Choosing a Jrousseau

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 90, Issue 3, 15 March 1955, Page 321

Choosing a Jrousseau

CHOOSING a trousseau and planning an everyday wardrobe are essentially much the same thing. The bride may be changing her way of life and perhaps going to live in a different district, but basically the factors which govern the choice of clothes will be the same for her as for her sister who is planning to change or add to her wardrobe. Today's trousseau is small compared with that of past centuries, but it is just as important to the modern bride-to-be as it was to her great-great-grandmother. Living conditions and fashions have been constantly changing, and gradually the big trousseau, carefully sewn by hand, has given way to the smaller, more practical, often machine made wardrobe of today. Choosing a trousseau and perhaps making many of the garments is one of the most pleasant and exciting steps in preparing for a wedding, and here Betty M. Johnston, Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Wellington, suggests some of the factors to be considered when planning a trousseau or an everyday wardrobe.

TN the past every young girl who hoped one day to marry spent many hours stitching beautifully embroidered underclothes and linen, which were carefully put away amid layers of tissue paper or wrappings. These one day would be part of her dowry, for it was unthinkable that any girl should come to her marriage empty handed. Often, if her father was wealthy, land and valuable possessions also formed a part of her dowry. This portion would be controlled by her husband, as married women then had no legal rights in the management of their own private fortunes. Now the picture is different. An Act of Parliament, the Married Women’s Property Act, has given married

women in this country the legal rightto control and use their own property as they think fit. With increasing numbers of women earning their own livings in professions and industry, the old idea of marriage settlements has gradually died out. Now many young women prefer to work or train for some profession or trade for a few years before undertaking married life, and by careful saving have a nest egg put aside for buying their trousseaux. Though the old conventional ideas about marriage preparations have changed with the years, a trousseau still remains a very important item in any bridal plans. Choosing and often making many of the garments herself, the bride of today probably has much

the same thoughts and dreams as her great-great-grandmother had, though she will probably be sewing nylon or rayon on an electric sewing machine instead of painstakingly embroidering and tucking fine lawn or pure silk. Machine made lace has replaced handworked ruffles and flounces, and gossamer fine woollens, both knitted and woven, are a far cry from flannel, winter petticoats and heavy, knitted stockings. Trousseau in its widest sense means both household linen and personal clothing, but an article in the “Journal” for December 1954 discussed the buying of linen, so this article will cover the planning and choice of a wardrobe for a bride who is to live in the country. Budgeting Intelligent planning and the carrying out of that plan make it possible to get better value for money spent than would haphazard buying and ensure that more time and thought are given

to relative values, resulting in selection of clothing better adapted to individual needs. Thus the trousseau or wardrobe will be chosen more carefully and the pitfail of being tempted to buy unnecessary things and to leave out essentials will be avoided. A shopping plan will save time, money, and energy, because the exact amount to be spent on each item is known. Such a plan is called a budget. Personal preference and needs, naturally, will modify any suggested general plan for a bridal wardrobe, but the basic principles of all budgets will be the same. The money available for a trousseau depends on how much assistance the girl’s family can afford to give her, and, often, on how much she has managed to save herself. The way in which the money is spent depends on several factors, a fairly important one being the standard of living. This is usually acquired unconsciously from home surroundings, and it is quite natural to try to maintain this way of life regardless of the ups and downs enforced by changing social and economic conditions. Most people feel happy if they dress in a style more or less the same as that of others in their own social group, and nothing is more uncomfortable than to feel the odd man out because of unsuitable dress. Another factor influencing the expenditure of money is the social position of the bride, because her choice of clothes will depend on the life she is to lead. For some, three or four outfits for formal occasions will be necessary, but others will be able to keep this item to a minimum. The country bride will need a different kind of wardrobe from the one that would be chosen by a bride who is to live in town. Life in the country may in some respects seem quieter than that in town, but country people are most hospitable and dances and parties are not rare events. The bride unused to country ways may be surprised by the amount of entertaining and entertainment in her district. Dances and socials, visits to neighbours for meals and to the local weekly picture show, and occasional games of tennis or golf are all probable. The newly married woman will find that she has a house and perhaps a garden to set in order, but she will find some time for relaxation and exchanging visits with her neighbours. The country bride should bear in mind the kind of life she will be living when she plans her trousseau. A girl who can sew will plan to spend her money differently from one who must have her clothes made or buy them ready made. Also, if she sews well, she will save money. Handmade underclothes in silky rayons, nylons, and pure silks are a seeming luxury which are within the reach of any girl who sews moderately well and who has the time to spare. For the indifferent sewer and for the girl

who is very busy working or helping at home there may be little or no time for dressmaking and clothes will have to be bought or be made by a dressmaker. Wedding Dress The first essential on the list is a wedding dress. This may be the conventional long white dress worn with an accompanying tulle or lace veil, which is very often borrowed from a friend or is used in turn by all the girls of a family. For small weddings the shorter, ballerina length dress has become popular, and has the advantage that it can be used again for small, informal dances and parties, as it need not be white. Pastel colours, silver, and silver-grey brocades are all suitable for a short wedding dress. The veil should be shorter than for a long dress and fairly simple, as an ornate one gives a topheavy appearance. When the wedding is small the bride may feel that the expense of an elaborate and not often worn frock is not justified, and she may prefer to wear an afternoon dress or a suit. These should be well cut and made and should fit perfectly. It is better to

wear simple, well-fitting clothes than to attempt to dress up in flounces and flowers' that suit very few women, romantic fashion papers notwithstanding. Fussy clothes have no place in country life, where the accent is on practicability. A clean, simple, uncluttered line will not date rapidly and it suits most figures. This can be a money saver for the girl who will have large initial expenses in her home and who would begrudge money spent on early wardrobe replacements. Accessories and Overcoat When the problems of wedding and going away dresses have been settled the next important items are accessories and an overcoat. These and a suit are the basis of a wardrobe and all other outfits should be planned around them. For the wedding dress a veil, white or silver shoes, light coloured stockings, and white underclothes are probably listed, and the travelling dress or suit needs shoes and a matching handbag, and gloves, stockings, underclothes, an overcoat, and a hat. . It is a good idea to choose two or three basic colours for shoes, handbags, and gloves; for example, brown for day wear, black for evening, and,

possibly, white for the summer. Coloured shoes and gloves can be added if the budget permits, but it must be remembered that such things as gumboots, a strong raincoat, and low-heeled shoes are absolute necessities for country living, as are two or three cheap, cotton print dresses or an old skirt and jersey for wearing while doing household chores. Aprons should not be forgotten, either. It is better to budget for essentials first, and then buy extras and luxuries. A good overcoat is necessary in the country, where long distances are often travelled in very bad weather. This will not be an inexpensive item, so it should be chosen carefully. A bright, unusual tweed may be most attractive, but it will be difficult to choose a wardrobe to harmonise with it, and also it will become very well known and will date rapidly. It is not necessary to be drab or dull, but instead a happy compromise can be made between startling originality and plain, ordinary dullness. A looseswinging, well-cut coat of mediumweight tweed which can be worn over a suit, dress, or skirt and jersey and which has several muted colours subtly woven into its cloth would be both useful and attractive. For a girl who plans to have a family fairly soon this type of coat is very useful, being both practical and fashionable. For summer a lightweight rayon, shantung, or dupion duster coat is a good choice. If the colour is neutral, for example grey or charcoal, the coat can be worn with any lightweight dress, silk or cotton, and will look right at night, too. Wide Choice of Suits Many good suits are being made by manufacturers, and for those who are lucky enough to be stock size the choice of material, colour, and style is wide. A conservative cut is probably the best style for the girl who will not be able to have more than one coat and skirt at a time. A suit, too, is not a small item in the budget and care is needed in its selection. It should match or harmonise with the overcoat and it should be well made, with a good lining and finishings. Skimped skirts are uncomfortable to wear, so it is important to be certain that there is room to walk and sit without undue strain on the seams. A pleated skirt does not have the same tendency to “seat” as does a straight one, and it is more becoming to the average New Zealand figure. Straight, pencil slim skirts suit very slim, tall women, but not their tubbier sisters.. A made to measure, tailored coat and skirt may seem a luxury, but if the .material is good and the cut and , workmanship are sound, it should last, for years and be a joy to possess. Blouses, jumpers; scarves, and twin sets to wear with a suit and with an odd skirt are needed, but the number and colours will vary according to the

size of the budget and the taste of the wearer. Hats, too, are very much a matter of individual choice. The übiquitous beret, pulled to either side, has proved to be so useful and inexpensive that it has a place in any wardrobe. Various Dresses Dresses for summer or winter are basically much the same in design and type of fabric. For daytime plain and tailored lines are most suitable, with fuller skirted, more elaborately designed dresses for the evening. Day fabrics are plainer than those worn in the evening, as they are usually given harder wear and need more frequent cleaning or laundering. For winter or summer the shirtwaist style is always popular and may be worn for many different occasions. Plain wool cloth or wool jersey is a good choice for winter dresses, and for summer linen

a good-quality cotton or a linen type rayon will wear and wash very well. Crepe fabrics look well, but they do not wash satisfactorily, requiring 'frequent cleaning. A figured silk dress is suitable for more formal occasions and a ballet length dress of faille, taffeta, lace, or a fine, silky cotton is a useful addition to the trousseau wardrobe. It is important to remember to choose styles which are not only suitable for the occasions when the dresses will be worn, but which also suit the wearer. Unflattering fashion lines should be ignored or modified to suit individual taste, for above all it is important to feel happy and “at home” in a dress. It is equally important, of course, not to look odd or eccentric.

Shoes Shoes have been mentioned under accessories, but one or two points are worth noticing. Flat-heeled shoes are more comfortable to walk in than are high-heeled ones, and a day in town or at the A. and P. show can be a day of acute discomfort if feet are sore and tired. A pair of shoes with medium heels is a very good investment, especially if they have been fitted correctly in the shop. It is worth spending extra money to get comfortable as well as good-looking shoes. The largerskirted dresses worn at night need lightweight, dressy shoes, and here high heels are in order, but only if the wearer is comfortable in them: Lacedup brogues are the best shoes for out-

door wear on the farm or for walking or golf. Underclothes Underclothes have been left to the end of the list, as most girls know their own special requirements. For the wedding dress a long petticoat with matching panties of the same material will be an obvious choice, and for the girl who likes sewing two or three sets of handmade undies will be part of her trousseau. Nylon, rayon, pure silk, and fine cotton in many colours and guises are available. Some people prefer to use bought patterns and others find no difficulty in designing and draughting their own. A nightdress is probably the easiest type

of garment to make without a pattern, but petticoats are comparatively simple to design. At least two or three sets of fine underclothes should be included in the trousseau, with two or three sets of warmer ones for wintery weather. Knitted rayon or nylon will be found practical for everyday use and can be chosen from many very pretty styles and pastel colours. The bad old days of tight lacing to produce a fashionable, wasp waist have fortunately 'gone, and comfort and common sense dictate a more normal figure line. There is, however, no need to be resigned to having a bad figure. A sensible diet and a properly made and carefully fitted corset and brassiere can do wonders for a poor figure. It would be foolish to pay a great deal of attention to the design and fit of the outer garments when the underneath foundations leave much to be desired. Stockings Stockings should be chosen to harmonise with the colours of the shoes with which they will be worn, and it is a good plan to buy two pairs of each colour. If a stocking in each pair is eventually discarded because of ladders or holes, there will still be one remaining pair. Dressing-gowns and Bed-jackets A warm winter dressing-gown can be made . (or bought) in a woollen cloth or corduroy velvet. Padded, quilted satin or glazed chintz is available by the yard and may be bought made into very pretty dressing-gowns and bed-jackets. Napped wool is warm and long lasting and is probably the best choice. A dressing-gown of lighter weight is useful for the hot, summer months and it is easier to pack, taking up less room in a suitcase than a thick bulky one a good point to remember when packing to go away for a honeymoon. Bed-jackets are useful in hotels, and they may be made of quilted satin or glazed chintz or be knitted in fine, pastel coloured wool. Two of these should be sufficient. Clothes for sports such as tennis, swimming, riding, and golf may be included on the trousseau list, and a pair of warm slacks for winter and stout cotton overalls for summer would prove useful for the girl who likes outdoor life or who is in charge of a garden and fowls. 1 . Many other items may be added to the trousseau list such as padded and covered coat-hangers, handkerchiefs, extra underclothing and more dresses, and suits, but it is always wise to budget spending so that the essential things are bought first, extras and luxuries being added later if money permits.