THE HOME GARDEN IN NOVEMBER

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 4, 16 October 1950, Page 361

THE HOME GARDEN IN NOVEMBER

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor, Department of

Agriculture, Auckland. IN November weather conditions are more pleasant and there will be a noticeable improvement in the growth of vegetable plants. In the well-planned garden there is plenty of work to be undertaken. Crops will require cultivating and keeping free of weeds, which are particularly troublesome at this season, and the thinning of root crops should be attended to where necessary. In most districts the seed of swedes, carrots, peas, beetroot, spinach, and such vegetables as broccoli, cauliflower, savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and kale can be sown; the greens will be required for late-autumn and winter use.

TO have a succession of salad crops seed of lettuce, radish, and spring onions should be sown at regular intervals. Plantings of cauliflower and cabbage to mature in late summer and autumn may be made in November. Except in a few areas such as Canterbury and southern districts where frost is still a possibility until after the middle of the month, the sowing or planting of frost-tender vegetables such as french and runner beans, tomatoes, marrow, pumpkin, cucumber, egg plant, capsicum, squash, sweet corn, and kumaras may be continued. Plant protectors such as cloches or frames should not be removed until the latter part of the month. Stakes and fences should be erected to support tree-growing tomatoes and runner beans and should be placed in position without delay. If staking is delayed too long after planting, the roots of the plants may be injured and undue consolidation of the soil may result. through tramping it. Common

methods of supporting these crops were illustrated in last month’s “Journal”. If early celery is to be grown, the beds should be prepared now. Earlierplanted potatoes can be moulded up and the main-crop. planting completed. Asparagus should not be cut over an excessively long period, as this is inclined to weaken the crowns, and for a well-established bed 8 weeks is usually long enough. Attention should be given to the rhubarb bed, as this vegetable is a heavy feeder and will benefit from applications of fertiliser during the growing season. This is best applied immediately after pulling, which should never be too severe. The heart leaves should never be pulled, as stripping all the leaves exhausts the plant by preventing its development and storage of food for further production. Newly established rhubarb plants should not be pulled during the first year and only sparingly the second season. Rhubarb requires

plenty of moisture, and during dry weather will benefit from frequent applications of liquid manure. The early onion crop will now be developing bulbs and should be kept lightly cultivated and free of weeds. When cultivating, care should be taken not to injure the bulbs, as this will seriously impair their keeping quality later. In low-fertility soils it is an advantage to apply a side dressing of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia at the rate of 2oz. a square yard. If conditions are dry, this may be watered on. Early pea crops nearing maturity are liable to attack by birds, which destroy the nearly mature pods. Protection can be given by attaching strands of black cotton just above the pea rows, or wire netting can be placed over the row. Crops of cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce which are beginning to show signs of hearting will benefit from an application of animal liquid manure or from a liquid manure made up of loz. of nitrate of soda to 1 gallon of water and applied at the rate of 1 pint to each plant. In localities where potato blight is troublesome the potato crop should be kept protected by frequent spraying. Crops planted in August or early September should have fairly welldeveloped tubers by the end of November. Early potatoes are best used when large enough, as' they do HEADING PHOTOGRAPH: After rain the soil should be hoed lightly to conserve moisture; undue consolidation can be avoided if the soil is not walked on after cultivation. Sparrow Industrial Pictures Ltd. photo.

not keep as well as main-crop potatoes and are not suitable for long storage. Choko The choko (Sechium edule) is grown by many home gardeners in the North Island, especially by those who are fond "of marrows and ■squashes When cooked the choko is very much like these in flavour. In habit of growth the choko resembles a climbing cucumber, but it has the .advantage that once planted it comes into growth every season from the ■original root. The fruit varies in size from 2 or 3oz. to lib. or more and is shaped somewhat like a pear. .’ As the plant is frost tender and does not mature its fruit until about May, it is very doubtful whether it could be grown successfully in the South Island. The vine is very vigorous and one established plant will produce sufficient fruit for the average household. It does not generally begin to crop until the second year. To obtain a new vine a whole fruit is planted, usually in September or early October. As the plant takes up too much space if allowed to grow like a pumpkin, it ■should be planted where it can climb ■over a shed, hedge, or similar support. 'There are two varieties, a white or cream fruited and a green fruited. Pumpkin, Squash, and Marrow Most varieties of pumpkins and .squashes require an abundance of room. The home gardener therefore is seldom justified in devoting any portion of a small garden to these crops, because many other vegetables

w ill give greater returns from the same area. However, in large gardens and where they can be planted after some early crop such as peas or potatoes, pumpkins and squashes are often worth growing. It is often advantageous to shelter these vegetables by ShS C °™ " otner tall-growing plants. Pumpkins, squashes, and marrows can be grown successfully only in localities where frosts are not experienced from October to March. The

soil should be fertile and retentive of summer moisture. Soils rich in organic matter are best. The humus content of the soil can be built up by digging in a green crop such as lupin or mustard. A good practice in districts where the growing season is comparatively short is to start the plants on a hotbed in pots or boxes under glass. Pots or paper containers are best, as the plants transplant better with the soil attached to their roots. When they have been grown in boxes they should be watered before planting out and carefully lifted with as much soil as possible. After planting they should be shaded for a day or two. When seedlings are raised under glass they should be ready for planting in 3 or 4 weeks after the seed is sown. They should be planted out promptly, as handling is difficult if the plants get too large and they may become root bound if left longer and receive a severe check when planted out. The most favourable temperature for raising seedlings is between 60 and 65 degrees F., and the plants should be hardened off by gradual exposure to outdoor conditions before they are finally set out in the garden. Preparation of Beds The use of well-rotted manure thoroughly mixed with the soil is recommended for beds for pumpkin, squash, and marrow, but good results are obtained if a mixture of equal parts of blood and bone and superphosphate is mixed into the beds at the rate of 2 to 41b. to each hill. The hills should be in the form of a fairly round mound flattened on top and about 3 to 6in. high and 2ft. across. For the nontrailing types such as bush marrows the hills should be 4ft. apart. For all other varieties 6 to Bft. spacings should be allowed. When sowing seed outside, the seed should be set lin. deep at regular intervals around the edge of the bed by pushing them into the soil point end down. More seed than the number of plants required should

be sown (usually about 8) and the plants thinned later to 4 per hill. ' Apart from pinching back the tips of the main leaders of the trailing varieties to keep them compact and promote the setting of the fruits close to the bases of the plants, no attention is usually necessary other than cultivation to aerate the soil and to suppress weed growth. As all cucurbits are very shallow rooted, cultivation should be shallow. Certain varieties of pumpkin and squash store well. Gourds for storing should be fully mature before harvesting and should be handled carefully to avoid bruising or breaking the stalk. The stalk should be shortened to within lin. of the base of the fruit; a longer stem is more likely to be broken off or to puncture the skins of other fruits. Recommended Varieties Pumpkin: Triamble, Crown, Queensland Blue (Beaudesert), and Red Warren. The last variety is a good early sort, but is not suitable for long storage. Squash: Squash varieties fall into two classes, summer and winter. The former includes Early White Bush, Early Golden Bush, Yellow Crookneck, and Goldmine. The winter class includes the hard-shelled, latermaturing storage varieties such as Banana, the Golden and Green Hubbards, and Table Queen or Acorn. Vegetable marrow: Bush type: White Bush and Green Bush. Trailing type: Long Green and Long Cream. Marrows and summer squashes are best picked before the seeds ripen and the skin hardens. The winter types of squash will not keep unless well matured. Melons Rock or musk melon: Musk melons will not cross with cucumbers, water melons, pumpkins, or squashes and

differ from these in respect to their flowers, which, although self-fertile, seldom self-pollinate because of their sticky pollen. Bees are the main pollinating agents. The female or fruit-bearing flowers are formed in the first and second leaf axils of the fruiting branches. After one or two fruits have set on a stem other flowers usually fail to develop. Pinching out the terminal shoot at this stage will generally increase the production of fruiting branches and a second setting will often result. A comparatively light soil, such as a sandy loam rich in well-rotted organic matter, will produce earlier and better melons than a heavier soil. Musk melons require a warm soil and one in which their growth will be rapid. The plants are frost tender and the seed will not germinate well if soil and weather are cold and wet. Musk melons rarely produce good crops in southern districts unless grown under glass. Cultivation under glass is similar to . that for cucumbers, except that less bottom heat is required. Ground in which musk melons are to be planted should be prepared in the same manner as for pumpkins, but the hills should be spaced 3ft. apart in rows sft. apart. Wider spacings may be an advantage in favoured warm areas, where growth is more vigorous. Plants can be spaced 4 to a hill. When the melons begin to ripen they are often protected from excess moisture by stretching a canvas sheet on a frame over them. If this is not done, the flavour may be impaired and the fruits of some of the more delicate varieties may become watery and insipid. This precaution is necessary only if the weather is very wet. Melons should be picked as soon as they are ripe. There are a great many varieties of musk melons, but those of the netted

type such as Hales Best, Benders Surprise, etc., are best for the home garden.

Watermelons: Like pumpkins, watermelons require an abundance of room,, and only those with large gardens can afford space for them. They are rather sensitive to soil conditions; a. sand or sandy loam is ideal. As watermelons are warm-weather plants, nothing is gained by planting the seeds early or attempting their culture in localities where the season is short and temperatures too low. Where the season is short and it is desired to try a few plants they, may be raised in pots under glass and set out in a warm, sunny, well-drained situation.. Good results can be obtained by digging a round hole Gin. deep and 2ft, across and filling it with manure (preferably partly rotted, fermenting stable manure), replacing the soil, and raking it down to form a round and slightly raised flat bed. When the plants are about 6in. high carefully remove them (with soil attached) from the pots and plant them 4 to a bed and shade them with newspaper for a few days. If more than one bed is required, beds should be spaced 6ft. apart.

The amateur may find some difficulty in determining when the watermelon is ripe. When the melon is immature it gives a metallic and ringing sound when tapped with the finger; when the melon is ripe the sound is muffled and dull.

Good varieties are Coles Early, Ice Cream, Klondyke, and Hawkesbury.

Preserving melons: Preserving melons are used chiefly for jam or for pies. They belong to the same species as the watermelon, but their flesh remains firm and does not change colour at maturity. Their culture is the same as for watermelons, but they are much hardier and easier to grow and produce heavier crops.

There are two varieties, Citron (red seeded) and Pie (green seeded). These are of equal merit and differ only in shape, skin colour, and colour of seeds.

Borecole or Kale

Borecole or kale, commonly grown in the cooler parts of New Zealand for greens, is a member of the cabbage family. It differs from cabbage in that it does not form a heart and has handsome curled foliage. The leaves are of good flavour and make a delicious dish. Culture is similar to that for cabbage, though borecole is much hardier and will succeed in poor soils. Plants can be raised in an outdoor seed-bed from seed sown during November, December, and January and transplanted when about 4 .to Gin. high. They should be spaced 2ft. apart with 2ft. between rows. Borecole adapts itself to cold conditions and can be grown safely in southern districts. When the plants have grown to a fair size the leaves should be gathered a few at a time from each plant, eventually taking the tops or heads. Those plants from which the lower leaves were removed during the early winter will produce a crop of tender sprouts in spring.

The best varieties for the home garden are Green Curled and Dobbies Improved Curled.

Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is gradually becoming more popular in New Zealand and is a very nutritious vegetable. As sweet corn is a heat-loving plant, the hotter the summer temperatures and the more sunshine it receives the greater are the chances of success. Because of this it is doubtful whether it can be grown successfully in parts of the South Island south of mid-Canterbury, but elsewhere in New Zealand it generally grows quite well. Irrespective of district, the time of sowing is governed by the weather, but midOctober to mid-December is generally satisfactory, and if successional sowings are made, they will give a continuous supply in most districts from late January to early May. Sweet corn succeeds on most soils. A recommended fertiliser is a dressing of blood and bone at the rate of about jib. to 12ft. of row, and an equal amount of dry wood ashes will supply sufficient potash. Sweet corn can be grown in hills or in rows 3ft. apart. Seed should be sown to 2in. deep and 6in. apart and when the plants are 4in. high they should be thinned to 12in. apart or 3 to each 3ft. hill. Cultivation should consist of shallow hoeing to remove weeds, and if the soil is drawn up slightly against the base, it will help to keep the plant upright. High-quality sweet corn is obtainable only over a short period and close attention should be given to harvesting. The cobs should be pulled when the corn is in the “milk” stage—while they are juicy yet plump and firm; the tassel is usually fairly dry at this stage. Salsify Salsify, sometimes called vegetable oyster because the flavour of the vegetable when cooked resembles that of oysters, may be grown in almost all parts of New Zealand. The roots of salsify, although much smaller, closely resemble a parsnip, except that they exude a milky juice when broken.

Soil for salsify should be dug at least Ift. deep and it should be well

supplied with plant food. Fresh manure should not be applied at planting time, as this will result in spongy and forked roots. Seed should be sown thinly in October or November in rows 12 to 15in. apart and plants later thinned to 4 to 6in. in the rows. As the seed retains its vitality for only a year, fresh seed should always be used; j-oz. of seed will sow a 50ft. row and this should meet the requirements of the average family. Salsify may be harvested any time after the roots grow large enough to be worth pulling, but it is used chiefly during winter, when the roots may be lifted and stored like parsnips. The best-known variety is Mammoth Sandwich Island. Mustard and Cress Mustard and cress are easy to grow even by those who do not possess a garden, as they may be grown in a

backyard or a shallow box filled with soil. They will do well in any fertile soil. Curled Cress and White Mustard are very hardy and the seed may be broadcast fairly thickly and covered with jin. of fine soil. To ensure a succession of these vegetables seed should be sown every 3 weeks, but so that both mature at the same time cress should be sown about 5 days before mustard. In summer, mustard and cress require a shady position and plenty of water to produce crisp and tender growth. ' The crop should be ready to cut in about 3 weeks and the plants should be cut close to the surface of the ground. Recommended varieties are Triple Curled Cress and White Mustard. Capsicum or Sweet Peppers Capsicum or sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum) are warmth-loving plants and are frost tender. Although not commonly grown, they are well worth, a trial in districts with suitable conditions. About 12 plants will be sufficient to supply the average family. When ripe they are very decorative, with their deep red or green fruits and make excellent garnishing for salads. They are relished by many when baked or boiled. To prepare them for cooking the outer portion is cut around the stem, and the core with stem attached is removed. When baked the fruit is usually filled with mincemeat and chopped up onion. Culture is similar to that for tomatoes and the plants should be raised in pots or seedling boxes under glass for planting out when danger of frost is past, usually in October or November. Before the plants are set out 2ft. apart in rows 3ft. apart the soil should receive Boz. to the square yard of a fertiliser mixture composed of equal parts of blood and bone and superphosphate plus 1/20 part of sulphate of potash, all by weight. The ground should be kept lightly cultivated throughout the growing period. No staking or pruning is required. In most localities fruits begin to mature in March and harvesting continues

until late May or early June. The fruit of the red type is ready to pick when the red colour begins to develop, as it is then considered to be in the best condition for cooking. Suitable varieties are Californian Wonder and Harris Early Giant. Spinach, Silver Beet, Spinach Beet, and New Zealand Spinach Spinach, silver beet, spinach beet, and New Zealand spinach, though different in habit are used similarly. The native New Zealand spinach, which is not a true spinach, has a ■sprawling habit and spreads to 3 to Ift. across. The leaves are small, thick, silvery, and triangular-ovate. The plant is a good substitute for spinach and thrives only during hot weather, when ordinary spinach is difficult to grow. It is harvested by pinching off about 3in. of the growing tips. This causes new auxiliary shoots to develop, so that when well established the plant has large numbers of edible tips suit-

able for gathering? New Zealand spinach should be given plenty of room to develop. The seed is best sown 1 to IJ-in. deep in clusters spaced at least 2ft. each way. The weaker plants should be removed. Of the true spinach there are two varieties, Round Seeded for summer growing and Prickly Seeded for winter. Spinach seed should be sown thinly Jin. deep in rows 12in. apart and the plants later thinned to 3in. apart before they crowd in the rows. For summer growing most home gardeners prefer silver beet (Swiss chard) to spinach, as it is easier to grow and is available over a much longer period. There are about six varieties, but the best are Lucullus, which is a light green variety with slight stalks, and Fordhook Giant, which has larger,

dark green, broader, and more crinkled leaves and broader white stalks. Rhubarb chard, which is red, is very decorative and is of good flavour. Perpetual or spinach beet may be used in place of silver beet, but the former has not the enlarged midrib of the latter. Spinach and silver beet should be grown quickly to produce the crisp, succulent growth so desirable in these vegetables. The soil should be well drained and contain plenty of organic manure. Blood and bone worked in at the rate of 4 to 6oz. a square yard can also be applied, and an application of liquid manure (during dry weather) or nitrate of soda at the rate of loz. per square yard half-way

through the growing period will be advantageous. This fertiliser must not be allowed to come into direct contact with the plant. Seed should be sown thinly at. this time of year J to lin. deep in rows 18 to 20in. apart and the plants thinned later to 9 to 12in. apart in the rows. These crops do not grow well in acid or sour soils, and if excess acidity is suspected, the soil should be limed. A dressing of carbonate of lime at the rate of 3 to 4oz. a square yard before sowing is sufficient for most soils. Celtuce . Celtuce or celery lettuce is easy to grow and combines the uses of celery and lettuce. Though a member of the lettuce family, it is entirely different in its growth. When plants are about 6 weeks old the larger leaves may be used as lettuce and 2 or 3 weeks later the central stems or stalks may be eaten raw or cooked. When the stems are to be used the lower leaves, outer skin, and fibrous layers should be removed down to where the stem becomes light green and tender. Cooked celtuce stalks have a pleasing mild flavour suggestive of celery. Celtuce may be grown almost the whole year round. Seed should be sown thinly -|in. deep in rows 18in. apart and plants thinned to 12in. apart in the rows. Successive sowings at intervals of 3 to 4 weeks will ensure a continuous supply. Winter Greens Savoy cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli (heading and sprouting types), and brussels sprouts seed may be sown for planting out in January and February. Savoy cabbage, which is distinguished by its crinkled leaves, is excellent for winter production in the colder districts where the ordinary cabbage will not heart satisfactorily. Cauliflower and broccoli (heading types): Though cauliflower is similar in appearance to and has much the same qualities as broccoli, it is quite distinct from broccoli. Cauliflowers

are more commonly grown and mature earlier, taking only about half the time of broccoli. The varieties can be divided into several classes according to maturity periods; 3 and 4 months (early), 5 and 6 months (midseason), and 7 to 9 months (late). To secure cauliflower and broccoli for harvesting in succession, one planting can be made of varieties with different maturity times. Phenomenal Early, Phenomenal (5 and 6 months), and Broccoli No. 3 will mature in that order. Recommended varieties: Broccoli (heading types): Late Metropole, Veitch's Self Protecting, and Broccoli Nos. 1,2, and 3. Cauliflower: Early: Phenomenal Early, Early London, and Snowball. Mid-season or main crop: Phenomenal (5 and 6 months), Veitch’s Autumn Giant, and Southern Cross. Broccoli (sprouting or non-heading types): In sprouting broccoli the main head is produced terminally on a fleshy, branching, elongated stalk. In addition to the terminal head, longer, more slender, and smaller heads appear laterally in the axils of the leaves. Sprouting broccoli is much hardier than early strains of cauliflower and can be harvested over a longer period. Sprouting broccoli provides a highquality, distinctive crop and is well worth a trial in the home garden. Sprouting broccoli takes from 4 to 12 months to reach maturity, according to variety. Three types of the non-heading or sprouting broccoli are green sprouting (Calabrese), purple sprouting (both early and late) and

white sprouting; of these the green type is most popular. Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are slightly more difficult to grow successfully than cabbage, but if proper attention is given to spacing and the feeding of the plants, they can be grown by most home gardeners. Soil type is not important provided excess moisture is not present. Recommended varieties are Scrymgers Giant, Fillbasket, and Champion. With winter greens best results are obtained if the soil is rich in humus. Before planting it should be dressed with a fertiliser mixture consisting of 3 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and 1/20 part of sulphate of potash, all by weight, at the rate of Jib. to each square yard. The dressing should be followed by a side dressing of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda at the rate of loz. per plant when the plants are half developed. Sowing Seed Seed of savoy cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels sprouts should be sown very thinly jin. deep in a well-prepared bed of fertile soil. When the young plants are about 6 weeks old they should be transplanted carefully to their permanent positions. It is important not to break the taproot in lifting the plants, and the root should not be doubled up when plants are being set out. If the weather is hot, it is an advantage to trim about a third from the coarse, older leaf

growth at the top of the plant. This facilitates handling and it is generally considered that it enables the plant to establish better. Savoy cabbage and early varieties of cauliflower should be planted 18 to 24in. apart in rows 2ft. to 2ft. 6in. apart. Plants of main-crop cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels sprouts, which cannot develop properly if crowded, should be spaced 24 to 30in apart with 3ft. between the rows. Other Vegetables Advice on the culture of asparagus, beans, beetroot, carrots, cucumbers, kohlrabi, kumaras, lettuces, parsnips, peas, potatoes, and tomatoes was given in the September issue of the “Journal”.