The Importance of DARTS and TUCKS

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 2, 15 August 1957, Page 213

The Importance of DARTS and TUCKS

T HE importance of darts and tucks in dressmaking is not always ■ realised. Both can be used as part of a fashion design beside providing a fit and controlling fullness. A perfect fit cannot be obtained by cutting alone, and this article by Mary Hunt, Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, shows how darts and tucks must be used if the garment is to fit the figure. .

APART from giving the required shape and fullness to a garment darts and tucks can give decorative lines to an otherwise plain garment. Tucks, especially, are used on bodices and blouse fronts, skirts, lingerie, and children’s clothes. Darts are always wider at one part than the other; they may be wide at one end and tapering to a point at the other or wide in the middle and tapering at each end. Tucks are the same width throughout. Darts are generally sewn on the inside of a garment, but tucks may be sewn on either side. DARTS Placing Darts Darts may be placed at the neck, shoulder, underarm, waist, hips, wrist, or elbow. Their size is determined by the position and by the relative difference in body measurements; for instance, between the bust and waist or the shoulder and bust. On the front of the bodice all darts, no matter where they are placed, should be directed toward the point of the bust. The size and position of darts are always indicated on commercial patterns, but very often a slight adjustment will improve the fit of a garment. Instead of the extra material being taken up in one large dart it is more satisfactory to make two or more small ones. The more material that is put into a dart the longer the dart will need to be, and if it is not tapered off gradually, a bulge is likely to appear at the narrow end. Sewing Darts The pattern markings of darts must be carefully matched, pinned, and basted. It is advisable to fit the garment at

this stage before stitching the darts. When pinning and stitching, it is important to begin at the widest part and work toward the point. The, stitching should be taken about jin. beyond the point of the dart, a thread’s width from the folded edge (Fig. 1), to prevent a bulge forming at the end. The threads should then be. drawn through to the wrong side and tied. The darts may be stitched again on the right side of the garment to give the appearance of a lap seam. • Underarm Darts The underarm darts are some of the most commonly used and are generally placed horizontally on the bustline, though they may be placed below the bustline pointing diagonally toward the bust (Fig. 2). These diagonal darts are the best for a large-busted person. If extra material has to be taken out in the underarm dart, the equivalent amount should be allowed at the waist to give the required length on the side seam. It is important not to put too much material into one dart in the undearm position, as it should not extend beyond a line level with the widest curve of the armhole. The finished width . of this dart should not exceed tin. If more material has to be removed, a second dart should be made. Shoulder Darts Shoulder darts may be used as part of the garment design or to give extra fullness over the bust. They can sometimes be used in place of underarm darts. The direction of the grain of the fabric on the shoulder is altered slightly when a dart is made. This lifts the scye line (line level with the bottom of the armhole) and may save the necessity for an underarm dart, though for a full-busted person it may be necessary to have darts in both positions. More material may be taken out in a shoulder dart than in an underarm dart. As much as Ijin. to 2in. can be taken out with a shoulder dart, but care must be taken to taper the dart evenly to a point so that the garment will fit smoothly over the bust. When the dart is completed it should be pressed toward the centre of the garment (Fig. 3); for wool, silk, or heavy linens it may be better to slash the dart, press it open, and overcast the raw edges (Fig. 4). Neckline or Back of Shoulder Darts Darts may be necessary at the back of the neck or the -back of the shoulders to shape the garment correctly. If no allowance is made for the curve of the shoulders, the garment is likely; to pull and cause horizontal wrinkles.

Whether the darts are placed on the shoulder or on the centre backline or radiate from the neckline will depend on the style of the garment. The width of the darts will depend on the shape of the shoulders and the position of the head and neck. A person with very rounded shoulders will need to take out more in these darts than a person with a straight back. Most commercial patterns allow a certain amount for rounded shoulders, so ..a person with a very straight back may find it necessary to eliminate any neckline or shoulder darts. In sheer fabrics the appearance may be improved if the extra fullness is taken up in 3 to 5 small darts, but in

heavier fabrics 2 or 3 larger darts are sufficient. Shoulder and neck darts should be pressed toward the centre of the garment. Waist Darts Vertical waist darts are necessary in most bodice patterns to remove excess fullness and to give a snug fit at the waist. The difference between the waist and bust measurements will determine the size of these darts. Those taken in the back of a bodice are generally . considerably smaller than the darts in the front. > Care should be taken not to remove too much material in one dart or the

dart will require too much length to give a good fit and appearance. A dart lgin. wide requires about 6in. in length, which is usually too long for a waist dart. The use of two smaller darts or a group of tucks is the best way to remove excess fullness if more than lin. to Ijin. must be removed. Waist darts should be pressed toward the centre of the garment. Sometimes, when the bodice and skirt are in one piece body darts are necessary. These are wide in the

centre and taper above and below the waist. Shallow darts may be clipped at intervals down the fold, but deep darts must be cut along the fold, and at the waist the edges must be clipped to Jin. from the stitching line (Fig. 5). The raw edges should then be overcast and the dart pressed open. Sleeve Darts For comfort and appearance a long sleeve must have sufficient ease to bend the elbow. This may be done by ~the use of elbow darts or wrist

darts (Fig. 6). For the elbow darts 2 or 3 small darts are made opposite the elbow. These darts should be kept small and not too long, but the size and number depend on the size of the arm. Elbow darts should be pressed downward. Wrist darts may also be used to adjust fullness over the elbow, though their most important function is to improve the fit of long sleeves at the wrist. Darts may be used at the top of the sleeve, over the shoulder, instead of gathers, to . give extra ' width at the shoulder. They give a more tailored appearance than gathers. Skirt Darts Darts at the waistline of a skirt are used in fitted skirts to give fullness over the hips. These darts are generally placed to appear continuous with those in the bodice. However, if they are near the centre-front line, the amount removed should not exceed gin. Any extra should be removed nearer the side seams, which are at the fullest part of the hips. For a person who is shorter than average from the waistline to the hipline, several short darts, placed perpendicular to the waistline, are most becoming. TUCKS The sewing of tucks can be made much simpler by the use of a tucker . attachment, which is provided with most sewing machines. It will make tucks of all sizes from fine, pin tucks to tucks about lin. wide. Tucks on sheer fabrics or fine, pin tucks on babies’ clothes are neater if sewn by hand (Fig. 7). Fullness is sometimes controlled by tucks in such places as the front or back of a blouse, at the tops of sleeves, or round the waistline of a skirt. These tucks generally are sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, while tucks which are used only for decorative purposes are sewn on the right side. Tucks may be made of even width throughout or they may graduate in size (Fig. 8), with each tuck becoming progressively larger or smaller. For instance, on a skirt or blouse there may be a small tuck at the top graduating to a wide one at the bottom. When the size graduates in this way the space between two tucks is usually made the width of the wider tuck. Hand-sewn tucks must be spaced and sewn evenly to obtain a neat finish. Before'sewing it is as well to crease each tuck on the fabric thread. By use of a fine needle and fine thread, tiny, even, running stitches should be made the required distance from the fold. . . Thread ends of machine-stitched tucks ; should be fastened securely by the threads being pulled through to the wrong side of the fabric and tying.