Hedera sp.). There are various variegated forms, but also species with different types of green leaves. They are among the most hardy plants and will tolerate fairly dark positions. Some Virginia creepers can also be used as house plants, but they lose their leaves at the end of summer. They compensate, however, by their glorious autumn colour and the fresh green shoots in spring. Closely related to the Virginia creepers are the Cissus, of which several species are available. They are vigorous-growing climbers with very decorative leaves. The climbing fig (Ficus pumila minima) is very dainty, with small, green leaves. The “Wandering Jew” (Tradescantia fluminensis) is well known in its white or golden, variegated forms. The one with silvery variegation and purple reverse is Zebrina pendula. Polygonum capitatum is . rather similar in habit, but not so fragile in the stems. It has a curious V marking on the leaves, which turn reddish if the plant is grown in the sun. The wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is well known. To get the best view of

the flowers it should be trained so that each inflorescence is exposed. The flowers should never be picked, as on this plant a new inflorescence will form each year on the old flower stems. There are various passion flowers (Passiflora sp.) which are not too rampant for indoor growing. Saxifraga sarmentosa, better known as “Mother of Thousands” or “Aaron’s Beard”, is an attractive trailing plant. The leaves are silvery marked with purple reverse. The offsets are suspended on very thin runners. Similar in nature is the rosary vine (Ceropegia woodi) , but it is not so rampant, forming single runners on which the fleshy, grey leaves and curious flowers form. Cobaea scandens can be grown as an annual vine inside. It is very vigorous and can be trained to frame a window in one season. Succulents and Cacti Succulents and cacti are ideal for growing indoors and enthusiasts do not object to the thorns. Many are, however, quite safe to handle and they are ideal because they require little attention. Some are useful for growing together in bowls, where they will look attractive for a long time.

Garden Work for October

As the days lengthen and the soil becomes warmer weed seeds begin to germinate, and it is at this early stage that they are most easily destroyed. Where beds have been planted symmetrically the regular, shallow use of the push hoe gives excellent results. It is desirable, however, to remove the young plants which the hoe chops off, as there is generally sufficient moisture at this season to allow the plants to re-root and grow a seed head. In mixed borders the use of a hoe is often hazardous and the young growing tips of plants are easily removed by mistake. A light hand fork can be used carefully among the plants and the weeds removed from the loose soil. As there will not yet be any seed-head formation, the weeds can be placed in the compost bin. Seed Sowing Outdoors Sowing of seed of a wide variety of annuals should be continued. Though it is necessary to use mainly those plants which have been proved to do well in the district, seeds of a wide variety of the less known annuals are worth a trial. These include alonsoa, . cynoglossum, limnanthes, ursinia, and phacelia, which should be sown where they are to flower; calandrinia, gilia, kochia, littonia,

and venidi u m, which are halfhardy plants requiring a little extra warmth , and which preferably should be sown in boxes; browallia, a bedding plant for a sunny position in rich, free loam; and nierembergia and matricaria, • which are dwarf edging plants . for growing under good, average conditions. Plants which are attractive and useful both ,in the garden and in the home such as the ornamental kales/ beets, gourds, sweet corns, and the castor-oil plant (Ricinus communis) can be grown easily from seeds sown as the ground becomes warmer and more easily worked. If seed of the dainty everlasting flowers acroclinium, rhodanthe, and helichrysum is sown now, they will make welcome additions to the material available for winter decorations. This is a very desirable aspect of gardening where winter flowers are somewhat limited, and those plants which can be attractive during the growing season as well as preserved are worth a place in most gardens. Preparing Beds for Planting The spring bedding plants will by now be deteriorating, and healthy plants should be removed and placed on the compost heap. All diseased material ' should be burnt. Where narcissi and tulips have been used for spring bedding and it is desired to replant the beds for a summer display, it will be necessary to remove them after flowering. The bulbs build up their food resources for the next season after flowering, so it is necessary to replant them in a vacant and inconspicuous area for their cycle to be completed. Great care should be taken to see that the roots are not disturbed by the removal of the soil. If the bulbs are transferred in seed boxes, less damage will occur and the brittle foliage of tulips is not so likely to snap at the neck. Beds which were heavily manured in autumn need be given only a light dusting of superphosphate before planting, whereas beds which have grown a demanding crop such as wallflowers or are to grow a hungry crop such as dahlias should have any available animal manure or compost dug into the top layer of soil. Bedding

schemes should be arranged •so that plants of geraniums, petunias, or French marigolds do not follow heavy manuring, which tends to give luxuriant leafy growth and fewer flowers. After being dug, the beds should be firmed and levelled so that they are slightly higher than the grass verge. The shoulder of the bed can be firmed, the head of the rake being used. When transplanting is to be done the plants should be well soaked the previous day so that they suffer less check when they are moved. When boxed plants are being used the box should be held at an angle of 45 degrees and given a sharp jolt against the ground. This will loosen the rootlets from the box and enable the plants to be taken from the end of the box more easily. The plants should be firmly planted 9in. to 2ft. apart, depending on their habit of growth, and lightly watered to settle them in position. Planting Chrysanthemums Toward the end of October the young chrysanthemum plants should be set out 18in. apart in their permanent positions. For these gross feeders the ground after being given a light dressing of lime should be enriched with compost or animal manure. A dusting of the following mixed fertiliser should be given to the bed at 4oz. per square yard:— Blood and bone, 4 parts by weight Superphosphate, 2 parts by weight Sulphate of potash 1 part by weight The bed can then be lightly watered to settle the plants in place., A useful combination spray which will keep at bay most of the pests and

diseases which attack chrysanthemums and which should be used every 3 weeks until flowering can be made by freshly mixing the following ingredients: Lindane emulsion, J fl. oz. Thiram wettable powder, l|oz. Water, 4 gallons Dividing and Replanting Dahlias As the risk of late frosts passes, the planting of dahlia tubers should be carried out. Tubers in boxes which have been induced to throw shoots should now be divided. A strong tuber with one or two shoots is all that is required for a good, vigorous plant. Shoots which have developed on old established clumps will benefit from the extra light, air, and nutrients which heavy thinning at this time will produce. Many of the attractive seedling and dwarf dahlias do not require staking, but the taller varieties should be staked at planting. Roses The tender young growths which are developing on the rose bushes are very prone to attacks by rust, aphids, black spot, and mildew. Where the roses are growing near white painted woodwork wet sprays of sulphur or ferbam should not be applied. A suitable dust which could be applied to the roses every 3 weeks, with additional applications after heavy rain, can be made using: — 10 parts of 1 or 2 per cent, lindane dust 9 parts of flowers of sulphur 1 part of 50 per cent, thiram or captan

There are now on the market some very effective dusting machines, which simplify the task of keeping roses healthy. Window Boxes Window boxes can be used to lend a splash of colour, especially to the kitchen windows and service area of the house. A useful arrangement where metal liners are available is to fill these liners with bulbs and springflowering material. At this time of the year the liners can be removed and replaced with a series of pots or another liner containing summerflowering plants such as ivy-leaved and bedding geraniums, catmint, lobelia, petunias, and asparagus ferns. A loam which is rich in organic matter and coarse sand should be used to assist in retaining moisture throughout summer and also to provide good drainage. A light dressing of blood and bone is desirable. Throughout summer the main requirement will be constant watering. If potted plants are used, this will be most easily effected by embedding the pots in sawdust, which should be kept moist. A light surface mulch of sawdust will prevent the soil surface from caking due to the pressure of water. Where sawdust is not available the pots can be soaked periodically in a bucket of water to ensure saturation. Lawns Vigorous lawn growth is now to be expected and it will be necessary to use a grass catcher when the sward is being cut regularly. If spring top-

dressing has been delayed, it should! be done now, a mixture of 3 parts byweight of sulphate of ammonia and 1 part of superphosphate being applied! at loz. per square yard. In addition, to stimulating the growth of the finer and more desirable lawn grasses this; dressing assists in eradicating many weeds, thus avoiding the use of hormone weedkillers. In the restricted area of a small garden the dangers of spray drift and the contamination of containers make the use of hormones: undesirable. Care of New Lawns For the first 6 months of their growing life new lawns require special care. When the grass is lin. to 1 Jin. tall a light rolling will help to consolidate the soil and encourage the young plants to tiller out into bushy growth. After a. few days, when the grass has recovered its erect stature the first cut can be made. The mower must be sharp and set at least Jin. higher than normal, or the plants will be severely damaged. In subsequent cuttings the blade should be gradually lowered. If the new grass shows signs of a yellow or reddish-brown colouring in the leaves, this will probably indicate that the plants will benefit from a dressing of Joz. of sulphate of ammonia per square yard, which can be. repeated every 2 months for the next 6 months. Lightly hose the fertiliser oil the leaves to prevent burning. General Continue the planting of gladiolus for summer flowering. The soil round earlier plantings should be lightly forked. Supporting stakes should be inserted where necessary. Prune the deciduous shrubs after they have flowered to make room for and encourage the growth of young and more vigorous shoots. The Prunus spp. generally do not require more than shaping and the removal of damaged or diseased portions. All large wounds should be covered with petroleum jelly to prevent the entry of fungi while the wound is healing. The staking of perennial plants should keep pace with their growth. Make sure that . tall plants like delphiniums and hollyhocks are staked before spring winds damage them. Many cacti may be reproduced now by taking shoots from any part of the plant and rooting them in small pots. The cuttings should never be inserted deeply in the soil and if support is required, small pieces of bamboo will be satisfactory. If the cut ends exude sap, they should be dipped in powdered charcoal before they are planted. A sharp lookout should be kept for insect pests and fungous diseases, and the appropriate sprays applied immediately.