Grow Your Own Christmas Tree

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 95, Issue 2, 15 August 1957, Page 179

Grow Your Own Christmas Tree

MOST Christmas trees in New Zealand are made from the branches or tops of pine trees, which are not satisfactory because they wilt quickly, are often not straight, and have too long needles that tend to cover the decorations and make the use of lighted candles hazardous. For best results a live tree in a container should be used, and this article by K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, describes how such a tree should be selected and grown. To be ready for use at Christmas these trees need to be tubbed now.

THE trees used in England and on the Continent for Christmas trees are usually spruce (Picea sp.), or fir (Abies sp.), both of which are ideal. They taper to the top, the branches are placed fairly evenly, and the needles are short. In the Northern Hemisphere Christmas falls at midwinter, when the past season’s growth of coniferous trees has matured and the trees are fairly dormant. The trees can therefore be cut several weeks before they are required; in fact cut trees are offered for sale from early December and are still in good condition until after the festival. That is not so in this country. The trees are in active growth and almost immediately a tree, or portion of one, has been cut the young shoots start to droop. Many Christmas trees are simply cut from trees in a pine plantation or a shelter belt without any consideration being given to the fact that

the trees have been planted there for a purpose and that the damage done may spoil the proper development of the trees that are cut. In recent years it has been possible to buy pine trees or branches from various sources, and young Douglas firs have also been offered for sale. This is a progressive move and it is hoped that there will be further development of growing trees specifically for the Christmas trade. However, if a Christmas tree is grown in a container, a suitable tree is assured and the problem of wilting will be overcome. The tree can be brought in for' decoration just when required and will look fresh during the whole time it is in use. It can be kept for a number of years, and if a good type of tree is used, it can provide an attraction elsewhere during the rest of the year.

Suitable Trees Spruce and fir, the trees mainly used in Europe, are available from New Zealand nurserymen. Probably the best is the Spanish fir (Abies pinsapo), which has very compact and sturdy growth with balanced placing of the branches. Being slow growing it lasts for many years in a tub. The cheapest tree to buy and the quickest to develop is the Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), known also as the Oregon pine. For this purpose it may not be quite as good as the Abies, but very satisfactory results can be obtained. Douglas fir is not very long lived in a container, but a life of at least 4 to 5 years can be expected. The cedars make excellent tub trees, especially the deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara) , with greyish needles and slightly drooping branches. This tree is very suitable for use as a Christmas tree and lasts well in tubs. Various Lawson's cypresses (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana sp.) can also be used for Christmas trees and are often grown in tubs for decorating terraces, yards, and gardens. The most suitable are those with fairly open habit and green colour. For decorating as Christmas trees radiata pine is not as good as the other conifers. Containers Any type of container is suitable for growing trees provided it allows free drainage; if necessary, holes should be

made in the bottom. No container

should be too deep in relation to its width, as this will increase the weight without comparable benefit to the tree. Four-gallon tins which have been cut partly down are useful for a few years, after which the trees can be transferred into larger containers. They can be painted or covered when brought into the house. The wooden barrels in which grapes are imported have proved excellent provided they are treated with a wood preservative some weeks before use.

Many other types of containers are available from seedsmen and horticultural stores and may be considered worth purchasing. Soil Mixture and Tubbing up The main consideration in the making of a mixture for tubs is that the soil should not pack too hard and that it should contain sufficient plant food. The best soil available should be used and this should be mixed with well-rotted animal manure or compost. The soil placed round the roots should not be too rich; but because the trees are to remain in the container for some years a richer mixture should be used in the bottom: this will prove beneficial in later years and keep the plants healthy. Coarse, sharp sand should also be used in the mixture to assist in keeping the soil open. A layer of rubble, rough stones, or crocks should be placed at the bottom to prevent the drainage holes being blocked. The soil should be made rather firm; a short piece of broom handle makes a good rammer. The container should not be completely filled; allowance should be made for an occasional topdressing apart from adequate space for watering. Trees which will be used for Christmas trees do not require much attention apart from watering. Details on the care and maintenance of plants in boxes and tubs will shortly be published in the “Journal”.

Y. F. C. Farm Safety Officers’ Activities Merit Full Support

BETWEEN 1949 and 1956 a total of 367 persons died in New Zealand as a result of farm accidents of all kinds. This striking illustration of the urgent need for a great extension of farm safety education throughout New Zealand was given to 28 young men, all members of Young Farmers' Clubs, who attended the first farm safety course organised by the National Safety Association of New Zealand at Canterbury Agricultural College in June. THE men who gave up a week to study farm safety are some of those who have been appointed district farm safety officers in the Y.F.C. federation, whose 360 clubs are organised into 45 districts. Each district has between two and 15 clubs and aims to have one to three trained farm safety officers. The campaign for greater safety on the farm should gain much from the activities of these young men who are in daily touch with those most exposed to farm risks. Diverse Instruction The course lecturers were drawn from the National Safety Association, the Departments of Agriculture, Labour, Health, and Transport, Canterbury University College, Canterbury Agricultural College, Christchurch Fire Board, North Canterbury Power Board, and the Royal Life Saving Society. The students gained a mass of useful information and saw practical demonstrations of safety measures with tractors, farm animals, firearms, fires, poisons, infection on the farm, shafts and belts, driving on the road, implements and vehicles, and electricity and of first aid and child safety. The course emphasised methods of telling the farming community about safety measures and the most effective organisation of public meetings and demonstrations to promote farm safety. In their efforts to encourage safer working methods the district farm safety officers will have the backing of the Y.F.C. federation and officers of the National Safety Association, the Department of Agriculture, and other Government Departments whose work impinges on farm safety, and of local bodies and other organisations. The 28 Young Farmers who attended the first course at Lincoln are a publicspirited group of young men who are giving their time and enthusiasm to counter a grave drainage of the national resources and a cause of great pain and personal loss. Their activities should merit the active support of every farmer and every rural resident.