Work in the Home Garden in October

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 3, 16 September 1957, Page 264

Work in the Home Garden in October

By

A. G. KENNELLY,

Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Dunedin

SPRING is a busy season for most keen home gardeners and, because of the planting and sowing needed, October is usually one of the busiest months. Though killing frosts can be expected in some South Island districts until about the second week in November, in most northern districts and in favourable districts elsewhere first plantings of properly hardened, frost tender plants such as tomatoes, marrows, and cucumbers can be made. Seed of half-hardy and tender subjects such as dwarf and runner beans, sweet corn, cucumbers, pumpkins, and marrows can be sown toward the end of the month. In only a few districts can earlier plantings and sowings of these vegetables be made. Home gardeners who raise their own autumn and winter cabbage, curly kale, broccoli, and brussels sprouts can sow during October or, in most districts, not later than midNovember to have sturdy, well-grown plants for setting out in December or January..

DURING October successional sowings of salad vegetables should be made. Where the ground has warmed enough and frost danger is over seed of half-hardy plants such as dwarf and climbing beans, sweet corn, melons, pumpkins, squash, marrows, and cucumbers can be sown outdoors a few days before the last damaging frost usually occurs. Such early sowings of half-hardy or tender plants should preferably be small, except in the most favoured districts of the North Island, where sowings may begin in late September or early October. Elsewhere ground temperatures . are rarely consistently' high enough for good growth, and loss of or damage to seed, for reasons associated with low temperature, is common. Jerusalem artichokes can still be planted and in some southern districts

it may not be too late early in the month to plant asparagus. Silver beet, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, and even brussels sprouts can be set out if the seedlings are ready, and gaps in previously planted rows can be filled. Successional plantings of early potatoes can be made or second-early or maincrop varieties planted, though where well-sprouted tubers are planted shallowly early in the month, they, like those planted earlier, should be kept earthed up to prevent frost damage. . Preparation of ground for successional sowings should be continued and the soil can be made ready for the planting out of frost-tender subjects. Successional or main-crop sowings of peas, carrots, beetroot, lettuce, turnips, and parsnips can also be made.

Where the soil is not as rich as desirable, plants such as asparagus, spring cabbage, cauliflower, and silver beet will benefit from a weekly application of liquid manure. This can be made by soaking a quantity of animal manure in a large container of water or dissolving loz. of sulphate of ammonia in 2 to 3 gallons of water. The culture of carrots, beetroot, lettuce, Jerusalem artichoke, onions, potatoes, silver beet, and green vegetables for autumn use was discussed in last month’s “Journal”. The September notes are applicable generally to October. Broad Beans Broad bean plants in most districts should now be approaching maturity. Tall varieties can be staked when they are about 3ft. 6in. high. Pinching out of the tops encourages plants to develop sturdy growth and often is sufficient to check an early attack of black aphids, particularly if there are plenty of the aphids’ natural enemies, such as lacewing flies and ladybirds and their larvae, about. In many gardens where tall varieties are grown it is advisable to support the plants as they develop or as they become heavy with pods. One or more strings run along the sides of the row and tied to stakes at intervals of sft. to 6ft. will save the plants from being blown over.

Pests and Diseases Black aphid: This is also known to gardeners as black fly or plant lice and is a common pest of broad beans. Infestation is usually confined at first to the young, tender growth at the tops of plants. Spring-sown plants are affected worse than autumn-sown plants, as the growth on them is usually more tender than that on plants which have over-wintered.

If the plants are tall enough and aphid infestation is noticed when it is light, it can often be destroyed by pinching out the tender growth at the tops of the plants. Aphids can be controlled by lindane, HETP, or nicotine sulphate sprays. To be fully effective nicotine sulphate spray requires an alkaline substance, such as soap, dissolved in the water and to be applied on a hot, still day.

Chocolate spot: Broad beans have tender, easily damaged foliage which reacts by the development of reddish spots or stains to rubbing or similar superficial injury that may be caused by insect pests or diseases. Two parasitic fungi cause superficially similar chocolate-coloured spotting or “blight” on broad beans. .

The commonest injury is caused by the fungous disease Botrytis cinerea Fr., which frequently attacks overwintering broad beans. Where conditions favour it botrytis may be very destructive and cause extensive spotting, blotching, or defoliation. The chocolate-coloured markings on the leaves, leaf stalks, and stems of plants may be superficial or may penetrate some distance. They are commonly found on plants that have been subjected to severe winter weather.

Botrytis is a common cause of nonsetting, as infected flowers usually rot and fall. Its spread is favoured by cool, moist weather. Lack of sufficient phosphate and potash in the soil makes plants more subject to the disease, particularly if the crop is dense and aeration poor and if the soil is poorly drained. A thiram, copper oxychloride, or bordeaux spray (4oz. of bluestone and soz. of hydrated lime to 4 gallons of water) is of value in combating the disease where it is likely to become serious.

However, spraying is rarely necessary, as the disease is largely influenced by the weather. As conditions improve the plants usually develop new, healthy growth and overcome most of the adverse effects of the disease.

The second type of spotting, commonly called bean blight, is due to the fungous disease Ascochyta fabae. It is characterised by the spots having greyish centres and minute pustular fruiting bodies in the central area. Control consists of the use of clean seed, good drainage, long rotations, and the destruction of rubbish.

Frost may also cause reddish discoloration of the stem bases. Rust: The fungous disease rust is characterised by small, dark brown, dusty raised spots (pustules) on the leaves, leaf stalks, and on the stems. On the leaves the spots are often characterised by a halo of slightly lighter green than the remainder of the leaf. The dusty appearance of the spots is due to the production of large numbers of spores of the fungus. Infection results, according to its severity, in reduced cropping, stunting, or, rarely, the death of plants. The disease is difficult to control, but its severity can be reduced by applying at 2- or -weekly intervals a spray made of 4 fl. oz. of lime sulphur, 1 fl. oz. of colloidal sulphur, and 4 gallons of water. Sprays of a fairly new fungicide zineb, at intervals of 7 to 14 days, depending on the weather, have proved effective. Sclerotinia disease: Sclerotinia is a fungous disease characterised by the development of a copious white fluffy growth and later of comparatively large black resting bodies (sclerotia), often inside the stems. The disease commonly attacks the main stems, usually near the bases, causing them to rot and plants to wilt and die. Seriously affected plants should be removed and burnt; if they are left, the resting bodies which develop constitute a source of infection for sub-

sequent crops. Crop rotation, good drainage, aeration, and hygiene are the most important factors in control of the disease. Wilt disease: Wilt may cause yellowing of the leaves and wilting and'death of plants due to blockage of the conducting tissues of the lower stems and main roots. Moisture assists the development of the disease and later dry conditions hasten the death of plants. There is no practical control of the disease in the home garden, as it will live indefinitely in the soil. Rotation should be practised and peas, which are also subject to the disease, should not be sown in infected areas. Celery Though it is useful for soups and stews, celery is most popular as a salad vegetable. Most home gardeners like to set out plants as early as possible and though plants can be set out earlier where temperatures are high enough, December and January are the preferred months for planting. Later planting is only practical where autumns are mild. For good growth celery should have a continuous and fairly high supply of moisture. In most districts regular spraying is necessary to keep the plants free from leaf diseases. However, temperatures are of first importance and if they are not high enough while the plants are young, selfblanching varieties will fail.

Home gardeners usually buy young celery plants, as the seedlings of selfblanching celery need to be raised in consistently higher temperatures than prevail t in most, districts without the aid of a glasshouse or heated frame. However, seed can be sown in October if suitable conditions can be maintained. Most varieties of self-blanch-ing celery will begin to develop seed stalks if they are checked by a week or more of temperatures from 35 to 50 degrees F. Celeriac Celeriac or turnip-rooted celery is a good substitute for celery and takes less time and much less trouble to grow. It has a turnip-like root with a characteristic celery flavour. The roots mainly are used. They may be boiled, used in stews, or sliced and eaten raw as a substitute for celery in salads. Even the leaf stalk can be used when it has developed well.

Seed may be sown now, particularly as celeriac is not as well known as celery and few seedsmen sell plants, though most sell seed. Because it is very hardy, does not require to be blanched, and succeeds on a wide range of rich, moist, and well-drained soils, celeriac deserves to be more extensively grown by home gardeners who like the flavour of celery.

Seed is usually sown Jin. to Jin. deep in rows 15in. apart when the ground has warmed in late September or October. Plants can be thinned to or set out 6in. to Bin. apart in rows 18in. apart, but they should not be set out deeply and should be liberally watered in dry weather. In very dry situations plants should be set out in shallow trenches to facilitate watering.

The soil should be rich so that plants make vigorous, continuous growth. During cultivation side shoots should be removed and the soil dragged away from the bulbous roots, which should be kept trimmed of all suckers, as they tend to cause unshapely development.

In districts which experience repeated severe frosts the roots can be lightly earthed up in autumn for protection, but lifting and storing are unnecessary except in heavy, poorly drained soil in exposed situations. Varieties include Celeriac and Giant Smooth Prague. Chinese Cabbage Chinese cabbage is somewhat like cos or romaine lettuce, but the size of its oval, elongated head is usually nearer that of silver beet. It is sometimes called lettuce-cabbage, as the texture of its leaves is more like that of lettuce than that of an ordinary cabbage. Another name is celerycabbage because of its flavour and because some of the forms , resemble celery.

Chinese cabbage, which stores quite well after cutting, may be eaten either cooked or raw. The inside blanched

leaves and heavy but tender midribs have a delicate celery-lettuce flavour. The plant is tender and quick growing, the commoner varieties maturing in good conditions in about 70 to 90 days. It should be treated like lettuce, but as it grows much bigger, it needs wider spacing. Chinese cabbage can be sown in spring, as it usually does well in the cool conditions then prevailing. - Seed can be sown in good soil in a sheltered situation or in boxes under glass 3 to 4 weeks before plants are required for setting out. Spring or autumn sowing is best in most districts, because if plants are set out when the weather is hot and dry, growth is slow and consequently plants often fail to head properly, developing seed stalks instead. Seed is best sown Jin. deep in rows 18in. apart in a moist, well-drained soil that is very rich in humus. When the seedlings are 3in. to 4in. high. they should be thinned or transplanted 12in. apart in the rows. Varieties include Wong Bok (Pao Ting), which is a short, quick-growing variety 9in. to Ilin, high and up to 6in. in diameter. Pe Tsai is a taller and thinner variety than Wong Bok' with looser leaves. It stands dry conditions slightly better, but its flavour

is not usually considered as good as that of the others. Chihli is a tall, early variety 15in. to 20in. high with a base diameter of about 3Jin. Garlic Garlic is very pungent and for those who like such flavours it is excellent for using in sauces, pickles, and for flavouring various dishes. The colder the conditions are under which it is grown the more biting or burning is its flavour. Garlic is usually grown from cloves (the divisions of the bulbous root), which are set out when conditions are favourable from June to September. It can also be grown from seed, which is usually sown in September or October as soon as the ground has warmed enough for good growth. The cloves are small bulbs which collectively make up most of the mature garlic bulb but which break away readily from the main stem or bulb. There are 10 to 12 cloves in an average bulb produced in groups of 1 to 5. In a mature garlic plant at . the end of the season all the leaves of the current season’s growth and the stem and roots die, leaving the cloves to continue for the next season. The soil must be well drained or the bulbs may rot. Cultivation apart from

weed control is unnecessary on most soils. Bulbs of the common variety have membranous, silvery white skins, though there are pink and red varieties. Culture is generally similar to that of shallots or onions. Bulbs may mature in favourable conditions in about 16 weeks from planting of the cloves, though a longer time is usually needed to obtain plants from seed. Early planted seed usually requires about 20 to 24 weeks. Mustard Greens Alternative names for mustard greens are Chinese mustard and mustard spinach. Mustard greens are hardy, useful, and easily grown forms of greens that deserve to be more widely grown in home gardens. Though they are not commonly grown, they are not new. The improved strains now available and the modern appreciation of the value of fresh vegetables have made them better known.

There are several kinds of mustard greens loose - leafed, broad - leafed, and curled types. The variety Tendergreen, which is also known as mustard spinach, is particularly fine. It has dark green, rather thick, fairly smooth, spoon-shaped leaves and combines the flavours of mustard and spinach. As it is slow to seed, its sowing in the hotter, drier districts need not be confined to spring and autumn, as is advisable with some of the other varieties.

A hearting variety (Hearting Chinese Mustard) is also sold by some seedsmen. The leaves grow 12in. to Min. long and the hearts, which are about 6in. to Bin. across, blanch well. The flavour of most varieties is mild.

Though some varieties will grow fairly well in the poorer soils, for best results it is advisable to grow them in rich, moist soils and in moderately cool conditions. The open varieties particularly are an excellent substitute for spinach and should be gathered in the same way,. though the leaves are larger than the largest spinach leaves. Thinnings should be pulled first and used with the roots cut off, and later when the remaining plants are large enough a few of the largest leaves can. be taken off as they develop. They can be removed with the fingers or a pair of scissors and should be used when young and tender; they can be cooked like spinach or used in salads. Seed should be sown |in. . deep in rows 15in. apart. Seedlings of the open-leafed kind should be thinned to 6in. apart in the rows and of the hearting kind to at least 9in. apart under favourable conditions. The crop should be ready for use in from 35 to 45 days from seed sowing. New Zealand Spinach New Zealand spinach, which is a half-hardy, trailing annual with large, succulent leaves, can be sown in

October. It is not a true spinach, but is valuable for use in hot, dry, sunny situations and is often preferred because it lacks the peculiar bitterness of true spinach. Growth is rapid in most soils, and it responds best to a light, fertile soil in a sunny position with adequate moisture. New Zealand spinach is harvested by pinching off about 3in. of the growing tips, which forces new shoots to develop, so that when established the plant has a multitude of tips for gathering. It grows quite large and should be given a spacing of at least 2ft. each way. Seed, which is usually rather slow to germinate, should be sown lin. to l|in. deep not more than a week before frost danger is past. Two or three seeds should be sown together at each spacing and the weaker seedlings removed after establishment. Parsley Parsley is usually in constant demand and to ensure adequate supplies seed should be sown twice a year in most gardens, in spring and in autumn. The plant is a biennial and unless conditions are especially favourable, germination is usually slow; if two sowings are not made, there may be a break in supply. Parsley responds well to rich, well-

drained soils, and fertiliser is just as necessary as for other crops. Seed can be sown in rows or broadcast on a small prepared plot, but for best - results the plants should be spaced about Bin. to 12in. apart when at the seedling stage. They make quite a good edging and do well in a cool, moist soil in the open or semishade. Seed may be slow to germinate, but sometimes germinates quite promptly if it is first soaked or is sown in very moist soil. , There are several types of parsley, but they are rarely listed by New Zealand seedsmen. They may be grouped as follows: (a) Plain-leafed or Italian: This is very hardy, but rarely grown in New Zealand. (b) Fern-leafed: The leaves of this type are deeply cut, but the segments are not twisted. (c) Curled: This is the most popular type of parsley grown in New Zealand and most seedsmen’s catalogues list varieties of it. The leaves are deeply divided into segments which are twisted or curled over. Within these groups there'are dwarf, compact, and tall varieties. In addition the variety known as Hamburg, which is included with the coarser - leafed types, has an edible root about

7in. to Bin. long and about 3in. thick, somewhat resembling a small parsnip in shape and colour. The roots are very tender when grown in a rich soil well supplied with moisture.

The different varieties of parsley vary in colour from light to dark green. Tall varieties have about 7in. to Bin. of stem and are suitable for bunching. The dwarf, compact varieties, which may be only about sin. high, are useful in the' home garden.

Drying Parsley If two sowings are made each year, there should be no need to dry or store parsley, though storing is quite a simple matter. The most desirable dried parsley is obtained by constantly picking a few of the best young leaves as they develop in summer and autumn; dried spring parsley rarely keeps its colour. The leaves can be laid , out in single layers, and dried in heated rooms, though most housewives will find it more convenient and the final product better if the leaves are dried at a temperature of about 90 degrees F. by putting them in a fairly hot oven with the door open. Quick drying is imperative if the essential oils that give parsley its characteristic scent are to be retained and too much of its colour is not to be lost.

When dry the parsley should be rubbed or pulverised and coarse pieces of stalk should be removed. The leaves can then be put in bags and should be stored in a dry place. If allowed to reabsorb moisture, they tend to become rubbery.

Parsley is sometimes gritty with soil from rain splashes, but it should not be cleaned with boiling water. If it cannot be cleaned with a thorough shaking, it should be washed under a cold tap.

Because parsley is a biennial, it usually begins to send up seed stalks early in its second year. Little is to be gained, however, by picking them off, as the plant’s energy becomes more and more concentrated on their production.

Greenfly is often troublesome on parsley, but is easily controlled by spraying with lindane or nicotine sulphate 1 : 800 (1| teaspoons of nicotine sulphate to 1 gallon of water plus a little soap dissolved first in water). Peas Peas can still be sown in October where the soil is well drained and in good condition. In good soils peas do not need heavy fertiliser dressings, and very moderate dressings of superphosphate alone have given good results with commercial crops on a wide range of soils. Garden peas are fairly tolerant of soil acidity and usually grow well in fairly acid soils, but moderate applications of lime, about 2oz. to 4oz. per ' square

yard, are advisable on the more acid soils. Injury often results where fertiliser is applied in the drills with the seed. It is best applied to the soil 2in. to 3in. on either side of the . seed row or at least lin. under the seed. Fertiliser can be applied in' a drill taken out with a hoe and partly, filled in before the seed is sown. Peas require well-drained, fertile soil and in any but the most fertile soils soil-improvement measures will be repaid. Deep digging of heavy soils and incorporation throughout the root area of moderate quantities of wellrotted organic matter are advised. Surface or near-surface applications are not only liable to cause, seed injury, but may encourage surface rooting, which is to be avoided where conditions are likely to become dry. A supply of nitrogen in the soil helps young plants to become established, but most soils that have been kept in good condition by regular dressings of well-rotted organic matter should be adequately supplied. Seed for dwarf varieties should be sown'lin. to 2in. deep at about 10 to 15 . seeds per running foot in rows at least 18in. apart. If the drills are

taken out a little deeper and only part of the covering soil is put back, the hollow left will serve to mark the row and facilitate watering. . Later the peas can be earthed up to some extent to keep the roots cooler and to hold the plants more firmly in windy conditions. Early or second-early peas are most popular and include such varieties as Little Marvel, Utility, Early Crop, William Massey, Greenfeast, and Victory Freezer. Pumpkins, Squash, Marrows, and Melons The culture and soil requirements of pumpkins, squash, marrows, and melons are much similar, though melons need warmer conditions than the others. None of these plants should be sown in the open to be above ground before frost danger is past, and the ground must have warmed sufficiently and not be too wet or the seed is liable to rot. The plants thrive in a wide range of soils, from sandy to moderately heavy, provided there is an assured supply of moisture (preferably held in the soil) and plenty of organic matter. Well-drained, light, warm, aerated soils are best for early crops, but for

main crops heavier soils usually give a higher yield over a longer period. Organic matter can be increased by digging in a green crop, but particularly in colder districts better results are obtained if 1 cub. ft. of soil is removed at 2ft. to 3ft. intervals and the holes, except for the top 3in. or 4in., are filled with manure (preferably with partly rotted, fermenting stable manure). Seed can be sown in soil placed on top or, preferably, at the edge of the manure. Rows should be at least 4ft. apart; this is known as the hill system of sowing. The? ground should if possible be level after sowing to facilitate any necessary watering. Apart from watering and weed control very little attention should be needed after plants are established. With trailing varieties it may be necessary to pinch out the ends of leaders when they are about 18in. long to encourage the development of laterals? Plants can be trained by pegging the runners with sticks. The fruit of marrows should be cut when young, preferably before the skin hardens to the extent that it cannot be broken easily by the thumbnail; lOin. to 12in: is a good size. As marrows increase in size their flavour usually is reduced and the seeds increase in size. In favourable seasons, too, early cutting of the fruit induces more to develop. It is therefore inadvisable to allow fruit to reach full maturity unless very large specimens are wanted or fruit is to be stored for winter.

Butternut Squash A small, pear-shaped bush variety of squash called Butternut is becoming more widely known. It has been grown in the U.S.A, for many years and is now produced, commercially in some areas of New Zealand. The fruits, which are up to Ift. long, have a sweet ■ flavour and the necks are solid flesh. The small seed cavities are in the lower, bowl-shaped ends. The variety keeps quite well if stored under good conditions. Rhubarb Rhubarb responds to liberal manuring, but production from even the healthiest well-fed crowns is liable to be affected if heavy harvesting is continued too long. Pulling the stalks exhausts the plant, and the crown must be given an adequate period in which to develop the leaves which enable it to build up stores of plant food for the following season. Most varieties are dormant for a time and the leaves must be allowed to do their work before dormancy occurs. Beds should not become dry, and those of everbearing varieties that lack plant food should be watered with liquid manure. Sweet Corn Sweet corn is not a hardy vegetable. It thrives in warm, sunny conditions, and within limits the higher the temperature is and the more sunlight, it receives the more* likely it is to succeed. It can be grown in most districts in New Zealand, as it is less sensitive to cold than either the tomato or the snap bean, but it is not much grown in gardens in far southern districts.

Seed should be sown lin. to 2in. deep. If planted in rows, plants should be 12in. apart and the rows 36in. apart; clumps should be 36in. apart and, though it is usually advisable to sow about 7 or 8 seeds at each clump to allow for failures, only 4 or 5 of the strongest plants should be left after they reach a height of about 2in. The number of seeds per ounce varies from about 100 to 230 according to variety. Sweet corn matures in about 70 to 100 days and seed can be sown successionally. Sweet corn is not specially sensitive to drought and usually bears earlier on light, sandy or peat soils. Suckers often develop at the base of the plant during autumn and home gardeners sometimes remove them in an effort to increase the size and encourage early development of the cobs. However, usually the practice is more, likely to result in loss than gain, as the removal of large suckers results in loss of plant tissue which is capable of elaborating plant nutrients " into substances which go to the development of the cobs. It may also result in serious plant damage. Correct Harvesting Stage To be at its best sweet com should be harvested at the correct stage of development. It retains its finest flavour and texture only for a short time, especially with early varieties. Corn cobs should be harvested in the milk; stage while they are plump, juicy, and firm and the silk is fairly dry. The cob can be tested by pressing the thumb nail into one of the kernels. If a milky substance is forced out, the cob is suitable for harvesting; if the juice is watery, the cob is immature; if a doughy substance . comes out, the corn is usually considered over-ripe. Corn should be used as soon as convenient after harvesting, because its sugar changes to starch within about 36 hours' For those who want corn at its best that is a good reason for growing it in the home garden rather than buying it. If corn is not be used soon after harvesting, it is best cooled and held at as near freezing point as possible, as then loss of sugar is greatly retarded. It used to be common practice for home gardeners to grow corn on “hills”, but it is now generally agreed that there is little justification for the practice, as the raised soil surface about the corn tends to shed rain and makes watering difficult. Earthing up the stems of tall varieties is justified where winds are boisterous and the plants are not firmly established. It is a good plan, however, to grow corn in the sort of “hills” that are actually clumps, as corn is wind pollinated and pollen distribution is best where the plants stand in blocks. All photographs by Green and Hahn.