Tools and Equipment for Flower Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 2, 15 August 1957, Page 203

Tools and Equipment for Flower Garden

THE range of tools and equipment neces- • sary for work in the flower garden is not extensive and good tools last for many years. In this article K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, discusses the most suitable types, their uses, care, and the dangers of mismanagement and carelessness in their use. The garden work notes for September are by Rosalie A. Campion, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Wellington. ONCE a flower garden has been laid out heavy tools are seldom required and apart from a good, strong spade light tools are most satisfactory. There is a big range available, some of which have limited use, but they make work easier and are more efficient for a specialised job. Many tools are now obtainable in stainless steel and though they are expensive, they are well worth buying. They not only do not rust, but under all conditions are easier to work with. The clogging of ordinary spades or hoes when work is being done in moist ground seldom occurs when stainless steel tools are used. On this page is shown a selection of tools which can be considered a minimum for maintaining a flower garden containing lawns, fl®wer borders, roses, and shrubs.

The Spade \ Though no tool can be singled out as the most important one, special consideration should be given to the spade.Digging with a spade can be hard work; that is probably why many gardeners prefer a long-handled shovel. A spade should be light but strong and be clean and free of rust. The blade should be at a slight angle, bending forward from the handle, and it should be moderately sharp. , The angle of the blade in relation to the handle is important; the less

the angle the harder it is to keep the soil on the blade, when digging. A spade can be used for other work such as throwing soil back from grass edges when . flower beds have been cultivated, or straightening a turf edge if an edging iron is not available. If a spade or any other tool becomes rusty, it should be cleaned. This can be done by rubbing the blade with a piece of pumice or a corner of a brick, plenty of water being used. To prevent rust reappearing the metal should be rubbed over with an oily rag before the tool is put away. The Fork Of the many types' of fork the one commonly called the lady’s fork is the most useful in the flower garden. It can be used for light cultivation, such as pricking up, which is done to aerate beds during wet periods when hoeing is not practicable. For lifting, bulbs and herbaceous plants it is invaluable, as too much damage can result when a spade is used. The Hoe The torpedo-shaped push hoe cuts weeds in both forward and backward movements, provided both edges are sharp. The chance of damage to the plants should not be overlooked and some people prefer to use a push hoe with blunt ends at right angles to the cutting edge.

For gardeners who prefer to use a chop hoe a light type manufactured ■in New Zealand is an, improvement on the type commonly seen.

By frequent hoeing weeds are prevented from becoming established, and because the surface is kept open, aeration of the soil is facilitated; this is of great benefit to plants. Greater oxidation of organic matter occurs and this loss should be replaced by frequent application to keep the soil in good heart.

The Rake

The main use of the iron rake is for levelling soil and removing debris. Again, a lightly constructed tool can be recommended. When the back of the rake forms a plain, straight edge this is useful for marking before planting. In the autumn overhaul of lawns the rake is generally used for scarifying the turf. There are special, rakes more suitable for gathering leaves; one constructed of plastic is shown on page 204. Rakes left lying around are a menace, especially for children, particularly when the prongs are pointing up. They should be placed against a building, fence, or shrub, with the teeth facing in. Garden Line and Measure It is not possible to make anything straight in the garden without a line, and for it to be placed correctly distances must be measured. A good, stout garden line will last for years and is a good investment. Three foot rulers are excellent for garden use. Hand Tools A trowel is a necessity for satisfactory planting of small subjects, such as bedding plants. Various types are available, but the common half-round type, shown on page 204, is the most useful. ; r A bricklayer’s pointing trowel is better for dealing with very small plants, and where bedding plants are set out from boxes this type will be found excellent for cutting the in-

dividual plants out in blocks, when the soil will adhere better to the roots. Sometimes a dibble is used when plants are shifted directly from the seed-bed to the growing position. Dibbles can be bought with metalcovered tips; these are much better to work with, as the soil does not stick as it may on wood. A hand fork is very useful for working the soil round small plants where it is not possible to use a hoe or larger fork. Chromium-plated trowel and fork sets are available. Tools for Lawn Care The most expensive tool for care of the lawn is the mower. Many home gardeners have motor mowers and, in general, these are much better cared for than hand mowers. However, a well-kept mower lasts years longer and does better work with less effort. Greasing and oiling should be done frequently in the places which can readily be seen. In large gardens this may be desirable every time the mower , is used; for small gardens it may not be necessary, but it is better done too frequently than not often enough. Occasionally the wheels should be taken off a hand mower and the running parts cleaned and given new grease. Sharpening of mowers should not be done by amateurs, but the setting may have to be attended to from time to time. The part of the mower which is adjusted for the setting is usually the bottom plate and not the cutting cylinder. When adjustment is required the nuts on the main bolt of the bottom plate are loosened, as the blade is pivoted on that. Four adjusting bolts, one placed at each corner of the plate, are then adjusted so that an even cut is obtained along the full length of the cylinder. This can be tested by cutting a piece of paper. The four adjusting bolts should all be firm after the plate is set and finally the nuts on the main bolt are tightened. The positions of these parts are shown on page 207.

To set the height of the mower the roller is moved up or down. To make the cut even both ends must be set the same; the alignment should be taken from the bottom plate.

A new type of motor mower has been available for a number of years. The grass is cut by small knives placed on a bar or disc' which is rotated parallel with the surface of the turf. This type of mower does an excellent job, especially on grass that is too long to be cut with a cylinder-cutting mower.

. The mower can, however, be dangerous. The individual knives are fixed with two bolts. These bolts can become worn by grinding on stones and should they come off while the mower is operating, the knives may be hurled away and cause a nasty accident. These bolts require frequent inspection. Accidents can also occur through carelessness. The knives rotate with a great speed and will cut everything. No work should ever be done to the machine nor should it be lifted while the motor is working as it is easy to get a foot into range of the knives. Under no circumstances should these motor mowers be left unattended while the motor is running. A lawn looks more attractive if it has neat edges. These can be shaped with a spade or with a special edging iron, such as that shown on the right side of the illustration of lawn tools on page 204. Whichever tool is used it must be sharp or the edge cannot be made even. It is much easier to do this job when the turf is moist. When an edging iron is used the flat side should be facing the turf. If a straight edge is being cut, a straight piece of timber placed alongside the line will assist greatly in keeping the cut even. Professional gardeners use planks with holes in both ends so that they can be pegged into position. For curved edges, a hose is useful for giving an over-all impression of the cut, but care should be taken that the hose is not pushed out of position

during the operation.

To keep a garden at its best the lawn edges should be trimmed after each mowing. That is a small job with a pair of long-handled edging shears. For positions against walls or fences where it is not possible to cut close with the mower hand shears can be used. The type shown on page 204 is less tiring to use than sheep shears. Where a lawn borders a concrete path the grass is often left untidy. The hand shears can be used for cutting in these places, but the wheel cutter shown on page 204 makes the job easier. The ordinary iron rake is not very satisfactory for cleaning light rubbish such as leaves and twigs off lawns. Special types are available for this job and they should be used with a sweeping movement to prevent breakage. Watering Equipment In most districts a garden hose is essential. Various types of plastic hoses are now available besides rubber hoses. Plastic hoses have the advantage of being light in weight, but some types become stiff in cold weather, when they can be difficult to roll after use. Kinks can cause trouble if the hose is left on the ground or lawn while the water is turned on. There are many types of sprinklers and one should be chosen to suit the size of the garden. Perforated plastic hoses are useful for laying between plants where a good soaking is required. They should be turned on slowly; if full pressure is turned on before the hose is filled with water, it is possible to blow the end out. A good substitute for a perforated hose can be 1 made by drilling fine holes in a length of galvanised pipe, as shown in the illustration on page 204. For watering isolated plants and seedlings a watering can is useful, but the common types have not a fine enough rose for satisfactory use on a new seed-bed or very fine seedlings. For this purpose the small imported cans are best. Both of these types are shown in the top-left illustration on page 204. Pruning Equipment The pruning equipment required in any flower garden will depend on the plants growing in it, but in general, no such drastic pruning is required as in the orchard. The correct tool for pruning is very important, as too small a tool will make any job difficult. A selection of pruning equipment is shown on page 204. For gardens with hedges hedge -flippers are, of course, a necessity, fhey are intended for cutting soft

growth, not mature wood. A pair with a notch for branch cutting is handy, but, in general, it is better to cut branches with a pair of secateurs. Like all clippers and shears they should be kept well oiled and adjusted. The correct washer should be fitted to the bolt to prevent the nut from working loose. Hedge clippers are intended to be used pointing away from the operator; otherwise they can cause accidents. Of the different kinds of secateurs that easiest to use is the type in which a blade is cutting against, a soft metal bed or anvil. It is satisfactory for most work, but the pressing of the wood against the metal anvil will cause bruising on soft-wooded plants. Where a clean and close cut is essential, for example on roses, the parrotbeak type is superior. With this type one side of the branch is resting against a heavy jaw. This will cause bruising and the secateurs should always be used so that the clean cut is on the part remaining on the plant. Both types are shown in the illustration on page 204. If a branch is too thick to cut with secateurs, it should not be attempted.

Cutting with a twisting movement may spoil the alignment of the cutting blade, after which a clean cut will not be . possible. Branch cutters are designed for such jobs. Pruning, work in most flower gardens does not warrant the purchase of branch cutters, and any branches which are too large for secateurs can be cut with a saw. There are ' many kinds of pruning saws. The choice should rest on which one will do the job without damage to other parts of the plant. The type .with two saw edges is seldom suitable for use in the flower garden; the upper edge will usually catch in other branches when branches of shrubs and roses are being sawn. The end should be pointed so that the saw can be used in confined positions. The size of the teeth is not important, but the setting should be fairly fine. Straight and curved types are available, both of which are shown on page 204. Finally, a strong knife is necessary to trim any rough edges remaining after sawing.

Dusting Dusting as a control measure against pests and diseases in the flower garden has the main advantage of simplicity and speed. The dusts can be mixed at the beginning of the season or purchased ready for use. Thorough cleaning of the duster is not necessary after each use and dusting can be carried out, therefore, in a fraction of the time required for spraying. Some types of dusters are shown in the illustration on page 204. The rotary-fan type is undoubtedly the most satisfactory, throwing a cloud to about Bft. The output can be regulated by the speed of operation. Because of even distribution it is economical in use. Greasing should be done by filling the grease cap, and occasionally the side where the handle is fixed should be removed and the revolving parts greased. The plunger type has a separate chamber for the dust, through which air is forced by pumping; this forces a cloud of dust through the nozzle. This type is available. in many makes and sizes. They will not provide such an even flow of dust as the rotary-fan dusters, but. are much cheaper. The bellows type works on the same principle as the plunger type, but is operated by shaking. Spray Pumps Pest and disease control in the flower garden may in some places be a small job compared to that in . the vegetable garden and orchard. Spraying equipment may, however, also have to be used for these sections of the garden and purchase of a knapsack sprayer may be necessary. Larger equipment will seldom be essential in a home garden. There are two types of knapsack sprayersthe low- and high-pressure types. The low-pressure type, shown on page 204, has the pressure chamber built into the tank. This type is quite satisfactory in most gardens. The highpressure type has the pressure chamber fitted to the outside of the tank. Both types supply a continuous volume of spray on being pumped. Two types of nozzles are in use. The bordeaux nozzle, which can be readily adjusted for a spray or jet output, seldom blocks up. The cyclone nozzle, which is frequently double headed, provides a finer spray than the bordeaux nozzle and is therefore generally preferred for the flower garden. Blockages of the aperture sometimes occur, but by the unscrewing of the cap it can quickly be cleaned. A closed disc is usually attached on the side of a double-headed nozzle, whereby one of the nozzles can be put out of action if a small output only is required. A useful feature is that the angle of the spray cone in relation to the rod can be changed on some cyclone nozzles, facilitating a better cover on different kinds of plants.

A strainer is supplied for use when the tank is filled and another is placed in the delivery rod. Both should be kept clean. Extension rods for knapsack sprayers are available for spraying tall subjects. Bucket pumps are much cheaper than knapsack sprayers. The suction end of the pump is placed in a bucket with spraying material and is kept in position by a foot placed on the fixture on the outside. The pump usually operates with a continuous output and is quite efficient. Bordeaux or cyclone nozzles, as described, can be fitted. The main disadvantage of bucket pumps is lack of mobility, as they are constructed for the operator to stand alongside the bucket pumping with one hand and spraying with the other. This drawback can be overcome by the fitting of a longer hose between the pump and the spraying rod and operating it with two persons. Hand syringes, some with several different nozzles, are available. They are filled by sucking the spray material into the chamber from a bucket, after which it is forced out in a spray. They are slower and more laborious to work than bucket pumps. Several types of atomisers are used for spraying. Their main use is for damping down in a glasshouse, but they can be used for spraying smaller plants, especially with volatile insecticides, such as nicotine sulphate. Care should always be taken that no solids

are put into them, as the jets block easily. Of the two kinds one is pumped during the operation and the other is constructed with a pressure chamber so that it can be pumped up before spraying begins. No matter which kind of sprayer is used, hygiene should always be thorough. Some spray materials are corrosive and though the materials used in the manufacture of spray equipment are fairly resistant, they may be damaged if not thoroughly cleaned after use. As hormone weedkillers are very difficult to remove from spray equipment and some plants are susceptible to the smallest trace of hormone, the use of hormone weedkillers in generalpurpose spraying equipment cannot be recommended. Preferably a separate sprayer or watering can should be kept for weedkillers and marked so that it is not confused with the usual equipment. To measure exactly the materials a gallon measure or a bucket or tin of known capacity should be available. A graduated measuring glass should be kept for measuring liquid concentrate material, and a small set of scales will be very useful for measuring dry materials. Most spray materials are poisonous. They should be placed out of reach of children, and empty containers should be destroyed and disposed of so that no harm can result

Handling of Flowers When flowers are cut for interior decoration a receptacle should be used. A shopping basket may provide sufficient space, but for larger quantities a special flower basket will be useful. The flowers will be in better condition if they are placed directly in a basket after cutting than if they are carried by hand or on the arm. Less damage will be done to the plant if a small pair of secateurs is used for cutting. Handling Garden Rubbish The type of equipment to use for taking rubbish away mostly depends on the quantity. Double work is given if it is thrown on the ground or lawn and cleaned up afterward. It is just as easy to place it on a piece of scrim. By gripping the four corners of a fairsized bundle it can be carried, as garden rubbish is seldom heavy. For large quantities of rubbish and for manure or compost a wheelbarrow can be used, if available. The extra money required for a pneumatic-tyred wheel will be well spent, as the barrow is much easier to push and it does not cut into soil or lawns. For collection of small rubbish a bucket is very satisfactory. In fact two should be available, one for material to be placed on the compost heap and the other for material to be destroyed. When 4-gallon tins are used in the garden a solid handle should be provided, and if they are painted inside with bituminous or other rust-preventing paint, they will last much longer.

Garden Work for September

Spring bedding plants will be making a fine display now, and a light forking or careful hoeing will aerate

the soil and im-

prove the appearance of the beds.

Cinerarias should

be given liquid manure and a spray of arsenate of lead or DDT to prevent the ravages of woolly-bear caterpillar, the larvae stage of the magpie moth. If the ragwort leafminer has appeared on cinerarias, sprays of nicotine sulphate or lindane should be applied. All dead flower heads should be removed from Iceland poppies, ranunculus, and anemone to prolong flowering. Lily of the valley will be improved by applications of liquid manure. Where autumn preparation for spring sowing of lawns was carried out seed should be sown now. Established lawns can be topdressed by routine applications of a mixture of 3 parts of sulphate of ammonia and 1 part of superphosphate at loz. persquare yard.

Care of Perennials Where soil conditions permitted many perennial plants will have been divided last month. Such plants as violets, gerberas, scabious, delphiniums, and michaelmas daisies can still be divided and replanted in enriched soil. When polyanthus and primulas have finished flowering they should be heeled in close together in an unused shady place for a summer rest. The perennial forget - me - not (Anchusa azurea), Anemone japonica, perennial phlox, and oriental poppies may all be increased by root cuttings made at this time. Pieces about 3in. long can be planted out and will soon grow into a new plant. A peg should be put beside the cuttings as they are planted. Strong growths will be appearing on established perennial clumps. Where growths are too crowded they should be thinned out, weak and unwanted shoots being removed completely at their bases. If required, these rooted shoots can be used to form new plants. This is the best way to obtain chrysanthemum plants, the old clump then being discarded. Where chrysanthemum leaf eelworm caused purple or brown dead areas between the veins last season the old plants should be cleaned of soil and held in hot water at 115 degrees F. for 5 minutes and then washed in cold water before they

are replanted to produce cuttings. Replant in clean ground. Where plants were attacked by chrysanthemum gall midge, cuttings should be dipped in either lindane or DDT emulsion. Seed Sowing Seed sowing should be a priority job this month, as the ground is warming up. The warmth encourages the germination of weed seeds also ‘and these should be kept in check. Seeds of hardy annuals can now be sown outside. Though some thrive on comparatively poor soil, most prefer a well-cultivated soil rich in organic matter. The soil should be friable and broken to a fine tilth before the seeds are thinly sown. The seed may be broadcast and raked in or sown in drills. It is probably better to scoop a jin. layer of the soil to one side of the area to be sown and after it is sown gently cover the seed with this soil. Where frames or cloches are available sowings of the more tender plants such as petunias, salvias, dahlias, Phlox drummondi, livingstone daisies, zinnias, nemesia, asters, and dimorphotheca can be made. Pricking out and Planting out The more tender subjects which were sown under glass last month can

be pricked out 2in. to 3in. apart as soon as they have two true leaves. The boxes, which should be replaced under the glass for about 2 weeks until the plants are established, can be filled with a good compost consisting of 7 parts of good turfy loam, 3 parts of compost peat, leafmould, or well-rotted cow manure, and 2 parts of coarse sand.

To every bushel of the mixture, about the amount which will fill an apple case, add ?oz. of lime and soz. of a base fertiliser, which can be made by thoroughly mixing 2oz. by weight of dried blood, 2oz. by weight of superphosphate, and loz. by weight of sulphate of potash.

Seedlings which were sown in situ outside last month may need thinning to about 6in. apart to ensure adequate light and nutrients for good plant development. If it is desired to transplant some of these seedlings, they should be left until they are 2in. tall before being transplanted. It may be necessary to thin out the plants to allow them to grow sturdily to this size. Spring Flowering Bulbs With most spring flowering bulbs now reaching perfection and not when the bulbs are in the shops in early autumn it is time to give consideration to the choice of varieties for future planting. If it is possible, visit a bulb nursery and see the bulbs during flowering, or take the names of desired blooms as they are displayed at flower shows and place orders as soon as possible to ensure delivery. When the blooms fade remove the flower heads, but do not " cut off the foliage, which is necessary to feed the bulb for next year’s blooming. Long leaves may be tied to give a neat appearance. It is desirable to spray narcissus, hyacinth, amaryllis, and iris at ground level with DDT wettable powder as a protection against the females of the narcissus bulb flies, which lay their eggs during spring at the bases of the leaves or on the necks of the bulbs. Spring Planting Bulbs Though autumn is regarded as bulbplanting time, there are several bulbs which should be planted now. Acidanthera: These plants are very closely related to and often grouped among gladiolus. The bulbs require dry, airy storage and can be planted from now until Christmas. Old, diseased corms should be discarded, but clean corms and cormlets can be planted and expected to flower in the first year. Agapanthus: This tuberous-rooted plant should be cut into clumps, each with a few buds. Planting should be

3in. to 4in. deep.

Alstromeria (Peruvian lily): The tubers should only be lifted and divided when they become crowded. There are several colours. The thickened roots should be planted 4in. deep in rich soil. Care should be taken when lifting and dividing the roots that these are not broken. Begonia, tuberous: These can be started into growth in boxes of leafmould to which a little bone flour has been added. They should be protected by glass until early summer. Canna: Old plants can be lifted and broken up, leaving several buds to each tuber. They should be planted 2in. deep in a good soil in a sunny aspect. The plants should be spaced lift, to 3ft. apart, depending on the height of the variety. Clivia: Lift and replant at the same level in a place where they will be partially shaded. Crinum: Lift and replant lin. deep. Dahlias: Clumps of tubers which have been lifted and stored during winter can be placed in a warm, moist place to develop sprouts. Boxes of moist sawdust are excellent for holding the tubers. Smaller plants usually give better but later flowers, and when the shoots are developing, individual tubers with one or two good shoots should be severed and planted in beds which have been well enriched with organic matter. Strong stakes should be inserted before tubers are planted. Galtonia candicans: Bulbs can be planted 4in. to 6in. deep in groups in the herbaceous border. Gladiolus: A good variety of the informal primulinus types, including fluted butterfly and ruffled varieties, is available and as. with the largerflowered types they can be planted in succession until Christmas. The largerflowered types should be planted 4in. to sin. deep and 6in. to Bin. apart, but the smaller types may be planted slightly shallower and closer. A dressing of 4 parts of bonedust and 1 part of sulphate of potash should be worked into the soil at planting. Dipping the bulbs in a solution of formalin or proprietary mercury bulb dip will help clean up any fungous disease which may be present on the bulbs. . Iris unguicularis (stylosa): This fibrous rooted plant will almost have completed its long flowering season and can be divided and replanted. It thrives quite well on relatively poor soils. Sprekelia: Where there is danger of frosts the bulbs should be lifted annually and the offsets replanted into rich, warm, well-drained soil at this time. Where no frosts are experienced the bulbs may be left undisturbed for

several years.

Schizostylis, tritonia, and tigridia: The bulbs can be left undisturbed for 3 to 4 years if planted in clumps 3in. to 4in. deep at this season. ; Zephryanthes Candida: One of the autumn 1 crocuses which can be planted now. Roses: Young, healthy growths will be appearing, and where strong winds are common it may be necessary to stake whippy growths temporarily. Where a mass of young shoots has developed some thinning may be done while growths are young. Keep a check for mildew and apply a spray of lime sulphur or dust with flowers of sulphur if it appears. For aphids spray or dust the bushes with lindane. Water Gardens Spring is the time for overhauling garden pools. When the surface of pools becomes too crowded with lily leaves the sun is excluded from those plants which produce oxygen which the fish need. The presence of these underwater plants helps to starve out the undesirable algae which discolour the water. It will generally be necessary to lift the plants, clean the pool, and replant every 3 to 4 years. A mixture of clay loam and cow manure which has been enriched with bonedust will be satisfactory to use for the replanting of water lilies, preferably in tins. The fish can be held in . a large drum or barrel of the original water. When the plants have been settled into place for 2 or 3 days the fish can be reintroduced by hand. When a new pool which has been concreted is to be planted the water should be tested with litmus paper and if necessary a quantity of phosphoric acid added until an acid reaction is given 2 days running. It will then be satisfactory to introduce the plants. Trees, Shrubs, and Climbers All hedge planting should be completed this month. Sub-tropical plants such as citrus, in the colder areas, and evergreens such as rhododendrons and camellias should now be firmly planted. Where summers are dry a mulch of compost should be spread over the ground beneath the plants. Fertiliser containing 4 parts of blood and bone and 1 part of sulphate of potash by weight can be applied round any permanent plantings of trees and shrubs at 2oz. and 3oz. per square yard. Where natural fertility is low the amount may be increased. As growth begins again, evergreen hedges should be trimmed. Climbing plants such as ivy, Virginian creeper, ornamental grape vines, arid Clematis jackmani should be pruned lightly to keep ■ them within ’ bounds. Wistaria side shoots can be pruned back hard to the main steins at this time. ' 7