CHRISTMAS SWEETS

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 5, 15 November 1950, Page 491

CHRISTMAS SWEETS

By

EVELYN E. MOORE,

Rural Sociologist,

Department of Agriculture, Palmerston North. FEW of the Christmas preparations do more toward creating the festive spirit than does the making of home-made sweets. The kitchen becomes the centre of activity as the news spreads and the , family flocks in, ostensibly to help, but such is the popularity of the products that unless they are guarded carefully they are likely to disappear long before Christmas Day. HOME-MADE sweets make a delightful and novel gift for a special friend and are more easily packed and carry better than many home-made preserves, cakes, or biscuits which otherwise are acceptable gifts. They also add that final ’ decorative touch without which no child considers a Christmas party complete, and home-made sweets have the advantage of freshness of flavour and appearance which few can resist. . Many cooks, finding that toffees refuse to set, .or that fudges become gluey or hard and crumbly, prefer to avoid this Christmas task rather than risk wasting the expensive ingredients often involved. These people • may find that the use of a sugar thermometer, which enables them to be certain that their, sweets are cooked to the correct -stage; ensures success. However, a knowledge of the intricacies of sugar cookery is not essential to the making of delicious and novel homemade sweets, and people who prefer not to experiment on cooked fondants and creams will find included in this article recipes for uncooked sweets which can be equally attractive. Marzipan sweets are in this category and present endless possibilities for the person who enjoys modelling. Even the less artistically inclined will find marzipan apples, carrots, or oranges easy, to make, and they are always attractive additions to a box of sweets prepared as a Christmas gift.

To make the traditional home-made sweets successfully —chocolate fudges, toffee, or coconut ice for example person who has no experience in sweet making is well advised to use a sugar thermometer, if only the first time, to find out exactly what is meant by such terms as soft ball, hard ball, soft and hard crack, and caramel. The beginner, at least, is also recommended to avoid using recipes which give cooking times rather than cooking temperatures, for the quality of the confection depends primarily on the cooking temperature reached; that is, rapid boiling in a big saucepan may cause the sweets to be overcooked, and cooking over a low heat may have the reverse effect, just as in the making of jams and jellies in which the same principle is involved. With variations .of the type of sugar, amount of liquid, and time of boiling, a sugar mixture can be changed from an apparently simple syrup solution into creamy fondant, chewy caramels, hard, clear, or brown toffee, or intricate spun-sugar creations which delight the eye as well as the palate. Sweets can be classified briefly into crystalline candies (fondants and fudges), non-crystalline ones (caramels and toffee), and modified candies (marshmallow and turkish delight), which depend on added ingredients such as egg white and gelatine for their special textures. Making Cooked Sweets Good equipment, dependable recipes, and accurate measurement are essential for success in making cooked sweets. A good-quality saucepan with clean, smooth . sides and base, sufficiently large. to allow the syrup to boil up slightly; a brush or fork wrapped in a damp cloth for washing down crystals from the sides of the saucepan; and a sugar thermometer or a bowl of cold water and a cup and spoon for the cold-water tests are necessary, The method is in most cases basically the same, the main points being: — ' Heat the mixture gently, stirring until 'it boils. Boil it covered for 2 or 3 minutes to wash down crystals on the sides of the pan, then boil it uncovered, usually without stirring, to the desired stage of hardness. Take thermometer readings or make cold-water tests at frequent intervals. When the syrup is cooked pour it from the saucepan and do not scrape the pan.

Testing Temperatures

There are five important stages of temperature in sugar cookery, at each of which a different type of sweet is produced.

The first or soft-ball stage is reached at 236 to 240 degrees F., which is the temperature to which fondants, fudges, and coconut ice are cooked. If the proportions are 21b. of sugar to | pint of water, about 10 minutes’ boiling is required, but to ensure a satisfactory product the following additional test is really necessary: Take about I teaspoonful out of the boiling syrup and drop it into a cup or bowl of very cold water; when the drop in the water forms a soft ball which can be picked up but which flattens somewhat on being removed from the water the correct temperature has been reached. '

The second or firm-ball stage is reached after about 15 minutes’ cookery, at a temperature of 244 to 248 degrees. Tested by dropping the syrup into a cup of cold water, a firm ball which can be easily picked up and moulded is formed. This is used for caramels and sweets of a similar consistency.

The third important stage in sweet cookery is the hard ball (250 to 265 degrees), at which the drop of syrup solidifies instantly into a hard lump which is plastic and chewy in texture. It is used for a sweet, called nougat, common in America. ,

The fourth stage, used for toffee and butterscotch, is reached after 20 to 30 minutes’ boiling, depending on the amount of butter and liquid present. This soft-crack stage occurs at 270 to 290 degrees, when drops of syrup poured into cold water fqrm hard threads which will bend slightly before breaking. More brittle toffees are produced at a temperature of 300 degrees, when the thread formed in cold water will crack easily and sharply.

The fifth , stage, caramelisation, occurs at a temperature higher than 310 degrees, at which the syrup darkens rapidly and crackles and becomes very hard and brittle when dropped into cold water. When this stage is reached great cafe must be taken not to burn the syrup.

On very damp or humid days the higher temperature at the softball stage produces sweets of the correct consistency.

Fondants, Creams, and. Fudges

Apart from ensuring that the syrup is cooked to the correct temperature, perhaps the most important factor in successful fondant or fudge making is beating,, especially if velvety-smooth sweets which cut easily and cleanly and do not crumble are desired.

The smooth texture can be further developed by pouring the mixture into a bowl and cooling it somewhat (110 degrees F. is recommended) before beating it, but crystallisation must not be allowed to take place of its own accord or a very coarse-textured fudge will result. To help prevent this keep the sides of the saucepan brushed free from crystals of sugar during cookery, stop stirring the syrup once it has started to boil, and when adding coconut, chopped crystallised fruits, or nuts do not cool the mixture further

but beat it at once. If crystallisation does occur, the texture can be improved considerably by immediate beating. . ' : - Also of great importance in the cookery of fondants and fudges is the type of sugar used. Glucose forms very fine' crystals, so its use favours the production of sweets with a fine, smooth texture. Nearly always present in good, recipes for these sweets are glucose or sugars containing glucose, such as honey and corn syrup; acid sugars such as golden syrup; and cream of tartar and other acids which change some of the cane sugar into glucose and another sugar, fructose, which has a similar effect. Butter, condensed milk, or milk also help to produce smooth fudges. However, the amounts of these substances added must be measured accurately, as too much may prevent the fudge -or fondant from setting properly. Also needed are a wooden spoon for beating and stirring, waxed paper for fondant, and a cold surface for kneading fondant, such as a terrazzo, steel, or tile bench top, a large plate, an enamel tray, or a slab of marble. Cooked Sweet Recipes Fondant Dissolve 21b. of sugar and a pinch of cream of tartar (J teaspoon) in lj cups of water (120 z. over low heat. Boil it covered for about 3 minutes to dissolve . crystals that collect on the sides of the pan. Then boil it uncovered and without stirring until a small amount of syrup forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water (238 degrees F.). Wash down the sides of the pan with a brush or damp cloth if necessary. Immediately pour the

syrup into a bowl, cool it to 110 degrees (at this temperature the syrup is still hot but the bowl , can be held comfortably in the hand), and beat it until it becomes opaque and thick. Turn it on to a cold surface and knead it until it is smooth. The fondant is then ready to be used for fillings for date or walnut creams or for peppermint creams and other sweets by adding flavouring, kneading in colouring, nuts, or crystallised fruits, or by dipping it in melted chocolate, as it is too sweet to use alone. The quantities given make about 21b. Chocolate fondant: Knead 2oz. of melted dark chocolate into. 1 cup of fondant. Fondant balls: Shape fondant into balls, and top each with an almond, half a walnut, a hazel nut, or a piece of crystallised fruit, or roll them in desiccated coconut, finely chopped nuts, or grated chocolate. Cherry or nut bon-bons: Mould fondant into tiny balls and press them between halves of nuts or split crystallised cherries. • - . Fondant loaves: Add chopped fruit and nuts, pack the fondant into a loaf tin, let it stand until it is firm, and cut it into slices. Combinations often used are' dates, figs, and nuts; dried apricots, raisins, and nuts; and crystallised cherries, almonds, and dates. Peppermint creams: Knead in oil of peppermint a drop at a time, and palegreen colouring if desired. Roll the fondant out, cut it in rounds, and stand them overnight on waxed paper to harden. -. Chocolate Fudge 2 cups of sugar t cup of milk J to 1 teaspoon of 1 to 2oz. of plain vanilla dark chocolate J to loz. of butter

Place all the ingredients but the vanilla and butter in a saucepan and heat them gently, stirring continuously, until the sugar and chocolate have dissolved and the mixture has boiled. Cook it for a moment or two with the lid on, then cook it uncovered and without stirring until a small amount forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water (238 degrees F.). Remove it from the heat, add the butter and vanilla, cool the mixture to 110 degrees, and beat it until it is creamy and thick. Tip it at once into a greased tin or plate and cut it into squares. v These quantities make 25 to 30 pieces. Cocoa fudge: Substitute 1 to 2oz. of cocoa for the chocolate and increase the butter to Ijoz. : Mix the cocoa with the sugar before adding the milk. Brown-sugar fudge: Substitute 2 cups of brown sugar for the white sugar. Coconut fudge: Add i cup of shredded coconut just before beating. Fruit fudge: Add | cup of raisins, cut figs, dates, or crystallised ginger just before beating. Nut fudge: Add | cup of broken nuts just before beating. Coconut Ice 21b. of sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla 6oz. of desiccated Pinch of cream of coconut tartar I to loz. of butter Dissolve the sugar and cream of tartar in | pint of water over gentle heat, stirring to prevent it burning. Heat the mixture until it boils, stop stirring, cook it with the lid on for a moment or two, uncover it, and boil it until the temperature is 238 to 240 degrees F. Add butter and vanilla, cool the mixture to 110 degrees, add the coconut, and beat it. When the sweet is thick and creamy pour half into a greased dish; tint the other half pale pink and pour it on top. Cut the sweet in squares when it is stiff. . The quantities given make 32 to 36 pieces. Fudge II cups of brown J cup of chopped sugar, firmly packed nuts, dried fruits, Pinch of salt or ginger 1 tablespoon of , 2 cup of top milk ■ butter J teaspoon of vanilla Cook the fudge in the. same way as chocolate fudge. Caramels 2 cups of sugar I cup of maple syrup 1 cup of sweetened or honey condensed mi!’.' i cup of cream 1 cup of milk i cup of butter 2 teaspoons of vanill Combine all the ingredients but the vanilla , and cook them over gentle heat until the firm-ball stage is reached (245 degrees F.). Remove the mixture from the stove, add the vanilla, and pour it into a greased dish. When it is cold remove it from the dish, cut it with a sharp knife, and wrap the pieces in waxed paper. The yield from the quantities given is . about 70 caramels. Nut caramels: Add 1| cups of chopped nuts after removing the mixture from the heat. Coconut caramels: Add | cup of desiccated or shredded coconut after cooking. Fruit caramels: Add f cup of chopped figs, dates, or raisins after cooking.

Peanut Brittle 1 cup of sugar Small pinch of soda i teaspoon of salt 1 cup of blanched g cup of maple peanuts syrup, honey, or 1 to 2 teaspoons of corn syrup butter Combine the sugar and syrup in a cup of water and stir until they are dissolved. : Cook the mixture to about the soft-ball stage, add the blanched peanuts and salt, and cook it to the hard-crack stage (290 degrees F.), stirring continuously. Remove it from the heat, add the butter and soda, and pour the toffee on to wellgreased enamel or tin plates. While it is cooling lift it up around the edges with a spatula or flexible knife to prevent it from sticking. As soon as it is firm enough turn it over and mark it. Break it into pieces when it is cold and wrap them in waxed paper if they are not to be used immediately. Peanuts are blanched by standing them in boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes and then peeling them. To make plain toffee omit the nuts. Golden syrup may replace the honey, making a darker toffee. Marshmallows loz. of gelatine ? 1J cups of water lib. of sugar | teaspoon of salt 1 teaspoon of vanilla Soak the gelatine in half the water. Place the sugar and salt in a saucepan with the rest of the water and heat them to 238 degrees F. Remove the syrup from the heat, pour it over the gelatine, and cool the mixture to 110 degrees (warm). Add flavouring and beat it with an egg whisk until it is thick and creamy. Pour it on to a plate that has had icing sugar sifted over it. Cool the sweet until it is set, turn it on to a board, cut it into pieces, and roll them in icing sugar, finely chopped nuts, or coconut. Add raisins or colour if desired.

Turkish Delight 21b. of sugar 2oz. of gelatine 1 teaspoon of citric Colouring and . acid flavouring Soak the gelatine in 1|- pints of water for 5 minutes, then add the sugar and stir the mixture over gentle heat until the sugar is dissolved. Boil it to the soft-ball stage (236 degrees F.), add the acid, colouring and flavouring essence, and pour it into wet moulds or plates. Let the sweet stand for 24 hours, cut it up, and toss each piece in icing sugar. Recipes for Uncooked Sweets Almond Paste for Marzipan Sib. of ground 1 egg or 2 egg whites almonds lib. of icing sugar Combine and stir the ingredients in a double boiler or basin over hot water until the mixture is very thick. Tip it out of the basin and knead it until it is pliable. Use it at once or roll it in waxed paper for use> later. The use of egg whites instead of an egg makes the marzipan lighter in colour. The paste may be used instead of fondant for date creams, nut creams, or cherry flowers * (moulded round a crystallised cherry and pressed into four petals),; or for moulding into fancy shapes of carrots, apples, and oranges, which’ can be suitably coloured and flavoured. Mock Marzipan 1 tablespoon of 2oz. of semolina golden syrup . Almond essence. Heat the syrup in 5 tablespoons of water. Stir in the semolina and cook the mixture until it is thick (about 5 minutes). Remove it from the heat, flavour it, knead it well, and use it in the same ways as marzipan.

Rocky Mountains Melt 1 or 2 4oz. bars of dark chocolate over hot water. Add a little condensed milk or water if necessary. Stir in J- to i cup of coarsely chopped nuts or dried' fruits. Place the mixture in spoonfuls on. waxed paper on a flat piece of cardboard or a bench to dry and harden. Sprinkle it immediately with coconut or icing sugar. ' Unboiled Fondant lib. of icing sugar 1 egg white 1 teaspoon of lemon . J teaspoon of cream juice of tartar Roll and sift the icing sugar and add the lemon juice, cream of tartar, and egg white beaten with a fork. Mix them to form a paste that will shape in the hands, adding a little more icing sugar if required. Knead the paste well and leave it to stand for an hour before use; during this time it will become firmer. Before moulding the fondant roll it into little balls of even size in , the hands. Use it for fondant almonds and other sweets and for filling date creams instead of using cooked fondant. Fondant almonds: Add a few drops of almond flavouring and colour half the fondant pale green and half pale pink. Shape it into large mock almonds and press a blanched almond on top of each.

Peppermint creams: Add drops of peppermint oil to the fondant as required and colour it pale . green. 1 Roll it into even-sized balls, flatten them to the shape of 'thick pennies, and lay them on greaseproof paper to dry. Fruit Porcupines 1 cup of desiccated 1 cup of pitted dates coconut Jib. of dried figs i cup of finely 1 teaspoon of lemon chopped walnuts juice Mince the figs and dates and add the coconut and lemon juice. Knead the mixture and roll it into small balls. . Roll them in finely chopped nuts until they are well coated. This mixture can be used to fill dates or can be rolled in grated dark chocolate. Norwegian Sugared Nuts lib. of shelled mixed J teaspoon, of nuts' cinnamon J cup of butter 2 egg whites 1 cup of sugar J teaspoon of salt 2 teaspoons of butter Heat the oven to 325 degrees F. Sprinkle the nuts and 2 teaspoons of butter on a shallow baking pan. Bake the nuts, stirring them frequently, for 25 minutes or until they are golden brown, then cool them. Melt the | cup of butter in the pan, and beat the egg whites until they are stiff. Combine the sugar, salt, and cinnamon,

fold them into the egg whites, and stir in the nuts. Spread the mixture over the melted butter in the baking pan and bake it at 325 degrees for 40 minutes. Cool it and' break it into pieces. ' - Packing a Gift Box With very little trouble sweets packed as a gift can be given a professional appearance. A cardboard box can be papered with decorative Christmas paper and lined with a border cut from lace-paper doilies or the tinsel paper used for wrapping Christmas cakes. Paper cups can be used to pack individual sweets, and strips of fine white cardboard to keep the rows separated. Heavy or solid sweets should be used for the bottom layer of a deep box. Toffees and caramels should always be wrapped in waxed paper, and then in cellophane if desired, to prevent them from becoming too sticky. A selection of sweets of different types and shapes or the addition. of marzipan fruits adds to the attractive appearance of a gift box of sweets and makes it worthy of a place on any Christmas tree.

THE TECHNIQUE OF SWEET MAKING