Use of Perennials in the Flower Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 94, Issue 1, 15 January 1957, Page 99

Use of Perennials in the Flower Garden

PERENNIALS provide a lot of colour in the garden. Some are mainly showy when they flower in summer, but others have attractive foliage for a long period. They are useful in the herbaceous border and in the mixed border; some are suitable for planting in larger rock gardens. Many perennials also provide excellent cut flowers. In this article K. H. Marcussen, Horticulturist, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch, discusses their requirements and uses in the flower garden. The garden work notes are by Elspeth Gray, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Auckland. r ’

IN the past perennials have mainly been considered as subjects for the herbaceous border. Today true herbaceous borders are seldom found, but ?heharden are b “ USed throughout gdiue . Perhaps the reason for this change is that a herbaceous border is mainly a summer border and herbaceous perennials have a long off season, When they are used in combination with other types of plants advantage can be taken of their showy period to bring added colour into a section of the garden at a time when it otherwise might be dull. Perennials are sometimes used in shrub borders, either for filling in until the shrubs are sufficiently large to make a display on their own or to cover up the front of subjects which have lost the lower branches and have become “leggy” ' In the rock garden perennials have a definite use. Some are available in

dwarf forms and many can be used in bold clumps in any large rock garden which is not furnished with true alpines. Perhaps their greatest use is in what is termed the mixed border. Such borders are found in most gardens and in them are often placed many of the plants collected as slips from friends’ gardens. Such borders resemble old English cottage gardens, being composed of shrubs, perennials, and bulbs, as well as annuals. y or an y One wishing to establish a true herbaceous border the following recommendations will be equally useful, as the requirements of the plants are the same wherever they are planted. Site anc Situation T . , In man y places the mixed border comes into being without proper planning and even if it has been planned in the layout of a garden, the site has

seldom been chosen with thought for e welfare e plants only. It is therefore often a matter of choosing the most suitable subjects certai^pSff^c^^best 11 W 616 3 . . , ’ . The ideal location for a or ,® r ? s one with an easterly or northerly aspect, well sheltered, but away from trees and vigorous growing shrubs whose roots will compete with the perennials for nourishment and moisture. The width of the border will vary, but it should never be too narrow. A herbaceous border should not be less than 6ft. to allow enough space for variation in height. A border with walks on both sides will demand a greater width and calls for much greater care in planning, as generally one side will be in the shade of the taller-growing plants growing in the centre. D a* £ DI *• Preparation tor Planting The preparation of a new border should be undertaken as early in the season as possible to enable the soil to cons °lidate before planting is done n autumn or early spring.

Attention to drainage and soil improvement is important; this was dealt with in detail in an article appearing in the October issue of “The Journal”. Fertilisers should be applied several weeks before planting and worked into the topsoil; basic slag at 6oz. to the square yard or superphosphate at 4oz. to the square yard are suitable dressings, the former being preferable for heavier soils.

Next in importance to the preparation of the soil comes the planning of the layout, a task which demands a lot of consideration.

A plan of the border should be drawn on paper and as decisions are made regarding the various plants to be used their positions should be marked.

Though the height :of plants is generally graduated with the tallest at the back, this should not be done too regularly. A much better effect is achieved if the rise in height is brought about by placing clumps of varying height irregularly, instead of placing them in definite lines along the border. It is better to space a few plants of the same variety together in a clump than to scatter them individually through the border.

Apart from height, colour combination and contrast are of great importance and must be given attention.

The period and length of flowering are other factors which must be considered. Proper placing in relation to these factors will determine the display of colour throughout the season.

Some perennials prefer shade or moist conditions. They can be used in positions which are not suitable for most other plants.

Distance between plants will vary according to their height and spread.

As a general recommendation plants growing up to Ift. high should be planted 9in. apart, and those more than 3ft. high should be 18in. apart. The chart on this and the opposite pages lists a number of useful perennials and gives details that should assist in planning a display; but apart from those mentioned, dahlias, chrysanthemums, and carnations can also be used. Planting If the ground has been well prepared and a good plan has been made, planting is a relatively small job. It can be done from autumn to early spring, but spring planting should be completed before the new shoots start to grow. Satisfactory planting cannot be done if the ground is too wet. If soil clogs on the boots, it is better to keep off the border until it has . dried up, and heel in any plants that may airrive.

Working from the plan, the gardener should proceed to mark out where all the plants are to be placed and begin planting from one end, and so avoid tramping over the finished area. The roots of each plant should be checked over and any damaged or exceptionally long pieces cut off cleanly. The hole should be dug sufficiently large t o accommodate the roots when they are spread out. The crown

of each plant should be placed about an inch below the soil level and soil packed firmly round the roots. Any plants that appear very tender can be mulched with straw or other open material. Once the border has been planted a copy of the plan should be kept for reference. It will then be possible to check the identity of any plant, whether it is flowering or not. Maintenance It is sometimes necessary to thin the shoots of established herbaceous perennials to assure the best development; if too many are allowed to grow, they will become spindly; three to six should be the average, according to the habit of the plant. The weakest ones should be removed, the cut being made close to their base to prevent regrowth developing.

Most perennials growing more than a foot high must be supported. Stakes should be chosen to suit the individual plants; their height should be less than the ultimate height of the plant so that when flowering begins the stakes are not conspicuous.

Tying in should be done frequently, as required, to avoid damage and achieve neatness.

When plants are being staked and tied the aim should be to show the plant, not the stake.

If the soil has been deeply cultivated and organic material has been added before planting a good root system will generally develop. Watering will then be minimised, but during dry spells it may have to be done. Light watering should never be practised on established plants, as it tends to encourage shallow rooting; less frequent heavy watering is preferable, and the soil should be moistened to the full depth of the root run.

It is bad practice to water overhead in strong sunlight, and even when it is dull, flowers can be spoilt by this method. The perforated hoses are excellent for use in the border as they can be laid between the plants and have the water turned on at a suitable pressure.

A mulch may be kept on the border during summer to conserve moisture and provide the plants with a cooler soil. Mulching is also a means of improving soil texture, as a great worm activity will usually result; suitable materials include animal manure with plenty of litter, partially rotted compost, spent hops, peat, leafmould, lawn mowings, and coarse sawdust.

The animal manure is the only material that will readily supply plant nutrients; sawdust usually depletes the soil of nitrogen as it rots down. Fertilisers should therefore be applied with sawdust; for a 2in. to 3in. mulch 3oz. of dried blood or 2oz. of sulphate of ammonia per square yard, would be suitable.

Sawdust from timber treated with wood preservative should not be used, as the preservative may damage plants, and of course it will not rot down.

Fresh lawn mowings should be applied in a thin layer only at any one time; they will then wither and not rot into a sticky mat.

Any mulching material which tends to pack firmly or rot easily should be kept away from the stems of perennials, or the softening of the tissue may cause entry of disease organisms.

The soil should always be really moist when mulching material is applied and if necessary it can be supplemented several times during the season.

If a border is not covered with a mulch, the surface soil should be kept loose by hoeing. This is especially important after watering or heavy rain to facilitate aeration and prevent the

soil from cracking. If frequent hoeing is carried out, weeds will not become a problem. Perennials should be kept tidy and spent blooms removed whenever required. Many herbaceous perennials can be cut down when they have flowered and subjects which flower early in the season, such as delphinium, Oriental poppy, and pyrethrum will produce a second growth and flowers if cut back. When that is intended the plants will benefit by an application of quick-acting fertilisers or liquid manure. Annual Renovation The annual renovation of the borders usually takes place in late autumn. Herbaceous perennials can then be cut back, if this has not already been done, and most evergreen subjects can be trimmed up. If the border has been mulched during summer, the remains of the mulch should now be dug in. Borders which have not been mulched should be given a dressing of animal manure or compost before digging to maintain the organic matter content in the soil. In early spring a dressing of fertilisers should be applied; a suitable mixture can be made up of 3 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and 1 part of sulphate of potash. This mixture should be applied at up to 4oz. to the square yard. Some plants multiply very fast and are best divided every year; for example, michaelmas daisies, of which a single shoot is sufficient to make a plant the next season. Others grow more slowly, but in general it can be recommended to lift and divide plants when they appear to be crowded. Division can be carried out any time while the plants are dormant and many perennials can be propagated from cuttings taken from the new growth in spring. Details on propagation were given in last month’s issue of “The Journal”. Dahlias Dahlias are among the most colourful perennials. Their flowering period is long; the individual flowers may be short lived, but new ones appear continuously. They are sun lovers and will grow in most soils provided drainage is satisfactory, but being gross feeders their position should be prepared well in advance with a generous supply of animal manure or compost. Before planting a dressing of fertilisers should be given of IJoz. of sulphate of ammonia or 3oz. of dried blood, 2oz. of superphosphate, and loz. of sulphate of potash per square yard. Distance apart, generally lift. to 2ift., will vary according to the type of plant and vigour of variety. Dahlias are quick growing and it is wise to put in their stakes before they

are planted to avoid damaging the tubers. Small tubers or rooted cuttings will generally make the best plants and in northern districts these will flower longer than large clumps. Dahlias can also be raised from seed, but do not come true from the parent plants. For general maintenance during the growing season they differ little from other perennials and their vegetative propagation was detailed last month. Storage of dahlia tubers during winter can be a problem. They can be left in the soil, provided winter moisture is not excessive, but most gardeners prefer to lift them and prepare the border for next season’s planting. They should then be stored in a dry, frost-free position where they are not exposed to wind. Chrysanthemums The newer types of chrysanthemums have extended the flowering season of these plants so that they can now be had flowering from February until well into winter. The summer-flower-ing varieties are all suitable for growing in the border, as they are of medium size. The requirements of chrysanthemums are similar to those of dahlias and to provide a rotation it is a good practice to alternate these two kinds of plants in the same position in alternate years. Propagation in the home garden is usually by division, in which a rooted shoot is planted out in October; but better and more uniform plants will generally result if proper cuttings are made.

The plants should be stopped when they are 6in. to Bin. high. Stopping is the pinching out of the growing point to induce development of side shoots. Some of these, usually three or four, are left and they can be stopped a second time when they are some Sin. long. Fifteen to 20 branches can be left on the plant. To ensure a supply of worthwhile flowers side buds should be removed as they appear. If the terminal bud, also called the crown bud, has been damaged, the highest good side bud can be left instead; if not enough flower stems have developed, two side buds can be left instead of the crown bud. The illustration on page 104 shows the development of a chrysanthemum plant after the stops. Korean and pompon varieties should be stopped in the manner described, but they should not be disbudded. Carnations There are two distinct types of perennial carnations: — The border carnations, which flower once a year only, in December and January. They are hardy everywhere.

The perpetual flowering carnations, which normally have their main flowering about the same time as the border carnations, but which can be . induced to flower at other times. They are not so hardy, but can be grown outside in most parts of the country. One difference between the two types is that the border carnations grow the foliage in a mat, but the perpetual flowering types grow upright by developing side shoots on the flower stems. This is a hint to their method of propagation, as “borders” are usually layered, and “perpetual” are usually raised from cuttings. Cuttings root most readily in spring and autumn; layers are made in summer, soon after flowering, and can be planted out in autumn. Unlike most other perennials carnations prefer fairly hardy conditions. A light open loam suits them and a

position where they get plenty of sun and fresh air and where drainage is perfect is preferred. They require the same thorough soil preparation as other perennials, but contrary to general opinion they should be given no more lime than most other plants. Nitrogenous manures and fertilisers should be applied with care or soft growth will result, and mulching should seldom be practised, as it will encourage fungous diseases. The soil should be kept open to improve aeration, and water applied only when the soil becomes really dry. Border carnations require . little special attention and will usually support themselves. Perpetual flowering carnations should be “stopped” to encourage bushy growth of the plants and it is through this pinching out of the growing points that flowering can be regu-

lated. It takes about 5 months for a plant to flower after it has been stopped. Perpetual flowering carnations should be supported by stakes, and for garden culture it is wise to trim them up and cut them back to a bushy form after flowering has finished in. autumn. They should be replaced by new plants at least every 3 years. Garden Work in February In February thought should be given to the planting of spring, flowering bulbs in rock gardens, special beds, and in mixed borders. Also in districts where bedding: plants flower throughout the year plans for a bright display during, winter should be made. The budding of roses, mentioned in last month’s: notes, can be carried on into February as long as the bark is lifting, easily. Evergreen hedges should be given their last trim before winter in colder districts so that the resulting new growth will have time to mature sufficiently to withstand the effects of early frosts. Gladiolus Unlike the majority of bulbs and. corms gladiolus should be lifted before the foliage has died down. The early flowering ones will be ready forlifting at the beginning of February* or as soon as the leaves begin to» change colour. There are several reasons for lifting them soon after flowering, one being that the cormlets are not usually grown on in the home garden and if the corms are left in the soil too long, the cormlets become detached, someare missed at lifting, and they come up the following year, perhaps where they are not wanted. There is also the danger of the leaves becoming infected with botrytis,. a disease which ultimately affects the corms, and the possibility of serious; infestation by thrips. After the corms, have been lifted the foliage can be left on until it has dried, except when, the leaves are known to be badly infected with disease. In the latter case the leaves should be cut off at: ground level and burnt. A warm, airy shed is ideal for drying the corms, but, very dry conditions may cause damageto the tissues. Dusting the corms with. 5 per cent. DDT dust before they arestored for winter will control any thrips that may be left on them. Bulbs Where ground has not been prepared for planting bulbs soil that is in a good condition should be selected

and a dressing of bonedust at 4oz. to the square yard worked in before planting. Good drainage is essential for the best results and, provided that this is available, the bulbs may be planted fairly deeply, especially if they are not to be lifted for several years. Small bulbs should always be planted closer to the surface than large ones and in lighter soils the planting depth will be correspondingly deeper. The minimum depth of planting for small bulbs such as freesias is 2in., which can be gradually increased to sin. for hyacinths and similar large varieties.

A much better display usually results from spring flowering bulbs planted early in the season. They will not flower any earlier, but have more time to form a good root system, which improves the quality of the flowers and also enables the bulbs to increase more rapidly. For a long flowering season different varieties should be planted to take advantage of their slightly different flowering times. For early narcissi the paper whites and Soleil d’Or are two of the earliest to bloom. They are followed by lachenalias, jonquils, early daffodils, Dutch iris (Wedgwood), and freesias in that order. Chrysanthemums By now flower, buds will have begun developing on chrysanthemums, whether they ’ have been planted in beds or in pots. If exhibition blooms are wanted, hard disbudding will be necessary, leaving only the central or crown bud to flower. Disbudding ensures that the maximum amount of food will reach the remaining buds, giving good-sized blooms suitable for showing. Another result of severe disbudding is, of course, that the flowering season is shortened, as the later flowers, which normally develop on laterals, are removed. Unless exhibition blooms are wanted, little disbudding is needed for general garden display. Tying of chrysanthemums should be done as often as necessary for, if the plants are left, the weight of the flowers will often break the stems, especially in wind accompanied by rain. Liquid feeding should be continued until the buds are showing colour. Sprays for the control of rust should still be applied, using 3| fl. oz. of lime sulphur to 4 gallons of spray plus colloidal sulphur at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. Hedges In southern districts the less hardy evergreen hedges should be given their final trimming during February. If trimming is left later than this, the resulting new shoots are likely to be killed by frost and there will be very little growth coming away in spring. If frost-tender hedges are trimmed

Everlasting Flowers Everlasting flowers are now coming back into popularity with the increasing interest that is being paid to arrangements of dry material for keeping over winter. Those most usually grown are statice, helichrysum, and honesty. The first two have, scaly petals that keep their colour very well when dried, and honesty is used chiefly for the seed pods which turn silver when fully ripe. Everlastings should be cut when the flowers are half open, tied in bunches, and hung upside down where they will get no sunlight and as little dust as possible. They should be left like this until the stems are stiff and dry and then stored in cardboard boxes until wanted for use. Bedding Plants In districts where they will flower during winter and early spring there is still time to sow seed of cineraria, stock, antirrhinum, nemesia, schizanthus (butterfly flower), calendula, and winter flowering sweet peas. Provided that the plants are large enough before winter starts, they will supply plenty of colour, but later plantings will not flower until late spring. Primula malacoides, violas, pansies, and iceland poppies should be planted out before the end of February; also anemones and ranunculus intended for winter flowering. Trees and Shrubs In a new garden or in one that is being replanted there are usually several varieties of trees and shrubs that are wanted for planting during winter. The order for these should be placed with the nurseryman well in advance of the planting season to avoid disappointment. It often hap-

pens, especially with popular varieties, that the stock is sold out early in winter or that the plants that are left are not very good specimens. By ordering well in advance the gardener is sure of getting what he wants and probably the plants will be better than they would be when the ordering is left to the last minute. Most nurseries have several grades of plants with different prices, so the approximate size of the shrubs that are wanted should be given when the order is placed. Cuttings The cuttings of trees, shrubs, and perennials that were taken in January should be syringed with water every day to reduce wilting until they have formed roots. The callus that forms over the base of the cuttings is capable of taking up a certain amount of water from the soil and once this has formed the leaves become crisp. When the cuttings have formed roots new shoots start to grow and they can be transplanted either into a corner of the garden to grow on or into their permanent positions. It is better to delay the planting out until autumn, when the soil contains more moisture, as if they are transplanted during summer, watering will be necessary to keep the plants alive. Cyclamen Corms that have been dormant during the main part of summer and are wanted for flowering inside during winter can be repotted in February. The corms should be taken out' of the pots, all the old soil removed, and a mixture of loam, compost, and sand used for repotting, with broken crocks or gravel in the bottom for drainage. When cyclamen are being watered it is best to avoid spraying water on to the corms, as if they remain wet over a long time, they will rot. The plants should be kept in a cool position, rooms being avoided that become hot and dry due to fires or heaters during winter. ’

early, the shoots will have time to harden off and the hedges will look more attractive during winter. Even if the tips are killed, the buds further back will break quite readily when the warmer weather begins.

Botanical name Common name Type Height Habit Flowering Colour Situation Soil Hardiness Herbaceous per. 1 Evergreen | Up 1 | and Upright Spreading Sprawling Spring Summer Autumn Winter Average Sun | Shade Seaside | Average Moist 1 Q | Sandy Hardy tender Frost Acanthus Achillea . . .. Aconitum' . . .. . . Althaea rosea . . . . Alyssum saxatile Anchusa italica Anemone japonica Anthemis Aquilegia . . • • . . Arabis . . . . Arctotis . . . . Armeria . . . . Asclepias • Asphodeline lutea Aster . . Aslilbe . . . . Aubrietia Billbergia nutans .. Bocconia cor data Buphthalmum . . . . Campanula . . . ■ Celmisia . . . . Celsia . . • • Centaurea . . .. Centranthus . . ■ • Chrysanthemum maximum . . Chrysanthemum coccineum Cimicifuga . . • • Coreopsis . . . . . • Delphinium Dianthus . . Dicentra . . Dictamnus . . . . Dimorphotheca Doronicum . • Echeveria . . • • Echinacea purpurea Echinops . . .... Echium . . • • • • Erigeron Eryngium Felicia amelloides . . • •. Gaillardia . . . .. .. Galega ■ .. Gazania ■ ■ • • Gentiana . . Geranium ■ • Gerbera . . • • • • Geum . . . ■ Gunner a . . . . . . . Gypsophila . . ... •• Helenium . . . . Helianthus . . ■ ■ • • Heliopsis . . ■ . . • • Helleborus ■ . . - . . Heuchera : . ■ • ... Hibiscus . . . . • Hosta . . • Iberis ... • • ■ Inula . . . . '' • • Kniphofia . ■ _. . • . • Leucophyta browni .. Linaria . . Linum . . . . -. • Lobelia . ■ . . • • ■ • • Lupinus . .' . . . . Lychnis . . . • • • Ly thrum . . . . ■ ■ . . Mesembryanthemum Monarda. didyma Nepeta mussini Oenothera . . . . Paeonia . . . . .. Papaver orientate . . . . Pentstemon.. .. . .. Phlomis ' . . . . . . Phlox .. . . .. Phygelius capensis Physalis alkekengi . . Physostegia virginiana Platy codon '. . . . Polygonum , . . ■ ■ .. Potentilla .. . • . . Primula Rudbeckia . . . . ... 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Various ..ftft ft ft ft ☆ Various ..ftft ft ft Various .. ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Foliage '..ftft ft ft ft Pink-white . . -fr ft ft ft ft ft : Yellow-orange ft ft ft ft ft ft Yellow ..ftft ft ft ☆ ft Orange-yellow ft ft ft ft ft . ft Various -.ftft ftft ft r ft ft Pink-white ..ftft ft ft ft . ft ft Pink • ■ ☆ ☆ ft ft ft ft Foliage ■■ ft ft ftft ft r ft White-pink ..ftft ft ft ft ft ft Yellow ■■ ft ft ft ☆ ft ft Orange-red . . ft ft ft ft ft r Foliage . . ftft ☆ ft ft ft ft Various ft ft ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft ft ft ft ft \ Various • • ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ft . ft Various ..ftft ft ft ■ft' Various . , ☆ ft ft ft ☆ P' n k ■ • ft A ft ft ft ft., Various . . ft ft ft ft ft ft Varied . . ☆ ft ft r.ft. ft ft Lavender ..ftft ftft ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ftft ft ft ft ft ft Various ..ftft ft ft ft Various ..ftft ftft ft ft ft ft ft V arious ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ftft ft ft ft ☆ .Various . . ft ft ftft ft ft ft Orange ..ftft ft ☆ Orange and ft ft Pink-white ft ft ft ft . Blue-white ..ftft ft ft ft ftPink ..ftft ftft ft ft ft 'ftft Various . . ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ftft ft ft Yellow ..ftft ft ft White-pink ..ft ft - ft ft ☆ Various • • ft ft ft ft ft ft ® lu ® • • ☆ A ft ft ft Various ...ftft ft ft S. lu , e ■ . • • ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ft Pink-white . . ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Yeliow . . ftft ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft ft White ..- ft ft ftft ft ft . Various . . ft ftft ft ft ft Rose . . ftft ftft ft * Various . . ft ft ft Yellow . . ft ftft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft Various . . ft • • ft ftft * Various ..ftft ft ft ft Green, blue, and red . . ☆ ☆ ft • • ft ft ftft ft ft ft Yellow . . ft ft Varrnus . . ft ft ft ft * * ft Yellow ... ft ft ft ft Various .... ft ft ftft ft ft . ' ’ • $ $ % ☆ ☆ ☆ ft . White ..ftft ftft ft ft Various ... ft ft ft ft ft White .. ft ft ft ft Yellow ..ftft ft ☆ Various . . ft ft * Vanous Pink-white . . ft ft ftft' ft Various .. ft ft ft ft ft Various ..ftft ftft ft ft ft Yellow . . ☆ ☆ • Y oral i •• ft Purple ftft ft Bhie-white ..ftft ftft ft ft ft Various . . ft ftft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ftft ft ft ft | ue • • ☆ ☆ ftft ft ft ft Blue . . ft ft ft , ft ft ft Yellow-red . . ft ft ft Various ..ft ft ft Various • • ft ftft ftft ft Various ..ftft ftft ft Various ..ftft ftft ft , Various ..ftft ft ft Various .. ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Iohage . . . ft ft ft ■ ft Pink-white . . ft ft ft ft ft Yellow-orange ft ft ft . . ft Yellow ..ftft ft ft Orange-yellow . ft ft ft ft Various ..-ftft ftft ft . Pink-white ... ft ft ft ft ft Pink ft ft ft ft Foliage . . ft ft ft ft ■ ft White-pink .. ft ft ft ft ft ft Yellow ?. ft . ft ft Orange-red . . ft. ft ft ft ft ft Foliage . . ft ft . ftft ftft ft Various -..ftft. ft ft ft Various ..ftft ft ft ft Various •• ftft ft ft ft' Various ..ftft ft ■ ' ft ■ Various . , ft ftft .- ft Pmk .. ft ft ft . - ft Various . . ft ftft ft ft . ft Varied ' . . ft ft ft Lavender ...'ftft .ft.* ft ft ft Various ... ft ' ft ft ft ft ft Various ..ftft ft ft Various ..ftft ftft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft . * Various . . ft ftft ft ft ft . Various . . ft ft ft * * Orange ..ftft ft ft Orange and red . . • ft- ft. ft Pink-white .. ft ft ft Blue-white ..ftft ft ' ft ft Pink . . ft ft, ft ft ft ft ft Various ... ft ft * •Various . . ft ft ft ft ft Yellow ..ftft ft ft

Botanical name Common name Type Height Habit Flowering Colour Situation Soil Hardiness Herbaceous per. Evergreen to to and more 3ft. Upright Spreading Sprawling Spring Summer Autumn Winter Average Sun Shade Seaside Average Moist Q Sandy Hardy tender .Salvia . . . . . . . Saxifrage crassifolium Saxifrage, umbrosa . . Scabiosa caucasica . . Sedum spectabile .. Senecio . . Sidalcea . . . . ■ . . Solidago Stachys lanata . . ■ ‘ . . Statice . . . . . . fThalictrum . . Tradescantia virginiana fTrollius . . yerbascum . . .. . . . 'Verbena . . ■ Veronica . . . . Sage . . ft ft ft ft ft ft ...... . . . . . ft ft ft ft London pride .... . . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ —Pincushion flower . . ft ft ft ft ft ft Stone crop * ft ft ft ft • • ft ft ft ft ft ft • • ' • • • • • • • ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Golden rod ... .. . . ft ft ft ft ft Lamb’s ear . . . . . . . ft ft ft ft Sea lavender . .' ... ••☆☆☆: ft ft . . .. ... ’. . • • ft ft ft ft . ft Moses in the bulrushes . . ft -fa -fr ft Globe —Giant buttercup ft ft ft ft ft ft ft . . . . . . • ••••☆☆☆ ft ft • . • • • • • • ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Speedwell .. . . . . ft ft ☆ ft ft ■Various . . ft ft ☆ ☆ ☆ ft Pink . . ft ft ft ft Pink . . ☆ ☆ ft ft ☆ ☆ Various . . ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Pink .. ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Various . . -fr * ft * ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft . Yellow ’ . . ft ft ft Purple . . ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Pink-blue . . ft ft ft ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft Various .. ft ft ft Yellow . . ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft ft ft Various . . ft ft ft ft ft ft Various .. ft ft ft ft ft ft ft

Useful Perennials, Their Habits, and Requirements