Outdoor Tomatoes in the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 87, Issue 2, 15 August 1953, Page 137

Outdoor Tomatoes in the Home Garden

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Horticultural Instructor,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland THE cultivated edible tomato (Lycopersicum ■ esculentum) is a native of South America, where it was grown as an ornamental as long as 400 years ago. It is a member of. the family solanaceae, which includes a number of poisonous species. Tomatoes have been used commonly only since the end of the 19th century, and for many years were the subject of controversy. Their close relationship to inedible species, together with their distinctive and somewhat acid flavour, led many people to believe that tomatoes . were poisonous. Since this prejudice has been overcome the popularity of the vegetable has increased steadily until it has become universally popular. Tomatoes are now one of the most widely used vegetables or fruits for canning, juice, sauces, soups, chutney, and even jam. Their properties are now considered beneficial to health, not injurious. TOMATOES flourish, in a warm climate with plenty of sunshine. Cold, cloudy weather or prolonged periods of relatively low temperatures retard normal development and reduce fruiting. Adequate moisture throughout a frost-free growing period of 6 to 7 months is necessary for the production of high yields of good-quality fruit. Tomatoes can be grown on a wide variety of soils, but the ideal soil is a deep loam overlying a well-drained subsoil. Light, sandy soils produce fruit a little earlier than heavier types, but tend to dry out quickly during dry spells. . The risk of building up soil diseases peculiar to any one type of crop is greatly reduced by crop rotation, which also permits the best use to be made of available soil fertility, as different crops use different proportions -of the various plant foods. In the home garden cropping is usually intensive, crops following one another closely. Related crops such as tomatoes and potatoes should not be planted in the same area too frequently, nor should they follow one another. Tomatoes should follow a crop of cabbages, cauliflowers, or a root crop such as carrots, parsnips, etc., for best results. Varieties There are many varieties of tomatoes of both tall and dwarf kinds. Tall varieties that produce smooth, round fruit are generally favoured for table use, but the main dwarf varieties, which can be produced more cheaply and come into production earlier than the tall varieties, are also popular. Among the most popular tall varieties are Potentate, Carter’s Sunrise, Moneymaker, Supreme, Stoners Prolific, and Abundance. Beefsteak can be recommended if very large fruit is desired. A good yellow-skinned variety is Golden Nugget. Of the dwarf varieties Adelaide Dwarf, Early Chatham, and Stoners

Dwarf Gem are the most ' popular. Adelaide Dwarf produces large, flatfish, crinkled fruit and the other two have smaller, round, smooth fruit. Novelties The fruits of many uncommon varieties are edible and have a flavour similar to that of better known varieties. Plum shaped (red or yellow skin), pear shaped (red or yellow skin), cherry (red or yellow skin), San Marzano (red skin and square-sided fruit), and peach, which resembles a peach in shape and . skin colour, are examples of less commonly grown but interesting types. They vary in flavour and degree of acidity and are not considered equal to standard varieties for commercial purposes. Seed Good seed is essential if good plants are to be produced. Growers may save their own seed by selecting the best fruits from carefully chosen, vigorous plants carrying heavy, dis-ease-free crops of typical shape. When the plants from which it is intended to save seed have been selected, fruit from the first two trusses may be harvested and used. . The remaining fruit should be left to ripen fully on the plants for final selection of the choicest specimens. Extraction of Seed As several serious diseases of tomatoes are commonly carried with ' the seed, seed extraction should be done by the following method, which will eliminate infection:— : The fruit is weighed and the pulp ' squeezed into a wooden container. ,j Commercial hydrochloric acid is added 1 and stirred into the pulp with a length i of wood, 1 fl. oz. of acid being allowed <

for each 51b. of fruit. Occasional stirrings are given during the next 3 hours. The seed may then be placed in a fine sieve or muslin bag, washed free of all pulp under running water, and. set out to dry in the sun. Acid extraction is fast, and not only eliminates seed-borne diseases, but gives bright seed with high germination. Seed Sowing If it is desired to raise plantsmost home gardeners prefer to buy them seed should be sown about 7 to 8 weeks before it is intended to set the plants out in the garden. Plants may be raised in a small cool frame (see the illustration on page 139 and the article “Construction and Use of Frames and Lights in the Home Garden”, which appeared in last month’s “Journal”) or the seed can be sown in a shallow wooden box with several holes in the bottom for drainage and filled with a mixture of good soil. Too rich a soil is not advisable, but the soil should be sufficiently open in texture to induce rapid root growth and yet be sufficiently retentive of moisture to avoid rapid drying out. In general, any average topsoil, preferably from a pasture field or from one that has not grown tomatoes, is satisfactory. To every 5 parts of soil should be added 1 part of rotted stable manure or compost and a sprinkling of carbonate of lime and the whole mixed thoroughly. To kill any harmful fungi which may be carried in the soil it is desirable to treat the box of soil with a 1 :50 formalin solution applied at 5 pints per cubic foot of soil. After treatment soil should be covered with a sack saturated in the solution Fortyeight hours later the box can be

uncovered and the soil stirred. It will be unsafe to sow or plant treated soil until the smell of formalin has disappeared, from the soil, which usually takes from 5 to 7 days. Soil when put into seed boxes should be firmed evenly, particular attention being paid to the corners, so that finally the soil is about Jin. below the tops of boxes. Seed should be scattered over the soil not too thickly and covered with a thin layer of finely sifted sandy soil. This should be watered with a fine rose. The box should then be covered with glass with a sheet of paper on top and placed in a sunny, sheltered situation. Seedlings will appear in from' 7 to 10 days, when- the covering should be removed. Pricking out As soon as’ the true leaves appear the seedlings should be pricked out into seed boxes similar to the box used for the sowing of seed. A suitable soil for pricking the plants into is one similar to that described for seed boxes, except that a sprinkling of superphosphate should be added. This soil should also be treated with formalin and the plants should not be set until all trace of the formalin has gone.

Seedlings should be planted in the soil up to the seed leaves and the soil firmed about their roots, but not tightly against . the stems. Plants, which should be about 2in. apart, must be handled carefully by the leaves, as the stems are very easily injured and should not be handled between finger and thumb. If the weather is bright, the plants should be shaded until the following day. When they have straightened up they should be watered through a fine rose. After the first watering plants should be given no more than is sufficient to keep them growing. They should be placed in a well-sheltered,

sunny position. In about 5 or 6 weeks the plants should be 6 to Bin. high and ready for transplanting to their permanent positions outside. Plants when removed from boxes will carry soil with them. Even at this stage they must be handled with great care to avoid injury. Bought Plants Bought plants should be stocky and well grown and about 6in. high; spindly, long-stemmed plants which have not been properly hardened off should not be accepted. Hardening off is the process of subjecting the plants gradually to conditions similar to those

they will have when planted out. If bought plants appear to be very tender, it is advisable to harden them off at home before planting them out in the open. ,f Soil Preparation A well-drained, warm, sheltered position is desirable and the soil should be dug deeply. A good fertile soil is essential for high production and stable manure, compost, or a green crop can be used to improve the soil. Where a green crop has been grown it should be dug in 4 to 6 weeks before tomatoes are planted to allow time for the green material to decompose.

About a week before planting, the land should be worked down to a good tilth, that is, levelled and any large lumps broken up. ' > Liming Lime plays an important part in the growing of most vegetable crops, and tomatoes especially will not tolerate very acid soils. Most garden soils require annual dressings of carbonate of lime at |lb. a square yard, and, if the garden has not received any for several years, this quantity should be doubled. Fertilisers ' Base dressing: Tomato plants respond well to liberal manuring. The type of soil, kind of crop previously grown in the land, and the climate all determine the composition and quantity of fertilisers to be used. A good general base dressing is Jib. per plant of a mixture containing 101 b. of blood and bone, 101 b. of “super, compound”, and 51b. of sulphate of potash. This mixture is best worked into the plant rows several days before planting to avoid any possible damage through burning of the plant roots by the fertiliser. Plants should never be set with their roots in direct contact with the fertiliser. Side dressing: Additional quantities of fertilisers, especially of those classed as nitrogenous, are required later to swell the growing fruit. If this nitrogen was made available in the base dressing, most of it would be assimilated by tire young plants and

this would lead to lush, soft growth, which predisposes plants to attacks by disease, and little nitrogen would be left for the later needs of the crop. A side dressing should be given at the fruiting stage. It should consist of equal parts of dried blood and “super, compound” or of, a good proprietary mixture containing a high percentage of nitrogen. This dressing should be at the rate of, 2oz. per plant, sown along the plant rows. Care should be taken not to allow the fertiliser to touch the leaves or stems. The fertiliser should be lightly worked into the soil. Planting Tomatoes are frost tender and cannot be safely planted in the open until all danger of frost is past. Although they may be planted out in October in most northern districts, it will not be safe, except in a few favoured areas, to begin, planting outside in southern districts until the middle of November. After the final soil preparation plants should be set out along the manured bands. Dwarf varieties require more space than tall varieties and should be spaced 2ft. 6in. apart in rows 3ft. apart. Tall varieties require spacings of 18in. between plants and 3ft. between rows. The soil should be firmed around the plant roots as they are set out, and if conditions are at all dry, some water should be given. Supports Although it is not usual to support dwarf varieties, they will produce better quality fruits if they are prevented from touching the soil (see diagram above). For tall varieties wooden stakes 6ft. long should be set in position before planting, as supports put in after planting are liable to damage the plant roots. Each plant should be set close to the stake and in the line of the stake row, as a plant in this position can be tied to the support easily later and it is less liable to be damaged during cultivation. Material that will not cut into the stem of the plant, such as binder twine, raffia, or flax, should be used for tying, and the loop of the tie should be sufficiently large to allow the stem to grow. Ties should be made at lOin. to 12in. intervals as the plant develops. General Culture Pruning is not generally necessary for dwarf varieties, but it is essential for the best development of tall

varieties. As the plants grow side shoots developing in the axils of the leaves should be removed by rubbing them out before they grow too large. If left to grow more than about 2in. long, they are more difficult to remove without leaving large scars, and the unnecessary growth wastes the energy of the plant. Some growers always remove the lower leaves from plants when they have attained . a height of several feet. This practice is not advised, except when leaves are dead or touching the soil. The leaves are the food-converting organs and the more healthy leaves a plant carries the greater is the amount of plant food it can assimilate. Foliage also shades the fruit against sunburn. Shallow Cultivation Fairly frequent cultivation is necessary to suppress weeds and to keep the surface of the soil loose to aerate it. As tomatoes are fairly shallow rooting and any damage to the roots, especially at the fruiting stage, reduces their growth and consequently their yield, all cultivation should be shallow. The plants should not be allowed to be checked through lack of moisture during long spells of dry weather. Water should be applied as periodical thorough soakings of the soil as required rather than as more frequent, light waterings. Small amounts of water that wet . only the surface soil may do harm when conditions are very dry, as they encourage the plant roots to grow nearer the surface, where evaporation of moisture is rapid. Harvesting The fruit should be harvested directly it has coloured. Leaving fruit on the plant too long after it is ripe not only exposes it to damage by birds, but tends to retard further plant development. It should be washed or carefully wiped before use to remove spray residues. The harvesting period for dwarf varieties is about 8 to 10 weeks; tall varieties under favourable conditions will give a continuous supply of tomatoes for 16 weeks or more. Diseases and Insect Pests Unfortunately the tomato plant is susceptible to attack by many insect gests and diseases, and in the warmer, igh-rainfall districts the fight against disease infection must be unceasing. So that growers may recognise the

more common diseases and insect pests a brief description of them follows: Fungous Diseases Late blight: Late -blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, is one of the commonest and most destructive diseases of tomatoes and is also common on potatoes. Although widespread throughout the Dominion, it is most difficult to control in Auckland Province, where it often causes heavy losses.. The disease appears first as dark brown to black areas on the leaves and may spread to stems and fruit. Infected fruit develops russet-brown marbled areas and eventually shrivels and becomes brown. ... Septoria leaf spot: Caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, septoria leaf spot is generally more prevalent in autumn. The older leaves . are usually affected first and early infection shows as small spots having a water-soaked appearance. As the spots enlarge they become more circular and the affected tissues become sunken and darker, varying from grey to brown. Control of fungous diseases is discussed in the section on spraying (page 144). Virus Diseases. Spotted wilt: This disease, commonly called bronze top, is caused by a virus and is most serious, as there is no known control and affected plants do not recover. Infection shows first as small, pin-point, dark spots on the terminal shoots and leaves. The top of the plant soon becomes stunted, the young top leaves tend to curl downward, and little or no further growth is made. Irregular brown and bronze markings appear on the leaves as the disease progresses through the system of the plant, and fruits may show irregular mottling of lighter or yellowish colour or distinct concentric markings. Control measures consist of removing and destroying infected plants as soon as the disease is noticed.

Thrips, the main agents in the spread of the spotted wilt virus, should be kept down by spraying the plants every 7 days with D.D.D. 25 per cent, wettable powder (loz. in 4 gallons of water or combined with the copper sprays) . Home gardeners should not confuse D.D.D. with D.D.T., which is not recommended for spraying on tomatoes, as it may cause damage, particularly in hot weather. Tobacco mosaic: This virus causes a mottling of the leaves which is sometimes accompanied by leaf distortion, especially on . dwarf varieties. The mottling shows as light yellow-green irregular areas in the leaf blade tissues. The fruit is sometimes affected and may show slight irregularity or “mistiness” in the red colouring. The disease is not as serious in its effect as spotted wilt. The virus may be spread by the hands from plant to plant when laterals are being removed or during tying-up operations. Mosaic also affects tobacco and is usually present in manufactured tobacco. As it may be . spread to tomato plants by a worker who handles tobacco in rolling cigarettes, such a smoker should wash his hands thoroughly before handling clean plants. Plants badly infected with mosaic should .be removed and burnt. Cucumber mosaic: This virus disease causes a narrowing of the leaves of

tomatoes to the extent that in extreme cases they are pointed, and greatly reduced in size. The disease is commonly carried by aphides from nearby host plants. The virus can also be spread when plants are being pruned. As infected plants seldom produce healthy fruit, it is best to remove and burn them. Blossom-end Rot Blossom-end rot, which is fairly common, affects the fruit only. The causal agent is not disease and the condition has been attributed to sudden fluctuations in moisture, which result in the collapse of the cells at the blossom end of the fruit. Lack of water during the period of maximum fruit expansion followed by an excess of moisture appears to create the most favourable conditions for the development of blossom-end rot. In the early stages the trouble appears as a small spot at or near the blossom end of the tomato and at this stage the affected area has the appearance of a bruise, being water-soaked and dark ' P'T’PPKI. As flip SI 7A nf tPif* nPF/an+orl nron

increases the tissues become firm, leathery, and brown to black. At times the whole of the blossom end of the fruit becomes flattened and black. Losses from blossom-end rot can be minimised by keeping an adequate moisture supply in the soil during dry weather. Tomato Worm The tomato' caterpillar (Heliothis armigera) is one of the most common garden pests. Its habit of boring into tomatoes and eating the contents has endowed it with the name tomato worm. The caterpillars vary " from green to brown and have reddish or yellowish markings. Tomato Stem Borer ♦ Plants are' frequently lost through the ravages of the larvae of the tomato stem borer moth 1 (Gnorimo schema nlaesiosema) . Eggs are laid in the leaves of the tomato plant and the young caterpillars burrow into the main stem, which .is . hollowed out, often causing the death of the plant. Both tomato worm and stem borer can be controlled by spraying with D.D.D. 25 per cent, wettable powder (loz. in 4 gallons ? of water). For the control of stem borer spraying should begin when plants are a few inches high and for tomato worm as soon as the first fruit has set. Aphides Aphides (green fly) are tiny . green insects, usually very numerous, which

suck the sap and cause wilting of the foliage and a stunting of the growth of the plant. Control can be effected by spraying with nicotine sulphate at a strength of 1 : 600 plus soft soap as an activator. To make 4 gallons of spray add 1 fl. oz. of nicotine sulphate to 4 gallons of water to which 2oz. of soft soap has been added. Nicotine sulphate can be combined with Bordeaux mixture, or with the other copper compounds, but soft soap should not then be used. ~ Spraying For the efficient control of fungous diseases and insect pests on tomatoes spray applications should he made every 7 to 10 days, according to the weather and the severity of the trouble locally. Generally, plants should receive applications of Bordeaux mixture (or a Government-certified copper compound) at the recommended strength plus loz. of, 25 per cent. D.D.D. wettable powder from the true-leaf stage until the crop has finished. Four gallons of 3:4 : 50 Bordeaux mixture is made by adding 4oz. of bluestone (copper sulphate) and soz. of hydrated lime to 4 gallons of water. It is prepared as follows: — Dissolve the bluestone in 2 gallons of water. Mix the hydrated lime to a thin paste and add it slowly to the bluestone solution, which should be stirred while this is being done. Add water to make 4 gallons of spray.Bluestone sprays should be mixed in wooden or copper containers - if possible. If mixed in galvanised-iron containers, Bordeaux sprays will cause rapid corrosion.

As an alternative for Bordeaux mixture 3 : 4 : 50 one of the certified preparations of copper oxychloride may be used. These are marketed under several proprietary names and should be used at the strength recommended by the manufacturers. Spraying can be successful only if complete coverage is maintained. This means frequent applications of recommended sprays thoroughly and carefully applied so that all portions of the plant are wet. Failure to secure adequate control of pests and diseases is frequently the result of faulty or insufficiently frequent applications, x Precautions The following precautions should be observed when nicotine sulphate is used: — 1. Avoid contact of concentrate with skin or mouth. Use rubber gloves if hands have open cuts. 2. If concentrate is spilt on the skin, wash it oft immediately with soap and running water. After spraying cleanse all exposed skin in a similar manner. 3. Keep the insecticide out of reach of children. 4. Do not eat, drink, or smoke while spraying. 5. If inhalation of spray vapour causes headaches and tightness of the chest, leave the spraying area.

Work for September

During September gardening in most districts can begin in earnest. Now that the days are longer and there is more sunshine the soil should . be warm enough to promote satisfactory germination of all the hardier kinds of vegetable seeds. In northern districts where late frosts are unlikely seed of the more tender kinds may be sown toward the end of the month. Plant protection, by cloches or hot-caps, will still be necessary for frost-tender subjects if they are grown in cold localities. To have the area in readiness for later cropping green crops should be turned in and ground left fallow during winter broken down. The soil should be loosened up around planted crops, because at this time of year frequent rains consolidate the surface and unless air can penetrate freely into, the soil, plant growth is retarded. The soil should be drawn up to established crops of cabbages, cauliflowers, peas, and broad beans as they grow to provide support for the plants. When the soil is being drawn up to plants a wide rather than a narrow ridge should be formed, as this provides better support and rooting area. . ,

Parsnips, carrots, and any other root crops which have been left in the ground over winter should now be removed before they develop seed growth. They should be used as soon as possible after digging, as crops dug at this period of the year seldom keep long if stored. Frequent attention should be given to young seedlings growing in cool frames, cloches, or boxes with a glass covering. They should be freely ventilated on fine sunny days to keep the plants from becoming drawn, and the soil should not be allowed to become too dry. In districts where blight is troublesome tomato seedlings should be sprayed every 10 days with Bordeaux mixture (4oz. of bluestone plus soz. of hydrated lime to 4 gallons of water) or a certified copper compound to protect them against attack by the fungus. As a protection against insect attack loz. of D.D.D. 25 per cent, wettable powder should be added to each 4 gallons of spray mixture. In most districts peas will need protection from birds. Wire netting or cotton stretched over the rows is effective, though lime dusted along the rows ■ is sometimes satisfactory. Supports should now be constructed to

accommodate runner beans and tomatoes. These are best placed in position before planting. Applying Artificial Fertilisers For the home garden where cropping is fairly extensive broadcasting of a general base mixture is a fairly good method. Extra nitrogen needed for

leaf crops such as lettuce, and cabbage can be added later as a side dressing. Fertiliser that is broadcast should be well worked into the soil before sowing or planting begins. Although broadcasting is usually fairly satisfactory, band application is best for such crops as potatoes, cabbages, . and cauliflowers. For potatoes a trench should be drawn out about 4in. deep and 6in. wide and the manure sown along this trench and mixed into the soil. The tubers should be placed in position and the trench filled by drawing the soil from each side and forming a low. mound. With cabbages and cauliflowers a garden line should be placed in position and the fertiliser applied in a 12in. band along the line. The fertiliser can be forked into the soil before plants are set out, or the soil can be drawn over the fertiliser to form a mound about 6in. high along which plants are set. The latter method is better for wet soils or for autumn and • winter plantings.

Plantings Potatoes: In northern "or -other favourable districts main-crop varieties such as Arran Chief or Aucklander Short Top (Sutton’s Supreme) may be planted. Unless the seed is large, it is inadvisable, to cut the tubers, as this sometimes tends' to reduce the yield.

Certified seed should be used if obtainable. , Tomatoes: A few plants can be set out in very favourable localities where there is no likelihood of a late frost and where there is protection from cool winds. Allow about 18in. between plants for tall varieties and 24in. for dwarfs, with 30in. between rows. Lettuce: Plants raised under glass can be set out in well-prepared and manured beds or rows. Black cotton stretched over the bed will keep birds from eating the plants. If slugs are troublesome, the bed should be dusted on a fine evening with burnt lime, or baits containing metaldehyde (loz. of metaldehyde to 31b. of bran)> should be spread. Artichokes (Jerusalem) are easily grown and are well worth a place in gardens having sufficient space. Tubers (either cut or whole) should be planted 3 to Ain. deep and 15 to 18in. apart in rows 3ft. apart. A pound of tubers is sufficient for 25ft. of row: Onions: Plants for the main crop .can still be set out. A good keeping variety is Pukekohe Long Keeper. Cabbage: Plants for harvesting in November and December may still be set out in the North Island. Good varieties are Golden Acre, Enfield Market, and Henderson’s Succession. Herbs: Mint, sage, and thyme and other herbs can still be planted if wellrooted plants are available. Sowings Peas: Sowings can be made in all districts and good results - should be obtained from • the varieties William Massey, Earlicrop, < Greenfeast, or Stratagem. Beetroot and silver beet: These do well if sown now and the thinnings can be transplanted later. Transplants will be later in maturing, thus giving

a succession. Crimson Globe and Detroit Red are good varieties of beetroot, and Lucullus and Fordhook Giant are popular varieties. of silver beet. Leeks: These take a long time to mature and seed sown now will produce plants for setting out in January to harvest. during autumn and winter. A good variety is Musselburgh. Onions: Although transplanting is mainly favoured in the North Island, some of the main-crop varieties may now be sown where they are to mature, provided the soil is friable and not very cold and wet. If the seed is sown thinly, very little thinning should be required. Spinach: This matures quickly, and seed of summer strains sown now will produce plants for use in about 7 weeks. Lettuce: Seed can be sown in the open. Great Lakes or Neapolitan (summer strain) are suitable varieties. Celery: Seed can be sown under glass for a December planting in North Island districts. The seed is very small and should be sown thinly and only lightly covered with soil. Golden Selfblanching is the most popular variety for summer production. Parsnips: Seed can be sown in the North Island and in the more favoured localities of the South Island. As parsnip seed is slow in germinating, the soil should be reasonably free of weed seeds and one that is not consolidated badly -by rains. In heavy soils the seed may be covered with sand instead of soil. ( Hollow Crown is a favoured variety. Beans: A small sowing of an early variety of dwarf beans is well worth while in warmer parts of the North Island. Suitable varieties are The Prince, Pale Dunn, and Canadian Wonder.

Radio Broadcasts during September

RADIO broadcasts to farmers will be given during September as follows: IXH Hamilton, 12.33 p.m. 3 . September“ Seasonal Problems on the Sheep Farm”, by D. W. Caldwell, Veterinarian, Department of Agriculture, Hamilton. . 10 September“ Weed Control”, by J. R. Murray, Instructor in Agriculture, Department of Agriculture, Hamilton. 17 September—-“ Selling Dairy Produce”, by W. T. Peterson, Federated Farmers, Hamilton. 24 September—“ Blight in Potato Crops’’,- by C. E. K. Fuller, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Hamilton. IYZ Rotorua, 7.15 p.m. 3 September—“ Control of Vegetable Pests and Diseases”, by F. L. Bailey, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Tauranga. . 17 September“ Supplementary Crops for the Dairy Farmer”, by S. R. Hewitt, Instructor in Agriculture, Department , of , Agriculture, Whakatane. : 3YA Christchurch ■ 3 September (7.15. —Review of the “New Zealand Journal of Agriculture”, by E.. G. Smith, Fields Instructor, Department of Agriculture,' Rangiora. . . . ' . ; . 10 September (7.15 p.m.!—“The Meat Inspection Service”, by .. N. Skinner, Supervising Meat Inspector, Department of Agriculture, Belfast. . :

21 September (12.20 p.m.)—“Newer Therapeutants and Their Application”, by J. Coombe, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch. . 4YA Dunedin, 9.15 p.m. 9 September“ Overcoming Unthriftiness in Lambs”, by E. A. Pratt, Veterinarian, Department of Agriculture; Oamaru, . . 23 September-“ Overseas Methods in Pasture Investigations”, by J. M. Hercus, Instructor •in Agriculture, Department of . Agriculture, Dunedin. Regular Sessions . r ' IXH Hamilton, Tuesdays at. 8 p.m. (Frankton stock market report), Wednesdays at 12.33 p.m. (report from Ruakura Animal Research Station), Thursdays at 12.33 p.m., Fridays at 8 p.m. (Waikato . stock review). IXN Whangarei, Mondays at 8 p.m., Wednesdays ,at 8 p.m. (Northland stock market report), ’ Fridays . at .8 p.m. IYA Auckland, . Mondays at' 7 p.m. (Auckland stock market report), Tuesdays at 12.35 p.m., Wednesdays at 7 p.m., Thursdays at 12.33 ■ p.m. IYD Auckland, Thursdays at 7.30 p.m. IYZ Rotorua, ■ Mondays- at 12.33 p.m. (Waikato stock review),, fortnightly on Tuesdays at 12.33 p.m. (Federated Farmers’ session), Tuesdays at 6.55 p.m. (Frankton stock market report), Thursdays at 12.33 p.m., Thursdays at 7.15 p.m. (farm talks alternating with

session for. Bay of Plenty farmers), fortnightly on Fridays at 12.33 p.m. (pig council talk). 2XA Wanganui, Wednesdays at 8 p.m. (Wanganui stock sale report), Thursdays at 8 p.m. * 2XG Gisborne, Tuesdays at 8 p.m. 2XN Nelson, Thursdays at 8 p.m. 2XP New Plymouth, Thursdays at 8 p.m. 2YA Wellington, Mondays at 7.15 p.m.. Thursdays at 12.33 p.m., Fridays at 7 p.m. (Feilding stock market report). . 2YZ Napier, Tuesdays at 12.12 p.m. (Hawkes Bay orchardist session), Tuesdays at 7 p.m... Wednesdays at 7.15 p.m. (Hawkes Bay-Poverty Bay livestock market report), Thursdays at 12.33 p.m. i x > 2ZA Palmerston North, Mondays at 12.33 p.m., Fridays at. 8.45 p.m. (Feilding stock market report). 3XC Timaru, Tuesdays at 8 p.m., Thursdays at 8 p.m. 3YA Christchurch, Mondays at 12.20 p.m., Wednesdays at' 7.15 p.m. (Addington stock market report), Thursdays at 12.33 p.m. and 7.15 p.m. . •, 3YZ Greymouth, Thursdays at 12.33 p.m.. 4YA Dunedin, Wednesdays at, 7.20 p.m., Thursdays : at 12.33 p.m. 4YZ Invercargill, Mondays at 12.33 p.m. and 7.15 p.m., Tuesdays at 7.15 p.m. (Lorneville stock market report), Thursdays at 12.33 p.m.